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Old February 12, 2018, 13:04   #151
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Soft plates will likely be NIJ 3a which won't stop much of the modern handgun ammo people carry now. Hard plates or semi-rigid are much higher threat rated in general. It's what your goal is. I mix soft armor with rigid plates as feel the need. If on a budget it's best to save your money and be sure you buy armor you want first try rather than buy something you can't tolerate and have to try again. Most of my customers come to me after buying a set of steel plates.
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Old February 13, 2018, 14:08   #152
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In fourth day of checking all batteries in radios, flashlights and other small devices. So far have topped off eleven handi-talkies and now working on refresh cycles for their spare batteries. Have gathered all flashlights from trucks and packs for checking. If batteries don't test above 70% to 80% reserve capacity they go on refresh. If under 70% they see a full charge, refresh or break-in cycle based on their measured voltage and amperage in relation to rated maximum.

So far have almost every device minus a few strays loaded with fresh batteries. This includes remotes for t.v., stereo and other small devices. Picture below shows charged batteries in basket on right and batteries for service in left basket plus two chargers running not counting chargers on other dresser. While have a couple four packs of AA and AAA's in my backpack, truck console, desks at work etc realize really only have enough batteries to swap every device once and unless able to charge as go would be dead in SHTF scenario of needing batteries fast while grid is down and trying to possibly run silent and conserve my big battery stacks.

In the charged basket as of this picture when swapped out this morning is 44 AA's and 48 AAA's. Have an even dozen rechargeable CR 123's which won't keep night vision running long as run lithium batteries most time in night vision as are full voltage for longer through reserve capacity, last 4 times longer than alkaline, 8 times longer run time than nicads and almost half the weight. Some of my more mission critical AA and AAA equipment that keep batteries in for long periods unchecked the lithium have shelf life up to ten years and seldom corrode or rupture. That said on today's list is swing in Batteries Plus and grab another couple dozen or so AAA's, dozen AA's and CR 123 nicads if have that many in stock. Many of my rechargeable nicads carry pre Y2K dates and it won't hurt to have a fresh supply as want enough to swap every single device twice or high use devices several times before have to charge batteries.

Tag another $200 to $300 in batteries on this week's expenses but as get 20 plus years out of them using quality chargers and proper break-in, refresh, multi-cycle discharge/recharge cycles good nicads and good chargers are a bargain. To know batteries buy today will possibly still be in service after I die is a comfort. More in the system and less stress on each cell plus newer nicads have much longer lifespan than those in the past. If you could not buy fresh batteries for say five years how many could keep their flashlights and radios working? If notice in pile are a few AA and AAA battery packs for my handheld radios. Any Icom, Motorola, Kenwood or Yaesu radio can get a AA/AAA battery housing for or battery box that plugs into power port on side of radio gets at least one, usually two so have to take my OEM radio batteries stopping taking a charge into consideration. Inventory exactly how many batteries you need, bet most need well over 100 total and have double that in rechargeables plus keep them maintained. Gotta be prepped for that EMP, grid collapse, SHTF whatever at all times. Don't get caught with dim lights and dead radios.

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Old March 03, 2018, 20:26   #153
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Have had my PM box filling up daily with questions on two topics. AP that will defeat Level 3 rifle plates including ceramic/Kevlar composites and AR 500 steel. Also a few want ammo that will defeat Level 4 rifle plates. My most asked questions continue to be recommendations about body armor. Had to pull three of my daily wear kits apart today as had begun to reek (winter usually get three or four days before wash carrier but now on two to three day cycle as weather warms) and put three kits together so my minimum of five work kits rule, hanging ready for use is not violated.

Here is a kit that I broke down due to funky smell after sweating in sun yseterday in a DEFCON 2 Kit:



Notice pair of Level 2 Goldshield soft panels with standard profile front and wide profile rear that wrap all the way around body so have at least 2" of overlap to protect from oblique angle shots to the side of torso. There are a pair of Protech/Safariland 6"×9" front and rear (rear is flexible, front is rigid) which will stop most any known handgun round stand alone including special threats but want the soft armor behind to disperse the blunt trauma and provide coverage for majority of torso for threats up to 9mm/357 mag.

The Goldshield with Protech Dyneema special threat plates will actually stop this new wave of cheap steel case lead core bullet 7.62×39 but the good old steel core corrosive military ammo shreds it. Thus if using cheap ×39 in your AK for defensive ammo it's not going to deal with decent armor or barriers well. The Goldshield soft panels are carried in a Second Chance carrier with 6"×9" plate pockets front and back. Always wondered why most covert armor has pocket only in front as I worry about being shot in back more than front and a bullet in the spine seems like suck @$$ deal. Panels and plates are wiped down with non ammonia organic peace freak/hippie health food store all purpose/all surface cleaner. Wet a few paper towels, wipe down and sit to side to dry. The carriers are washed in washing machine on delicate setting with warm wash and cold rinse. Use good quality specialty detergent for high dollar outdoor wear like down, Gore-tex, etc then hang dry instead of machine dry or will cut life of carrier by 40%.

Tearing the others down are basically same deal so here is reversing the process and reassembling my stack outs:



Above right is a DEFCON 1 stack out already assembled. It's a narrow front and rear panel with Level 2 soft armor (standard Kevlar layers) with a single flexible 6"×9" Safariland/Protech Special Threat plate in Paca front carrier. There is no plate rear and panels do not overlap so there is about two inches of gap down side of torso to allow body to get better ventilation on hot days or if want to be ultra covert. Stops up to 9mm/357 mag and front plate covers heart and most of lungs stopping all special threat handgun rounds stand alone.

The vest on left (above and below pics) has pair of Saraland Level Level 2 soft armor plates and has dual trauma pockets front and single pocket rear. Gets a rigid 6"×9" Safariland/Protech plate front and same size/brand flexible panel rear over the soft armor. Based on mood and where am planning to be will sometimes stick a Paca 5"×8" soft plate in pocket between Dyneema plate and soft armor for extra ballistic and bunt force trauma. The carrier is made with an extra layer that stops electronic discharge weapons like Tazers and stun guns. The sharp barbs of Tazor leads can zip through soft armor like the needle that's used to sew it together. Of course my Dyneema Trauma Plates stop them as well as edged weapons. Seldom run stab panels in covert armor except DEFCON 3 use for security at church.
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Not going to get too deep into rifle kits except discuss a few plates. Below photos show a Safariland/Protech ceramic/Kevlar composite with very comfortable soft padding in rear which adds a lot of comfort though a tad heavy. Not near as heavy as dot mil Level 3 ceramic panels but not what I classify as lightweight:





Plate on right is a Hardwire/Safariland Level 3+ plate. It is thicker than the Safariland/Protech and has no soft panel to go against body but can add a pad to your carrier if not using soft armor under panels. Have two pair of the Hardwire plates with rectangular for rear as shown in pictures and shooters cut shaped like the Safariland for front. What I like about the Hardwire is best price point in entry level lightweight rifle plates and has 25 year warranty from Safariland from date of issue. Also it can be dropped with no worries about cracking a ceramic level like military plates and lots of others. These are the best high tech plates for the money without going for name brand Dyneema which is thinner, lighter and stronger but gets deep into your wallet.

Now for the best value plate money can buy go to this guy's fleabay auction. Have shot four of his plates and they stop multiple rounds of 7.62 M80 ball and 5.56 M193 ball ammo and don't hardly notice 7.62×39.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Body-Armor-...UAAOxyUylTUGXy

The guy that makes these is a good egg and at $80 each are a lot of plate for the money. A bit heavy but not near as heavy crappy @$$ steel plates and no spalling when take rounds. Have shot one with three rounds of M80 and four rounds of M193 ball without failure but rounds were well spaced. Will suck up five rounds of 7.62 M80 ball without failure as long as don't stack three on top of each other. He is a really nice guy, knowledgeable engineer and hand lays all panels himself. Look back through this thread and can glean more information then PM if have specific questions not covered in posts.

