The FAL Files  

Go Back   The FAL Files > Image Galleries > FAL Images

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old June 17, 2015, 00:07   #1
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Rhodie Build Documentation One Step at a Time

As my part to assist in resurrecting the Images Section I am going to be posting my Rhodie build step by step. I plan on starting with the raw kit progressing to the final finished build with lots of photos documenting my progression through kit preparation, barreling and timing, head-spacing, assembly, and final painting. I will also document any problems I encounter with solutions I employed. I will also discuss any mishaps and corrections brought on by Murphy's Law.....

I have reserved several posts after this first post and I will fill them in as I go along. I don't have any idea how long this build will take as I can only work on it evenings and weekend as I have time. Therefore please check back and hopefully I will have progressed from the last time you visited.

So here we go....This is a mock-up of the kit. I admittedly know next to nothing about Rhodie Fal kits. My only knowledge is that I know I have a Rhodie para lower on my registered short barrel Fal. So not having built one of these yet, I figured it is time that I did. I bought this kit on Gunbroker in March of this year, paying $411 for the kit. It is complete except for the broken grenade site gas plug which was stuck in the gas block. The kit is matching for the most part, the lower serial (A 0563) and RA numbers (RA 5573) match the bolt and carrier serial and RA numbers. It also came with a pair of matching non-bipod handguards (the inner numbers match one another). Since I already had a set of painted Rhodie non bipod hand guards I gave these away to a member here who was looking for a similar set. The barrel is original, albeit not matching serials to the kit. The bore is nice, shiny, and chrome lined.

The kit came with only traces of original paint left as the previous owner scrubbed all of it off for some reason that God only knows. Fortunately I have some original Rhodie painted furniture and a painted topcover which I purchased from member Hal143. I haven't decided which stock to use as they both have rather unique original characteristics. I plan on painting the lower, upper, and barrel and I will document that here as well...



.



.

So here is the kit.



.
The lower has the roll stamp RA number vs. an electropencil like most of the Rhodie kits that are more commonly seen. I don't know the history of why some were roll stamped marked vs. electropenciled. Perhaps someone does and can add that information to the thread.

.


.
You can see how the paint was removed from the stock and grip. They did the same thing to the handguards. ....

.




.
The barrel serial number doesn't match the rest of the kit but it is a Rhodesian barrel with the P proofs.
.




.
The bolt and the carrier are both marked with the A0563 serial number and the RA5573 Rhodie number
.




.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mock Up 1A.jpg (140.1 KB, 1604 views)
File Type: jpg Mock Up 1c.jpg (189.5 KB, 1436 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_001 - Copy.jpg (115.0 KB, 1413 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_002 - Copy.jpg (99.4 KB, 1405 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_003 - Copy.jpg (83.2 KB, 1407 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_004 - Copy.jpg (129.0 KB, 1407 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_005 - Copy.jpg (108.2 KB, 1408 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_006 - Copy.jpg (93.2 KB, 1413 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_007 - Copy.jpg (101.8 KB, 1404 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie-Kit_008 - Copy.jpg (101.2 KB, 1416 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; June 17, 2015 at 22:40.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:07   #2
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Kit Disassembly and Beginning of Barreling

I started work on disassembling the kit and as luck would have it when I was trying to get the stock off the damn recoil tube came off with it. This is the second time within a week that this has happened to me. Before that, I have never had it happen before....

.


.
So I finally got the nut off of the tube after soaking it in penetrating oil overnight. When i screwed the tube in tight, it over tightened and the cuttout opening turned into the area where the rat tail would be impeded by this during recoil.
.
.



I circled the area that needed to be filed in this photo...




.
So I had to correct this by removing some material from the sides of the cutout in the tube, i.e., I had to make the cutout larger. I did this by simply holding the tube in a vise and filed the sides of the opening with triangle and rat tail files. I would take a little material off and then assemble the tube into the lower and check for clearance. I had to do this several times before I felt I removed an adequate amount of metal off of the tube, which would allow for the plunger to slide smoothly and the rat tail of the carrier to not hang in the tube and receiver mating areas.
.


.

While I show a triangle file in use, I actually used a rat tail file for most of the filing work on this round tube.
.


.
Here is that same area of the back plate. I think it looks pretty good and should not cause any hangups by the rat tail or the plunger. But I guess we will find out when I have it all assembled.
.


.
After I felt that this was successful, I applied some red thread lock to the threads of the tube to help secure it to the lower and keep it from working its way loose again.

.

.

.


After I got Humpty Dumpty put back together again I began the process of barreling the rifle to the receiver. I am using an old D.C.I. Coonan receiver for this rifle...


.


.

This process includes the precise methodology of aligning the barrel to the receiver so the chamber, sights, and receiver are in "alignment." The barrel has to be torqued to the receiver so that when the barrel sights are at top dead center the chamber threaded inside of the receiver have to lined up as well. If these are not aligned correctly you will have feeding problems, and/or sighting in problems. A barrel timed off by "only" a couple degrees at the barrel will equate to a large amount at only 100 yards. Remember that generally speaking one MOA is an inch at 100 yards. I have seen situations where as a result of a builder either over- or under-timing their rifle that in order to even get on target at 100 yards the shooter had to crank their rear site all the way to the left or right of its limit.

I try to be as accurate and precise as I possibly can with the tools that I have at my disposal. I am in the process of having a "bracket" manufactured so I can get a more accurate reading with my angle finder at one point of my measurement methodology.

