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Old March 25, 2017, 22:06   #51
grumpy1
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Originally Posted by Bogie View Post
I figure one experts opinion is as good as another. You know what they say about opinions. Actually, I trust my gunsmith more. I watched him inspect the weapon. Couldn't do that with Ruger. I also believe that a Ruger opinion would not be impartial and unbiased.

He checked for bulges and was not able to detect any. He put dummy rounds in it and cycled it, etc. He said it locked up fine and is ok to shoot.

He said that he doesn't think you can get enough powder in a 44 case to damage a Ruger Super Redhawk, and that his hat would be off to anyone that could blow one up. He also said that had it been a S&W it would have exploded.

This gun NEEDS to be checked by Ruger. They know ALL the tolerance for that gun and have ALL the tools and gauges to check it.

I've survived two Kabooms, one with a Ruger GP100 and the other with a Glock G20. Neither was fun and something I don't want to do again. I'm not sure what happened with the Glock but I think it was a combination of weak brass and a charge right at the max with the possibility of a rifle primer mixed in. It stretched out the case head of the 10mm larger than that of a .45ACP. Glad that Glock designs there pistols to vent the gas down threw the mag well instead of trying to hold all the pressure.

But YOU can either take the advice of other or ignore it... your a big boy. At least I hope you are.
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Old March 25, 2017, 23:39   #52
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I saw a Ruger Blackhawk in the old Mashburn Arms in Oklahoma City years ago. It was a pre transfer bar .357 magnum. The note said it was double charged with Bullseye powder. The fired chamber blew out upwards and completely separated the top strap from the revolver. Something I personally thought was impossible with a Ruger single action revolver.

That said if Ruger inspects the gun and deems it unsafe they will simply refuse to sell you a replacement cylinder. Its yours so they cannot refuse to return it to you. It won't be repaired but it will be returned. Surely you don't want to tempt fate a second time by shooting a gun condemned by its manufacturer?

Last edited by Texas Jaguar; March 25, 2017 at 23:49. Reason: more text
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Old March 26, 2017, 09:09   #53
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Ok. Ok. You've convinced me. I almost shot it this morning, but my wrist is still sore from the kaboom, so I didn't, and despite what my gunsmith said, I'm still apprehensive about shooting it. And yes, I hope that 63 qualifies me as a big boy.
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Old March 26, 2017, 20:32   #54
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If your bound and determined to try it then tape it to an old tire or whatever you can find that will hold it in place. Tie a long cord to the trigger and get FAR away. Be sure to load only the chamber that suffered the KABOOM. Do it solo. No sense getting someone else hurt. Good luck, whatever you choose to do.
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Old March 27, 2017, 20:28   #55
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Mic the hole the round was in and compare it to the others. Mic the cylinder to look for egging. If it didn't change shape I'd certainly feel better about shooting it. Still best to get Ruger to check it, but the thing's a tank that I'd trust to shake something like this off probably more than any other firearm on the market. That's why my big bore says Redhawk on it as well.
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Old March 28, 2017, 09:05   #56
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I believe this thread has convinced me to go with the ruger redhawk instead of the sandw29. at least to start with.
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Old March 28, 2017, 11:45   #57
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Glad to read that you are ok. As stated many times before, I wouldn't shoot it, and I would send it in to Ruger for inspection as they have all the tools, gauges, etc to determine if its safe or not, because you exceeded the proof load by a substantial margin. I would also bet that they have people on staff that do nothing else but work on those revolvers. Your life, limb, and eyesight is worth far more then shooting a revolver that has been through that without having it inspected by someone who really knows them.
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Old March 28, 2017, 14:16   #58
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I believe this thread has convinced me to go with the ruger redhawk instead of the sandw29. at least to start with.
Smiths are pretty and all, and I LOVE my 686+, but no 29 could take what a Redhawk will, and live to tell about it (as well as leaving your digits attached).