Have covered my DEFCON 1 and 2 covert stacks and upping soft armor or adding stab panels to my DEFCON 2 is what my version of DEFCON 3 is. The hard plates above are the basis of my DEFCON 4 stack outs and then use Dyneema or Level 4 ceramic/Kevlar plates (Level 4 ceramic/Kevlar are HEAVY) in conjunction with Level 3a soft armor and stab panels to build out my DEFCON 5 stack outs.

My DEFCON 5 will stop all handgun rounds including special threats from shoulder to groin in front and down to mid butt rear and to elbow if add shoulder and bicep DAPS. Add helmet with face shield and nape protector, forearm armor, elbow armor, armored knee pads, shin guards and chaps along with shrapnel shorts and ballistic boots am level 3a from head to toe except hands and 300 Win Mag chest/back with overlaps to keep oblique angle rounds out. About all can do in the full head to toe kit is sit behind hide and run a rifle, walk from room to room in house or do one fast door kick and sweep few rooms then sit down but put it on and sit behind one of my barriers can sit and snipe while stopping up to 338 Lapua rounds and the spall from them as my barriers are Level 4+ minimum.

Trump is entertaining the idea of banning sales of armor to civilians on recommendations of law enforcement advisors. Cops at department level don't want civilians in armor as levels the playing field or gives us the advantage in many circumstances. Especially locked up in our houses with quality gas masks. Have been continuing to buy armor of all types as believe when day comes that must have LEO or dot gov letter to buy price is going to go through the roof like AR's post Sandy Hook. If Trump doesn't get conned next Dem administration will ban it.
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Old March 18, 2018, 20:27   #154
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So these new indoor shutters have become a new popular design style of HGTV. I saw the advantage of mounting shutters like this as more than decorative and wife has approved a project to do every window on the Ponderosa in a similar fashion.





Instead of just a track above for them to slide my design is going to have a track on bottom as well. Since the backs of the shutters is not seen it's not got to be astetically pleasing so my plan is to use sheets of 9/16" ballistic fiberglass and cover them with rough sawn cedar on inside and put a dual locking system.

Since windows already have NIJ Level 2 rated abrasion resistant polycarbonate on second floor and NIJ Level 3a polycarbonate on first floor windows along front and sides of house and the basemen windows along rear of house have two layears of abrasion resistant polycarbonate (one Level 3a and one Level 2) along with shatterproof hurricane rated storm windows once we slide the shutters closed will have three layers of ballistic material between outside and inside with exterior shutters.

One house we have seen they did similar treatment to exterior doors with interior "barn door sliders" and we will be doing so as well. Already have force rated entry ballistic exterior doors with locking shatterproof hurricane rated storm doors so again, a third redundant layer that we do not have to go outside to impliment. The existing exterior shutters are hinged with ability to lock and have a layer of 1/4" AR XXX steel that when closed will be facing outwards.

Thus if time allows windows will have three to four layers not counting dualike pane windows, one or two of ballistic polycarbonate then a layer of ballistic fiberglass inside to absorb any spall that managed to get through. Expect windows to exceed NIJ Level 3+/4. Exterior doors were obtained from a company that supplies dot gov agencies with force rated ballistic doors and with the new internal sliders and security storm doors will be way in excess of NIJ Level 4 rated.

With masonry exterior, reinforced areas between exterior and interior walls under and to sides of windows and either side of doors once we batton the hatches only way to get us out is burn us out and steps have been taken to make that difficult at best. Metal roof will not burn easily nor the brick. Use a lot of fire retardant paint at work for fire walls and other things code calls for it and whenever have torn out drywall spray the framing inside with it, use fire proof insulation and then replace drywall with water resistant/fire resistant "purple board", fiberglass reinforced concrete board and in some rooms 1/2" ballistic fiberglass. Our master bath shower enclosure design was CNC machined into 5/8" White abrasion resistant polycarbonate around a cast iron tub, force rated entry door as well as master bedroom door weighing over 350 pounds hung on 78" heavy duty piano hinge attached to steel framing.

If a person were to get their wife watching some of the current design shows and talk them into the new indoor shutter and secondary sliding "barn door" fad, even if used mild steel plate as base layer before laminating an attractive wood over then if SHTF even someone in wheelchair could roll around closing the extra shutters and reimforced doors without exposing themselves. With the 2" sandpiper and 2" firefighters hose outside and two fire extinguishers in every room plus automated systems in high threat areas, it will be tough to get this place burning hot enough to run fast. Just passed the 25 year mark in hardening the house.

Last week's project was installing an electric/propane refrigerator in basement panic room so when electricity goes, it switches automatically to using propane to cool so does not tax our generator or battery stacks. We are shopping for a new camper and have been pulling the propane hot water heater, propane stove and oven, propane/electric refrigerator freezer and installing a working kitchen and all lighting in that room is 12 volt DC LED and basically ripped off the design and components from standard camper technology. Was super cheap not counting the ballistic fiberglass but most came from a freight company auction of unclaimed items. Turned 55 a couple weeks ago and goal is to have house finished by age 60 which will have been 30 years consisting of at least one major hardening and/or security feature added per year. Over the winter began swapping the older polycarbonate out with bronze tinted Lexa MR 10 abrasion resistant. From inside looks like all windows are lightly tinted but from outside unless strongly backlighted from inside all someone trying to look in sees is their reflection in a bronze colored mirrored material. Wife loves being abe to keep blinds open but nobody see in.

If you believe or are even concerned about SHTF need to think about hardening your home. Southwestern adobe structures are tough as are log homes with metal roofs but if live in vinyl siding house or synthetic stucco it's basically a Styrofoam cup with some plaster or plastic covering it. 1950's and 1960's brick homes make the perfect platform to gut and remodel, especially ones with good high ceiling basements. If shop for a house think about how difficult it would be to penetrate walls. A friend was about to have his vinyl siding replaced due to warping, I walked up to his garage, pulled several runs of vinyl off with bare hands, kicked through the foil covered Styrofoam and asked him if needed to bust on through drywall to make my point. He was stunned and had house recovered with Hardiboard instead. Can do the same with synthetic stucco or EIFS, whichever term you want to use. Wife is excited about shutters she can close if I am not home. Win/win.
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Old April 07, 2018, 05:05   #155
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Cruising Craigslist this week and found a vendor selling all the ballistic glass and polycarbonate from a bank decomission. Got the big two piece drive through windows which is blast and ballistic rated in frame, dozens of large, medium and smaller pieces of ballistic polycarbonate for $300 and he met me half way. Have 60"×144" picture window with two layers of 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate that each sheet stops most handgun rounds and combined never punched two sheets with a handgun of any type from 454 Casull Mag with hard cast, hot 38 Super, 40 Smith or 10mm.

The bank drive through window has center support as our big picture window does but is 40"×120" now have to figure out how to center this bank window up in existing and properly support (have masonry and steel to attach it to) then the top 10" which is above head height fill gap with a 12" piece of 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate and the 12" on either end the same. Will give me 33.33 square feet of UL blast and ballistic rated glass behind two sheets of 1/2" polycarbonater and then along top which is above sight line a third layer of 1/2"×12" polycarbonate and same on either end. Be some more framing but all brushed stainless and can make it resonably attractive and know majority of this huge @$$ window which has survived direct strikes of limbs in big storms spawned by hurricanes bring out, downdraft microburts and high winds flinging tree limbs with other debris at least four to six times ballistic ability as current.

