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Old February 29, 2012, 02:50   #51
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tdb59: very good point here. This is definitely the best resizing strategy if the headspace exceeds the no-go value.

SteelonSteel: yes again, considering the tapered shape of the 308 brass, reducing the head space will translate in less lateral play of the shell in the chamber...providing that the chamber is not severely oversized like mine.

I took the freedom to add your suggestions in my post #43 so that it can serve as a quick reference for everybody in case of chamber troubles. Thanks.

In the mean time a new barrel is on the way....
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Old February 29, 2012, 13:27   #52
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Originally Posted by paolo.orange View Post

In the mean time a new barrel is on the way....
An original military barrel, or a new-production one?
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Old February 29, 2012, 13:51   #53
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A new Lothar Walther blank, machined by LuxDefTec in Luxembourg.
Unfortunately ALL the military barrels I've found here are in a very bad shape.
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Old March 01, 2012, 13:00   #54
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I actually want to see these matches, I will be in Austria and Hungary for a great long while.
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Old March 06, 2012, 06:09   #55
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Waiting for my barrel I took the chance to saw a new rifle case in Cordura.
Just for fun I've also made a stencil with Broad Arrow, SN and Australian Army 4th RAR text.

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Old March 06, 2012, 10:43   #56
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You should make a few more cases and sell them. Very nice work!
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Old March 06, 2012, 11:18   #57
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A Velcro flap and slot to allow the carry handle to be used...I like that!
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Old March 06, 2012, 16:56   #58
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I'd be willing to wager what you have posted so far about your progress in accurizing your rifle would be the makings of an interesting article or series in a suitable publication. Shotgun News has series on firearms work that aren't much better. It's something to consider.
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Old March 07, 2012, 08:51   #59
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paolo, this is a great write-up, with tremendous photos to support the efforts you are making to accurize your rifle. As I read the posts I can't help but thinking...Dude, you have waaaay toooo much spare time!!

Nicely done. Good luck at the match. More pictures!!
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Old March 07, 2012, 09:12   #60
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This thread is truly impressive. One by one, the idiosyncrasies of this rifle that could interfere with its' accuracy potential are corrected. I'm getting anxious to see what the rifle will do with these reasoned modifications!
I don't know, some of these things are likely to help but how much?? There is a chapter in Ian Skennertons L1A1 book that goes through numerous attempts by Lithgow to create a more accurate L1A1 and in the end nothing was really adopted.
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Old March 08, 2012, 05:53   #61
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Barrel it's just arrived and it looks very very good.
Profile is 100% correct but under the hand guards where it's somehow heavier.
Gas port is already drilled as well as the pins seats that hold the gas block on the barrel...I will have tough time. Muzzle is treated and step cut. All the measures look correct, but the gas port that is wider then expected. Anyway I'm not concerned about a slightly over-gassed FAL that most likely will shot mild target loads.

The first step is to measure the cartridge OAL that gives Free Bore = 0. This measure will be very useful later when I'll begin to develop the match ammo. My findings for FB=0 are:
SMK 168: 73.45 mm
Lapua Scennar 155: 73.68 mm
Berger 155: 74.42 mm
SMK 165: 73.45 mm



These measures suggest that the barrel has not been reamed with a tight match reamer and I totally approve this choice on a 42 years old semiauto.

The plan for the weekend is:
1) cut the muzzle at 11° and check the FH timing
2) dismantle the old barrel and gas block and install the old gas block on the new barrel
3) Check the timing of the new barrel on the upper and final assembly.
4) Check the headspace.

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Old March 12, 2012, 03:44   #62
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The week-end went very very good and I've installed the new barrel without any bad surprise.

In this process there are quite a lot of things that could effect the potential accuracy that might be interesting to discuss. I will also spend very little words on re-barrelling technique since the excellent "Home Gunsmithing" of Mark "Gunplumber" Graham says it all in detail.
Let me anyway stress the fact that YOU NEED THE RIGHT TOOLS to disassemble some VERY tight parts! Do not begin your work if not properly equipped. Basically you need:
1) the best receiver wrench and barrel vise (I have mine fore sale now. PM welcome)
2) A very long lever to turn the wrench
3) A 5 kg hammer.