In this first photo I show how wrap the barrel with a couple of layers of paper under the barrel vise and I also wrap the the receiver with electrical tape, sticky side out, for a couple of laps and then sticky side in.

.


.

At this point I install the receiver wrench just snug, not to tight. When installing the barrel vise, I lay the barrel on the bottom half of the barrel vise, and then pull or slide the barrel on the bottom half of the vise toward the breech until it feels like it is getting tight. If you try it a few times you'll get the feel and understand what I mean. It is at this point in the barrel’s contour that I fasten the top of the barrel vise to the bottom and tighten it down.
I clamp the barrel vise into my bench vise and tighten good and snug and then thread the receiver onto the barrel without the use of any tools. This is my hand tightening. This barrel hand tightened right up to the gunplumber’s golden triangle so therefore I won’t have to remove any material from the barrel face in this build. So now I am ready to torque this barrel to the receiver. But if you look close at my setup her you will hopefully see something that could cause a lot of gnashing of teeth and profanity laden verbiage to become part of your otherwise mild mannered vocabulary. So be warned to look carefully for this mistake as you really should only make this once,… never to be repeated again. But alas I almost made this infraction for the second time in my career had I not noticed it at just the last moment.




.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_001.jpg (148.3 KB, 1413 views)
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_002.jpg (121.5 KB, 1390 views)
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_002b.jpg (123.0 KB, 1393 views)
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_003.jpg (135.4 KB, 1399 views)
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_004.jpg (98.0 KB, 1406 views)
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_005.jpg (128.5 KB, 1394 views)
File Type: jpg Recoil_Tube_006.jpg (206.7 KB, 1391 views)
File Type: jpg 1-Use Barrel Receiver.jpg (131.6 KB, 1532 views)
File Type: jpg 2-Barrel Receiver Setup.jpg (139.3 KB, 1331 views)
File Type: jpg 3-Barrel No Ring.jpg (181.5 KB, 1340 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; June 21, 2015 at 10:07.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:08   #3
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Yes, there it is, the "Where's Waldo" of the FAL builds, the dreaded handguard ring. By rights that ring should be on the left side of the barrel vise. It normally is on my builds as I use a pipe cleaner to secure it to the gas block way before I get to this stage in the build. If you dug out my kits that were in que to be built you would find them all with the ring tied off onto the gas block. Perhaps that is a little bit on the anal side of OCD but I don't want to have that preventable mistake from happening again. Be sure to install this before you screw on the barrel or you will pull off the barrel along with your hair. So once you have that taken care of, add a little anti-seize compound and torque the receiver onto the barrel. I use angle finders to make sure I have perfect alignment with the front sight and the receiver.



.
But before that, here is how you want your barrel to time to the receiver before you start torquing on it. This is a perfect hand time with the scallop siting right at gunplumber's golden triangle. It should not take a lot of torque to get this to top dead center.
.


.

Below is the barrel with a little bit of anti-seize goop slathered on the threads.


.


.

Now it is time to mate the receiver to the barrel. Recently I’ve been using a dial angle finder, about $15 at Lowes, Home Depot, or your local hardware store, for timing measurements. I used to use the two rods method and levels but I really prefer this angle finder method. You measure the angle of the barrel, since this is the part that isn’t being tightened, and torque the receiver until you reach that same measurement.

.
Measurement of the barrel using the dial angle finder.

.

.

Now compare the angle of the barrel, which I set up to be close to 0 when I mount it in the barrel vise, to the angle of the receiver. They are a long way apart, over 20 degrees.

.


.

I have been using the angle finder across the ears of the gas block but I realize that the ears could be different heights so I am in the process of having a jig made that will eliminate this potential source of measurement error. But I digress, so I torque on the receiver with a breaker bar and a big ass section of 2” pipe for added leverage.
.


.


I just go a little at a time taking constant measurements until the dial readings are the same for both the barrel and the receiver.
.

When they are the same - your barrel and receiver are timed.

.



.


.

Viola' perfecto'

.



.

Next up I will be head spacing the rifle.

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4-Barrel and Ring.jpg (190.6 KB, 1344 views)
File Type: jpg 5-Hand time.jpg (98.6 KB, 1334 views)
File Type: jpg 6-Anti Seize.jpg (109.3 KB, 1342 views)
File Type: jpg 7-Timing I.jpg (178.9 KB, 1990 views)
File Type: jpg 8-Timing II.jpg (167.0 KB, 1621 views)
File Type: jpg 9-Timing III.jpg (194.8 KB, 1463 views)
File Type: jpg 10-Timed I.jpg (162.4 KB, 1461 views)
File Type: jpg 11-Timed II.jpg (188.3 KB, 1322 views)
File Type: jpg 12-Timed.jpg (100.5 KB, 1325 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; July 31, 2015 at 22:34.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:08   #4
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Head Spacing

Head spacing the Rhodie Build
So the first order of business is to get the parts and tools that you need to set the headspace. I have an almost complete set of pin gauges and a set of Forster GO-, NO-GO, and FIELD- gauges. My set of pin gauges range in diameter from 0.230” to 0.273”.

.


.

