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Old March 19, 2017, 09:29   #1
Bogie
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Ruger Super Redhawk Kaboom

Had a pretty bad kaboom with reloads in my 44 mag Ruger Super Redhawk this morning. Thank God it's build like a tank and took it. My wrist hurts like hell, but at least I didn't end up with a face full of shrapnel.

I'm not sure what happened. I've been reloading for years and am extremely careful, but this felt like a double charge. Stuck the cylinder tight and I had to pound it open with the handle of a screwdriver. Once I got it to open the primer fell out on the shooting bench.

Could a loose primer pocket and blast blowing out the primer feel like a double charge?

Having said all that, here's my question for the experts out there. The case is really, really stuck in the cylinder. I've tried with a screw driver to pound it out, but it's not budging, and I'm afraid it I pound too hard I'll separate the case head from the body and be really screwed. Any suggestions on how to get that out? Liquid wrench or something like that? Please advise.

P.S. Kaboom is not the right word in this case. I only use it euphemistically, so please don't scold me.

Last edited by Bogie; March 19, 2017 at 09:30. Reason: edit
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Old March 19, 2017, 10:29   #2
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You can try Kroil and let it sit for a while. Wonder if a stuck case remover for reloading dies may work?

I'm going to take a swab and guess you used Blue Dot Powder?
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Old March 19, 2017, 10:36   #3
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I would use a wood dowel. Say 3/8". Using a screwdriver is just going to make it easier to rip the head. Can you separate the cylinder from the gun? If so may just want to put it in the oven then quench the case to see if it will shrink while the steel is still hot.
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Old March 19, 2017, 11:37   #4
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I don't have any Kroil but I'll try some lubricant I have hanging around, let it set, and then use a wood dowel to try and pound it out as suggested. If that doesn't work I'll try heating with a torch and quenching. Thanks for the advise!

I think I figured out what happened. Using 240 gr copper plated bullets with Acc#5 powder. Recipe calls for 12.7 gr of Acc#5. I've unloaded a half dozen or so of this batch of bullets and the powder is weighing at about 22.7 grains. Apparently, I had the 10 grains setting set at 20 instead of 10, so instead of 12.7 gr it was 22.7 gr. Almost a double load. Ouch!

That's what happens when the lighting isn't that good and you have old eyes. Won't happen again!
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Old March 19, 2017, 12:48   #5
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If your cylinder is damaged, contact Ruger and see if they'll sell you a new one. I'm sure they'd be delighted to know that their product protected you from harm.
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Old March 19, 2017, 16:49   #6
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Maybe try some how to chill the casing to get it to shrink a bit. Glad you are OK. Might want to have Ruger check it out to make sure it is OK.

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Old March 19, 2017, 19:27   #7
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Contact Ruger immediately tomorrow and do not shoot it until they tell you it's ok. You basically proof tested the weapon beyond normal proof loads.

Glad you are ok!!
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Old March 19, 2017, 19:36   #8
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is the gun ok?
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Old March 19, 2017, 20:30   #9
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What Powder --What Bullet-- What primer >??? Most Important WHAT CHARGE WEIGHT !!!

H-110/296 Im Guessing ?????
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Old March 19, 2017, 20:42   #10
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What Powder --What Bullet-- What primer >??? Most Important WHAT CHARGE WEIGHT !!!

H-110/296 Im Guessing ?????
Post #4







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Old March 19, 2017, 21:02   #11
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OK --Thanks tdb59

I had a situation just yesterday with my 41MAG Using 296,,, Hornidy book calls for 18Gr with 210 bullet and I did not Know Hodgdon load is 19.5 -22 Gr,, Hodgdons older book says Never reduce charge by more than 3%
Seems My Low charge was shoving the bullet into the forcing cone where it finally ignited the rest of the charge and it acted like an Obstructed Bore with Major Pressure excursions and flat primers.very dangerous ! after jacking charges to 21.5 gr all is well except My wrist

Also Must have heavy crimps on 357-41 and 44 Mag bullets !!
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Old March 19, 2017, 23:10   #12
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Contact Ruger immediately tomorrow and do not shoot it until they tell you it's ok. You basically proof tested the weapon beyond normal proof loads.

Glad you are ok!!
I second this! My guess is they may want you to send it to them so they can look at it. Who knows they may even warranty the gun just so they can destroy it so it doesn't become a legal liability to them.