29 triggers are certainly better, but I have inherent trust in the Ruger, for exactly this reason. Had a trigger job done on my RH and it's decent. Still not what my 686 is with a job by the same guy, at the same time, but certainly acceptable in single and double action.
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Old March 28, 2017, 21:39   #59
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If I had that happen to my Super Redhawk, it would go back to Ruger before I even got over the shock of the incident. The thought of a catastrophic failure and losing fingers,eyes or any other body part just would scare the crap out of me !
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Old March 28, 2017, 22:30   #60
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and yanno what if it blowed up and shredded your junk.......don't go there.
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Old March 29, 2017, 09:06   #61
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Of all wheelguns have more 44 magnums than any other followed by 357 magnum then the big boys. I shoot more 44 special than magnum as have a love for five shot 44 specials as carry guns. Have a near and dear departed friend who decided to start reloading. Had three college degrees, all in accounting, business and statistics geared toward streamlining the bottom end costs of running corporations. His math told him would get more rounds per pound using a faster powder and used lots of Bullseye. In 38 a 3.1 to 3.5 grain charge will launch a gazillion cast bullets per pound. He also used his geeked up brain to choose turret presses. I like the Lee four hole units myself for simple caliber change and moderate size runs of cartridges don't run thousands down range.

He had a bad habit of getting distracted and sipping scotch after getting home from a day of counting beans and eliminating jobs to save operating costs of whoever had hired him to increase profits. Using his fast powders he had a propensity to double charge some cases and fail to charge others. Usually the double charge was sitting next to the mischarge. Three wheelguns and one 1911 KaBoom later and he just gave up. Would literally bring his stuff to my house and chat while I ran his cases through my equipment (yes I know the rules but we were born two days apart in same hospital, he lived with my parents and I for over a decade which made him family, plus kept him from killing himself till stress ate him from inside out) and never suffered a KaBoom again.

When I purchased my first press and casting setup at age 13 (local game warden started me with his equipment early but lived on a paved road and had to get a ride, only allowed to drive dirt roads till 15) was chunking hundreds of cast 140 grain wadcutters in 38 per week on a kids budget. Trying to build a gun collection, keep my car running (living on a farm in the 70's was different world than today), and shoot nonstop required lots of working and my lifetime issue of short sleeper syndrome allowed a lot of tasks to get done while rest of world slept. Never had a KaBoom for over a million rounds till a 5,000 count lot of pull down bullets that didn't know had several different weight projectiles and even a few 243 projectiles in a 1,000 count bags of 223 bullets proved to me a worn out first generation, second party bullet feeder would sit anything poured in hopper into a case if it was close to correct size and weight. AR 15 KaBoom and a 40+ year perfect record reloading ruined.

Once turned 16, had purchased a few nice guns and seen some blown up guns at range except for my 38 special 140 grain load, mostly abandoned fast powders. For 357 magnum and larger I will not use a powder that is not more than a 50% case fill so a double charge will puke out all over bench and a mischarge is easily seen. All of my presses have LED lighting kits so can see very well what's going on. Even without overcharging using fast powders in a large case can cause a flash over KaBoom.

Very good lighting on all benches, even my bullet lube stations (four Lyman 450' and five Lyman 45's have LED's)



Not a lightweight loader can process some handloads.



Even my ham radio shack is well lighted and hard to blow ones self up with a radio but stray voltage is shocking.



Lots of reference material reminds one to double and triple check.



Save my money chunking lead, not with quick powder.



Like to play with 454 Casull and 500 magnums where a double charge would most likely be catastrophic with 300 plus grain hard cast bullets. Most of my pet 44 magnums are too valuable to mess up such as my Colt snake guns in 357 and 44, plus a passel of Dan Wesson switch barrel 744VH's. Can set the barrel cylinder gap and barrel tension on them and when tighten tolerances have less margin of error. Actually traded my last Ruger Redhawk for a suppressor last year. Never got shot as prefer my flat top Blackhawks in a Ruger or Dan Wesson's for accuracy work. Wheelgun or pistol, rifle or muzzleloader, most KaBooms have seen were either squib followed by full power or double charge with fast powder. Just say no to regular use of fast powder or come up with meticulous bench work flow.