I normally do not remove the extractor from the bolt for setting the head space of my FAL rifles. I realize there are various arguments concerning whether or not to remove the extractor from the bolt when checking/setting the head space of your rifle. Of course it is totally up to you whether you do it or not. Perhaps you will change your mind after you peruse this section. The reasons to leave or not to leave the extractor in place are many.
Others have argued that it is required to remove the extractor because it will interfere with the measurement of actual headspace distance. When I have asked them to explain exactly how it interferes they state something to the affect that it is spring loaded and exerts pressure on the gauge, therefore interfering with the measurement. That does not make sense to me and I completely disagree with this assertion. If anything, the extractor would be pulling the gauge into the face of the bolt thus making the measurement more accurate.


The only reason for removing the extractor with which I would tend to agree is it allows for the GO- or NO-GO gauge to remain in the chamber when you are extracting the bolt for the purpose of replacing gauge pins. This makes it easy to change pin diameters without having the gauge pulled out, having to unclip it from the bolt, reattach it after pin change, and place it back in to the chamber. In my opinion this one positive feature does not outweigh all of the negative repercussions of having it removed.

I don’t remove the extractor from the bolt because I simply do not believe it is necessary. So my thoughts are why would you want to do another step on an already demanding build if it is unnecessary? Since the thread documenting this build is pseudo-educational in purpose, I decided I would measure head space both with and without the extractor in place and share the results.

Head spacing with Extractor Installed Results
I first measured headspace with the extractor in place, recording the pin diameters and whether or not the bolt and carrier closed on a GO- or NO-GO gauge. I use the “two thumbs” pressure method to shove on the bolt carrier, causing the bolt to close. This is simply placing your thumbs on the back of the bolt carrier and pushing with only the strength of your thumbs on the carrier. With the extractor in place the rifle head spaced with a 0.268” locking shoulder.

.
Closes on GO with a 0.266 pin
.



.
Won't close on NO-GO with a 0.268 pin
.



.
After I was certain these measurements were taken correctly, I disassembled the bolt and removed the extractor. (IMAGE 3)

.



.
Preparing to Headspace with Extractor Removed – Removing the Extractor from the Bolt

You must be 100 % vigilant in your assembly and disassembly procedures or you risk the potential loss of parts, springs, and eyeballs if you are not careful at all times. I wear safety goggles religiously when removing extractors and other parts under high spring tension. You only get one set of eyes. I am sure we all know, or know someone who does know, a person who has lost an eye from an accident involving springs or other foreign objects penetrating their eyes. I personally know two people who have lost eyes out of shear carelessness, one as young teenager taking apart a hair drying and a spring shot into his eye. The other was working in the same meat packing plant in which I was and he used his knife as meat hook, the knife slipped and he stabbed himself in the eye. Let’s just say it was fortunate that the victim didn’t see it as it was not a pretty sight. Bloody goo oozing down a guy’s cheek as he is running around in circles screaming is not something you want to see, trust me. Wear your safety glasses!
To remove the extractor you must first remove the firing pin. Apply pressure to the end of the pin, thus removing tension exerted upon hte cross bolt. When this pressure is relieved you can push out the cross pin and the firing pin and spring will pop out. Be careful that it doesn't spring away from you.

.

.

The British surplus extractor tool I own is designed to help you push down on the extractor plunger and remove the extractor claw. It works quite well. Push on down on the plunger, and pull out the extractor.

.


.


.


.

I then re-measured the head space using the same methodology as I used when the extractor had remained installed within the bolt. With the extractor removed, the rifle head spaced with a 0.268” locking shoulder, exactly the same as with the extractor in place.

.

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1_Pin-Guages_001.jpg (168.9 KB, 1273 views)
File Type: jpg 1.1-Head Spacing_002.jpg (121.3 KB, 1272 views)
File Type: jpg 2-Head Spacing_001.jpg (111.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 3-1 _Complete Bolt_001.jpg (161.8 KB, 1273 views)
File Type: jpg 4.1-Extractor Removal Tool.jpg (220.3 KB, 1280 views)
File Type: jpg 4.2-Extractor Removal Tool.jpg (150.4 KB, 1268 views)
File Type: jpg 4_Bolt No Fire Pin_001.jpg (210.1 KB, 1268 views)
File Type: jpg 6-Extractor Removed_001.jpg (212.5 KB, 1365 views)
File Type: jpg EXTRACTOR_002.jpg (162.6 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg No Go With Extractor 268_001.jpg (131.7 KB, 1266 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; August 04, 2015 at 23:12.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:09   #5
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Head Spacing Continued

After measuring head space with the pin gauges I installed a proper sized locking shoulder. Thanks to Adam 7.62 for supplying me with the 0.268 diameter locking shoulder.


.

.



.
After installation of the LS I checked head space both with and without the extractor installed. The 0.268 shoulder allowed the bolt to close on a Go and not close on a NO GO gauge both with and without the extractor.
.



.



.

To further test my theory on the method of leaving the extractor in place while head spacing. I head spaced this rifle with 5 other bolts and bolt carriers. I measured head space with and without the extractor in the bolt. All 5 of the bolts head spaced the same whether or not they had the extractor installed or removed. Therefore this further illustrates to me that you do not need to remove the extractor to accurately head space your FAL rifle.


You employ the technique in reverse to assemble the extractor back onto the bolt. This process is little, well actually a lot, more difficult. I usually cover the tool and parts with a towel so as to not allow the extractor and spring to shoot out into orbit should I slip, with the idea being that the towel will catch the parts. Well I was doing this but bending down to look under the towel to see how much further I had to push when the tool slipped out of the hole and the extractor and spring went off into the hinter land of the Great Garage Wilderness Area.

.

.

