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Old May 14, 2019, 23:28   #1
Icer
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Say hello to a new 'woo owner with ?'s...

So I'm the proud new owner of a couple of Daewoo's. Because one is none...
The first is an I. A. Co. import K-2 with a 1 in 7" twist barrel.



The second is a Kimber import DR-200 with a 1 in 12" twist barrel.



The folder the previous owner installed on it was way too long for my T-Rex arms so I decided to throw some money at Josh over at Stormwerkz and get one of his Type 2 DR-200 stock adapters.
While I was there I had to pick up a couple of 90 degree selectors and a low profile scope mount for the K-2.
Here's what they look like now...


The K-2 is now sporting an Aimpoint T-1 and a Geissele SSP trigger.

The DR-200 has a Magpul STR stock on it and it feels, looks, and balances much better.

My main question revolves around getting rid of that horrible abomination on the end of the DR-200's barrel.
My plan is to cut the barrel to 16" and throw a Gemtech bi-lock flash hider on it so I can run it suppressed.
But because the rifle is so much shorter with the Magpul STR collapsible stock on it, I'm considering going even shorter...14.5" maybe.
Anyone know someone who has cut a Daewoo barrel this short and still had a reliable cycling rifle? I'm mildly worried about dwell time but I figure with a suppressor and an adjustable gas system I'm not going to have any problems.
Both rifles currently cycle perfectly with the gas set to S, the smallest setting.

Thanks for taking the time to look at my new rifles and drop any advice you can think of for a new Daewoo owner!
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Old May 15, 2019, 07:34   #2
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Nice collection you have. I dig the Robinson too! I have the rifle version and love it. Sorry, but I don't know the answers to your questions. Just wanted to say congrats on getting 2 of them! I hope to add a K1A to my pile if a deal presents itself.
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Old May 15, 2019, 07:42   #3
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Quote;
"Thanks for taking the time to look at my new rifles and drop any advice you can think of for a new Daewoo owner!"

Yeah, break the seals on them Whiskeys!
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Old May 15, 2019, 15:33   #4
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Here's how you do it - I HAVE DONE AT LEAST THREE (3)

You need to trust yourself - and your ability to hold the tool steady,

I used a Dewalt power tool (hand held grinder) with a 5" metal cuttoff wheel. It helps if the power tool's safety guard is taken off and the entire cuttoff wheel exposed. This is delicate surgery and you need to see the blade. Again be careful and trust yourself.

1. You should wrap gorilla tape around the barrel at the point immediate behind the "THING" - this is to protect the barrel in case your hand slips.

2. You need to make a long lateral cut with the cuttoff wheel - starting at the tip and going progressively back along the entire length of the "THING". Go slow and take your time. Keep these cuts STRAIGHT

3. Flip the rifle and make a 2nd lateral cut with the cuttoff wheel - starting at the tip and going progressively back along the entire length of the "THING" Again go slow and take your time.

So the two cuts should be basically 180 degrees opposite one another.

You can start making the cuts at the tip of the BELL deep - and ultimately you want to go all the way through - as far back as you can WITHOUT touching the tip of the barrel (which you can see).

The cuts along the length of the "THING" will be shallow at first and then slowly - along the entire length of BOTH sides - progressively deeper. Eventually you will begin to see the thread pattern (of the threads INSIDE the "THING" develop (be exposed - as you make these lateral cuts). When you see the thread pattern clearly (on both sides of the barrel - in the long lateral cuts that you've made) - STOP

You need to make sure the lateral cuts are deep enough - with the thread pattern on the barrel just barely visible - and with the cuts on the end of the "THING's" BELL - completely through (on both sides)

Put the rifle down on its side with the "THING" resting on a piece of wood - and then take a COLD CHISEL and insert it on the "through" and "through" cut that you made on the tip of the "THING" (make sure the chisel is lined up with the open through and through cuts of the BELL and not the barrel. Give the chisel a good wack with a 2 lb hammer.

If you have done the cuts right the "THING" will pop open like a pistachio shell - your barrel will be exposed and the threads will be intact and you will see where the blind pin was (the underside of the "THING" and barrel.

You can then use any AR 15 muzzle device that you want on it. You will have and aesthetic issue with AR15 devices as the shoulder/threads on the barrel of the Woo is longer than that on a US AR - but you can figure that out
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Old May 15, 2019, 17:09   #5
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you can do the same thing with a hacksaw and be safer, i used a torch and and a pipe wrench
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Old May 16, 2019, 01:33   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ServiceRifle View Post
Here's how you do it - I HAVE DONE AT LEAST THREE (3)

You need to trust yourself - and your ability to hold the tool steady,

I used a Dewalt power tool (hand held grinder) with a 5" metal cuttoff wheel. It helps if the power tool's safety guard is taken off and the entire cuttoff wheel exposed. This is delicate surgery and you need to see the blade. Again be careful and trust yourself.