Have one more big window of concern on front porch next to front door looking into living room. It's a 60"×60" standard pane glass window with storm window covering outside. Did laminate the storm window with 3M Ultra Prestige Security Film which makes it almost impervious to attack with crowbar, baseball bat or concrete block. Inside have a single layer of 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate that know will stop 9mm, 357 mag, 44 mag along with high pressure rounds like 40 Smith and 38 Super but some of the specialty 357 SIG will slide through with little gas left and 50 caliber copper solid shotgun slugs will defeat it although lose a lot of punch in the process. Turns out is a piece of U.V. stabile U.L. Level 3 (rated 44 Mag 240 grain wadcutter with 12 gauge shotgun 1 ounce slug supplimental rating) piece from the bank lot slightly oversized as need to cut it to 59"×59" to fit frame and go over outside of the big window looking at my recliner.

Now can sit in recliner knowing that door is 20 minute force rated entry and NIJ 4 ballistic rated plus that big window will stop most if not all handgun and shotgun threats with first layer then have the coated glass to suck up more energy if first level defeated then the 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate inside that ensures no handgun, shotgun or subgun mag dump gets in and should take most of the sting out of rifle bullets but not all. They should be deformed and moving off path up to 7.62×51 ball and when wife is home alone she should have more time to navigate to panic room if that picture window is attacked. It's ground level and concerned me some time. The really big window in back is second story and anyone walking in back yard with a battle rifle has already set off alarms. In a few weeks house will have its two most vulnerable areas more than doubled in ballistic protection level. Makes me happy to keep hardening the Ponderosa.
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Old April 17, 2018, 14:49   #156
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Beware of huge amount of Chinese armor on fleabay that usually says "has letter of certification from H.P. White laboratories" or something of that nature. Half the helmets for sale on fleabay say that and a lot of folks are also buying the Chinese helmets adding a few pieces of USGI accessories like suspension and padding kits which are dirt cheap, painting with custom pattern usually looks like scales or something really high speed/low drag along with some airsoft N Rails, then dragging through dirt just enough to convince you its lightly used USGI and the advertisement will also usually say "RARE MICH Mid Cut Helmet Ops-Core EOG MARSOC SOF JSOC NSW". Look closely and if vendor seems to always have lightly used special ops gear they are either top notch and have great feedback or crooks.

A one minute video by a former SEAL on how to handle a dog attack.

http://www.businessinsider.com/navy-...-by-dog-2017-6
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Old April 19, 2018, 19:43   #157
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Every overt rifle vest, load carrying vest, backpack, bug out bag, etc now has these two lights in addition to whatever lights they might have as part of their mission.



The upper light is an aluminum body Coast narrow field of view light about the size of a fountain pen with two brightness settings. It's high power is still narrow but will throw it's beam a good 150 feet and on low power it is perfect for map reading of pilfering through a pack without creating so much stray light everyone in eye shot could see you, it's very discreet and runs for months on a pair of rechargeable AAA's even with a lot of use as in daily use.

The small Pellican I.R. light is great for looking at maps, radios, in bags, dark corners, etc when your night vision needs a little help but don't want to create a huge flume of light to alert anyone around using night vision to your presence. Am learning very small low power lights are as important if not more important than a big torch in a lot of applications, are lightweight and take up almost no room. They both will fit in or clip to a free molle loop and the Coast will clip to one and tuck into loop of next row and is very secure.
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Old April 25, 2018, 21:38   #158
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A Little Random Rant

Aussie troops were buying U.S. armor for use in Afganistan out of pocket their TBAS was so uncomfortable. Stuff is said to be so combersome if fall on back can't get up without help like turning over a turtle. Of course U.S. troops were buying armore out of pocket or family was sending then they got IOTV but Colonels and Generals were wearing Pinnacle Dragon Skin because they could afford it and Army banned personal armor as troops didn't trust armor their superior officers would not wear. Funny thing is original Dragon Skin would not stop an oblique shot. Have to send your $2,500 armor set to Stealth Armor Systems for a rebuild that costs $1,500 or just drop $3,000 for their LVAC Hexar 3+ full coverage multi-hit. Want some Hexar flexible plates bad.

Just got a pair of plates today that are absolute edge of my price point. Been assembling a covert and overt full featured kit for member here with helmet and accessories and noticed a pair of plates seller was asking $499 each (retail for $660 and street is $575 each) for and had seen them first time months ago. Did my usual thing and watched them run through three seven day auctions then emailed an offer when saw they were getting no bites. They were offended and told me I didn't know what they were. Said I did but with them not being authorized dealer could they give warranty cards?

Now months later were still for sale, had finally dropped price to $450 each and I sent $700 offer for the pair (8"×10" for covert armor not full size 10"×12" plates) shipped and they came back with big fat no again. Said I had no idea what they were and I in turn educated seller what high end plates sell for from non dealers missing box and papers on fleabay. A week or so later they offered to split it to $400 each plus shipping and told them I made best offer could. Mid week last week got a message asking if I would still give four bills, said yes and arrived early today. Manufacture date Dec 2016 and had never been worn as had the original shrink wrap on them.

Called my Safariland rep, told him what had done then emailed pictures. Before left work had email with pdf file with paperwork to fill out for my 10 year waranty. Have three product reviews on Safariland sites of high end products, one with eight vests with their $250 special threat plates, another for their $1,020 each Hardwire Level 3++ stand alone plates with pictures and review with pictures of their Protech Level 3+ $750 each plates. Far as their concerned have purchased $5,500+ worth of current model plates and reviewed well on their site. They gave me my 25 year factory warranty on my Hardwire plates and 10 year on all the Protechs. Know I bought as dealer samples on the cheap carried around but never removed from shrink wrap so they know will likely get a nice review of their newer top line LEO/military only plates. Cool thing is fit in one of my covert kits and cover huge amount of real estate, weigh 1.5 pounds each and less than inch thick with antimicrobial padding. Only plate have seen rated to stop M855A1 and 300 Win Mag multiple hits other than my Hardwire plates and their Level 4 plates which I have but bought moderately used but after review the new plates going to see if can talk them into recovering the Level 4 plates and putting a warranty on them.

But 8"×10" is biggest plate can wear concealed and never had a rifle plate could wear in back and sit comfortably with rear plate installed. Have both plates in one of my Safariland level 2+ kits now and been sitting on sofa for couple of hours. Plan to wear them tomorrow to funeral between Columbia and Charleston and carry the pair of 10.5" piston drive AR 15's. Told to expect it to be long event with one and half hour reception then three pm service with three preachers and grace side with full military honors including guns and bugle. Wife's great uncle was awarded Legion of Merit, Bronze Star, Purple Heart and more fighting in Europe during WW2. With us being told that still on occasion get protestors at military funerals as the Patriot Guard motorcycle guys will be there and they tend to draw protestors who follow them around but with it being a 90 year old WW2 veteran low odds of issues but now having a covert kit that weighs seven pounds protecting heart, lungs and spine from multiple hits up to 300 Win Mag and M855A1 just have to wear it since be on the road and want to.

Now have five sets of lightweight to moderately lightweight high threat rifle plates, six or more sets of moderate weight Level 3 rifle plates and two Level 4 and more average weight Level 3 plates than can count. Have 14 rifle kits totally set up ready to deploy with radios, IFAK's, mag carriers, communications harnesses for multi radio operation, various add on features based on desire and goals plus one in my truck, one in wife's truck and half dozen at work. Crazy thing is when people contact wanting to buy armor rather than sell my kits find them good kits based on their size/desires/needs as afraid to sell mine and Trump sign the armor ban for civilians all the police agencies have been asking for. Best part of new plates is not supposed to have them and Safariland doesn't care but gave me my warranty. Wife even pulled a covert Level 2 kit for tomorrow with special threat plates.
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Old April 29, 2018, 09:28   #159
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Look at weight and contemplate these are rated to stop six rounds of 7.62 NATO M80 ball and the new 5.56 M855A1 replacement for green tips. Only Level 3 have seen to claim abe to stop the new M855A1.