I heard the spring ricochet, bounce, and land where I do not know. The search was on. I fortunately did find the spring but not the extractor end. It is in that deep, dark, wilderness somewhere and there it still remains to this day. I was able to affect a rescue for the extractor spring and it is now residing back in its rightful place within the bolt.

.

.

So if you are going to remove the extractor for measuring head space, when I have shown that it does not change the measurements, be extra cautious and practice eye safety.


I am not a person, who shirks responsibilities just because it takes a little more careful work procedures and preparations, i.e., I am not lazy. But I will defer a step in a process if it has been shown to be unnecessary, counter-productive, and a giant pain in the ass to do, i.e., I am efficient. Therefore I don’t remove the extractor when setting or checking head space. I know that some others will disagree and I welcome a good spirited debate on this subject.

I hope this section has helped you in your future builds. Next I will be assembling the completed rifle and begin prepping for painting.

I can add any additional photographs that you feel would be helpful. Just post here or send me a PM and I will do what I can get the pictures taken.

.

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 9.1-LS 268 for Rhodie_001.jpg (81.7 KB, 1261 views)
File Type: jpg 9-No Extractor Headspaced LS-268_001.jpg (114.2 KB, 1261 views)
File Type: jpg 10-No Extractor Headspaced LS-268-Closed_001.jpg (115.2 KB, 1261 views)
File Type: jpg 11-Spring Shoot-Garage_001.jpg (181.7 KB, 1263 views)
File Type: jpg 12-Spring Shoot-Garage_001.jpg (121.6 KB, 1259 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; August 04, 2015 at 23:28.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:10   #6
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Complete Upper and Lower Receiver Assembly

I’ve completed the head spacing of the rifle, so now I will start assembly. The first thing that I do is lay out all of the parts, sorting them into various groups for assembly. I then individually bag each of these sorted groups, placing them in a bin so I don’t lose or misplace a part. I use an old dog bowl on my bench for my bagged parts.
.
PHOTOS of parts, parts bagged, parts in bowl 1, 2, 3



.


.

.
I begin my assembly by installing the bolt hold open and magazine catch. First install the magazine catch and spring. Slide the mag catch into the slot and place the spring into the hole in the catch. I then use a small pin punch to guide the spring into the corresponding hole in the receiver. Be careful so the spring doesn’t twang out of the hole and into the hinterland.
.

PHOTO mag catch 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
.


.


.


.


.

.
When you get the spring installed insert the bolt hold open into its slot. You now need to install the screw which runs through both the mag catch and the bolt hold open. The way that I do this is by inserting a small pin punch into the screw hole from the right side of the receiver. Work the mag catch around to line up the holes in the receiver and the part. Then work the bolt hold open up and down while pushing on the punch to get it through the slot and out of the receiver hole. Once the pin is completely through; start inserting the screw by pushing it against the pin and backing the pin out while pushing the screw into the hole. When the screw is completely into the receiver simply tighten it and you’re done.
.
PHOTO of BHO 9, 10, 11
.


.

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 001_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (188.7 KB, 1140 views)
File Type: jpg 002_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (192.9 KB, 1141 views)
File Type: jpg 003_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (208.5 KB, 1138 views)
File Type: jpg 004_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (191.5 KB, 1146 views)
File Type: jpg 005_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (110.9 KB, 1136 views)
File Type: jpg 006_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (125.2 KB, 1137 views)
File Type: jpg 007_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (91.5 KB, 1126 views)
File Type: jpg 008_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (116.6 KB, 1137 views)
File Type: jpg 009_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (123.9 KB, 1066 views)
File Type: jpg 010_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (130.9 KB, 1134 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; August 18, 2015 at 23:41.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:11   #7
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Complete Frame Lock and HTS Assembly

Photo of from Post Above Illustrating the Completed Bolt Hold Open Assemblage.
.


.
I next install the frame lock. The first step is to insert the frame lock along with its spring and plunger into the lower receiver. Install the locking lever next being sure that it is in the frame lock’s slot. You can move the lever back and forth and the lock should move as well. You now need to install the cross pin which holds the lock, plunger, and spring in place. Use a small diameter pin punch and to create a pseudo slave pin like you did for the mag catch. Insert the punch into the hole while simultaneously using another small punch or screw driver, pushing the frame lock spring and plunger into the receiver. When the plunger is pushed in far enough you can shove the punch almost all of the way across (see photos). I don’t push the punch through to the other side as I use it like a lever to push the plunger in while I insert the cross pin (see photos). If you shove the cross pin in far enough you can back the punch out and with a small ball peen hammer tap the pin through the opposing side of the receiver. When you get the cross pin tapped into place screw in the locking lever set screw.
.
PHOTOS 12, 13, 14, 15, 16



.


.

.



.

.


After installing the frame lock, I then move on to installing the hammer, trigger, and sear. This can be a pain in the A$$ as the sear spring is pretty strong. The Brits got this one right as they use a slave pin installed through the trigger and sear which allows you to install the sear and spring into the trigger while the assembly is outside of the lower receiver. This makes for a much easier installation. But I digress, alas the metric Fal does not have that configuration so we are stuck installing the sear and spring into the trigger while they are in the lower receiver. I again use a small diameter pin punch to assist in this installation. A small diameter punch works much better than a large one as it affords some wiggle room allowing you to “thread” the punch through the trigger and sear. First drop the trigger into the lower. Install the sear spring into the hole in the sear, and place the sear and spring into the trigger. Push down and in on the sear, shoving it so the trigger cross pin holes line up and you can push the punch from the left side of the lower through the trigger, sear, and back out of the opposite side of the lower receiver. Make sure you start the punch on the left side of the lower as the trigger pin only fits if it is installed from the right hand side of the lower.
.
PHOTOS trigger 17 and 18

.