Having said that, let's come back to accuracy.
I've first removed from the old barrel the gas block and it's conical pin. They are pretty difficult to be removed since the pin has been most likely installed with a hydraulic press and the gas block heated and then put in place.
This means a lot of stress on a quite thin barrel and it's not really a good thing. Have you noticed that the best AR15 have the front sight base epoxy glued and secured with two little screws?
So my gas block has been reamed to the same barrel OD at the gas post so that it can put in place (with some difficulty) by hand. Make a check then Loctite it in position. It's mandatory to FIRST align the gas port with the gas block. A 2.5 mm pin is very useful. Keep it in place till the gas bock has been finally secured to the barrel.
Then drive a pin driver through the hand guards screw hole to keep barrel/gas block/gas port securely aligned and install a coiled spring pin (SPIROL). This is the same technique that SIG uses to secure the SIG 550/551 gas block to their barrel. If it's fine for SIG thenit's OK for me too.



The gas block is now secured in position without too much stress on the barrel. Will this increase the accuracy? May be not, but it definitely won't harm it.

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Old March 12, 2012, 09:02   #63
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As soon the gas block has been installed I've airbrushed the barrel with GunKote flat black. It's a very good product that has provided long lasting results on my AR stainless steel barrels.

Like on my other match rifles I've cut the muzzle at 11°. Bench rest guys swear this the most efficient crow in term accuracy. I don't know weather is true or not but my direct experience wit AR seems to suggest that. Brownells has an excellent cutter no. 080-586-750. Do not forget the brass pilot that keeps the cutter aligned with the bore and make a check when installed to see if cutter and pilot are co-axial. It's very important.



Cutting the muzzle is very easy. Just keel the barrel vertical, keep pilot and cutter well lubricated and rotate the cutter applying moderate pressure. Keep the cell OFF and take your time.



Not bad uh?

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Old March 12, 2012, 09:31   #64
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It's time to think about the flash hider, one of the most distinctive part of our L1A1.

You can start a flaming war among competitive shooters asking weather or not a muzzle device will effect the accuracy. My personal experience suggest that installing a FH will significantly chance the point of impact of the same barrel but the group size doesn't look to be effected. I also consider shooting a FAL without it muzzle device an esthetic crime. However it's worth to take a close look at our FH.

I've found out that the bore of my FH was not perfectly coaxial with its thread. Considering that the gases leave the muzzle faster there the ball, this could be a problem for my quest for accuracy.
I decided to ream the bore of the FH true on the barrel thread and made the bore larger then the original. This should allow the gases to expand evenly inside the flash hider without disturbing so much the ball leaving the barrel.


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Old March 12, 2012, 13:15   #65
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Excellent Thread Paolo. May I ask at what distances you are going to be shooting? Youre spot on reworking the FH, M1A shooter here have NM mods done on them. I have one for my supermatch, but due to state gun laws I cant install it. I have to use a muzzle brake which affects the accuracy, I dont think it affects mine any, not an Uber shooter yet lol. I think they also open up the slots allowing, in the M1A FH more gases to escape vertically to hlp with the muzzle climb. Also what is the configuration of your barrel, groves and twists? Yeah lots of question sorry.

Cheers Im really going to be watching your thread
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Old March 12, 2012, 19:19   #66
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paolo, it's getting very interesting. Could you show me a picture of the coil spring that secures the gas block?

How do you get it under the gas block pin?

Thanks.
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Old March 13, 2012, 07:38   #67
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Ciao 4th.
We shoot to a International High Power Targer C1 at 300 m. It's a 6 grooves, 1/12", pretty standard.

BC, the pins are called Coiled Spring Pins, made by spirol.com

Since they are a kind of elastic fitting, they do not need close tollerance seat, they wont' get loose and won't overstress the joint like a conical pin does.