Don't want to know the price, over a grand for a set of plates at retail.
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A time will come when people will not listen to accurate teachings. Instead, they will follow their own desires and surround themselves with teachers who tell them what they want to hear. 2 Timothy 4:3 G.W.T.
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Old April 29, 2018, 09:45   #160
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The title of the thread should be:

The Great Wall of Text....no one can get over it.
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Old May 10, 2018, 16:51   #161
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To whom it may concern:
(and for 2 bare arms, here is a wall of test and pics plus extraneous crap to baffle folks as the person post is for will know more about what he is getting, not getting and might want to add to order while is being processed...)

This is your NIJ Level 2 covert kit with Dyneema special threat plate rated to NIJ 3a stand alone plus most know handgun special threats. Keeps majority of torso from being punctured by most threats up to 9mm/357 Mag and lungs/heart area protected from virtually all handgun threats while being trim and easy to hide under a light shirt.



On your trauma plate can choose from any on right or left side, I would choose one on right as will fit your vest well and all are Dyneema, the round top are tad more comfortable with triple compound curve molded in.





If prefer, top of this stack has Kevlar lined AR250 steel plates for overt, its old technology but many old timers wont use anything else.



Plenty of name brand Kevlar trauma panels as well.



Here is your IOTV overt woodland camo kit with soft armor rated to stop a "burst from 9mm submachinegun" which in my testing is a solid NIJ 3a multi-hit. Has three magazine pouches that hold two 30 round 5.56 mags each, If want to rearrange you can, I would use the upper one next to universal medium/large frame pistol holster for radio if need comms, can add another mag pouch if you want, have them in stock. Dang if both woodland IFAK's ordered were not back-ordered but can supply contents for IFAK in ACU, black or send a woodland when find it. Just in looking back at pics of my kits looks like only one has a woodland IFAK, I seem to use digital woodland or multicam most often. Hmmm.



Here is the first of your two plate choices. One is NIJ Level 3 stand alone and other is NIJ Level 3 ICW soft arnor whic of course is in the IOTV carrier. Pair conbined are pushing nine pounds which is just a tad over the weight of a single steel plate without spall guard panel.



Here is your second plate choice adds a few pounds, just shy of 13 pounds combined with one plate being Level IV stand alone and other being NIJ 3 stand alone and NIJ IV ICW soft armor.



The level four adds a few pounds and a few dollars but since odds are will not be used unless SHTF or hear a bump in the night and need to patrol the yard its the difference between stopping the Level 3 stopping 7.62 M80 ball and 5.56 M193 ball compared to the Level 4 stopping 30-06 black tip AP and 5.56 M855 green tip. As common as green tip is now and fact my next doo neighbor and across the street neighbor both hunt and defend their homes with 30-06 bolt rifles my protect the Pondeorsa kits are Level 4.

My might have to lace up the boots to run around possibly go for a hike would grab a kit with the lighter plates hoping I didn't get shot with anything more than M80 or M193 and know that if I am the Level 3 kit takes a huge amount of lethality away from the hit. I do have a set of Level 4 lightweight plates but paid $400 each for the privilege which stung the wallet but I have a broken back and broken neck so need the weight savings but will only risk getting them damaged if SHTF and have to live in full armor long term.

If just slip out in the yard my Level 4 kit is exact same plates have proposed for you as are my primary Level 3 plates because came in group power buy. Pulled these NIJ 4 plates out of my spare kit which normally do not do for folks but need to recoup the hit I took buying a set of Level 3+ covert plates found while shopping for your kits.

Have your helmet and NOS U.S. issue woodland cover to swap for the ACU on it currently and is real milspec, not crappy chinese copy that lights up under I.R. night vision like a torch on your head. Your helmet will be very similar to front and center unit in below pic.



Plan on dropping a repair kit for vest in the IFAK contents as any small tears need to be fixed before they get stressed.



If want throat protector have them, I seldom use but adds $15.

If want gloves have cut/needle/fire resistant that still have enough feel to pick up a dime off flat surface.



All the folks trying to cheap out using chinese airsoft carriers with steel armor wil suffer till thier kits fall apart i matter of days or weeks. Past two months have had two people (one car repo acquaintance and one bail bond skip tracer) both showed up with fleabay carriers and steel armor with truck bed liner for spall coating which does not work to see if I could help them. both of their carriers had blown seams and said before the seams blew the kits were so uncomfortable they could barely stand wearing them.

Dont buy cheap steel in cheap carriers in the fleabay kits that some are doing a fine job marketing to look like a cool setup for fair price. To date have now had six people buy my cast off milspec ceramic plates that I no longer use or sell to friends with money in Condor carriers which are decent but not low I.R. signature materials and dyes if in situation where opposing person is using night vision. The Condor and chinese materials and dyes light up especially if use standard detergents to wash with U.V. brighteners.

So for the Files member soon to be a new daddy need to decide if want to save just a few dollars and a few pounds and be Level 3 or spend a tad more and carry a bit more weight to be Level 4. That's the difference between the SWAT guys in the van, backup stations and rooftop (level 3) versus the door kickers and actual entry team (Level 4) who may get their @$$ shot. Helmet will get cover on and going to dig at home and see if can find a spare woodland IFAK can pull off one of my kits as will find one soon and want to get your kit in the mail. Just PM and let me know which plates to stick in the IOTV vest. For those who night want to know what a nice covert and overt setup costs here is the breakdown.

New Old Stock (still an issue item) Woodland IOTV carrier with soft armor, new neck yoke and neck armor, $250, new groin protector $20. Holster $18. three double 5.56 mag pouches $36, genuine U.S. issue woodland helmet cover $36, nice U.S. Gentex made MICH helmet $90.

Set of name brand U.S. Level 3 plates (mix of ICW and stand alone) $150. Set of name brand U.S. Level 4 plates (mix of ICW and stand alone) $200.

Second Chance NIJ Level 2 covert vest in very clean condition, $75. Dyneema special threat plate $29. That's $104 for a very clean covert vest looks like worn only a few times. I did buy four more while shopping, paid more for some, less for others while shopping and picked best option for Files members needs. the others will stockpile and use as body armor is hot item locally after our international news event highway sniper attack in Mayberry.

New overt vest with accessories minus IFAK and plates $324. which is half what Uncle Sugar pays. Level 3 plates will bump it to $474 and Level 4 plates to $524. Current issue MICH helmet with cover $126 thus upper body Level 3 with helmet and all nice new matching accessories and covers $600. Same kit in Level 4 with matching accessories and helmet $650. Covert kit $104 with latest top line ultra light trauma plate $104.

IFAK is $59 plus $20 for latest generation tourniquet for $79 total.

All has been inspected by myself and having shot over 100 separate pieces of armor would bet my life all will perform to rated standards. If want used covers and accessories, willing to risk buying some cheap stuff and possibly have to throw in the "to be shot for testing pile" can do it all cheaper. I bought over $2,000 worth of armor while picking out this kit for a member here but I like buying armor and don't mind the pieces that came in and didn't look as clean as wanted to represent myself kept for myself. He needed a medium IOTV vest and purchased three woodland IOTV kits varying in price from $199 to $250 one with neck yoke other without, let the one with the neck yoke go as have lots of neck yokes and don't care if mine match. if look back through this thread will see a bunch of nice matching kits where look like stinking salesman display models trying to close a multi-million dollar deal with Uncle Sugar. A lot of my kits are Salesman samples and most overt armor I sell is new, never issued.

A personal kit of mine, woodland IOTV carrier, groin protector, throat protector ACU neck yoke and IFAK wih Multicam mag pouch, O.D. Green holster and radio pouch plus digital woodland accessory pouch. Looks odd and has same Level 3 plate set giving Files member option of owning. I don't like the faded ACU IFAK and plan on replacing soon as dig though all the crap am filtering right now for three total people.



Part of what am having to pilfer though to make no money off a Files member that has been decent to me in the past. Will make money off some chump with plenty. Like my free AR upper repair service, blows a lot of folks minds but I enjoy it so don't need to make money everything I do but need to break even on armor.







See kits that look like these in my house can be sure are top notch everything, batteries in radios are charged, magazines rotated regular, flashlights bright, totally ready to rock. Can tell I do like IOTV and especially woodland as its easy to get in with front entry and woodland works great in southeast.