.
After you get the punch all of the way through, install the trigger pin by pushing the pin against the punch. Be careful that you don’t pull out the punch too fast as you will have to start over if the sear pops out of the trigger.
.
PHOTOS Trigger sear #19
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 011_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (135.0 KB, 1178 views)
File Type: jpg 012_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (192.1 KB, 1174 views)
File Type: jpg 013_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (226.2 KB, 1177 views)
File Type: jpg 014_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (172.6 KB, 1179 views)
File Type: jpg 015_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (160.6 KB, 1177 views)
File Type: jpg 016_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (151.4 KB, 1173 views)
File Type: jpg 017_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (135.9 KB, 1173 views)
File Type: jpg 018_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (232.0 KB, 1175 views)
File Type: jpg 019_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (143.9 KB, 1169 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; August 15, 2015 at 02:41.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:11   #8
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
HTS and Rear Site Assembly

.
Next install the hammer and its respective pin, as well as the HTS backing plate (I think that is what it is called) by hooking it into the side of the hammer pin, rotating it into place. You can then install the selector lever through the lower being sure the selector lever is at 12 o’clock. Push the selector in and rotate it into the safe position. Finish the installation by installing the hammer plunger and spring, followed by the trigger plunger and spring.
.
PHOTOS Hammer trigger sear 20-25


.


.



.



.



.
Once you have the lower internals installed you can work on the rear site. Make sure that the little Z spring is installed on the both of the site. This allows the site to be adjusted one click at a time. Check that you have the site installed on correctly and not on bassackwords.
.
PHOTOS Site 26, 27, 28, 29
.


.


.


.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 020_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (103.4 KB, 1124 views)
File Type: jpg 021_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (92.7 KB, 1115 views)
File Type: jpg 022_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (161.1 KB, 1119 views)
File Type: jpg 023_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (129.5 KB, 1113 views)
File Type: jpg 025_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (229.1 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 026_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (217.7 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg 027_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (220.4 KB, 1114 views)
File Type: jpg 028_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (206.3 KB, 1112 views)
File Type: jpg 029_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (97.4 KB, 1117 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; August 15, 2015 at 02:42.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:12   #9
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Gas Tube System Installation

We are ready for the gas system. Place the gas tube nut and the gas regulator on the tube with the gas regulator “wavy” end towards the gas block. Turn the gas nut onto the receiver as far as you can by hand. Sometimes these are incredibly tight and hard to turn. If this happens clean up the gas tube nut threads with a brass brush and do the same to the threads inside of the receiver. If it is a new receiver there may be Parkerizing material in/on the threads.
.
PHOTOS OF GAS TUBE 31, 32, 33
.


.

,


.


.
Thread the tube into the gas block all the way in until the tube bottoms out. When the tube is bottomed out, back it off a couple of turns being sure that the “U” notch on the tube lines up with the pin hole in the gas block (see photos). This has to line up correctly so the pin can be inserted to secure the tube in the gas block. Insert the gas tube pin and gently tap it through the gas block being careful to not smash your threads.
.

PHOTO GAS TUBE ALIGNMENT AND PIN 34, 37

.


.



.

Now we need to install the U shaped gas regulator spring. I learned an installation trick for this here on the Fal Files but I cannot recall who I learned this from or else I would certainly give them credit as this works great. First of all make sure the pointy side at the base of the spring is facing up when you install it on the block.
.
Here is the tip to make installing this spring much easier. Tie a short piece of dental floss on to each side of the U shaped spring. This allows you to spread open the spring, seating it on the gas block without scratching the heck out of your finish. Each end of the spring has to fit into the little holes in the gas block while the sides have to be “tucked” into the gaps along the side. Using the floss to pull on the legs really assists in getting the spring aligned and seated correctly.
.
Once the spring is in place, thread the gas regulator ring onto the block. Sometimes you may need to use a small screw driver to leverage the spring down so you can get the regulator ring started.
.
PHOTO OF SPRING AND FLOSS SEATING THE SPRING 38 - 43

.

.

.


.


.


.



.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 031_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (203.0 KB, 1117 views)
File Type: jpg 032_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (137.7 KB, 1112 views)
File Type: jpg 033_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (127.8 KB, 1114 views)
File Type: jpg 034_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (101.1 KB, 1109 views)
File Type: jpg 037_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (112.0 KB, 1107 views)
File Type: jpg 038_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (170.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 040_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (219.0 KB, 1169 views)
File Type: jpg 041_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (96.6 KB, 1170 views)
File Type: jpg 042_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (154.9 KB, 1171 views)
File Type: jpg 043_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (124.6 KB, 1161 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; August 15, 2015 at 09:16.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:14   #10
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Front Site Assembly

Now all that is left to do is install the front site post. Insert the round spring first, followed by the flat spring. You should notice that this flat spring isn’t actually flat as it has a distinct arch. This should be installed so it arches down into the site base, fitting into the notches in the base. Insert the site post and screw it down using a front site tool. I have a metal site tool which I bought from a member here. I think it is a DSA tool but I am not 100% sure. If you are going purchase one of these tools pay a little extra money and get the metal one like shown in the photos. I have had the el cheapo’ plastic tool with metal ends and they break almost immediately. They are truly a waste of your money.
.