Here is a very good example. Two Spirol pins secure the gas block of my little Sig551
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Old March 13, 2012, 11:43   #68
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paolo, do you still cut a groove on the barrel for the spirol pin? Or just drive the pin through?
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Old March 13, 2012, 12:02   #69
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Hmm...interesting variation on a roll pin!
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Old March 13, 2012, 12:30   #70
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Quote:
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paolo, do you still cut a groove on the barrel for the spirol pin? Or just drive the pin through?
Sorry I didn't caught the point before.
The original pin seat machined in the gas block and the groove on the original barrel have been reamed conical and coiled springs do not work very well. The groove in the new barrel looked cylindrical.
Eventually I drilled the groove on the new barrel + gas block at the largest diameter of the original pin hole on the gas block.
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Old March 14, 2012, 03:49   #71
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As I wrote before I'm not going to spend much comments on the barrel installation, but there are a couple of things that are worth to consider.

I would strongly suggest to install the barrel with a looooong lever



It might look funny but it works very well especially in setting the proper alignment of the front sight with upper receiver. About this I've found very very handy to replace the front sight with an old USGI cleaning rod threaded to be installed in the front sight base (you should see that in the photo above). Then it's very easy to presisely align it with a 90°square put on the upper.

I've then checked the headspace and I was so lucky to find that it was GO + 0.02 mm without any further modification. However if you need to disassemble the bolt shoulder consider a king size hammer (a very heavy one) and a large pin pounch with a kind of pilot pin machined on its tip.



The final assembly of the full rifle is a piece of cake and it takes 20 mins. I will go soon to our Firearms Testing Facility for overpressure tests and for final marking of the new barrel as required by our law.

Stay tuned.


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Old March 14, 2012, 09:55   #72
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Paolo,
Earlier in this thread you describe how you modified your FAL rear sight to remove any looseness. There are other FAL factory rear sights that you could use, if they are OK with your rules of competition for military rifles. Here is a photo of two FAL Venezuelan rear sights. They have a spring loaded locking lever at the bottom of the sight which lock the diopter wheel. Could this be used in your competition?





Best Regards,
Slo cat

PS: I will be visiting Torino, Italy next year for the World Masters Games. Right in your back yard.
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Old March 15, 2012, 04:40   #73
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Wow Slo Cat, that's a real sight! Thank you for sharing here.

Unfortunately they are not allowed. Basically when you introduce your gun to the match director for inspection, in case of doubt, you have to supply all the papers, articles, books, photos supporting the evidence that your specific rifle, in that specific configuration from muzzle to stock has been adopted by an armed force around the world.

Congratulation for the WMG!! That's an achievement!

The new barrel positively passed the overpressure test and received the Italian markings. I would like to thank very much the guys of LUXDEFTEC for the superb job done.



Time to think of reloading and testing... it's only one month left from the first match

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Old March 15, 2012, 10:55   #74
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really good read, looking forward to the rest.
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Old March 16, 2012, 09:48   #75
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Once again I’m very late. The first match of the season will be held in Colle Val d’Elsa (Tuscany) on April 20th and so far Billabong didn’t yet shoot one single round. The next couple of week-end will be critical to verify its performance in terms of reliability and accuracy.

Give the tight timing I will try to concentrate in few shooting sessions the fundamental steps (break-in, gas valve calibration, load development…) that usually are requested to develop trust and confidence with your new gun. A process that can easily take 500 rounds.

My regular handload technique consists in testing from 6 to 10 different recipes of ball/powder combination. I do not want to spend many words about the art of reloading, talking about the potential benefits of ball brand XXX or power YYY, simply because every gun has its own taste and you have to find what your guns likes the most. Let me stress the point: Every Single Gun Has Its Own Taste.

My wishing list for a match reload might sound weird and not very much scientific, but it really works fine for me. The list is:
1) It must be safe, successfully tested on similar gun, shot in large quantity in winter and in summer,
2) It must cycle my gun flawlessly because I can’t bring on the fireline spares ammo and a jam will push me immediately at the end of the scoreboard.
3) The components must be ready available and easy to find,
4) If the points above are met, then it would be nice if it shoot well…but the first three points remain fundamental.