Glad to hear your ok.
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Old March 20, 2017, 06:55   #13
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Get some bore cleaner that has ammonia in it and fill that chamber and let it sit for a few days. Hopefully, the ammonia solvent will seep down between the case and chamber and slightly dissolve some of the brass so it loses its grip.
Ruger will not send a new cylinder. You will have to send the gun to them for evaluation or repair.
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Old March 20, 2017, 07:23   #14
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is the gun ok?
It seems ok, but I won't know if it functions properly until I'm able to get that stuck case out. It shoved the case rearward and is sticking out about 1/16 inch.... Just enough so I can't rotate the cylinder into the locked in position. As previously mentioned, I had to pound it with the handle of my screwdriver to get it open.

Once I get the case out, and if it dry fires and functions properly, I should still send it to Ruger for inspection???
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Old March 20, 2017, 08:49   #15
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i would not use that cylinder after something that stupid. get a new one & use the old one as a paper weight.
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Old March 20, 2017, 09:02   #16
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Once I get the case out, and if it dry fires and functions properly, I should still send it to Ruger for inspection???

YES!!!
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Old March 20, 2017, 09:55   #17
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YES!!!
I was afraid you'd say that. I suppose you're right, though. It's just a pain in the butt and I was hoping to avoid the hassle.
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Old March 20, 2017, 10:16   #18
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I'd be sure to let Ruger know exactly what happened and be up front and honest with them.
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Old March 20, 2017, 10:24   #19
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From Ruger website.

Question: Does Ruger recommend reloading ammunition?
Answer: No. Death, serious injury, and damage can result from improper ammunition; bore obstructions, powder overloads, or incorrect cartridge components. Even the strongest gun can be blown up by excess pressure. Only use correct ammunition loaded to U.S. Industry Standards. Always wear shooting glasses and hearing protectors. Improper ammunition destroys guns. We specifically disclaim responsibility for any damage or injury whatsoever occurring in connection with, or as a result of, the use in any Ruger® firearms of faulty, or non-standard, or 'remanufactured' or hand-loaded (reloaded) ammunition, or of cartridges other than those for which the firearm was originally chambered.

the last sentence sums it up nicely.😇
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Old March 20, 2017, 10:29   #20
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We specifically disclaim responsibility for any damage or injury whatsoever occurring in connection with, or as a result of, the use in any Ruger® firearms of faulty, or non-standard, or 'remanufactured' or hand-loaded (reloaded) ammunition, or of cartridges other than those for which the firearm was originally chambered.

the last sentence sums it up nicely.😇
In other words, if it's inspected and deemed out of spec in some way due to the overcharge, they will likely fix it for the OP but *might* charge him for the service.
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Old March 20, 2017, 10:44   #21
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From Ruger website.

Question: Does Ruger recommend reloading ammunition?
Answer: No. Death, serious injury, and damage can result from improper ammunition; bore obstructions, powder overloads, or incorrect cartridge components. Even the strongest gun can be blown up by excess pressure. Only use correct ammunition loaded to U.S. Industry Standards. Always wear shooting glasses and hearing protectors. Improper ammunition destroys guns. We specifically disclaim responsibility for any damage or injury whatsoever occurring in connection with, or as a result of, the use in any Ruger® firearms of faulty, or non-standard, or 'remanufactured' or hand-loaded (reloaded) ammunition, or of cartridges other than those for which the firearm was originally chambered.

the last sentence sums it up nicely.��
Thanks, but you're really just stating the obvious. Everyone knows that. Or is this your way of saying "I told you so!"

P.S. This is why I'm reluctant to even bother sending it back to Ruger for inspection. I think the answer will be that the revolver is ruined, no matter what.

Last edited by Bogie; March 20, 2017 at 12:00. Reason: typo; PS
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Old March 20, 2017, 16:29   #22
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Thanks, but you're really just stating the obvious. Everyone knows that. Or is this your way of saying "I told you so!"

P.S. This is why I'm reluctant to even bother sending it back to Ruger for inspection. I think the answer will be that the revolver is ruined, no matter what.
And you have exactly what to lose otherwise???

I bet Ruger knows how people use/abuse their revolvers, they know people buy them just because they are impossibly strong and beefy, they know that people reload for their revolvers. And they have every reason to promote all those qualities in their revolvers. Just my guess but I can imagine them doing just about anything short of a new serial number to have you singing their praises.