Have a lot of loads developed that can dip the case in bowl of powder, shake off level and stuff a bullet in for compressed load that are joys to shoot. Even in the day of owning multiple progressive presses, turret presses, powder measures of all types still find myself over a loading block with LED headlight on to see well into cases and use old fashioned Lee powder dippers. Even have one favorite 38 HBWC load that uses a trimmed to size 9mm case with wire handle brazed on and dip case in powder, shake off level the pour in cases loading. When single charging cases in loading blocks good light and triple check to make sure all are charged and same level is just the thing to do.
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Old March 29, 2017, 17:19   #62
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Mic the hole the round was in and compare it to the others. Mic the cylinder to look for egging. If it didn't change shape I'd certainly feel better about shooting it. Still best to get Ruger to check it, but the thing's a tank that I'd trust to shake something like this off probably more than any other firearm on the market. That's why my big bore says Redhawk on it as well.
This is interesting.... starting with the hole that had the kaboom and going clockwise the holes measure .4095, .4095, .4100, .4100, .4090, and .4105. Checking for "egging" I took four measurements 1.780, 1.780, 1.779, and 1.778. I did the measurements 3 times. They were all within a couple thousandths.

Last edited by Bogie; March 29, 2017 at 17:28. Reason: P.S.
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Old March 30, 2017, 09:33   #63
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This is interesting.... starting with the hole that had the kaboom and going clockwise the holes measure .4095, .4095, .4100, .4100, .4090, and .4105. Checking for "egging" I took four measurements 1.780, 1.780, 1.779, and 1.778. I did the measurements 3 times. They were all within a couple thousandths.
Looks like the pressure took the routes it should... down the barrel, out the cylinder/forcing cone gap, and out of the primer hole. Not fun, but it protected the pistol.

As someone else mentioned I'd probably fire it remotely for a few cylinders of full-house PRODUCTION ammo, and if it clocks and fires fine consider it a lesson learned and go back to enjoying it.... IF you don't have at least a competent smith or Ruger look it over.
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Old March 30, 2017, 11:50   #64
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Another late old cheap bastard I knew, loved to use reddot in his trap gun, instead of more expensive, higher bulk clays........

Clays could not be double charged in a 12 ga hull without serious bulging.
Red dot was ez to do that with!!

We all loaded on progressive loaders due to volume of shells needed on a given day.

Anyway, he double loaded a hull with red dot.............KABOOM went his $12,000 Krieghoff O&U.
Sweet gun, I shot it once or twice. Bbl unit just sailed "out there", according to the story.


His replacement gun was $18,000.
He is dead now, and was an old bastard. I am trying to be an older bastard; no red dot for me.
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Old March 30, 2017, 16:07   #65
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I believe this thread has convinced me to go with the ruger redhawk instead of the sandw29. at least to start with.
S&W is class, grace and (at some times in their history) precision, while Ruger is brute strength.
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Old March 31, 2017, 05:36   #66
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Own of have owned Colts, S&W 29's, Blackhawks, Redhawks, Dan Wesson, Taurus and more in 44 Mag. Redhawks are tanks but hardest to milk accuracy out of, tune triggers to perfection, time perfectly etc. Have sent many to specialty smith's and never shot to standards I prefer at longer distances. Since most days, have to shoot S/A to get a clean trigger break, go ahead and find a nice old Flat Top Blackhawk. Never had a Redhawk that would out shoot a Blackhawk out of the box or with equal dollars spent having custom smith work done. Remember the bigger the gun, the more important timing and triggers are done by an S/A specialist, not a jack of all trades. Especially when having cylinders trued, forcing cones tweaked and barrel/cylinder gap set snug. With iron sights when shooting 200 yard rams on the IMSA course, gotta find every 1/10th you can get of mechanical accuracy to compensate for human error.
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Old April 01, 2017, 12:28   #67
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Glad to read that you are ok. As stated many times before, I wouldn't shoot it, and I would send it in to Ruger for inspection as they have all the tools, gauges, etc to determine if its safe or not, because you exceeded the proof load by a substantial margin. I would also bet that they have people on staff that do nothing else but work on those revolvers. Your life, limb, and eyesight is worth far more then shooting a revolver that has been through that without having it inspected by someone who really knows them.
What do you mean by "exceeded the proof load by a substantial margin?" What's a proof load and what's the proof load for my 44 mag?
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Old April 01, 2017, 12:32   #68
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Looks like the pressure took the routes it should... down the barrel, out the cylinder/forcing cone gap, and out of the primer hole. Not fun, but it protected the pistol.