Having said that, considering that I do not have the time to develop 10 different types of rounds, I’ll be focused on just 4 recipes that I know worked well on Billabong last year, they are:

SMK 168, VV N135 41,0gr
SMK 168, IMR 4064 41,0gr
SMK 150, VV N135 41,0gr
SMK 150, IMR 4064 41,0gr

All of them in a Lapua brass, CCI BR large rife, max OAL for magazine feeding -0.50 mm as a safety margin. These loads are a mix of relatively light and heavy balls, speed range should be quite wide too so Billabong should show which is its favourite flavour.
Again, this is a very rough test, but I have no time for a better investigation.

The plan for the first 20 rounds during next week-end is functional test and gas valve calibration, basic zero at 300 meters and barrel break-in.


PS: a friend just told me that my Aussie should like a Vegemite sandwich


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Old March 18, 2012, 04:21   #76
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OK the first 20 rounds have been shot successfully. The bolt consistently locks open with gas valve set at 6 (just mid of its travel) so I set that at 5 for extra peace of mind.
I made a preliminary zero at 50 meter trying to obtain a POI about 9 cm above the POA (equivalent of shooting at 300 meter with a 6 o'clock hold) and then at 300m. Unfortunately I've found out that I have to shorten the front sight post since right now at 300 m the POI is equal to the POA. Not a bid problem.

I was curious to see the muzzle after 20 rounds and I was pretty happy to find this.



Even deep inside the FH, the gases left a symmetric print on the muzzle (not very evident in my photo) suggesting that they expanded evenly as the ball left the barrel.

An important item after a major rebuilding like this to check is the locking surface on the bolt. I've previously marked this surface with a blue felt pen.



Recoil force looks well distributed on all the surface and I can't see any "hot spot".
For extra safety I've also checked the headspace again finding no problems.

Shells look very clean, just like in a bolt action, and the action is still very well lubricated. Fouling in the chamber is negligible



Very low fouling has remained segregated in the gas block, around the gas plug and piston head. This is a tribute to the designers of our FAL that made a VERY RELIABLE system capable to perform well from the African bush to the Arctic Circle.

The surplus new steel magazine (www.amsmilitaria.com in Belgium) worked flawlessly.

All these checks and tests are important because before everything else you need to have blind trust in your rifle and never have the concern it might fail under pressure. Do not underestimate this point in your quest to the X Ring.

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Old March 18, 2012, 09:44   #77
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Looking pretty good, Paolo. I dont know if Billabong will enjoy a Vegemite sandwich, but if you run out of cosmoline you can use it, I think its the same stuff
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Old March 19, 2012, 08:22   #78
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Paolo

This is a really interesting thread!

You may be interested to know there were a batch of L1A1's brought into the UK by Anglo Custom Rifle around a year ago, our problem here that they can only be single shot - no semi auto allowed here

The rifles were supplied by LuxDefTec, and ours have Lothar Walther match barrels the same as yours too - I suspect yours will be more accurate than mine though with all the other mods!

You may recall I have a Hythe rear sight on mine, and I got a spare front sight blade and ground it down by about a half in thickness.

Here it is with a couple of its pals:









I have since converted it to wood:









The only decent set of wood I could get at the time was Aussie, but it is a Brit L1A1, so I guess I ought to call it BillaBrit

I've now got a Brit walnut stock and PG and will put them on soon, and have sanded and oiled the handguards
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Old March 24, 2012, 03:20   #79
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BillaBrit !

Do you feed the round by hand or from the magazine? I guess that the gas port is not drilled...well, at least you have a very nice FAL.

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Old March 24, 2012, 13:48   #80
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I would like now to spend few words about my strategy to test my reloads. As I’ve already said I’ll test 4 reloads only for Billa, but I think that you might find useful some more details about my technique.

The basic idea is to make the process cost/time effective and gain good statistics to think about.