These be some burly Level 3++ hard plates that wrap around torso and almost give full coverage.



Level 3++ plate carrier that goes in whichever truck I drive on any particular day in case it turns to crap.



The seat cover in my little work truck.



Don't know if I an a hoarder, paranoid, or just looney tunes but every room of our house when close door there is a vest hanging at ready with rifle its set up to support. When wife and I both leave the house locking up the rifles is a chore and then getting them back out another but its our routine. All trucks are set up with armor and rifle for one, if we travel together kit for the other has to be moved in. Recently the new guy at the LGS had to ask me if I really had ballistic underwear. When showed him the pics and said it was fireproof ballistic underwear he had to fin over some cash to the folks he called B.S. on and made a bet thinking they were messing with his head...







This pic has all the info need if want to order your own underwear, protecting that femoral artery is a big deal. Most docs go for this in their kits.



My personal at the house redundant backups.









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Old August 04, 2018, 19:01   #162
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Have been testing armor from ballistic barriers to body armor for over two decades now. Here is the result of a test shooting at 0.375" T6 6061 aluminum.



Held up well to all handgun threats to 44 magnum but as a control launched a round of 7.62×39 Hungarian steel core corrosive primed at the same plate.



Here is how a piece of 0.500" abrasion resistant polycarbonate held up, yes I am recycling photos as not letting my entire cat out of the bag for several reasons. Going to link some articles that might help people understand where I am going. It shows stops from full house defensive ammo from 9mm, 40 Smith and 45 acp. Particular brand is Palguard abrasion resistant.



Here is a piece of 0.375" Lexan MR10 abrasion resistant polycarbonate after stopping two rounds of 9mm on the left and defeated by a round of 7.62×39 lead core.



Here is a piece of 0.500" ballistic fiberglass which is for discussion purposes is $1,000 for a 48"×96" sheet at street price though I get wholesale pricing.



For testing purposes like to brew up special threats to test. This is a M855 Green Tip loading using a sabot in a 308 case to 4,000 fps. Can load them much faster but learned if exceed 4,000 fps accuracy degrades exponentially quickly with every 100 fps added.



If shoot this at 0.500" mild steel straight on burns a hole in it but if tilt to 45° it pulls a divot out of it and skips on its way but the trap that will stop 7.62x51 lead core as its maximum stops all of the projectile after it has been deflected by the mild steel due to energy lost in initial deflected hit.



Now for some reading as will learn that T7 aluminum is double the hardness of T6 and at the retail or wholesale end is only about a 5% difference in cost, layering different materials such as thin layers of abrasion resistant steel, aluminum, PE and ballistic fiberglass can result in tough, lightweight panels that are much less expensive than trying to use one particular material alone.

https://link.springer.com/article/10...340-009-9328-4

http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?scri...52016000901658

This link downloads a dot gov pdf comparing T4 and T7 aluminum.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...q5Hw57Unbwu7nP

Link to article multilayered materials in armor plate.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...DNf4GLnmnf3oi2

After years of playing have discovered that a composite of two layers of 0.375" T7 aluminum, 0.375" abrasion resistant polycarbonate, 0.500" ballistic fiberglass and two 0.125 AR 450 steel create a panel less than two inches thick and will stop all threats up to 338 Lapua standard AP. Using other materials of lesser expense and building panels with mix of angled louvers mixed with sold sheets can make a panel that fits between the studs and drywall of a standard 2×4 framed house that will stop up to 30-06 black tip using materials that can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's for about 25% of the cost of any solid sheet laminate or single sheet of ballistic fiberglass (takes 1.50" of ballistic fiberglass to stop a 30-06 black tip) and am trying to figure out how to get an official certification on its threat level without paying for a patent that is easily broken or giving up exact construction methods.

May want to Google non-newtonion fluids as well as articles on angle of armor in relation to penetration along with host of others then do a little back yard testing. I do mine indoors at 25 feet and it's a hoot watching bullets hit my test panels especially now that I have two slow motion video cameras. Hopefully will have my past decade of research and experimentation on a new website eventually but the editing and trying to work the math which explains why some of my non standard barriers work so well. Not NASA or DARPA level technology but ways to stop bullets over large amount of area the common man can afford to home brew.
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Old August 08, 2018, 21:08   #163
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Common items that will stop handgun bullets:

7” of Sand 50 AE pistol
2 2” Concrete Pavers 50 AE pistol
6 Ceramic Tiles 50 AE pistol
18” Water 50 AE pistol
24” Dirt 50 AE pistol
Full Water Heater 50 AE pistol
Full Filing Cabinet 50 AE pistol

Some double wall cast iron bathtubs will stop handgun rounds but others won't. Single wall claw foot tubs will bust with most centerfire handgun rounds 9mm or larger.

These are a few items that are common and can be used to create barriers that will stop up to the burly 50 caliber handguns. The 2"×12"×12" cement pavers sold at home improvement centers are pretty tough. Please don't take my word that any of these will save your life in all situations or test in unsafe manner. All cement is not equal just like all wood is not equal. If having a cement block wall for a basement laid or hip wall you can back fill the cells with cement which make it very much stronger and more effective but is expensive. Around here most of the concrete block structures I have built on of every six to eight cells must be back filled with cement and rebar tied to rebar in footing. I have filled one of four cells with cement and all the others with sand. It adds 5" of sand in the normally hollow cells that will often stop the bullet from breaking back side of bock keeping wall structural and effective cover for more shots.

Have tested some old growth reclaimed 2" cedar taken from structures being taken down that would stop a major power factor 45 acp from 5" 1911 as well as some 1" thick exotic boards that cost more than ballistic fiberglass per square foot. Also have seen the same 45 acp round stopped by a 3.5"×3.5" treated pine post fresh from the treatment plant and not fully dried but once dry the same 45 round will pass through even a 5.5"×5.5" treated post that has had time to dry over time.

1/4" of mild steel is marginal for handgun rounds and Chinese steel usually fails before U.S. made mild steel plate. Layers are a huge threat protection advantage. Take multiple layers of 1/16" mild steel sheet and layer to 1/4" and will almost always be 50% to 70% more effective than a solid plate. A major metropolitan phone book won't stop most defensive rounds dry but soak it in water for 24 hours and it's threat level goes up significantly. There may be a time you need to cobble together a quick barrier so always remember layering whatever you have.
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Old August 22, 2018, 10:26   #164
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Sticking a medical issue in the No Topic thread as its a new issue for me and had never heard of it. Doc had benched me for almost three weeks due to rupturing another disk in spine so did as said for most part and only worked two days per week when had a helper to pull the harder labor and lifting while I managed the detail work. Had helper meet me at house so didn't even have the stress of driving and pressing pedals on spine.

Friday before last told me could return to work, try to take it easy first few days and see how body did. His outpatient procedures seemed to do well and the back was not bothering me enough to whine so spent all week last week hustling my rear end off on ladders and concrete floor of shop. Early last winter we had a rainy period where slipped on ladder near ground and cracked the Metatarsal bone in my left foot which is the big bone in foot that connects to the Phalange of the big toe.

Doctor did x-rays, said minor crack, put me in an orthopedic boot, said no ladders for two weeks and use a cane when walking plus try to limit walking on concrete to a couple hours per day. Followed directions, went in for follow up with fresh x-rays where orthopedic doc said looked good, go back to work and try not to over do for next couple of weeks. Everything has been fine with foot since till Saturday. Spent the week only doing no more than two hours per day on ladders and a couple hours per day on concrete and got a lot of paperwork caught up.

Go in a call from a good client that pays top dollar and always wants top shelf work. Issue was he called at 7:00 am on Friday and needed job completed by Monday. Spent Friday catching up on a few field installs and gathering materials would need for his job. Saturday was full speed feeding computer printed and cut graphics to two helpers who were prepping them to install on a 35 foot cube truck which was a half wrap with mix of prespaced vinyl graphics on rest of truck. With two helpers got all graphics ready for install as I printed and cut them. We got one side of truck done in a 10 hour day, six hours running on concrete and four on ladders.