As someone else mentioned I'd probably fire it remotely for a few cylinders of full-house PRODUCTION ammo, and if it clocks and fires fine consider it a lesson learned and go back to enjoying it.... IF you don't have at least a competent smith or Ruger look it over.
I have a place where I could fire it remotely, just don't know what I could use to secure it so it wouldn't go airborne when I trip off the first round.
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Old April 01, 2017, 20:49   #69
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Tie the string around the trigger and then Tape the gun to a small tire with Many wraps of DUCT tape ,,, cock the hammer get behind your cover and --===pull the string !
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Old April 02, 2017, 04:38   #70
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Tie the string around the trigger and then Tape the gun to a small tire with Many wraps of DUCT tape ,,, cock the hammer get behind your cover and --===pull the string !
LOL!!!!

Number 1 son suggested bringing my vise, somehow wrapping the gun in leather to protect it, put it in the vise, an shoot.....

I do have an old tire that hasn't gone to the dump yet. That sounds like the easiest way to do this.

Since all the cylinder holes measure the same and the cylinder isn't warped it's probably fine, but there may be stress fractures.

I was going to take it to a local wildlife management area that has a 100 yd zero range for hunting. Just checked and it closed at the end of March for the season and won't open again until this fall. Damn! Now I have no place to go to do it. Doubt they'll let me bring a tire into the NRA range.

Last edited by Bogie; April 02, 2017 at 04:39. Reason: typo
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Old April 02, 2017, 10:01   #71
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... According to the Lee reloading manual 13 gr of Acc#5 should produce 37,400 CUP, so mathematically 13/37400=22.7/X , right. (The rounds had 22.7 gr of Acc#5) So, if you solve for X, 22.7 gr of Acc#5 would produce 65,306 CUP, right? (Book say max pressure should not exceed 40,000 CUP). Does this make sense?
Quickload predicts 104,638 psi. Since your brass remained intact I don't think this can be true. Since your primer fell out I'm going to guess 70-75K psi.
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Old April 02, 2017, 14:56   #72
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If you are going to test how safe this is after the incident, I would highly recommend doing a safe test where you are not holding the pistol in your hand!
There are ways to remotely test weapons and not endanger your life or limbs, not to mention bystanders.
It's your business but not all gunsmiths are experts and there may be damage that you cannot see without magnetic particle inspection or other means.
By all means, be smart and safe. You already got lucky once with this handgun!
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Old April 03, 2017, 15:42   #73
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Quickload predicts 104,638 psi. Since your brass remained intact I don't think this can be true. Since your primer fell out I'm going to guess 70-75K psi.
I think you're probably close. The one thing my calculation doesn't take into account is the added pressure due to less empty space in the case. (e.g. 12.7 grains fills the case to about ~1/3 available space. 22.7 grains fills it to ~2/3 available space.)
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Old April 07, 2017, 03:59   #74
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If I had that happen to my Super Redhawk, it would go back to Ruger before I even got over the shock of the incident. The thought of a catastrophic failure and losing fingers,eyes or any other body part just would scare the crap out of me !
This, and I would've done it before trying to remove the case and tweaking the cylinder back into place with a hammer. Let the experts, and the experts in this case are the guys at Ruger.

You got lucky, but still are toying with the idea of trying the gun again
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Old April 07, 2017, 15:57   #75
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This, and I would've done it before trying to remove the case and tweaking the cylinder back into place with a hammer. Let the experts, and the experts in this case are the guys at Ruger.

You got lucky, but still are toying with the idea of trying the gun again
Boy oh boy. I've said this before on this thread....Everyone sure seems to really, really trust Ruger for an unbiased, impartial evaluation. Do you really expect to get any other answer from any gun manufacturer that the cylinder is ruined? I would be totally amazed if they said it was good to go. I'd even be willing to bet $300 that Ruger's answer is that the cylinder needs to be replaced. That's probably about the cost of replacing it. Wanna bet? They say replace it, you give me $300. They say it's good to go, I give you $300.

I've done a lot of measuring of the holes and cylinder, holes all measure the same, cylinder is not warped, everything appears in order, my gunsmith has checked it out, he's ok with it. He said no bulges in the barrel, locks up tight. In my mind, the only problem could be invisible microscopic fractures in the cylinder. It's only because of that possibility that I still don't feel comfortable shooting it by hand. I'm searching for some land in the country where I can strap it to a tire and shoot a dozen or so rounds remotely. I'll let you know how it works out.