Oh yeah, of course they shy away from reloading officially, they have a lawyer on staff.

YMMV
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Old March 20, 2017, 20:09   #23
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Well Bogie, Glad you are OK, chances are your Red Hawk is Too.

Any Kaaboom that leaves you intact has to be a Win. Best Regards.
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Old March 20, 2017, 22:29   #24
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I doubt the revolver is ruined beyond the cylinder.
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Old March 20, 2017, 23:03   #25
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I was afraid you'd say that. I suppose you're right, though. It's just a pain in the butt and I was hoping to avoid the hassle.
You only get *one*. Don't press your luck. This could've been a hell of a lot worse.

Honestly man, I don't think I'd use this revolver again until I got it inspected by an expert - or Ruger. If they charge you a couple hundred bucks for inspection and repair, so what? That's almost free compared to having a surgeon repair your hand or corneas. It's also a lot less than buying a new Super Redhawk. I'd highly encourage you to bite the bullet get somebody to inspect it and replace any parts needing to be replaced. It doesn't make sense to chance your (or unwittingly anyone else's) safety. Play it safe!
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Old March 21, 2017, 03:10   #26
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No, no... .you're all right. I need to get someone to look at it besides me, even if it still functions properly. That cylinder could be ruined. Thanks for all the kind words.
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Old March 21, 2017, 06:54   #27
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Note to self (and anybody reading this): this is exactly why it is good practice to pick a powder/charge that will obviously spill out of the case if seriously overcharged.
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Old March 21, 2017, 07:22   #28
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I had exactly the same thing happen loading .44-40 for my brand new Uberti.
First shot was the last shot as the cylinder was blown to pieces and the top strap of the frame looked like a pissed off cat. Instead of nine grains of Unique I had loaded 19, scale was on ten then I added 9 more. I pay a lot more respect for my scale settings now. Yep, I was in a hurry, never again.
Chances are your revolver is toast due to frame stretching but maybe not. Ruger can tell you if it is good or trash. The cylinder is trash, I would never trust it. Once you have a revolver grenade in your hand things change. I was very very lucky and was not hurt but it could have been very different. I was alone in my backyard and I could hear the cylinder pieces sing out off into the distance when they parted company. If someone was standing near to the side they might have been killed, like at a public range.
Thank God you are OK.
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Old March 21, 2017, 07:48   #29
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Ruger may or may not condemn your revolver. A member of my club recently had a reloading mishap with his Ruger No. 1 rifle in .223. One of his reloads blew out the extractor and turned the forend into splinters. He sent it back to Ruger and they replaced everything no charge. We all told the guy to pull the bullets on that batch of reloads but he swore up, down and sideways that the reloads were fine. He bought a new CZ bolt action rifle in the same caliber to shoot while the Ruger was being repaired. First shot in that one using the same batch of ammo sheared the bolts lugs, launched the extractor, and magazine and splintered the stock severely. CZ was not so accommodating as Ruger and gave him $100 off towards a new rifle. He still swears there is no problem with his reloads.
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Old March 21, 2017, 07:55   #30
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While I am still thinking about this to heat your cylinder with a torch will destroy the temper and ruin it turning it soft so don't ever do that.

Never have a fluorescent light near your beam scale, the light puts off a magnetic field and will change the value and not read correctly. I learned this early on years ago. Test it yourself by turning one on near your scale, it will freak you out.

Maybe time to move up into the twentyfirst century and use a digital scale. I should have done this years ago. Once zeroed it tells you what you have in the pan.
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Last edited by Sagerider; March 21, 2017 at 13:12.
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Old March 21, 2017, 11:51   #31
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Penetrating lube followed by a little chunk of dry ice in the case?

But I would not use a wooden dowel, I would use a brass punch of the correct diameter.
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Old March 21, 2017, 12:06   #32
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So, if you send it to Ruger, and they say itsfucked, and they refuse to return it to you (which they will if itsfucked), do you really want it back?

Separately, let me guess. A progressive press was involved in this disaster? Do you really load so much .44 Magnum that using a progressive is a good idea? If you had used a tray to drop charges, you could have eyeballed them, and known right away something was wrong. Yeah, I'm scolding.