PHOTOS 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49

.


.


.


.


.


.


.

So that is where I am at now with this build. Next I will finish up with installing the gas piston and spring, gas plug, carry handle or carry handle stub (I haven’t decided yet) stock, grip, hand guards, and flash hider. And then I will be ready for painting.


.

I have completed the final assembly stages of the build but I just need to take the time to sit down and write up the text for my posts and pick and format the photos I am going to use. I have a questions for anyone looking at this thread. I have two stock sets, and one painted top cover. For this build I think I am going to go with the stock set pictured below. I bought this set from Hal143. I think it would be safe to say that the stock, grip, and topcover came from the same rifle. As always Hal's Rhodie parts have a lot of character and they just exude history. Thanks Hal!

So what do you folks think, use the yellowish set "#61" or this dark brown set "#17" with matching topcover? That way I can use the lighter colored set for the second Rhodie build which I am going to start on probably this week. The hold up on that one is what type of receiver should I use, a type 1 or a type 2? Suggestions?

.


.


.

I have started painting the rifle. See the next post for additional photos.

.


.


.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 044_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (223.6 KB, 1117 views)
File Type: jpg 045_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (120.0 KB, 1111 views)
File Type: jpg 046_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (109.5 KB, 1107 views)
File Type: jpg 047_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (111.2 KB, 1110 views)
File Type: jpg 048_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (132.2 KB, 1103 views)
File Type: jpg 049_Rhodie Assemble.jpg (204.4 KB, 1108 views)
File Type: jpg 001_Rhodie Stock Select.jpg (191.4 KB, 1063 views)
File Type: jpg 002_Rhodie Stock Select.jpg (184.3 KB, 1067 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Paint_003.jpg (132.5 KB, 945 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Paint_007.jpg (119.7 KB, 946 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; September 10, 2015 at 18:57.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2015, 00:16   #11
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Painting Finished - I Think - What do you Think?

See post above for two additional photos of my painting thus far.


I am only going to paint those parts that do not have any original paint, e.g., upper and lower receivers, barrel, and flash hider. The originally painted parts for this build are very dark with little yellow paint used. I don't know if they were painted over at sometime or just didn't have a lot of yellow to begin with. I tried chipping away some of this thick paint but it wasn't coming off in layers so I'm not going to mess with it. So I am trying to match the brownish look. Now, in my defense, I am classic red-green color blind so what I see is not what most of the rest of the world sees. So please tell me if the match is really far off.

My technique was to just slop it on as if I was a soldier handed a can of paint. I am not going for any pattern or design, just simply globbing some paint on my gun so the shiny parts don't give away my position.

I am using the paint which I bought from saigamantx. Since I am going for a more dark look I mixed the dark and light paints, using about twice as much dark as light in the mix. At the stage shown in the photos I have 5 coats. It is still pretty shiny, with the last coat applied about a week prior to these pictures being taken. My next step will be to try and dull and age the finish. So more to come....

I may want to pursue any suggested new options on dulling the paint sheen as I tried but I didn't have much luck. I first tried some synthetic steel wool but instead of cutting the shine, it seemed as though it smeared the paint. So I then tried regular steel wool but this did pretty much the same. I would not have thought this would have occurred as the paint had been drying for at least a week. I was wondering if there is something one could add to the paint to give it a more flat appearance. saigamantx what are your thoughts on this?

When I started this build I planned on using the yellowish stock set, rack #61. However, I changed my mind and went the rack number 17. This set was much darker in color and looked a little different than some of the others I've seen. I think I am going to call this good. My colors match the original painted parts like I had hoped for and I am happy with the look. I now have enough parts to build another Rhodie so rack number 61 will be making an appearance pretty soon.

Thank you all for following this thread and please let me know what you think of the thread, my build, and of course the end product.


.


.


.


.


.


.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Paint_013.jpg (116.4 KB, 945 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Paint_011.jpg (144.7 KB, 1094 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Painted_011.jpg (115.9 KB, 2777 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Painted_006.jpg (116.2 KB, 1249 views)
File Type: jpg Rhodie_Pnt_Rght_001.jpg (185.5 KB, 1179 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71

Last edited by G3isMe; September 12, 2015 at 15:10.
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 18, 2015, 23:30   #12
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Top
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 20, 2015, 03:24   #13
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
Quote:
Originally Posted by G3isMe View Post


.
Your butt stock looks a like how mine in my Rhodie kit looked when I got it. Lots of paint on the butt stock, but not much on the rest of the parts. Can't wait to see how yours turns out!

__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 20, 2015, 07:37   #14
Flypaper
Curio & Relic
Gold Contributor
 
Flypaper's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 71040
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Northern, MN
Posts: 2,509
That looks Great. I like how you took the time for all the pictures.

This should be a Rhodie sticky.
Flypaper is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 20, 2015, 09:43   #15
rbgonoles
Registered
Contributor
 
rbgonoles's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 74764
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 1,447
Quote:
Originally Posted by G3isMe View Post
I started work on disassembling the kit and as luck would have it when I was trying to get the stock off the damn recoil tube came off with it. This is the second time within a week that this has happened to me. Before that, I have never had it happen before....
Cheers
rbgonoles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 20, 2015, 12:06   #16
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by G3isMe
I started work on disassembling the kit and as luck would have it when I was trying to get the stock off the damn recoil tube came off with it. This is the second time within a week that this has happened to me. Before that, I have never had it happen before....