Last edited by Bogie; April 07, 2017 at 16:15. Reason: typo
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Old April 07, 2017, 17:58   #76
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Just shoot the damn thing. If it bothers you wear a face shield a coat and leather gloves.
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Old April 08, 2017, 13:32   #77
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According to SAAMI, the standard proof loads for the 44 mag cartridge range from 130% to 140% of the maximum loaded ammo pressure. You obviously exceeded that pressure limit. You stressed all parts of that pistol, from the cylinder lock, hand, cylinder, frame forcing cone and barrel, to name a few. As most here advised, send it to Ruger. So what if they are biased, big deal. They will not tell you the gun is safe when it is not. That is not in their best interest. Sending you back a gun that they have said is okay to shoot because all is well or they repaired it, is in their best interest.

If you want to rely on your local 'smith because he will let you look over his shoulder, go ahead. But what training and equipment does he have to insure that his inspection checked everything? You have already "looked at it" and it looks and feels "alright". Why aren't you satisfied with that?

Go ahead and shoot the pistol if you want. The membership here will not hesitate to say "We told you so", when the inevitable happens.
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Old April 10, 2017, 18:22   #78
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Would not fool with myself or send to Ruger either. My preferred wheelgun smith retired and won't touch a gun for even good clients for any reason or amount of money. Said at 70 only has a finite number of years to shoot all the guns he built for himself and that is what he I s going to do. The shop is dark but his range is hot. Gotta love it. Of the folks still out there and have experience with would send to Ten Ring Precision (only shop know offering some of Jim Strohs options), Grant Cunningham, Clements Custom Guns, Wild West Guns or if want production type custom work try Cylinder & Slide or Clark Custom Guns. Since your more in the "inspect and repair" rather than looking for customization, Wild West has a good reputation for repairs. Ruger is so lawsuit scared they will call the pistol unserviceable. I would not begin to assume all the small parts are not affected as much as major stress areas. How many internals attached to cylinder stop could be bent or stressed? What's the condition of the top strap?

If doing myself would oder a new cylinder and crane to totally replace those parts. If never timed a wheel gun then now is not the time to learn on a suspect pistol. I would assume timimg is off and if bullets are striking forcimg cone just a few thousandths off center repeatedly then accuracy will suffer short term and forcing cone erosion will be magnified long term. Any one of a dozen issues missed that a pro might catch could have the entire pistol come unglued next overpressure event. For what a good smith charges might can buy a good used replacement. I would look at some websites and options offered and send it off with a list of things to tweak. Properly timed, squared cylinder front, barrel cylinder gap set, forcing cone cut along with an action job and will double cost of a wheelgun sometimes but it's worth every penny when done by reliable shop.
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Old April 11, 2017, 16:16   #79
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Another option, for a bit of insurance...

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ShoppingCart.htm
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Old April 11, 2017, 17:43   #80
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Old April 11, 2017, 21:15   #81
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If you don't know what a proof load is and can't be bothered to look it up, you probably aren't qualified to make a determination about the gun's safety to fire.
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Old April 14, 2017, 20:15   #82
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If you are paranoid about revolver I'd send it back to Ruger and have them inspect it. They still make Redhawks so could replace any parts that are suspect.
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Old April 15, 2017, 07:57   #83
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What's the condition of the top strap?
Thanks for the constructive advice, Hueyville. Top strap appears to be fine. I'm going to contact Wild West about it.