1. You should wrap gorilla tape around the barrel at the point immediate behind the "THING" - this is to protect the barrel in case your hand slips.

2. You need to make a long lateral cut with the cuttoff wheel - starting at the tip and going progressively back along the entire length of the "THING". Go slow and take your time. Keep these cuts STRAIGHT

3. Flip the rifle and make a 2nd lateral cut with the cuttoff wheel - starting at the tip and going progressively back along the entire length of the "THING" Again go slow and take your time.

So the two cuts should be basically 180 degrees opposite one another.

You can start making the cuts at the tip of the BELL deep - and ultimately you want to go all the way through - as far back as you can WITHOUT touching the tip of the barrel (which you can see).

The cuts along the length of the "THING" will be shallow at first and then slowly - along the entire length of BOTH sides - progressively deeper. Eventually you will begin to see the thread pattern (of the threads INSIDE the "THING" develop (be exposed - as you make these lateral cuts). When you see the thread pattern clearly (on both sides of the barrel - in the long lateral cuts that you've made) - STOP

You need to make sure the lateral cuts are deep enough - with the thread pattern on the barrel just barely visible - and with the cuts on the end of the "THING's" BELL - completely through (on both sides)

Put the rifle down on its side with the "THING" resting on a piece of wood - and then take a COLD CHISEL and insert it on the "through" and "through" cut that you made on the tip of the "THING" (make sure the chisel is lined up with the open through and through cuts of the BELL and not the barrel. Give the chisel a good wack with a 2 lb hammer.

If you have done the cuts right the "THING" will pop open like a pistachio shell - your barrel will be exposed and the threads will be intact and you will see where the blind pin was (the underside of the "THING" and barrel.

You can then use any AR 15 muzzle device that you want on it. You will have and aesthetic issue with AR15 devices as the shoulder/threads on the barrel of the Woo is longer than that on a US AR - but you can figure that out
Wow ServiceRifle! Thanks for the detailed instructions.
Sounds like it takes a very steady hand.
I think I'm leaning more towards shortening the barrel rather than leaving it the stock length. I'm thinking if I chop it at 16 1/8", or e-file and pay my $200 to get it down to 14 1/2" it will look better with the collapsible stock and be handier when wearing a suppressor.
If I left it at 18" then I'd find myself wanting to throw a bayonet on it...and that opens up a whole 'nother can of worms. Short barrels can't run bayonet's anyway so I won't mind the neutered front sight/gas block nearly as much as I would with a stock length barrel. I'm a collector of pre '89 rifles and I can't stand leaving anything with post ban features.
Any idea which gunsmith has experience chopping, crowning, and threading Daewoo's? Since removing the pressed and pinned barrel is not recommended the right lathe setup is essential, and I need someone who can do it concentric to the bore so I don't end up with baffle/endcap strikes.
Thanks for any recommendations you can provide.
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Old May 16, 2019, 01:36   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAINER View Post
Quote;
"Thanks for taking the time to look at my new rifles and drop any advice you can think of for a new Daewoo owner!"

Yeah, break the seals on them Whiskeys!
It was a good couple of days of gun buying and whiskey hunting!
Both are great hobbies, but lately bourbon hunting is getting nearly as challenging as pre '89 rifle hunting.
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Old May 16, 2019, 01:46   #8
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Originally Posted by JoeCorrado View Post
Nice collection you have. I dig the Robinson too! I have the rifle version and love it. Sorry, but I don't know the answers to your questions. Just wanted to say congrats on getting 2 of them! I hope to add a K1A to my pile if a deal presents itself.
Hey JoeC!
How has the accuracy been with your Robinson? I've read some pretty harsh reviews of the quick detach barrel design and my experience with it the first time I took it out was certainly disappointing.
2 1/2"-3" groups at 50 yards with quality loads including 69 gr SMK's isn't going to cut it for me.
Unfortunately in order to get the windage on target I also had to drift the front sight all the way to the right...it's on now but it isn't great to look at.
I was definitely impressed with the low recoil and generally great ergonomics.
Probably one of the softest recoiling 5.56mm rifles I own.
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Old May 16, 2019, 01:50   #9
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Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
you can do the same thing with a hacksaw and be safer, i used a torch and and a pipe wrench
Does the torch and pipe wrench technique still work if there's a blind pin involved as ServiceRifle mentioned in his post?
Any problems with overheating the barrel or are there tricks to avoid that?
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Old May 16, 2019, 11:21   #10
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the Woo don't come from Korea with a blind pin
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GOOD MORNING, WELCOME TO THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
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"Some minds are like concrete, thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.”

