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Old February 10, 2019, 11:34   #1
yovinny
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Do you Bone ?

Any good tips for boning ?

How do you like to do it,,Wet or dry, Fast or slow, Hard or soft, dressed or not ?

I dont seem to be having much luck,,,,or does it just take a really, really, really long time to achieve the desired final result
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Old February 10, 2019, 11:46   #2
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Old February 10, 2019, 12:44   #3
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You have to have a good tool to get the best results.
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Old February 10, 2019, 15:26   #4
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I think Ive got a pretty good rigid tool,,,,and it performed great and tightened most of it right up the first time around,,,, it just hasent produced much of anything better with each successive boning since.
I oil it up good, wipe it down, let it dry a few weeks and then bone the hell out of it.
I just cant seem to tighten up some spots and Im wondering if I should maybe change something up ?

I have one that was boned by a pro with lots of experience and its completely tight everywhere and just slick as snot,,,but sadly he's long gone so I cant ask for any specific advice...
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Old February 10, 2019, 15:35   #5
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A good boning is as much technique and experience as it is having the right tool. They work hand in hand.
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Old February 10, 2019, 15:56   #6
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Ive read old timers actually used a piece of beef bone,,, and common among military guys to use a spoon from the mess hall....
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Old February 10, 2019, 19:08   #7
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Not sure Im thinking the same kind of boning, but some of the advice seems applicable regardless of interpretation.
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Old February 10, 2019, 19:21   #8
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I bone whenever I can, when my wife allows.
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Old February 10, 2019, 21:07   #9
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Used to be a ham boner.
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Old February 11, 2019, 00:21   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lobogunholsters
Boning must be done while the leather retains a small amount of moisture, necessary to continue forming, but will not be retained by the leather when there is too much moisture remaining. The piece will typically feel cool to the touch but not really wet or damp at this desired stage.
Found this note on moisture content that I thought was applicatored. Althought it isnt about the bone in use, or the motion in the ocean, it does cover the not to wet, not too dry aspect of the art.

Eta: he said nuthin bout no oil, so better stick to h2o, lest ya make things too slippery and end up getting no joy.
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Old February 11, 2019, 06:57   #11
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Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey View Post
Found this note on moisture content that I thought was applicatored. Althought it isnt about the bone in use, or the motion in the ocean, it does cover the not to wet, not too dry aspect of the art.

Eta: he said nuthin bout no oil, so better stick to h2o, lest ya make things too slippery and end up getting no joy.
Kind of..
They also use the term boning for forming leather holsters and its almost the same thing as when used in reference to wood stocked firearms.

Basically a burnishing of the surface with something hard to tighten and close the grain and add a polished by use and well handled quality to it.

With all the old timers here that claim to have gone through basic training with flint locks and such,,,,Im kind of surprised at the responses, or lack there of, so far,,,
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Old February 11, 2019, 07:11   #12
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A experienced man can do good work with a 6 inch boner.

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Old February 11, 2019, 12:34   #13
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Well, according to the CMP forums, boning or spooning is done after the wood stock has reached the BLO or wood oil saturation point. After letting the stock dry for several days, a bone (any hard smooth object) was carefully rubbed against the wood to achieve the desired finish. No oil was added during the process because it tended to reverse the effect of boning (closes versus opening the wood pores). I tried boning a long time ago on a Model of 1917 stock that I had stripped using CitriStrip. I found it gave a nice wood finish, but was work extensive. Being lazy, I just rubbed the stock with a finishing pad from 3M and applied another coat of Tung Oil. Repeated until I was happy with the finish.

Burnishing uses a tough cloth, such as denim, to apply the last coat of finish to achieve a smooth shiny surface. Frenching or padding is used when applying shellac to wood to give an extremely smoothed and highly polished surface.
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Old February 11, 2019, 13:25   #14
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Apparently, I need to bone up on my leather working and wood working, let alone the butchering.

This must've been after Dylan introduced them to the reefer.

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Old February 11, 2019, 14:44   #15
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Seriously...what are we talking about here?
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Old February 11, 2019, 14:46   #16
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OK, you perverts...here is what we are talking about:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIj5joZst2o
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Old February 11, 2019, 17:05   #17
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Somehow I suspect Melty was tweaking us, not asking about leatherwork. Of course, leather sometimes goes well with a good boner.
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Old February 11, 2019, 17:21   #18
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Somehow I suspect Melty was tweaking us, not asking about leatherwork. Of course, leather sometimes goes well with a good boner.
Not me. I was clueless as well
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Old February 11, 2019, 20:30   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tac-40 View Post
Well, according to the CMP forums, boning or spooning is done after the wood stock has reached the BLO or wood oil saturation point. After letting the stock dry for several days, a bone (any hard smooth object) was carefully rubbed against the wood to achieve the desired finish. No oil was added during the process because it tended to reverse the effect of boning (closes versus opening the wood pores). I tried boning a long time ago on a Model of 1917 stock that I had stripped using CitriStrip. I found it gave a nice wood finish, but was work extensive. Being lazy, I just rubbed the stock with a finishing pad from 3M and applied another coat of Tung Oil. Repeated until I was happy with the finish.

Burnishing uses a tough cloth, such as denim, to apply the last coat of finish to achieve a smooth shiny surface. Frenching or padding is used when applying shellac to wood to give an extremely smoothed and highly polished surface.
Its hard to discribe the difference, but Tru oi and most other finishes sit 'on' the surface of the stock, while oiled and boned stocks have a finish thats 'in' the wood.
A well boned stock shows no open grain and the surface is smooth as glass, without looking like it has any finish, especially that plastic or varnished look.

I have an oiled and boned 1903 done by a guy I knew many years ago who retired out of the DC old guard,,the stock is just like their parade rifles and the stock looks like a piece of satin glass.
It took 2 years of asking, about 6 months of waiting and a case of ammo to get that one.
I also have a garand done years ago by my uncle thats damn near as nice and much better than I seem to be able to duplicate no matter what I try....
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Old February 11, 2019, 22:45   #20
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Oops, I didnt realize this thread was about stroking well oiled wood. My bad...

Edit to add: the spooning threw me off
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Old February 12, 2019, 00:06   #21
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Much better to spoon after boning.
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Old February 16, 2019, 19:02   #22
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...apparently we don't have any baseball players on this forum?

Boning is a common practice for wood baseball bats.
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