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Old August 06, 2019, 21:21   #1
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New L1A1 Parts Kit

Looks like in very good condition with English parts, can some of the more knowledgeable members of the Files tell me what parts are specifically what? What I'm curious is about the double serial number on the lower and the barrel markings.

Also, do you think the finish is original to the kit or has been refinished at some points? I notice that things like rear sight is parkerized and not painted, the gas piston is marked "ATC" and looks brand new, the bolt and carrier is parked with matching serial numbers that appear to be original finish judging from the serial markings.
















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Old August 06, 2019, 23:39   #2
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Not sure what you're asking - it's been rebuilt several times. Doesn't make it good or bad, but it's not "new".

ATC I've asked before, it's 1980s, but what it stands for, I don't know. Found often on 1980s Parker Hale rebuilds.

Looks like a nice kit, if the 1959 barrel is sound, then you've got a nice set-up.

The (two different times) staking of the recoil plate rivets is FTR - depot level work. The hinge is late PH,

1 on gas block is from arsenal opening worn gas port to .106+

PH late rebuild hinge. Look underneath wor a halo which is from swaging and reboring hinge hole to spec (stretching)

Obvious 2nd coat of paint on carry handle and gas tube nut.

So yeah - arsenal rebuilt at least twice, but so what? If anything, that it was reintroduced to service means it was deemed "in spec" at the time.
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Old August 07, 2019, 07:15   #3
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Very nice Brit SLR kit. Good candidate for an all B59 SLR since major parts (lower, barrel, gas block are marked B59). Just need to find B59 small parts like, trigger, sear, gas nut, flash hide and charging handle.

Save matching B60 BCG as seed for an all B60 build.

UB = BSA
D w/ a bar = Enfield
PH = Parker Hale
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Old August 07, 2019, 07:44   #4
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Don’t bother looking for B59 gas nut. The early nuts took the long gas tube and are almost unobtainable. Use a B61 long nut and short tube. PLUS the nut has to be slid onto the tube before the barrel is timed, and once timed the nut and tube cannot be removed from the rifle for maintenance.
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Old August 07, 2019, 13:24   #5
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Don’t bother looking for B59 gas nut. The early nuts took the long gas tube and are almost unobtainable. Use a B61 long nut and short tube. PLUS the nut has to be slid onto the tube before the barrel is timed, and once timed the nut and tube cannot be removed from the rifle for maintenance.
Is it still possible to use a barrel vice to clamp the barrel down for torquing a new receiver on the barrel if the gas tube has to be kept on the gun due to the long gas tube/short gas plug combination, as you mention my kit has?
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Old August 07, 2019, 15:06   #6
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No. I clamped the bbl in vice with wood blocks at the flats and twisted the receiver on. It’s a bit of a pain in the arse. If I would’ve had aluminum vice jaws it would’ve been easier
No worries for you though, you have long gas nut and short tube(10.25”?). You’re gtg yawing bbl vice, just remove your tube and reinstall after you have the bbl timed.
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Old August 07, 2019, 15:23   #7
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No. I clamped the bbl in vice with wood blocks at the flats and twisted the receiver on. It’s a bit of a pain in the arse. If I would’ve had aluminum vice jaws it would’ve been easier
No worries for you though, you have long gas nut and short tube(10.25”?). You’re gtg yawing bbl vice, just remove your tube and reinstall after you have the bbl timed.
Ah, okay. I misread your initial post, so I do have the long gas plug and the short tube (the better combo), so I shouldn't have any issues clamping the barrel on the vice come installation time.

Thanks for all the info, especially Gunplumber for the info on the kit. I suspected it was an arsenal refinished kit at some point, but I think the finish is good enough to leave as-is, and I will need to source an inch receiver and paint it to match the finish of the rest of the kit. Hopefully if I'm lucky the headspace will work out with the existing locking shoulder but I won't know until I get a receiver to test.
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Old August 07, 2019, 21:01   #8
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Get a proper receiver jig/vice. It is negligence otherwise. I’ll lend you mine if it comes to it.
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Old August 07, 2019, 23:27   #9
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Get a proper receiver jig/vice. It is negligence otherwise. I’ll lend you mine if it comes to it.
Thanks! I will probably send you a PM once I'm ready to build the kit. First I have to find the correct receiver...
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Old August 08, 2019, 07:07   #10
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Thanks! I will probably send you a PM once I'm ready to build the kit. First I have to find the correct receiver...
Being in Commyfonia, I am sure that you will need to do some stupid mods also.
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Old August 08, 2019, 11:46   #11
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Being in Commyfonia, I am sure that you will need to do some stupid mods also.
Yes, I will probably go the FALMR "magazine lock" route. Seems to be the least-intrusive mod to make it California-legal. The shit we have to deal with here.
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Old August 10, 2019, 08:32   #12
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Are there any markings on the bottom of the TMH (lower) between the pistol grip and buttstock? Part of me is wondering if that lower was replaced at some point.

Seems like a fair number of BSA lowers have the restamped serial numbers...the original markings on BSAs were shallow and prone to wear, so I wonder if at some point an order went out to re-mark serials on all BSA rifles as they came in for rebuild.
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Old August 11, 2019, 00:47   #13
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Are there any markings on the bottom of the TMH (lower) between the pistol grip and buttstock? Part of me is wondering if that lower was replaced at some point.