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Old April 15, 2017, 07:58   #84
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If you don't know what a proof load is and can't be bothered to look it up, you probably aren't qualified to make a determination about the gun's safety to fire.
If you don't have anything constructive to bring to this discussion just STFU.
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Old April 15, 2017, 08:34   #85
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Could've been worse: it could have been a French revolver, like say a Manurhin MR73. You'd probably be wearing a hook for a hand now.
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Old April 15, 2017, 09:18   #86
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Old April 16, 2017, 03:28   #87
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Wild West does good work at any level. I would be scared sending to a major manufacturer telling what happened may deem it unsafe and refuse to return it. Make sure before send in to get a basic quote for scope of work and promise that if determine that is unsafe to repair will return it for useveral as door stop then you can do whatever feel comfortable with. They will probably say can't give a hard quote till have in hands but a basic quote for shop labor time and services. Worst case is you pay shipping two ways and have gun returned in same condition but will have a professional opinion on all issues. Sent a gun to Ruger before that was disassembled down to every screw and pin and owner didn't know how to reassemble, I didn't take apart, bought it cheap and figured Ruger built it, they could reassemble it. Got a letter it was beyond ability due to age and nobody in-house trained on it and never returned it.
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Old April 16, 2017, 03:38   #88
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Ruger may or may not condemn your revolver. A member of my club recently had a reloading mishap with his Ruger No. 1 rifle in .223. One of his reloads blew out the extractor and turned the forend into splinters. He sent it back to Ruger and they replaced everything no charge. We all told the guy to pull the bullets on that batch of reloads but he swore up, down and sideways that the reloads were fine. He bought a new CZ bolt action rifle in the same caliber to shoot while the Ruger was being repaired. First shot in that one using the same batch of ammo sheared the bolts lugs, launched the extractor, and magazine and splintered the stock severely. CZ was not so accommodating as Ruger and gave him $100 off towards a new rifle. He still swears there is no problem with his reloads.
You can't fix "stupid"... what does it take to pull (or pitch) a few cartridges???

OP: My own experiences with Ruger, admittedly while Old Billious was still running the company- make me think that returning the whole business to Ruger might be a good plan. They have always been more than fair with the issues I directed toward them... YMMV....
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Old April 28, 2017, 19:53   #89
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If you don't have anything constructive to bring to this discussion just STFU.
You sound like a dumbfuck - constructive enough?
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Old April 28, 2017, 19:54   #90
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Could've been worse: it could have been a French revolver, like say a Manurhin MR73. You'd probably be wearing a hook for a hand now.
Except they can take over half a million full power loads....
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Old April 29, 2017, 16:10   #91
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you could always sell it. 😳then buy another😱
Not acceptable, have YOU ever ended up with a POS where someone has done that????

I have, Once. Why pass on Misery ? Do you even have just One friend?
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Old April 29, 2017, 19:14   #92
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S&W is class, grace and (at some times in their history) precision, while Ruger is brute strength.
S&W is an easy carry gun - the Ruger Redhawk is a Horse Pistol

That said I have never had to have my Redhawk worked on - my S&W was taken into the shop back in the days when I shot sillywet with it - I ain't giving up my S&W 29 but I shoot more moderate loads these days in it.

Here's a story for you - Friend of mine was given a bunch of guns there were in a house fire - the guns were on a wall and the wall collapsed inward - saving them from all the heat of the fire. On Some of the guns the springs lost their tension - we decided to not even attempt to save those - of the guns that the springs were still good on we had replaced wood and had to fight with rust and refinish them - one of the guns was a Ruger Blackhawk 30 carbine - I thought I'll just take it down and sand blast and then send it into Ruger for a reblue and have them check it - I disclosed what happened and they refused to repair it - offered to sell me replacement at (cost/wholesale) not much less than I could order a new model from my distributor so I declined and they shipped it back to me. Now several of the guns restored were rifles for 30'06, 250-3000, and other high pressure rounds - no problem with them so I doubt the Pistol was beyond repair. But Ruger (and it's legal dept.) will have bias to err on the side of caution and your safety.
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Old April 30, 2017, 07:26   #93
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Except they can take over half a million full power loads....
My point exactly
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Old April 30, 2017, 07:31   #94
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manurhin_MR_73


Quote:
Cylinder chambers are finished with an impact process that makes them glass-smooth and extremely hard. The factory proof-fires each cylinder chamber with .357 Magnum ammunition generating 30% more pressure than the C.I.P. maximum allowable pressure for the Magnum cartridge. The factory guarantees that the cylinder will not burst or show any bulging or deformation with .357 Magnum ammunition developing double the standard maximum allowable pressure of 300 MPa, meaning the cylinder can withstand 600 MPa (87000 psi, or 43.5 tons per square inch).
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Old May 01, 2017, 15:18   #95
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S&W is an easy carry gun - the Ruger Redhawk is a Horse Pistol

That said I have never had to have my Redhawk worked on - my S&W was taken into the shop back in the days when I shot sillywet with it - I ain't giving up my S&W 29 but I shoot more moderate loads these days in it.