On a regular basis, when time is available, I make a selection of 6 or 8 loads that I know they work well in terms of :
1) safety (pressure not exceeding SAAMI/CIP norms)
2) reliability (they make the rifle cycle flawlessly)
3) their ingredients are easy to find (I wish I had one powder working fine with all my guns!)
4) they have provided encouraging results in terms of precision on similar rifle.

For every recipe I load 10 rounds with same shell and same primers and I set up a special paper target. Let’s say that you are testing 6 recipes, then you need on your paper 6 targets to aim to. Every reload will be shot to it’s own target.

I then go to the shooting range, shoot a couple of rounds at the testing distance (it’s the distance where I want to optimize tour reload) just to remove the oil from the barrel and warm myself up and I begin the survey.
To reduce the variables I shoot with at least10x glass, prone, with front AND a rear support (typically a small sock full of sand or rice), no alcohol, no smoke, possibly not even beautiful girls around…
I take all the time and I shoot only 5 rounds for each of the 6 reloads. Do not worry if the POI is not exactly the POA, it really doesn’t matter right now and DO NOT adjust your scope while shooting. Just pierce your paper trying to achieve the best groups you can holding the same POA.
You will have now 30 holes in 6 group, all of them have been shot at about the same environmental condition. Mark them with a pen.

Now shoot the last 5 rounds of each load, to their specific target, retrieve the target, collect the spent cases, clean your shooting booth and come back home with 6 groups that should look something like this: 2 groups of 5 round or one cumulative group of 10 rounds.



For reference only, this is the test for my 5.56 SAM-R

This is the basic of your analysis.

Tomorrow a little bit of math.

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Old March 25, 2012, 09:45   #81
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Good morning everybody.

I’m sure that it has happened to you that a friend approaches you saying “look, I shot a group of xyz rounds in 2.2 inches” or whatever suggesting a good performance.
A sentence like that actually means nothing more then “hey, I think that I shot very well today”. Why? Because saying that you shot your rounds inside 2.2 inches tell you that your TWO WORST shoots are 2.2 inches apart, but it says nothing about your group!

In the statistic language the distance between the two most distant holes is called Maximum Spread and it useless for your Quest of the Best Load. Unfortunately, at least here in Italy, it’s the most widely term misused to talk about accuracy.

An example, courtesly by Molon of AR15.com, will make the things very clear. Here are two groups with just the same Max Spread of 2.1”:

Guess who won the match?

Even worst, quite a lot of magazines show the group of a gun under review saying “ discharging those two fliers, we shot a spectacular group of 3 rounds in 0.25MOA”. I find this kind of sentence very irritating because we all know that in real life, in combat, during a match, in training... every round counts and make the difference and we can not discharge the shots that we do not like.

Lucky enough there is another powerful tool that have been the military and industry standard for over a century to evaluate the potential accuracy of the system gun/ammo/shooter, the Mean Radius.
It consists in calculating first the center of the group and then calculate the average distance from the center of the group of all the rounds shot. A mean radius of 3 cm means that you could expect ON THE AVERAGE that your bullet will pierce the target at 3 cm away from the center of the group made by all the balls you shot. Some of them could hit the center, some might hit farer away, but on the average they will stay 3 cm (the radius) from the center of the group.

The Mean Radius of a group makes sense ONLY in the group is made by a significant large number of round to weight or it won’t work. Hey it would be like having your feet in an oven and your head in a refrigerator and saying that your mean temperature is just ok.
So how large should be the number of holes? In literature most say 10 rounds, more the better.

Unfortunately calculating the center of group and MR on 10 rounds per recipe means a lot of tedious calculations, but there are some software that really make your life much easier. My favourite in OnTarget (http://ontargetshooting.com/) 100% free.
Just make a photo of your target, input distance, bullet calibre and calibrate the photo and it will calculate everything for you. It’s a very smart tool to process your groups very quickly.

Now that the math is over let’s go back to the 6 groups shot before. For every load you need to calculate the MR of the first 5 rounds,



the MR of the second 5 rounds



and the total MR of the full 10 rounds group.