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbgonoles View Post
Cheers
I blame you! Never had this happen until your voodoo thread...


.
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 20, 2015, 12:37   #17
rbgonoles
Registered
Contributor
 
rbgonoles's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 74764
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 1,447
Looking forward to your progress and documenting your Rhodie build.
rbgonoles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old June 20, 2015, 20:39   #18
stitcher
Registered
 
FALaholic #: 65879
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Somerset, Pa
Posts: 826
Thanks, I know I will enjoy this!
stitcher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 04, 2015, 23:26   #19
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Bump for addition of head space addition.
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 05, 2015, 01:01   #20
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
You ain't got this done yet?
__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 05, 2015, 17:08   #21
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozmacozmy View Post
You ain't got this done yet?
.... I shall serve no Fal before it's time..... It's kind of like a TV cooking show, but I'm not quite ready to pull it out of the oven just yet......


.

__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 05, 2015, 17:47   #22
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
LOL! I thought it took me forever to build and finish my Rhodie!

__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 06, 2015, 00:37   #23
1911Ron
Registered
 
FALaholic #: 17513
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South of the Fulda gap
Posts: 1,216
Thank you for the detailed descriptions, I've learned me something
__________________
FAL convert.
"Too old to fight, too slow to run, but I can still shoot pretty good!"
1911Ron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 10, 2015, 20:15   #24
rbgonoles
Registered
Contributor
 
rbgonoles's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 74764
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 1,447
Looking good. Thanks for the inspiration. I've got my DSA type 2, poop paint and Rhodie Kit on the way.
rbgonoles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 15, 2015, 02:52   #25
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
I added 4 Posts and About 45 Additional Photographs Aug 15-2015

I just posted 4 more full posts with over 45 photos documenting the complete assembly of the lower and upper receiver parts. Let me now what you think of these posts. Please also tell me how I can improve the thread, what is missing that you would like to see, or conversely what did I include that was not really necessary. And if you find any mistakes or errors please let me know asap and I will be sure correct them as soon as possible.


.
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 15, 2015, 22:45   #26
1911Ron
Registered
 
FALaholic #: 17513
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South of the Fulda gap
Posts: 1,216
I like that you explain how to install a part and tips and tricks to help with tricky parts.
__________________
FAL convert.
"Too old to fight, too slow to run, but I can still shoot pretty good!"
1911Ron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 15, 2015, 23:44   #27
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
Just wanted to add my Rhodie now with it's final poop paint for inspiration!



She's looking good G3isMe!
__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 16, 2015, 00:09   #28
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Thanks Ron, Hopefully it will help others and you can learn some of the tricks which I have. The dental floss trick has save me a lot of heartache on refinished gas blocks where otherwise I know I would have scratched the heck out the finish.


Cozmacozmy your paint looks great. I am ready to start painting mine as soon as I get some free time. I think I have now accumulated enough parts to start building another Rhodie. I just received a real nice UM marked barrel from msnyder a week or so ago. So it looks like I will be having twins soon...:Biggrin:

.
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 16, 2015, 00:51   #29
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
ahhh twins!!!!!!

__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 16, 2015, 01:05   #30
1911Ron
Registered
 
FALaholic #: 17513
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South of the Fulda gap
Posts: 1,216
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozmacozmy View Post
Just wanted to add my Rhodie now with it's final poop paint for inspiration!



She's looking good G3isMe!
I like it!
__________________
FAL convert.
"Too old to fight, too slow to run, but I can still shoot pretty good!"
1911Ron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 16, 2015, 01:59   #31
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
Thanks man!
__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 18, 2015, 14:01   #32
rbgonoles
Registered
Contributor
 
rbgonoles's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 74764
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 1,447
I say go with the dark stock for this build and the lighter for the next one. Looking good. Were you planning on doing any poop painting?
rbgonoles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 18, 2015, 15:18   #33
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
Hey rbgonoles, I hope you don't mind... I used a thing you said the other day about these Rhodies & poop paint for my sig line? I thought it was pretty cool!
__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 18, 2015, 20:00   #34
1911Ron
Registered
 
FALaholic #: 17513
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South of the Fulda gap
Posts: 1,216
#17 looks like s#%t I like it!
__________________
FAL convert.
"Too old to fight, too slow to run, but I can still shoot pretty good!"
1911Ron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 18, 2015, 20:14   #35
rbgonoles
Registered
Contributor
 
rbgonoles's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 74764
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 1,447
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozmacozmy View Post
Hey rbgonoles, I hope you don't mind... I used a thing you said the other day about these Rhodies & poop paint for my sig line? I thought it was pretty cool!
Cheers! Never thought I'd be so excited about poop...paint

Last edited by rbgonoles; August 18, 2015 at 20:54.
rbgonoles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 18, 2015, 22:24   #36
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbgonoles View Post
Cheers! Never thought I'd be so excited about poop...paint
I smile and think of my 8 year old nephew every time I say that. LOL!


G3isMe, I like the #61 stock (also looks a lot like mine), but the top cover does work with the buttstock. As long you use it on another Rhodie I guess it doesn't matter.
__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 27, 2015, 00:43   #37
saigamantx
Registered
 
FALaholic #: 62768
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Western Slope Colorado
Posts: 1,818
I saw scrape that damn commie paint off the top and reveal the Rhodie paint underneath! In a lot of cases that paint they put over the top will scrape off with your finger nail.
saigamantx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 02, 2015, 12:56   #38
rbgonoles
Registered
Contributor
 
rbgonoles's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 74764
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 1,447
Bump for G3. Dying for some poop paint action...get'er done
rbgonoles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old September 02, 2015, 20:02   #39
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
We want poop! We want poop! We want poop!