The only way I would ever run a progressive press is if I were loading SO MUCH of a particular load, that I could justify setting up the press for just that one caliber and that one load, and leaving it set.

I've been loading for thirty years now. Had some fuckups. Large and small.
Mostly small.
That loading tray has save my ass several times.
I'd rather save my ass (and load good ammo), than save a little time.
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Old March 21, 2017, 12:11   #33
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Just take a punch and knock it out. If the case head comes off, it is no big deal to collapse the case into itself with a sharp tool and it will fall right out.
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Old March 21, 2017, 16:58   #34
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Note to self (and anybody reading this): this is exactly why it is good practice to pick a powder/charge that will obviously spill out of the case if seriously overcharged.
I've thought the same thing for years, and this is the only load for 4 pistol and 8 rifle rounds that I reload for that I could possibly double charge and still be able to seat the bullet. It's a combination of the large case volume of the 44 mag, the copper plated bullets, and the powder. It's a good argument to not use copper plated bullets for the 44 mag. The copper platted bullet loads are a lot lighter than a jacketed bullet load, much more comfortable to shoot, and easier on the revolver, but after this episode, I may abandon copper plated bullets in the 44 mag. All the powders suitable for the copper plated bullets leave enough room in the case that you can easily double charge them and still seat the bullet.
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Old March 21, 2017, 17:07   #35
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So, if you send it to Ruger, and they say itsfucked, and they refuse to return it to you (which they will if itsfucked), do you really want it back?

Separately, let me guess. A progressive press was involved in this disaster? Do you really load so much .44 Magnum that using a progressive is a good idea? If you had used a tray to drop charges, you could have eyeballed them, and known right away something was wrong. Yeah, I'm scolding.

The only way I would ever run a progressive press is if I were loading SO MUCH of a particular load, that I could justify setting up the press for just that one caliber and that one load, and leaving it set.

I've been loading for thirty years now. Had some fuckups. Large and small.
Mostly small.
That loading tray has save my ass several times.
I'd rather save my ass (and load good ammo), than save a little time.
Actually, it was a single stage press and since I had the damn scale set incorrectly all the charges look the same and you would think everything is cool until you trip off the first round. The scale readings face away from the light on my reloading bench and with it dim like that I thought it was on 10 when it was on 20 gr.

You're right. If they say it's ruined, I sure as heck am not going to want it back to shoot...... Well, it would make a nice $800 paper weight :-)

Last edited by Bogie; March 21, 2017 at 17:14. Reason: P.S.
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Old March 21, 2017, 17:09   #36
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Just take a punch and knock it out. If the case head comes off, it is no big deal to collapse the case into itself with a sharp tool and it will fall right out.
I figured as much, but thought I'd mar the inside of the chamber wall. Guess I shouldn't worry about that much since the cylinder is likely toast, anyway. I hit it with LSA and have been letting it soak in the last couple of days. I'm going to try and get it out tonight.
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Old March 21, 2017, 17:26   #37
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I figured as much, but thought I'd mar the inside of the chamber wall. Guess I shouldn't worry about that much since the cylinder is likely toast, anyway. I hit it with LSA and have been letting it soak in the last couple of days. I'm going to try and get it out tonight.
A quick trick might be to take a can of compressed air, turn it upside down, hose down the case just until it freezes then tap it out with a wooden dowel! It certainly won't hurt the temper of cylinder.

YMMV
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Old March 21, 2017, 17:29   #38
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Other than black powder, I don't know of any pistol powder that comes close to filling the case when you go with the big-bore class.

Glad you weren't seriously hurt.

That revolver might soldier-on, but the cylinder would be suspect in my book if it took a full double-charge. I bet its bulged. Which means its no good anymore. That only leaves the frame as possibly salvagable.

In the future, maybe cut a wood dowel, and mark it with a sharpie. Drop a charge, and stick the dowel in the charged case. Use the mark as a quick-check to be sure the powder level is not way-off when you start throwing charges.
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Old March 21, 2017, 17:35   #39
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I figured as much, but thought I'd mar the inside of the chamber wall. Guess I shouldn't worry about that much since the cylinder is likely toast, anyway. I hit it with LSA and have been letting it soak in the last couple of days. I'm going to try and get it out tonight.
Don't bother if you are sending it in. The lab guys at Ruger will enjoy the challenge.