Sunday woke up and foot hurt but was not horrible so after church went and did the rear door of the cube truck by myself which had a bunch of rivets and panels requiring splitting graphics where roll up door sections separated so it was another four to five hours on ladder. Sunday night/Monday morning foot was aching but had to finish job and didn't have any help which took eight hours mostly on ladders when not walking on hot asphault or concrete in direct hot sun in middle of parking lot with no shade. Tuesday morning was unable to get from bed to bathroom without crutches. Took the day off, went to see primary care who referred me to ortho after x-rays who referred me to foot specialist.

The cracked bone from last winter now has a bone spur along with some calcium deposits on it which may be pressing against the nerve or the nerve involved could be getting pressure from sheath like carpal tunnel syndrome in hands. Am officially diagnosed with Tarsal Tunnel Syndrome by three doctors from primary to ortho to foot surgeon. If not addressed will become chronic and may not be able to relieve pain if wait too long or may go away if wait. Because of the calcium deposits, regular work on concrete floors, ladders and uneven terrain all three doctors are recommending surgical procedure as its now been five days, laying in bed now with ice and had final outpatient on ruptured disk where at end of sedation back surgeon dropped a syringe load of Fentanyl and another of Torodol to help with post op pain and the foot but foot still feels like it's on fire.

Meet with a second surgeon on Tuesday as always get a second opinion from a specialist but odds are they will have to remove calcium deposits, any bone spurs on path nerve takes from ankle to toe and split the nerve sheath from ankle to toe to be sure get whatever the true issue is and not have to repeat if try just the calcium deposits and bone spurs. They said if ice and rest a week or so will feel better but then whenever overwork foot the pain will return and could become umtreatable. If second cutter agrees with primary, ortho and first surgeon will have to get it fixed as its a solid nine in the ine to ten pain scale and for me a nine is usually in emergency room or ambulance on way to emergency room for treatment. A ten is put me in induced coma before I have to shoot myself which have been at that point a few times.

People through around nine and ten on pain scale all the time, heard it in doctors office Tuesday from a person walking without any aids, person driving and was not crying or screaming which is not a ten. I can't have a few long days on ladder putting me down for a week while ice and elevate till issue becomes so bad they can't fix it. So if the big pad behind your big toe begins to hurt like all he!! broke loose with mix of pain, electric shocks and numbness shooting down big toe go get it looked at. Man who can't walk can't run and man who can't run will be the man eaten by the bear. Tarsal Tunnel Syndrome... just what I need is another malady to deal with but told prognosis for full recovery without relapse is very high if get the surgery over with and do my rehab as ordered.

Had stopped riding bikes and trying to jog due to this and thought it was just a "hot spot" that's part of getting older. Would be nice to get back on the bike or take a run without having foot feel like it's on fire for several days to week following any real attempt. The feet are a person's foundation and nothing with a bad foundation stands for lomg. Take care of your feet, learned that mountaineering as something as simple as a blister can kill you in the Andes or Himalaya if not dealt with properly.
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Old September 09, 2018, 10:50   #165
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Have two retired military guys who help me repair, modify and downright hack marine radars. One is a former Navy Chief Petty Officer who had a 30 year career in radar and sonar but majority of his experience is sonar but civilian marine radar systems are pretty easy for him compared to the systems on a U.S. flagged naval vessel so he is great with the guts, to waveguides and modifying antenna arrays/radones to do what we might want them but he was mostly trained when systems stood alone and not integrated with computers till late in his career so he said he left most of the computer stuff to the "kids" and they screamed for him when anything went wrong that couldn't be corrected with a keyboard or motherboard.

My other go-to guy did 20 years in the Army Signal Corp before leaving to work for a military contractor designing and testing systems for another 15 years and has fairly good computer skills as lot of our projects have to user legal "hacker" software to take the output from a modified marine radar and display on a monitor useable information that filters out trees, structures and such. If leave one unit in place for more than about 20 minutes has defined all fixed structures and begins to filter out trees swaying in the breeze and can define zones like the road it won't alarm if detects movement unless elevate alert status.

Can set it up to ignore or alert on boats running around the lake though sometimes has issues with small fiberglass craft and will give similar response to a human or humans moving as since it's been modified to work like a military ground radar for protecting forward bases from sneak attacks and can detect a man walking upright as slow a one meter per minute if not able to always keep structure between it and the radone. It has dead zones and such and why am finally working on a second unit with much higher power and triple the resolution/range due to power and bigger radome.

My Navy guy found three small issue I had missed though I got it to point of powering up, locating radone, and almost working as a marine radar like it's supposed to. Once we got it working took it to the boat ramp and big popular boating area of lake and it's a powerhouse compared to my other two radars. Yesterday my former Signal Corp guy came by work, ran it, took some measurements, photos of boards, outputs and took the operators and service manual to start working on software modification to pipe an output through software and convert it to a second ground radar.

Let both use my shop, tools and ham radio shack as both live in subdivisions with antenna restrictions requiring stealth antennas to avoid issues with their POA's and like working off my 60 foot tower with the amp and bring their own CW keys. The Navy guy uses a nice 50 year old straight key and the Army guy uses a Vibroplex bug. Both run CW so fast that I can't catch anything other than their call signs due to familiarity and both have to slow down for many operators on other side of a contact. General rule is to not send Morse Code any faster than the person on other side is teansmitting.

After finishing up with looking over the new unit and our modifications to limit the sweep of the radone to 220° as a 360° sweep would just be pinging the side of the house. No sense in blasting the house with more R.F. than have to even with a lot of R.F. shielding including room where the computers and main radios are has fairly tight Faraday cage but pour enough power close buy and it will try to ride on the outside of feedline for radios, wash out antennas and overload front ends of radios. Before leaving he said he had a gift and gave me this book titled Introduction to Radar Systems. Said to call or email when had questions or confusion then once finish it will pass on another book as he doesn't need most of his library anymore, especially the basic stuff and is passing it on to me.

So I spent yesterday evening looking through the "basic" or "introduction" book and first half was o.k., realized was going to have to do some research, Google searches and ask a few questions but wasn't looking too bad till got about half way through and noticed the schematics were getting more complex, math went from frequency calculations for operating and internal frequencies for klystron, phase detector, mixers, duplexer separation of frequencies, local occilator, phase detector, etc and this was more of an introduction for EE majors at NATS aka GA Tech. I can follow the circuits, test for proper operation when have its service manual and luckily most fried units I buy the issue is something simple like an internal power supply, on-board fuses, burnt traces, etc.

When not simple call for help then as moved into last half of the book realized am going to have to relearn a lot of calculus that has slipped out of the internal memory banks and can't get the next book till have a handle in this one. I believe they both realize are growing old, while I am not young want to do more than fixing the stuff I can't, but teach me their craft for the day they can't and hope I will pass on some of what they teach me. They believe U.S. needs hillbillys wandering around barefoot in overalls through the woods who can make radar and other systems work. Guy who volunteered to fix both my H.F. amplifiers didn't fix them but sat next to me and suggested parts to test, how to test smaller groups of circuits, source old door knob capacitors, tubes from Russia and China and how to burn them in so could better understand who makes the more robust and powerful tubes. Like it when people force me to learn, don't just fix it without explaining anything and still as dumb as I was when called for help.











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Old September 10, 2018, 01:51   #166
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Huey:

Take that soft armor off the hangers and lay it flat. (In the dark)

Not good for it to hang, weight of it pulls the fibers apart.
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Old September 10, 2018, 09:35   #167
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Everything you see hanging is in my rotation for use or hung in manner the carrier bears the load. Some you see are just carriers hang drying as don't dry them in a machine. Wear armor every day and when working sweat it up so bad has to be washed every time it's worn. Means an average of four to six carriers per week from late spring through summer and early fall. Winter may get two to three days between washing. Keep ten black work vests so don't have to run a load every week and four white vests for church ready to go and about every eight to ten days wash all the sweaty covers and wipe down the panels before reassemble.