Seems like a fair number of BSA lowers have the restamped serial numbers...the original markings on BSAs were shallow and prone to wear, so I wonder if at some point an order went out to re-mark serials on all BSA rifles as they came in for rebuild.
There are some markings on the bottom of the lower - 960-0071 and various acceptance markings near the tang screw such as the British arrow and a 4 and 7.
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Old August 11, 2019, 15:44   #14
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Nothing after the -0071 that would indicate a maker or year, e.g. D 65?
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Old August 13, 2019, 11:36   #15
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Nothing after the -0071 that would indicate a maker or year, e.g. D 65?
Nope - just the markings I specified unless if the "4" and "7" with the British arrow mark on the tang of the lower receiver frame is a date.
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Old August 14, 2019, 14:32   #16
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4 and 7 Markings

The 4 and/or 7 stamped into the tang of the trigger mechanism housing is an Armourers mark indicating that two modifications have been carried out.

The 4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw

These numbers were also sometimes stamped inside the butt trap
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Old August 14, 2019, 17:22   #17
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4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw

These numbers were also sometimes stamped inside the butt trap
Interesting, I've had trap doors with 47 marked on them.

Are there any other numbers? I have several lowers with 47, so I can assume when the mod was done, they wore plastic furniture.

And what exactly done to return spring screw?

Return spring tube got drilled for drainage after hydraulic pressure ruptured enough stocks,

And there was the change to the return spring screw with the addition of the spigot. I wonder if that was it.
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Old August 14, 2019, 22:01   #18
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Originally Posted by waco16 View Post
The 4 and/or 7 stamped into the tang of the trigger mechanism housing is an Armourers mark indicating that two modifications have been carried out.

The 4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw

These numbers were also sometimes stamped inside the butt trap
What does an "8" stamped on the tang (forward of the "4" and "7") mean?
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Old August 14, 2019, 22:07   #19
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Nope - just the markings I specified unless if the "4" and "7" with the British arrow mark on the tang of the lower receiver frame is a date.
I ask because I recall seeing a "BSA"-marked trigger housing, dated 1959, that had actually been replaced with an Enfield housing from about 1965. It had a similar deep in-line serial number to yours, though it had not been renumbered or FTR'd.

Most BSA rifles that I've seen had much shallower markings...the kind that were probably easy to fade or distort with a good sandblast to get off all that Suncorite 259 during a rebuild.
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Old August 15, 2019, 15:53   #20
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Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
Interesting, I've had trap doors with 47 marked on them.

Are there any other numbers? I have several lowers with 47, so I can assume when the mod was done, they wore plastic furniture.

And what exactly done to return spring screw?

Return spring tube got drilled for drainage after hydraulic pressure ruptured enough stocks,

And there was the change to the return spring screw with the addition of the spigot. I wonder if that was it.
The 7 indicates a modification that has been done to the return spring screw so that when you unscrew it with the correct screwdriver with rod, the screw won't undo the whole return spring tube from the trigger mechanism housing.
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Old August 15, 2019, 15:58   #21
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The 7 indicates a modification that has been done to the return spring screw so that when you unscrew it with the correct screwdriver with rod, the screw won't undo the whole return spring tube from the trigger mechanism housing.
That's a weird one. What modification? I have the complete REME notes for the L1A1 through 87 or 89 and recall nothing on this subject.
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Old August 15, 2019, 17:07   #22
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That's a weird one. What modification? I have the complete REME notes for the L1A1 through 87 or 89 and recall nothing on this subject.
The info came from someone with more qualified than me on the subject - I happened to stumble on an old milsurps post and discovered it:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=26810
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Old August 15, 2019, 23:46   #23
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I been looking for a ub59 lower for 2 months and there it is with your kit.LoL..I have a ub59 kit also in very nice condition. All ub 59 except my lower is ub58.
I may just settle for that being close enough. Nice kit
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Old August 16, 2019, 16:29   #24
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Peter Laidler was often a knowledge source for Ian Skennerton when he wrote his books.



Quote:
Originally Posted by waco16 View Post
The info came from someone with more qualified than me on the subject - I happened to stumble on an old milsurps post and discovered it:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=26810
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Old August 16, 2019, 19:36   #25
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Peter Laidler was often a knowledge source for Ian Skennerton when he wrote his books.
I've been following Peter's posts for years. His knowledge of Commonwealth arms, and "how things were really done in the field", is fantastic.
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Old August 18, 2019, 20:34   #26
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Picture of the underside of the trigger housing which shoes the 4 and 7 markings

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Old August 18, 2019, 21:38   #27
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Thanks for the useful info in this thread. The 4 and 7 mark info is really good stuff.
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Old August 18, 2019, 22:34   #28
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pic of 4/7 with wood stock.



I've stripped well over a thousand lowers and can see no difference whatsoever in return spring plug/screws, other than the wood stock vs the plastic stock (spigot). Nothing suggests a modification that makes it less likely to unscrew the return spring tube. After 30 years of doing this , I've NEVER had an L1A1 return spring tube come loose. About 50-50 on FAL.

I think the referenced "authority" is mistaken and the 7 symbolizes something else. Perhaps the return spring tube drilled for water drainage. There is simply no difference between UK spigot screws.
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