Report now the data collected on a table. I like this one


It’s now time for decision. Out of 6 loads I discharge those with the highest total MR (in this example the loads 5 and 6). The survived loads will be tested again with the same procedure and the 2 worst load will be discharged again.

You might ask why I shoot group of 5 rounds if at the end of the day I evaluate the RM of the full 10 round group. Well, the second group of 5 round has been shot from a barrel hotter then the first 5 round. This would suggest any POI drift as the barrel get hot that it’s always a good thing to know.
Also if a load has a poor performance in term of 10 round MR, but it happens to have a very good 5 round MR, I will give it a second chance.

At the end of the process your table should look like this



Make the average of the all the MR of the best loads tested and you will have your winner.

Last edited by paolo.orange; February 19, 2016 at 05:23.
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Old March 25, 2012, 15:29   #82
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BillaBrit !

Do you feed the round by hand or from the magazine? I guess that the gas port is not drilled...well, at least you have a very nice FAL.
BillaBrit and his friends magazine feed, using the cocking lever to cock/load/unload.

Yes you are right, the barrels do not have a gas port drilled
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Old April 03, 2012, 05:12   #83
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I had a small surgery and I couldn't train or develop any load. I have to revise my plans. NM are close....
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Old April 06, 2012, 13:53   #84
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I finally had the chance to make a very basic test of the four reloads that are supposed to make sense.
I didn't have time so eventually I've decided to shot 10 rounds per each reload in 2 not consecutive group of 5.
The statistic population is too limited to provide good information, also the shooting distance today (145 meters) is not the actual match distance (300m), but as I already told you I simply have no time. This procedure is far to be the best, but at least I should have a recipe performing decently.

Anyway these are my findings:

SMK 168, N135 41.0gr : mean radius 0.68 MOA
SMK 150, IMR4064 41,0gr : 0.68 MOA
SMK 168, IMR 4064 41,0 gr: 0.96 MOA
and the winner
SMK 150, N 135 41,0: 0.49 MOA

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Old April 06, 2012, 22:59   #85
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Good luck with your NM!
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Old April 13, 2012, 14:05   #86
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Nice shootin'!
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Old April 13, 2012, 16:49   #87
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At 150+ yards! That is some good shooting Paolo. Buona fortuna!
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Old April 13, 2012, 18:49   #88
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Is the high one the last round from the mag?
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Old April 15, 2012, 09:59   #89
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I have no idea, I remember that I've called a shot as a bad one but can't remember if it was the last.

I shot yesterday with the receivers tight, I mean, VERY tight and the results have been discouraging. A total disaster! I thought it was me not in a good mood (my KTM has been stolen) but then I shot a very good 191/200 with the AR.
I do not have time to investigate further just before the NM the effects of receiver tightness, but I've decided to come back to the initial configuration (with safety sear and receivers tight enough to make it work).

I found out that the round post fails to deliver (to my eye) a good sight picture if the weather is cloudy. It's fine if it's sunny, buy it's definitely not so good during a gray day. Also, the short post doesn't help me a lot too.

I built another sight, square, with the longest post I could file.


A dedicated tool to install and adjust it is very handy and easy to built.


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Old April 15, 2012, 21:27   #90
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It's common for the last round in the mag to be a flier so if the high shot was the last round in the mag you did exceptionally well!
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Old April 23, 2012, 07:34   #91
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So we went to the first NM in Colle Val D’Elsa in Tuscany, one of the most charming places in Italy. If it happens to come here, plan to spend some time there, you won’t regret.

The weather was really bad with a lot of wind (I mean a lot!), light changed every minute and nobody really did well. Billa finished fifth, but I’m not happy at all because we really shot bad. I couldn’t almost call my shots. Back at home I’ve found that there is still a little bit of side play between the receivers at the rear joint, but not enough to explain our bad performance.

The good thing is that I won group five with my AR and scored fourth in group 9 with a SAM-R clone I've built this year.

