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Old February 05, 2018, 17:03   #1
meaway
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build not cycling

Got it all together and fired today.

First shot goes bang but...

Bolt carrier goes back about 1/2inch.

Am able to pull trigger again and have a click of firing pin but the fired case won't eject.

Bolt locks up 1/2inch out of battery (open position) takes a good bit of muscle to get shell ejected, had to tear down 2x.

Things I have done.
Tried gas block in both open and close
Tried gas set on each setting from 0 to 11. 2 is where I got the hammer reset.
Rifle is oiled good, it's not dry.
Cussed a few minutes.

Any ideas for next step?
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Old February 05, 2018, 17:40   #2
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What receiver is on it?
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Old February 05, 2018, 18:57   #3
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L1A1 Sporter
Made by IMBEL
Imported by CAI
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Old February 05, 2018, 19:18   #4
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Stuff to try.
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108077
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Old February 05, 2018, 20:03   #5
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Quote:
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Thanks for that. I know it gets old answering the same question over and over.
I spent about 4 years getting parts and putting this together and still don't know what I'm doing.
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Old February 06, 2018, 09:02   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meaway View Post
Got it all together and fired today.

First shot goes bang but...

Bolt carrier goes back about 1/2inch.

Am able to pull trigger again and have a click of firing pin but the fired case won't eject.
If you are getting hammer reset, the bolt is coming back further than 1/2". It is returning to 1/2" OOB.

Quote:
Bolt locks up 1/2inch out of battery (open position) takes a good bit of muscle to get shell ejected, had to tear down 2x.
You are getting partial extraction and then rechambering the expanded case. (Mortar, to remove, not pogo stick)

Quote:
Things I have done.
Tried gas block in both open and close
Tried gas set on each setting from 0 to 11. 2 is where I got the hammer reset.
So with most gas retained, you get best results. Problem is probably gas leakage.

Is it possible the gas tube is not screwed all the way in?

Does the L side of the gas block have a 1 or 2 stamped on it?

How much wiggle is there between gas regulator and gas block?

Pics would help, in case there is something obvious.
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Last edited by gunplumber; February 07, 2018 at 06:06.
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Old February 06, 2018, 19:46   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
If you are getting hammer reset, the bolt is coming back further than 1/2". It is returning to 1/2" OOB.



You are getting partial extraction and then rechambering the expanded case. (Mortar, to remove, not pogo stick)



So with most gas retained, you get best results. Problem is probably gas leakage.

Is it possible the gas tube is not screwed all the way in?

Does the R side of the gas block have a 1 or 2 stamped on it?

How much wiggle is there between gas regulator and gas block?

Pics would help, in case there is something obvious.
Will check gas tube again to see if I have it all the way in.

Gas block has a 1 stamped

I have some wiggle but I'm not sure what is to much.

Will take pics for you what do you need to see.
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Old February 07, 2018, 06:09   #8
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Want to see gas regulator, and end of gas tube (may need to wiggle left or right) through port in block - regulator with it open to 11.

The 1 means the gas port weas already opened from .098 to .106. next step is .110.

Is this a full length barrel?
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Last edited by gunplumber; February 07, 2018 at 06:25.
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Old February 07, 2018, 15:05   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
Want to see gas regulator, and end of gas tube (may need to wiggle left or right) through port in block - regulator with it open to 11.

The 1 means the gas port weas already opened from .098 to .106. next step is .110.

Is this a full length barrel?
Gas regulator


Thru Gas regulator to 11


Barrel is 14.5 inches WITH A BREAK silver solder welded permanently. Total length measured with a dowel down the barrel is 16.5 inches.

Sorry for the huge pics, can't figure out how to resize.
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Old February 07, 2018, 15:28   #10
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Close your gas regulator sleeve till the hole in the top of the gas block is at least halfway covered. Then try it again.
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Old February 07, 2018, 16:52   #11
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it appears your gas tube is partially rotated. If it partially occluding the oval port on the gas block, it is probably also occluding the port within the block.

Remove the round spring clip, withdraw the regulator the rear.
look for a hole tangent to the bottom of the cylinder portion of the gas block. Is there a pin in this hole?
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Old February 07, 2018, 18:30   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
it appears your gas tube is partially rotated. If it partially occluding the oval port on the gas block, it is probably also occluding the port within the block.

Remove the round spring clip, withdraw the regulator the rear.
look for a hole tangent to the bottom of the cylinder portion of the gas block. Is there a pin in this hole?
Yes there is a pin.
I can turn the tube enough so that it isn't visible in the hole.
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Old February 07, 2018, 18:50   #13
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well, that's telling me to drill the port to .110", but I'm really hesitant to say that unless any other possibilities are addressed first.

20.5" barrel?
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Old February 07, 2018, 19:24   #14
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Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
well, that's telling me to drill the port to .110", but I'm really hesitant to say that unless any other possibilities are addressed first.

20.5" barrel?
Barrel I is 16.5" with a break permanently welded with silver solder. Guy I got it from said the barrel was 14.5".

I probably will just get another barrel if I need to drill out the port. I really don't want to have a short barrel attached to the receiver.
Can I heat the silver solder to remove the break or is it truly permanent?
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Old February 07, 2018, 19:33   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meaway View Post
Barrel I is 16.5" with a break permanently welded with silver solder. Guy I got it from said the barrel was 14.5".

I probably will just get another barrel if I need to drill out the port. I really don't want to have a short barrel attached to the receiver.
Can I heat the silver solder to remove the break or is it truly permanent?
That's why I asked earlier on barrel length.

Probably need to replace the barrel.

FALs do not function reliably below 16" with standard gas block location. Not enough distance between gas port and end of barrel. L1A1s are even more finicky on shorter barrels, because they lose more gas with the regulator attachment style (slip on, vs threaded).

If the barrel was still 16", you might be able to open the port to .118 (3mm), but 14.5 is unlikely to run at any gas port size.

ATF standard for silver solder was 1100F, which is a dull red. If you are going to remove it, you probably should pull the barrel first, so you don't find yourself in possession of an unregistered SBR.

FAL/L1A1 flash hiders sleeve the barrel for some distance, so it's possible that you have the legal minimum of 16" underneath. Barrel is measured with a rod down the bore to the closed bolt face.
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Old February 07, 2018, 21:20   #16
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What top cover is on it? Had a dsa top cover on an l1a1 and the clamp/rail thingys were rubbing on the bolt causing a similar issue.
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Old February 07, 2018, 21:52   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
That's why I asked earlier on barrel length.

Probably need to replace the barrel.

FALs do not function reliably below 16" with standard gas block location. Not enough distance between gas port and end of barrel. L1A1s are even more finicky on shorter barrels, because they lose more gas with the regulator attachment style (slip on, vs threaded).

If the barrel was still 16", you might be able to open the port to .118 (3mm), but 14.5 is unlikely to run at any gas port size.

ATF standard for silver solder was 1100F, which is a dull red. If you are going to remove it, you probably should pull the barrel first, so you don't find yourself in possession of an unregistered SBR.

FAL/L1A1 flash hiders sleeve the barrel for some distance, so it's possible that you have the legal minimum of 16" underneath. Barrel is measured with a rod down the bore to the closed bolt face.

Thanks for your help. I'll get another barrel and see what happens. If I don't get it going then expect a package from NC.
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Old February 07, 2018, 21:54   #18
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What top cover is on it? Had a dsa top cover on an l1a1 and the clamp/rail thingys were rubbing on the bolt causing a similar issue.
Just a standard cover. Was eyeballing the ones that have a rail though.
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