Here's a story for you - Friend of mine was given a bunch of guns there were in a house fire - the guns were on a wall and the wall collapsed inward - saving them from all the heat of the fire. On Some of the guns the springs lost their tension - we decided to not even attempt to save those - of the guns that the springs were still good on we had replaced wood and had to fight with rust and refinish them - one of the guns was a Ruger Blackhawk 30 carbine - I thought I'll just take it down and sand blast and then send it into Ruger for a reblue and have them check it - I disclosed what happened and they refused to repair it - offered to sell me replacement at (cost/wholesale) not much less than I could order a new model from my distributor so I declined and they shipped it back to me. Now several of the guns restored were rifles for 30'06, 250-3000, and other high pressure rounds - no problem with them so I doubt the Pistol was beyond repair. But Ruger (and it's legal dept.) will have bias to err on the side of caution and your safety.
A few years ago I was asked if I would restore a Ruger SP101 2" revolver that was in a house fire. The grips were gone and all the springs lost most of their tension, and the revolver was fairly blackened but it didn't seem to have gotten too hot in the fire. I steel-wooled it, ordered new springs and grips for it, and I'll be danged if it didn't work fine. I ran five .38 specials through it followed by five .357 rounds and gave it back to the guy. He's used it for several years since then with no issues.
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Old May 09, 2017, 17:13   #96
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A few years ago I was asked if I would restore a Ruger SP101 2" revolver that was in a house fire. The grips were gone and all the springs lost most of their tension, and the revolver was fairly blackened but it didn't seem to have gotten too hot in the fire. I steel-wooled it, ordered new springs and grips for it, and I'll be danged if it didn't work fine. I ran five .38 specials through it followed by five .357 rounds and gave it back to the guy. He's used it for several years since then with no issues.
For future reference, steel wool is not ideal for putting a final finish on stainless steel. Steel wool is harder than stainless and will embed fine, carbon-rich steel strands in the surface of the stainless. These areas will then be susceptible to develop rust marks.

An abrasive pad like scotchbrite would be a better choice.
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Old May 10, 2017, 06:38   #97
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An abrasive pad like scotchbrite would be a better choice.
Have met a lot of folks that associate Scotch Brite pads with an item that comes from grocery store or Wallyworld. Keep them at work in multiple versions. Heavy duty tan for rust removal, maroon for paint preparation, gray ultrafine for final pre-finish buffing of wood when refinishing furniture and white light duty for polishing. Each has a wide variety of uses and often find myself using twould or three different versions to prep something then get the final desired finish desired. Use them on T-6 and T-7 aluminum for brushed finish to prepolish before hitting buffers. Buy them by the twenty count carton at local automotive paint and body supply. Experimenting with different versions and will find literally hundreds of uses for them. Have to clean a lot of painted items that have been outdoors. Find the correct one for a particular finish and combined with soap and water will strip mold, mildew and grime off an item while removing the oxidation from surface of paint and restore item almost to its "as new" condition.

Have built a service for client when their stuff gets looking bad and are told it needs stripped and repainted can put a man with three different type of pads and instructions to be careful with the heavier "grits" and soon client thinks his contractor or painter is a thief and we have another service contract finding ourselves at their homes and other business locations making old stuff look bright and new again. Also they last a long time, keep them clean and we'll rinsed after each use and will be useable till fall apart. Have a gray in shop have been using to clean mildewed and oxidized signs for a couple months. Some days may clean several hundred square feet of nasty road grime covered, mildew cover signs that if use shop towels or paper towels takes double the time and paint still looks dingy. The pads cut through crap and restore the paint in half the time. Just have to figure out which is best for a finish.

Maroon we use for paint prep, first step of polishing aluminum and "wet sanding" items getting automotive enamel of basecoat, clear coat before spraying the sealer. Gray most used as wet sand between final finish and clear coats plus cleaning and then the white use at home for polishing the wife's white porcelain kitchen sink and cleaning the porcelain tubs in rapid fashion that she still is amazed how they go from dingy and stained to looking new in no time. Use them on guns all the time. Can get hands on a rusty nickle or bad looking stainless gun and have shining like new or take a heavier pad and turn a shiny stainless rifle to mat finish or prep for Cerakote. One of the most multiuse products at work and around home.
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Old May 10, 2017, 16:28   #98
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Almost a month since last post from Bogie. Hope it didn't blow up on him!

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Old May 10, 2017, 22:27   #99
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Almost a month since last post from Bogie. Hope it didn't blow up on him!

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