At house have around 100 total vests stored flat on shelving units, especially heavier units. Have a crate of rifle plates and another of special threat plates. Probably have more at work that I sell locally. Buy entire lots as departments rotate every five years and cherry pick the unissued units for myself and wife then sell good used units as people need. Last I sold guy had very specific needs so bought all new old stock from vendors on my list. For every vest you see hanging have at least a dozen more stored in stacks nice and flat.

Purchased an NIJ Level II vest from a retired cop in Florida. Said it was issued to him when hired. Wore it daily for over a decade on patrol then when promoted to detective kept in trunk of car and only wore when felt needed. I believe the trunk of a car in Florida at 100°+ during day is worst conditions can think of other than caustic chemicals. He kept it three years after retired before selling. I co I ld not wait to shoot it. Have a manniquin have hollowed out a big area pack full of sculpters clay and shoot the crap out of it. Rear panel stopped every Level II threat threw at it. Back face signature was as expected but it stopped all NIJ Level 2 threats. Front panel stopped two Level 2 and then put three beyond Level II rounds in his 30 year old trauma plate and it survived till fourth in a small area defeated it.

Have shot over two dozen vests, whenever get panels in too fugly to use or sell I shoot them. No matter how discolored or frayed all have stopped their rated threat even at 10 to 37 years old. I don't believe the myths of armor failing due to storage or age. If totally soaked wet through every fiber it loses effectiveness but my work vests have Kevlar in waterproof panels. I test rifle plates for a small armor company before they submit for NIJ certification. Thier landlord made them shut down their in-house test range so I do it for them. Fairly well versed on what Kevlar, Dyneema, Gold Shield, Specter and more will and won't do. Also know how to store but need a percentage of it in handy locations as can't run to a stack in basement and start assembling a kit if home invaders are trying to kick down front door.
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Old September 10, 2018, 10:06   #168
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Just a point of view but yes body armour is important but just as important is defeating those who wear it. What you have someone else has. If you can defeat it then someone can defeat yours. Neighbor tells me he is ex military and has full body armour right down to the groin protector. Looking at his preps he is way light on food so where does he plan to eat?

So what's the kink in his armour? He has night vision, trained in the Gracie style of martial arts to the point he said he was an instructor. Carries a Glock 17 and a 380 of some sorts, tricked out AR. 47 and trains with a friend. Personality is smart but self centered. Reaches out to be friendly but tells folks how dangerous he can be. No regular job but makes a good living on Internet sales.

Drives vans that he can sleep in so it looks like he plans to get out of dodge since he has little food. Interesting character that has world travels and seen everything and done everything.

The kink in every man's armour is you let potential enemies know too much. People are not private any more and tell you everything, show you everything without really knowing you.

Just for instance let's say GP lived next to Huey when it all goes down, how would that play out?
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Old September 13, 2018, 09:23   #169
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About four miles from house have the last controlled access interstate before it becomes a divided four lane with occasional red light, cross roads and 65 mph speed limit. Never saw much development due to distance from town and inadequate sewer and water infrastructure. The local hospital which is five miles from house if turn away from interstate at main intersection has spawned a lot of new medical buildings marching toward the Ponderosa plus majority of the businesses on the new four lane they built a decade ago I use on commute to work is mostly medical.

A couple years ago Kroger chose it for their largest grocery store in the state or southeast at the time so city annexed huge chunks of property and has been scrambling to add water and sewer infrastructure non stop for three years since they applied for the permit not counting what was added for the new "Limestone Corridor" when built a decade ago to allow people travelling on State Route 129 to bypass downtown. Like many new four lane roads where was nothing but woods and an old quarry businesses sprung up on the new road such as more medical, half dozen assisted living facilities, pharmacies and grocery stores.

This area has gone from basically nothing past the old mill to several multistory medical buildings, large sprawling medical multi-practice facilities (my doc/climbing partner is building three new multi-practice buildings on property he purchased on new four lane when it was cheap surrounding his existing building. Have over a dozen dental practices, restauramts, new industrial park with three miles of new road frontage, buildings going up every direction look and yesterday they installed the water meters to a medium size mix use development with first business being a huge car wash. The city tied it into one of the new water mains along with quite a few other businesses and about 4:30 wife called had heard an explosion in basement like a gun shot, carefully went down stairs to see water pouring out of ceiling of the climbing cave which is under kitchen one end and half bath other.

Ordered her up the stairs, to hit the electrical emergency disconnect at meter base first as routed myself from a jobsite luckily only six or so miles from the Ponderosa but in beginning of rush hour traffic where people like to drive 20 mph under speed limit, stop at green ligjts, wave 16 cars through four way stop before take their turn and with my hazards plus super bright white flashing job site lights popping drove as fast as traffic allowed which maybe averaged the speed limit.

She was having difficulty with outside water shut off's (have meter, one a couple feet from meter and third just before water line enters house) as she broke her sholder pushing open a restroom door at doctors office last week. Has heavy enough closers I have to lean into them and seen many older people have to get someone to open door for them at the facility happened. With arm in sling and no use of it or hand she could not lift but two of the meter lids using a pry bar but could not turn the big ball valves one handed. Going to find a valve she can spin with two fingers soon as can and swap one of the outdoor shut offs to something she can manage on cane and one handed.

So water spewed in climbing cave for about fifteen minutes before I shut down the water. When remodeled house purposely put mechanical room with hot water heater, HVAC air handler, two main floor bathrooms and kitchen water plus majority of pipe between floor of main level and ceilimg of cave just for this issue as majority of water was piling up against door and soon as opened back basement door majority of water which stayed in the cave began running harmlessly out the door. Had ordered wife not to try and use ladder keep in basement and try to operate valve on inside of wall where water enters house with wet feet and one arm/hand if could not turn valves in yard.

Pulled a panel from ceiling where majority of water seemed to have come to find this.





Turns out as I was turning off water two neighbors asked if had pipe blow as they had. My buddy whose doctors office is 2.5 miles away and between us an new construction had a plumbing pipe blow in office and a issue start spewing water from his fire suppression system. Everyone said it the water surge hit them around 4:30 same time we had the entire end of a 3/4" end cap blow off. Have seen pipes freeze and split, split from age, fittings fail for myriad of reasons but never seen an end cap like this blow end off like it did. Pulled face off fuse panel to make suRe no water got past my water seal system installed around it and inside plus wires feeding it were 100% dry. Cut, cleaned and glued a new end cap on. Restored power to house and let glue cure for 90 minutes as wasn't sure if it would pop again or something else would blow when turned water back on.

Had sinks on and lowest exterior hose bib cracked open a tad to bleed air in system while turned water on. Once pipes were bled and waited 20 minutes to see if anything else would blow took a shower and noticed water pressure was way higher than had ever been. Went downstairs and adjusted pressure regulator to drop house water pressure. Neighbors and friend 2.5 miles away all say their water pressure is horribly high and one said had leaks everywhere once fixed pipe that blew and plumber was at their house till midnight fixing all issues.

We keep almost enough plumbing fittings and pipe to replumb house at all times. Nothing worse than a busted pipe or fitting at 3am and nothing to repair it then doing without water. Oddly this is third fitting to blow since water department began installing new mains, neighbors have had more issues than can count and next door had to replumb entire house last year and they had a fitting bust yesterday. My buddies medical office has had six pipes bust to surges and overpressure in past 18 months. We all called water department who admitted bringing our new water main to feed four lane and our road yesterday between four and five pm. Said had over a dozen similar reports but not their problem as water main pressure does not exceed stamdards. In long run having more water to hydrants and streets as more stuff is built plus water running in new mains will be good in long run but the short term hurts.