Hold a second... wtf am I saying?

__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 02, 2015, 23:49   #40
mp
Registered
 
mp's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 654
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 2,710
Nice post. Let me know when you are ready to go into production and you can help me screw a bunch together!
mp is online now   Reply With Quote
Old September 10, 2015, 19:03   #41
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Started painting the rifle...I'm no artist, but I am using the mindset that if I was given a can of paint and told to paint my rifle, this is what it would look like. From what saigamantx's research shows is that this is most likely how these rifles were originally painted.

.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp View Post
Nice post. Let me know when you are ready to go into production and you can help me screw a bunch together!
.
I would love to put some together with ya' MP. I am getting ready to thread a couple G1s and BGS kits together very soon.

.
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 27, 2016, 22:00   #42
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
I ended up removing the Mugabe paint scheme and went back to the Rhodesian
traditional look.

.




.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rhodie Rack Number.jpg (208.9 KB, 602 views)
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 27, 2016, 22:05   #43
Huss
"the enabler"
Gold Contributor
 
Huss's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 76224
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 459
Arrow

Bumpski this awesome thread. Looks great Rick!!

Last edited by Huss; August 28, 2016 at 14:14.
Huss is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 28, 2016, 08:19   #44
hkshooter
Mighty Fine!
Silver Contributor
 
hkshooter's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 5391
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 7,247
I've never been a fan of the poop. Not even a little bit.
Having said that I like your decision to go Rhodie vs Mugabe. Looks better, IMO.

I had not seen this thread until today, not sure how I missed it. You've done some fine work here, Rick. Good job!
And I agree with you about head spacing. I see no reason whatsoever to remove the extractor and never have. Along with your beliefs for leaving it in, I'm also to the belief that if the extractor is going to affect the head space then I want it installed so the head space is still valid when the rifle is together and operating.
How much sense does it make to believe the extractor should be removed to set head space, so it doesn't affect head space when setting it, so after head space is set we can install the extractor and screw up the head space?
I'm with you, the only reason to remove the extractor is because it's easier to get the gauge in and out not having to hook it under the extractor.

And about that, when I'm checking pin sizes I don't pull the gauge all the way out, I simply pull back the bolt about 1/4", just enough to clear the pin and hole and swap pins. The gauge stays in the chamber until I have my number.
__________________
How's your dog, Paden?
hkshooter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old August 28, 2016, 08:50   #45
Cozmacozmy
Registered
 
Cozmacozmy's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 9260
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,476
Never been a fan of the poop!!! WHAT!?

jk

Never thought of the extractor that way. I didn't ever find it was hard to remove and reinstall when I did my build. I guess I got lucky. I didn't even have the tool.

Glad to see you went back to the Rhodie look G! Looks a lot better!
__________________
Jeff-"The world needs more Rhodies"!
rbgonoles-"This old gal is fated for some poop paint once she's twisted up".
Cozmacozmy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 08, 2017, 06:39   #46
Huss
"the enabler"
Gold Contributor
 
Huss's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 76224
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 459
Step #9 is on the agenda today. My first attempt on my own did not go so well for my regulator spring.



With a new spring, some dental floss, and the help from a very detailed and informative thread. I am feeling more confident on this and cleaning better between my teeth now....
Huss is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 08, 2017, 07:55   #47
Huss
"the enabler"
Gold Contributor
 
Huss's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 76224
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 459


It worked perfectly!!! Thanks for all the time and hard work that went into this thread. Got the gas tube pinned. Ready to get back out to the range and see if she will cycle.
Huss is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 27, 2017, 21:37   #48
ColeD100
Registered
Contributor
 
FALaholic #: 79329
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 50
Paper on Barrel

Hey I am doing a first time FAL build was there any special type of paper that you used on your barrel with your barrel vise- just average writing paper- Thanks for the great write up- it is awesome help. Cole
ColeD100 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 29, 2017, 08:34   #49
hkshooter
Mighty Fine!
Silver Contributor
 
hkshooter's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 5391
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 7,247
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeD100 View Post
Hey I am doing a first time FAL build was there any special type of paper that you used on your barrel with your barrel vise- just average writing paper- Thanks for the great write up- it is awesome help. Cole
Practically anything works. I used paper towel the first time, works well enough I keep using it because it's on the bench. Writing paper works fine, too, but I find paper towel easier to manipulate.
__________________
How's your dog, Paden?
hkshooter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old May 17, 2017, 18:21   #50
G3isMe
Not a Sr. Senior Member
Bronze Contributor
 
G3isMe's Avatar
 
FALaholic #: 6530
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Clinging to my Guns and Religion
Posts: 5,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by hkshooter View Post
Practically anything works. I used paper towel the first time, works well enough I keep using it because it's on the bench. Writing paper works fine, too, but I find paper towel easier to manipulate.
^^this^^ I use regular writing/typing paper (LOL aged myself right there, should I say printer paper). I've never tried a paper towel, but I will. It is really just something to prevent the barrel from slipping and prevent marring the finish.

.
__________________
.
“When you don't know how many you have... you might have enough........" 12v71
G3isMe is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:11.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©1998-2015 The FAL Files