I hope you can start understanding the implications of what you've done to that revolver. You have exceeded PROOF PRESSURE!! Google images will help you see what happens to the human hand when a revolver comes apart. DONT risk it.

That's my two cents anyway. Of course, I use both of my hands everyday to good affect.
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Old March 21, 2017, 17:54   #40
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Ok. Got the case out. Cylinder wouldn't close. Looked like the cylinder had been pushed rearward, so I took a hammer and tapped it back forward. Cylinder closes normally, revolver cycles fine, timing appears to be good. Maybe I got lucky with the copper plated bullet load. They're a lot weaker than jacketed bullet loads. The kick and blast seemed about 50% harder than a full up factory load. Maybe the gun isn't trashed. I'm hopeful. I'll send it to Ruger for inspection.
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Old March 21, 2017, 18:09   #41
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you could always sell it. 😳then buy another😱
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Old March 21, 2017, 19:02   #42
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Originally Posted by W.E.G. View Post
Other than black powder, I don't know of any pistol powder that comes close to filling the case when you go with the big-bore class.
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Old March 21, 2017, 22:43   #43
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a double charge of H-110 /296 =or=4227 would overflow the case on a 357 -41 - 44 mag

as to the revolver--Why not take it to a Gun Smith and have him gauge the cylinder /frame ??
Ill Bet a beer Its still usable -! I hope I win for your sake !
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Old March 21, 2017, 22:53   #44
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Good reason to use a digital scale, and check your loads occasionally.
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Old March 22, 2017, 00:07   #45
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a double charge of H-110 /296 =or=4227 would overflow the case on a 357 -41 - 44 mag

as to the revolver--Why not take it to a Gun Smith and have him gauge the cylinder /frame ??
Ill Bet a beer Its still usable -! I hope I win for your sake !
I think that's what I'll do. Everything appears to be fine with the naked eye. I'd bet a beer it's still useable, too, but I'm going to get it checked out by a professional before I chance shooting it again.
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Old March 22, 2017, 00:08   #46
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Good reason to use a digital scale, and check your loads occasionally.
Yup. Going to invest in one.
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Old March 22, 2017, 10:21   #47
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I have a Uniflow RCBS Powder measure.I bought the Small drum and also the Micrometer adjustment screw assembly ,, and I love it!
What I do is write down in my loading notebook every setting for every powder charge I dump. When I go to load something I set the scales at zero Set the powder charge dispenser at the known number for the charge ,Then I reset the scales to the desired weight I Dump a charge and weigh it IF I have either tool set wrong Im going to have a Large variation one way or the other..Kind of a dual self checking system.
After checking half a dozen throws I know its throwing what I want them I charge the cases In My loading Block and then check each of those with a small penlight that is ever present on my bench,,
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Old March 25, 2017, 09:57   #48
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I bought a digital scale today, so I won't make that mistake again.

I'm getting ready to bring the revolver to my local gunsmith for inspection and am trying to put together some data. According to the Lee reloading manual 13 gr of Acc#5 should produce 37,400 CUP, so mathematically 13/37400=22.7/X , right. (The rounds had 22.7 gr of Acc#5) So, if you solve for X, 22.7 gr of Acc#5 would produce 65,306 CUP, right? (Book say max pressure should not exceed 40,000 CUP). Does this make sense?
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Old March 25, 2017, 10:43   #49
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Not sure why you are taking it to the "local gunsmith" vs. send to Ruger.

If local gunsmith says its OK, you still gonna shoot it?

If local gunsmith says not OK, you think he can repair it?

You already know the cylinder is fooked. You need local gunsmith to tell you that?
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Old March 25, 2017, 11:48   #50
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I figure one experts opinion is as good as another. You know what they say about opinions. Actually, I trust my gunsmith more. I watched him inspect the weapon. Couldn't do that with Ruger. I also believe that a Ruger opinion would not be impartial and unbiased.

He checked for bulges and was not able to detect any. He put dummy rounds in it and cycled it, etc. He said it locked up fine and is ok to shoot.

He said that he doesn't think you can get enough powder in a 44 case to damage a Ruger Super Redhawk, and that his hat would be off to anyone that could blow one up. He also said that had it been a S&W it would have exploded.

Last edited by Bogie; March 25, 2017 at 12:48. Reason: P.S.
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