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Old April 09, 2006, 23:18   #1
W.E.G.
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FAL gas knob settings

maximum gas setting





medium gas setting





lowest gas setting

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Old April 09, 2006, 23:19   #2
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You can see that the more of the gas vent you expose, the less gas is sent to the gas piston to cycle the rifle.

Conversely, the more of the gas vent you cover, the more gas is sent to the gas piston to cycle the rifle.

Quite simple.
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Old May 29, 2006, 11:35   #3
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Excellent! Makes a lot more sense now. Pretty cool that you can adjust this to prevent wear and tear on the rifle.
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Old June 10, 2006, 20:13   #4
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It's probably not news to most members, but if your FAL has not had the bolt hold open feature disabled, you can use it to adjust the gas system.

Basically you need to fire the rifle with a single round in the magazine starting with the port fully open and close it incrementally after each shot until the bolt is held open. Fire several more shots to ensure it does it reliably and if not close the port another click.
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Old June 10, 2006, 20:27   #5
J. Armstrong
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I know that is SOP but I prefer to start closed, and then open until I get a failure to hold open, then back a couple of clicks. Why ? Because if you start with the reg open, you will immediately get a failure to eject ( maybe even a failure to extract ) which means the fired and expanded case gets rammed back into the chamber, whereupon you will be executing a WECSOG pogo, and will do so repeatedly until you get enough gas to fully eject. I prefer not to have to bash the rifle against the ground unnecessarily, myself
The above is the procedure you use on a Commonwealth pattern ( inch ) rifle without the bho anyway.
Just MHO
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Old June 10, 2006, 22:20   #6
Dakota FAL
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I'm not sure what you are shooting, but the worst I've ever had is a stove pipe and/or a dent in the neck of the case. I'd prefer to beat up a few cases than beat the rifle with excess gas until I get a failure to fully cycle the bolt.

I've never had a problem with the bolt ramming the case back into the chamber and if it did, it isn't going to stick unless rifle and or ammunition is very dirty. Just a suggestion, but if the case does end up back in the chamber, unfold the little thingy on the side and try pulling the bolt back before you start slamming the butt on the ground.
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Old June 11, 2006, 13:21   #7
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Dakota - well, if you've not had it happen, good for you. When it does, you will understand the fallacy of the rest of your statement. Ahnold himself will not be able to pull back the "little thingy" ( FN seems to refer to it as a "cocking handle" - imagine that ! ) by hand and it has no bearing whatsoever with cleanliness.

BTW, although I am a huge believer in minimizing unnecessary wear on a rifle, ( one reason I usually use buffers, controversial though that is ) I dare say a couple or three rounds with the gas reg closed full is hardly going to wear the finish on the recoil plate, and will most assuredly not harm the rifle in the slightest. I repeat, this is the common procedure for inch rifles without a last shot BHO.

I should probably clarify the a properly executed pogo really doesn't require "bashing" as such, but I still prefer ro avoid 'em when possible.
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Last edited by J. Armstrong; June 11, 2006 at 13:31.
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Old August 05, 2006, 19:06   #8
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Take Armstrongs' advice if you're new to this game.

It's no fun taking a $1000 rifle and slamming the butt on the ground whilst you hold the charging handle knob with a death grip.

aNother thing I've found out: If you get the rifle where it has barely just enough gas to operate, keep in mind that it will probably fail to cycle if it's not fired from the shoulder or even if you get too relaxed, the system just won't have enough energy to push the carrier far enough to the rear. Fire the rifle from your hip (Rambo style) with the butt against nothing and make sure it still works.
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Old January 20, 2008, 19:47   #9
Chief351
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Quote:
Originally posted by J. Armstrong
I know that is SOP but I prefer to start closed, and then open until I get a failure to hold open, then back a couple of clicks. Why ? Because if you start with the reg open, you will immediately get a failure to eject ( maybe even a failure to extract ) which means the fired and expanded case gets rammed back into the chamber, whereupon you will be executing a WECSOG pogo, and will do so repeatedly until you get enough gas to fully eject. I prefer not to have to bash the rifle against the ground unnecessarily, myself
The above is the procedure you use on a Commonwealth pattern ( inch ) rifle without the bho anyway.
Just MHO
Rather than start with the gas fully open, I start at about a '6' or even a 5-1/2. I've never had one lock back at that setting, but I always get a clean eject. Also, I then only have to expend two or three more rounds until I get the setting tuned in.

My current setting on my FAL is a '5'.
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Old January 20, 2008, 21:05   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chief351


Rather than start with the gas fully open, I start at about a '6' or even a 5-1/2. I've never had one lock back at that setting, but I always get a clean eject. Also, I then only have to expend two or three more rounds until I get the setting tuned in.

My current setting on my FAL is a '5'.
I'v had a few that didn't eject at one of the "middle" settings, but generally you are right, and doing so eliminates working down from 10 to 5 .

I still prefer starting from fully closed, however. JMHO, YMMV !!
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Old May 03, 2008, 23:57   #11
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My FAL is an older metric model with the numbers on the regulator, I started at the 7 which is all the way open on mine and it is set on the 2.
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Old March 13, 2009, 23:59   #12
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As far as clearing jammed cases.I used to take out the mag,put the butt of the rifle on the ground while holding the foregrip.place my closest foot on the charging handle knob,and kickstart the thing loose.Always worked,never seemed to brother the weapon.Just be sure to take out the mag.
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Old March 14, 2009, 00:12   #13
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The boot method risks excessive force on the knob and possible shearing of the parts.

Just hold the rifle a few inches above the ground and use your HAND to apply REASONABLE force to the knob at the moment you "thump" the butt on the ground. I've never seen a FAL with a seized casing fail to clear using this method.

The FAL is NOT an M14. Go ahead and use the boot method if you must on the M14. I don't think you'll shear the op rod. The FAL is different. You really CAN break that knob with your boot.
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Old March 14, 2009, 08:06   #14
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Good point,although there wasnt any breakage from the times I pulled it off.But you make a great point.Thanks for explaning the correct technique.
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Old December 10, 2017, 06:48   #15
swiss_bob
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ĹWhen this happens for us it is at the range, i push the cocking handle up against the bench and lean against the butt of the FALO, a little leaning pressure and the spent case is ejected with no brute force. I have however found that often this is not needed (usually when firing prone and i can't be bothered to get up, old bones and all that!) Then i work the bolt as much as i can (maybe a 1cm or so, probably just the unlock distance) a few times and usually the case comes loose and extracts.

Firing German mil surplus with some corroded cases.

Cheers

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Old April 29, 2018, 23:56   #16
gf113
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Could someone reupload the pics? For my regulator should I screw it on all the way to the gas block, or should it be one rotation less? With it being one rotation less the "1" setting looks like its completely blocking the hole. I took my first fal out this past saturday and it was running good at 2.5-3(out of the 7 numbers), which I think to to high?
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