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AMERICA! Designed by geniuses. Now run by idiots.

"The Marines I have seen around the world have the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen." Thank God for the United States Marine Corps!"
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Old May 18, 2019, 00:54   #11
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Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
the Woo don't come from Korea with a blind pin
Good to hear!
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Old May 19, 2019, 22:22   #12
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Strange that the dr200 has a 1:12. That is usually just on early k2's. Mind a pic of the left side of the upper at the rear sight.
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Old May 20, 2019, 14:45   #13
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listen to Stoney, use a hacksaw. i only did one cut at the top, then used a chisel to pry open the cut.
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Old May 20, 2019, 18:05   #14
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the threads are to long for a A2 FH, i spun on a die and cut off about 3/16", and re-crowned it.
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The Gunny RIP

GOOD MORNING, WELCOME TO THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Press "1" for English.
Press "2" to disconnect until you have learned to speak English.

"Some minds are like concrete, thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.”

Has freedom been replaced with Free-Dumb.

Illegitimi non carborundum

A 1911A1 is like a Glock, except it's for grownups.

AMERICA! Designed by geniuses. Now run by idiots.

"The Marines I have seen around the world have the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen." Thank God for the United States Marine Corps!"
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Old Viking saying: Never be more then two steps from your weapon

Flying is a hard way to earn an easy living.
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Old May 20, 2019, 21:05   #15
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Sweet, but I wanna know more aBout that FAL
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Old May 21, 2019, 18:29   #16
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the threads are to long for a A2 FH, i spun on a die and cut off about 3/16", and re-crowned it.
He is correct. Stock thread job is longer than std AR threading. You can use a locking/ timing nut behind your device.... what the factory did.
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Old May 21, 2019, 21:50   #17
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Hey JoeC!
How has the accuracy been with your Robinson? I've read some pretty harsh reviews of the quick detach barrel design and my experience with it the first time I took it out was certainly disappointing.
2 1/2"-3" groups at 50 yards with quality loads including 69 gr SMK's isn't going to cut it for me.
Unfortunately in order to get the windage on target I also had to drift the front sight all the way to the right...it's on now but it isn't great to look at.
I was definitely impressed with the low recoil and generally great ergonomics.
Probably one of the softest recoiling 5.56mm rifles I own.
Admittedly, I haven't sighted mine in just yet. I took it to the range to confirm function and that was it. I hope to bring it back out sometime soon. Definitely has a very light recoil. I brought my Daewoo and Arsenal SLR104FR at the same time and I think the SLR had the most felt recoil. That was a year ago so I could be mistaken.
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Old May 22, 2019, 11:17   #18
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Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
you can do the same thing with a hacksaw and be safer, i used a torch and and a pipe wrench
I also used a torch and a pipe wrench.

MAPP gas, not propane. Propane will not get it hot enough. Cheerry red, then pop it off with the pipe wrench.
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Old May 22, 2019, 21:50   #19
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Originally Posted by Tad_07 View Post
Strange that the dr200 has a 1:12. That is usually just on early k2's. Mind a pic of the left side of the upper at the rear sight.
Just got back from a short vacation and spent part of the day messing with the Daewoo's.
Confirmed the twist on both rifles using a marked cleaning rod and tight patches...approximately 1/7" for the K-2 and 1/12" for the DR-200.
Took the pic you requested as well. Here's a link...
https://imgur.com/gallery/SmWDzRh
I've decided I really like the DR-200 with the Magpul STR on it, so I dropped in a Geissele SSA-E to lighten and smooth up the trigger.
I've also decided I'm definitely going to cut and re-thread the barrel to 16".
Heating the barrel up with a MAPP torch or grinding and splitting the muzzle attachment both hold no interest for me. Neither does having to use a nut to cover up the extra threads Daewoo saw fit to machine on the end of the barrel.
Having the barrel chopped, crowned, and threaded to 16" will balance out the shorter Magpul stock and make for a very handy rifle while still providing enough dwell time to run the bolt reliably. A 16" barrel will also balance better than an 18" when a suppressor is hung on the end.
Anyone know of any other cool mods owners have done to their Daewoo's?
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Old May 22, 2019, 22:07   #20
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Originally Posted by Near Sighted Sniper View Post
Sweet, but I wanna know more aBout that FAL
Just your run of the mill Imbel/STG-58 build with matching parts and geared receiver.
Oh...it's got some pretty nice wood also.
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