What is the best Cold Blue?

[johnmac]

I am attempting to rivet on a charging bridge on an 1916 Enfield No1 Mk111*. It will need some touch up bluing afterwards.

I have no experience with cold blue. Every company says theirs is best.

What does the most wise membership say?

Thanks for the help!

[Hot Diggity]

Cold blue. Best? In my experience there is no best cold blue, there's just varying degrees of disappointment and a lingering rotten egg smell that NEVER
goes away.

It's a shame stove black (painting) isn't correct for the vintage.

HD

[FNfreak]

A touch of actetone and no more cold "Blue" (nice trick before you buy something if you want to know if it has been ground on or scratched up) .....try to rust blue your part or Dicropan "IM" from brownells. Both give a NICE deep "Blue" that is PERMANENT and dark. Both can be done on your stove top with with excellent results.

[Herr Walther]

Same for the Belgian Blue. I've had very good results using it.

[saltshaker]

I have some experience in the cold bluing world.... I have found the the typical cold bluing that is found at Wally world is "okay" for a walk in trade piece at the monthly gun show.... I would never count on the treatment for a keeper.
That said, the suggestions above are much better for the cold bluing/ warm bluing treatment.....
If you really want a finish on a keeper that will last but are not concerned about the appearance I will suggest browning..... And a good gun grease.
After all it is all a thin layer of rust......
Others may comment that have much more experience.....and I welcome the opportunity to learn from they're experience.....
I am always willing to learn from the wisdom herein......as we all should.
Unless you get into the politics forum then I say yrmv.....

[JasonB]

Brownells Oxpho Blue works fairly well, but Birchwood Casey Super Blue does about the same and can often be had without having to order it.

[Thomas]

Never put cold blue on with a q-tip. They have oil in them.
Use clean paper towel, small piece, or other clean material.
Heat metal gently with a propane torch, just to warm it.
Heat, apply and repeat.
Then oil.

[Surly]

you may as well use a felt tip marker. You can get set up to parkerize for under $100.

[johnmac]

Ended up a buddy had some Oxpho. It worked very easily and seems to be OK.

Immediately got the metal oiled up good though.

[garyd1961]

You should try Vann's Instant Gun Blue. If you do the prep right it works really good.

[V guy]

Cold bluing aint paint. Acetone will not take it off.
Acetone lifts most cheap paints.

Blue is an acid based process that transfers an oxide coating to the ferrous metal.
It works best on warmed, cleaned components.
The part's prior heat treatment will affect the color.

Oxpho blue from Brownells is great stuff.
I actually have submerged small parts in a small cup of the stuff, to get a great blue-black color on screws, bands, etc.

[drmetzger]

I have had great success with Pilkington's Solution and Art's Belgian Blue. Both are fairly easy to use but prep work is essential. Even coats are also important.

Vann's has a great reputation though I have not used it I have seen some pieces that have been treated with it and am very impressed.

Cold bluing is a very nice finish if done properly and is arguably as tough or tougher than hot bluing from my understanding and experience.

[evan price]

Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.

Works best if you put the cleaned, degreased, de-oiled part in an oven at about 250 for long enough that the Oxpho-blue sizzles when it touches the metal.

When I chop down shotgun barrels I use the propane torch to heat up the muzzle before I hit it with the Oxpho-blue.

Then you need to oil the blued part well and let it soak in. Again, warm parts open the pores of the metal to receive the oil better.

[JasonB]

Originally Posted by evan price

Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.

Works best if you put the cleaned, degreased, de-oiled part in an oven at about 250 for long enough that the Oxpho-blue sizzles when it touches the metal.

When I chop down shotgun barrels I use the propane torch to heat up the muzzle before I hit it with the Oxpho-blue.

Then you need to oil the blued part well and let it soak in. Again, warm parts open the pores of the metal to receive the oil better.

Been my experience too, but you don't even have to get that anal on the degreasing bit & prep which is handy for those of us who don't have the cash to replace front night sights every few months when the edges wear through to the white since the element won't hold up to hot refinishing processes.

Birchwood Casey Super Blue shares that trait and seems about as good. For all I know it may be "as good" considering how much stuff gets made in bulk and re-branded/re-packagaed.

[jdmcomp]

For touch up as you need I second the use of Vann's. I find that you have to use repeated (4-6) applications, and warn the metal before applying. Never warm more then you can hold in your hand, it just is not necessary and can bring out oil from other parts. Work slowly and finish with an application or two using 4/0000 steel wool to apply and match the edges. Rub gently, you are putting it on not taking it off. When it looks good in bright sunlight (not indoor light) then oil well and wipe down. Coat with a good microcrystalline wax such as Renaissance Wax.

[Mebsuta]

Originally Posted by Hot Diggity

Cold blue. Best? In my experience there is no best cold blue.

That's what I think now. They can look pretty good when you first put them on if you work at it. After a while, if you're lucky, they will turn kind of thin gray. If you're unlucky, they start to look yellow.

Used it on stuff that I considered junk in the past. Now wished I had not, but that's like 20 years of hindsight.

If I wanted to get more, I would use Brownells Oxpho Blue, but not the cream. I've had liquid and the cream stuff, and threw the cream away. Brownells has the best marketing shtick.

[K. Funk]

Van's works for me for small parts when some blue is better than in the white.

krf