![]() |
|
|
#1 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 1353 Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Brush Prairie, WA, USA
Posts: 117
|
Timing (o'clock) for Williams aluminum receiver
I've got a Williams and it is just short of 11:00, maybe 10:45, is that OK or do I need to take a little metal off?
__________________
Skyclones If you ain't cheatin, you ain't tryin. Old Viking saying: Never be more then two steps from your weapon. Last edited by W.E.G.; September 24, 2002 at 08:09. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 2742 Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dayton, OH, USA
Posts: 274
|
I just got mine back, and would also like to know what it should "Hand Time" to! Maybe Dwight could shed a little light on this for us!
FXE |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 3829 Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sisters
Posts: 136
|
In response to your questions about where the timing should be:
Because of the various barrels that are available for build, the timing we have found varies from about 90 Degrees (9 O'clock) to around 30 Degrees (11 O'clock) BTDC, depending upon a new Imbel barrel to a used R1 barrel. I would not recommend that you attempt torquing a barrel to TDC that hand indexes before 45 degrees (10:30). If the barrel hand indexes 45 degrees or greater BTDC, the barrel shoulder should be turned to bring into correct timing prior to torquing into TDC. Hope this helps Dwight E. Williams |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 1353 Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Brush Prairie, WA, USA
Posts: 117
|
Thanks, I'll start my next build now.
__________________
Skyclones If you ain't cheatin, you ain't tryin. Old Viking saying: Never be more then two steps from your weapon. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 695 Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Raeford NC USA
Posts: 280
|
and what is the corollary to the situation where the barrel times early? What is the minimum number of degrees or torque to install a barrel?
Dan in NC |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 1434 Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 115
|
Mr Williams posting did not tell us anything?
Where should we make it time? 11:00? |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 2542 Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Oklahoma USA
Posts: 1,626
|
Matchman the question was answered.
Quote I would not recommend that you attempt torquing a barrel to TDC that hand indexes before 45 degrees (10:30). |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
Administrator
Silver Contributor FALaholic #: 1211 Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Virginia
Posts: 31,109
|
Quote:
At http://www.l1a1.com/cgi-bin/forums/u...c&f=1&t=011643 Dwight said, "The barrel timing is adjusted between 5 - 8 degrees BTDC. I realize that that is not normal for most of you, however is quite necessary in the aluminum receiver. 7075-T651 aluminum doesn't compress like 4140 does, and with the hard anodizing as well, if you try torquing the barrel with 15 to 20 degrees TDC, you'll destroy the receiver or break your receiver wrench."
__________________
. . . Ask me about the Mason-Dixon FAL Collectors Association. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 1434 Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 115
|
5-8 Degrees ........ 11:30 sound about right?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Curio & Relic
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #: 1085 Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: USA
Posts: 2,860
|
If each clock position is 30 degrees then
5-8 would be around 11:45. I just started barreling my Williams receiver last night. I tried a new DSA U.S. made barrel and a new Steyr barrel. Both are hand timing at about 10:30. With the barrel in the vice, I used a receiver wrench and torqued about 6 degrees further with 40 - 50 ft*lbs until the barrel slipped out of the vice. I put the receiver wrench in the vice and used a 1 1/16 wrench on the barrel flats and without a cheater bar took it 8 degrees further. Ended up at 11:00. So if I sand the shoulder down so the barrel hand tightens to 11:30 it should install without trouble. "I edited this post after rechecking timing with a bubble level to give more accurate results." [ September 27, 2001: Message edited by: msnyder ] |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 | |
|
Registered
Contributor
Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 2988 Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Holiday, FL
Posts: 25
|
Quote:
Result > To do the job right now we have to use a lathe again Or some of you guy's get sanding disk's or Dremel out again, what isn't really the right thing to do in MY opinion. Regard's,Torsten
__________________
The "MAD" German.... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 1434 Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 115
|
Got that right! L1a1's are great for the home
do-it-yourselfer. Love breaching washers. These stupid metrics rareley ever time ideal, and are a pain to get close. |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Registered
FALaholic #: 1434 Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 115
|
The last few Inch rifles I done I timed them
by torqu required TDC at 125FTLBS. What is the torqu spec on these Williams receivers? (same I assume?) |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
Registered
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #: 2908 Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: MS, USA
Posts: 1,006
|
I've always been told about 12-15 degrees from TDC or 1130. Anything more is too much and you will either crush the receiver or never get the barrel off again (with a normal barrel vice).
Take Care. |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Curio & Relic
Bronze Contributor
FALaholic #: 1085 Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: USA
Posts: 2,860
|
Larry Jones (larphred) just spoke with Dwight about this and emailed me. We should relieve the shoulder until barrel hand tightens to about 11:30.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|