Back to Billabong, I’m very confused. Given the same reload (SMK150, N135 41,0 gr), the facts are:
A) It has demonstrated to shoot pretty well at 150m, with 10x scope
B) Tightening hard the pivot screw didn’t provide any significant advantage and it does NOT reduce side play at the rear joint where it matter the most.
C) The square post provided a much better sight picture (at least to my eye) even with marginal weather conditions.
D) I’ve never experience the “last round in the mag syndrome” but I followed Msnyder’s suggestion and never run the mag empty during the match.

What do you guys think?

Point A) looks like suggesting that receivers fit is less then ideal.

At least I had a lot of lessons learnt to write on my shooting book...

Last edited by paolo.orange; February 19, 2016 at 05:28.
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Old April 23, 2012, 08:18   #92
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How about that.

A FAL that likes to throw a shot low left, or lay down a vertically-strung group.

Never seen that happen.

Love the Italian WECSOG in this thread.
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Old April 26, 2012, 07:42   #93
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If you plan on keeping the rifle and want to improve it further, you might want to consider making up a temporary means of securing the upper receiver from lateral movement to determine if that is the cause of that deviation. As to the vertical stringing, there are the influences of the gas piston assembly on the barrel and the attachment of the handguards to the barrel. One means of counteracting these influences would be a barrel with a larger diameter out to the area where the gas block is installed. There should be no influence on the movement by the rifles' action as it does not come into play until the bullet passes the gas tap. It would be the dynamic of the bullet passing through the barrel.
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Old April 27, 2012, 04:05   #94
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I agree that lateral/vertical movements at the rear end of the upper need to be addressed anyway. Tightening the pivot screw has been misleading since it made the receivers looking tight, but they were not!
If the rear upper doesn't properly fit the lower, then it's like having a floppy rear sight.

With the best WECSOG spirit I'm making plans for the weekend. I don't know if they will work, but I'll make you laugh....

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Old April 27, 2012, 08:29   #95
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this is a great thread
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Old April 27, 2012, 10:36   #96
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This might help >> http://www.dsarms.com/Short-Belgian-...ductinfo/110F/

Tightened up my groups pretty good.
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Old April 27, 2012, 10:51   #97
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Mods. how about a sticky on this one - it details meticulous match prep on a FAL and is a great resource for reference.

Thanks.
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Old May 01, 2012, 09:59   #98
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The best strategy I was able to plan to eliminate the rear upper play is a laser/epoxy bedding.

I was not able to surely identify the spot were the upper gets in touch with the lower at its rear end so I welded a 0.3 mm thick metal strip on the left side of the lower.

I couldn't close the receivers anymore so that is surely the place I need to work to achieve minimum lateral play.
With a file first and a stone later it's not difficult to find the correct thickness that allows you to close the receivers. Just take your time.


To fix any vertical play I put a thin layer of bi-component epoxy resin on the bottom of the "locking hook well" (I do not know how I should call it).

I left it cure and the following morning I found this:

Not bad uh?
I removed a little bit of the cured resin from behind the print of the locking hook because I do not want that the epoxy to handle any recoil forces. The resin I used , Devcon 10110, is a very good product that provided very long lasting results on my other rifles, but this application looks a little bit border line.
The welded steel strip might look redundant, but without it I couldn't make an accurate bedding.

At the present I can not measure any residual play in this area. I do not expect any terrific improvement of the accuracy, but removing this plays won't make things any worst.

Firing test soon.

Last edited by paolo.orange; February 19, 2016 at 05:39.
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Old May 01, 2012, 10:37   #99
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Good to see the process continue.
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Old May 01, 2012, 10:59   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paolo.orange View Post
The best strategy I was able to plan to eliminate the rear upper play is a laser/epoxy bedding.


Firing test soon.
The epoxy will shrink when it cures. I'd recommend that you skim coat a thin layer of epoxy on top of what you've got and re-bed the receiver. Clean the existing epoxy with water, to remove the amine blush, before prepping the surface with acetone and applying more epoxy.

Good luck,

Omar
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