If going to have major plumbing leak the room built from 3/4" AC exterior plywood is absolute best place to have it happen. Plumbed the entire house from meter to new faucets when purchased house 26 years ago. Have two plumbers coming to bid replumbing again as in 26 years will be 81 years old and going to have it done with schedule 80 pipe instead of schedule 40 pipe this go round so it's a two lifetime durable job.



Mechanical room is behind the two steel poles so keeps majority of water systems in this a area and washer/dryer is across from mechanical room against exterior wall.



Keep plumbing and electrical supplies on hand before issues arise rather than wait on professional vendors to open next business day.
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Old October 12, 2018, 19:21   #170
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Had an opportunity to test some of the batch of bronze tint Lexan MR10 against a threat not rated for. Have tested against 9mm ball, 357 Mag, 45 acp and other handgun rounds. I am using this as my first layer of ballistic protection on all ground floor windows and high threat windows have a second layer of clear behind it. Have posted specs of this stuff earlier in this thread. Purchased a pallet load of it precut, marked with certifications for U.L. ballistic protection and uze as automotive glass. Windshields of NASCAR vehicles use this same product in clear and thinner thickness. It was shipped to an armored coach company that made armored trucks for cash transfer to be used as rear armored door glass used two pieces in a double paned system.

Now wife can open blinds during the day and see outside with minimal tint and distortion but it's almost impossible for someone to see in during daylight. Only at night if forget to close blinds and turn lights on backlighting us can people see through. Have been curious to see how it would react to 7.62x39 to commando cartridge of the cheap who swap on a plastic folding stock, hack some sort of $39 scope on with duct tape or stamped sheet metal mount and assume they are top shelf operators come zombie apocalypse. Not disrespecting AK's or other combloc rifles, just crappily accessorized ones as wife and I love our SKS's that have the Huey Tune done to them. We also realize if real zombies show up the x39's are for close slow targets or when the good rifles finally run out of ammo and we still won't be lobbing any Wolf or Tula commercial ammo from AK's or SKS's.

NIJ Level II panel (single not paired as intended or as used in our home)



You will see it was shot three times and the distance was 25 yards. The two big fat touching holes were my mild 160 grain cast gas check bullets loaded with Reloader 7 which cycle all our combloc rifles and are accurate as need out to 75 yards as in pick which eyeball. The hard cast cooked through like it was free. Fired one round of Tula had to borrow as don't own any and it did spit a portion of core through but jacket and largest portion of lead core fell in front of the Lexan. What little bit spit through would have at best been a clean wound treated with a Band-Aid. The last hold was an aftermarket U.S. made incendiary AP and it bored right through creating enough heat as it did to bubble a significant area on back side from hitting target.



Can see rear side and how cleanly the 160 grain hard cast blew through and that I should not have held same point of aim as almost went through same hole. Aimed same spot, center of test scrap with all rounds expecting them to disperse from their differences and being commie bullets. Can see how the Tula barely hurt it and how the incendiary AP really left a rash on exit side.



Laying flat get a good perspective combined with other pictures to show how anemic the Walmart ammo is and hope the roaving hoards are stockpiled with the stuff. Didn't bother to try any of my Russian, Yugo or Chinese steel core. It's always amazing how well hard cast bullets do with bullet resistant polycarbonate. Have 9mm, 357 Mag and 45 acp cast bullets that will punch this level of polycarbonate while none or very few of the super hot high dollar defensive rounds of the day will.somsfhinv about ball and especially fast expanding xecensive ammo barely dents the stuff.

While know only a few of our windows are rifle threat rated fact that all ground floor windows have a layer of this bronze that stops all NIJ Level II rounds backed up by an even tougher clear product called Makralon Hyzod that is NIJ IIIa. Going to test some panels soon with the two in tandem to see how deal with different rifle threats but honestly think Wolf and Tula x39 will be their limit even in tandem. Rifle bullets need a lot of polycarbonate to stop them and these folks with 1.5" thick acrylic are going to hate life as bullets and sharp shards of acrylic pass through their bodies.

Got a call from my steel salesman and said had a dozen 1/4"x14"x60" drops of AR 400 steel at their location where run the CNC plasma cutter could sell me for mixed scrap price plus delivery charge of $40. 14" will fit perfectly between studs on a 16" center if don't use for something else will end up in a wall about to install a new window as the original window from 1959 construction with lots of character has become a maintenance nightmare, leaked and going to have to replace. Plan to pull the drywall and replace four feet either side of window plus above and below. Had planned on using 1/2" ballistic fiberglass instead of drywall at $900 per sheef for 1/2" NIJ Level IIIa but if shoehorn 1/4" AR 400 between each stud to the five foot mark will use brackets to lock in place, replace insulation and use purple board instead. Between brick outer wall, 1/4" of AR 400 figure crouch so head is not above five feet and that section of walk will suck up NIJ Level III for sure, probably Level IV. Every year do another project or three and house keeps getting tougher.
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Old October 20, 2018, 16:07   #171
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This is not the radar system I purchased but a LIDAR system that was one of the contenders while shopping for a ground radar system. I decided my hacking marine radars was not worth the cost and effort when found a system with 1.2 kilometer range and ability to pick up a crawling human in bushy terrain and woods along with drones and animals while allowing you to filter birds or pets of a certain size, etc for a whopping cost of 6,000 U.S.D. Am still in the wait for my system to be configured, packaged and shipped but bought to protect the business as additional layer over the cameras. Will be able to get alerts to say a human inside the fence to my phone, pull up the radar ping then pick best camera or cameras to see what is up.

Also scored a Homeywell military ground radar for use at forward observation posts with a 2.0 kilometer range and ability to daisy chain radar transmit/receive units for better 360 degree coverage. Just have the one receiver at present and they are popping up fairly often for under $400 needing some work or under $900 per unit guaranteed to work. Of course have to add a couple of other pieces of equipment, costly cabling and a specific ruggedized netbook/laptop with small monitor and jacks for larger monitors. Its not as point and click easy as the FLIR L-1 but it is built to be beat around and man carried or kicked out of a helicopter kind of rugged. Cost of these systems are coning down as most airports and even shopping centers are using them for security and for tracking flow of people.

I got a bid on this but its way more for urban type use and daisy chains a bunch of short range LIDAR units rather than radar but thought folks might like to know while in the mall can be tracked from car to every store and back to car, what sex each target is, their speed and track flow of traffic to better engineer the place to herd people into areas where a product or service is being pushed. It can also be linked to a facial recognition program so as cameras identify a person they LIDAR track knows Joe Smith went to Rat Shack then to SEARS or Sally Mae comes four days a week and wanders the same path so if want to sell her something she doesn't normally shop for that fits her profile where to move a display so she sees it.

I have not shopped the mega high dollar systems but am figuring out that once you swipe a credit card odds are a camera will be entering your facial features into the database and will be able to know you when get out of the car in the parking lot next trip to that shopping center or any others that share data. Take corporate America combined with Big Brother and we will not be doing much without being tracked unless we turn off our cell phones, cut up our credit cards and run totally under the system which I believe would make a person an even bigger target if the system cannot identify you. Either play ball when it doesn't matter but know how to slip the system if need to will be the key but with your in vehicle navigation, cell phone being tracked and now your body just wandering around the mall anonymity is not going to exist long for those who go anywhere even if pay with cash as they will just use your phone instead of credit card to I.D. you.







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Old November 25, 2018, 23:16   #172
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Have a sample roll of new window film inbound. Not only does it cover most of the specifications of 3M Ultra Prestige film they claim applied to regular glass it will stop up to 9mm bullets. It's not hugely expensive and working toward becoming a vendor if it tests as claims.

Quote:
Our bulletproof film aids in security, at 800 Microns thick our film offers a high level of protection against theft and burglary by making the glass shatterproof and difficult to gain access through, even when using a hammer, brick and crowbar for example. It is tested to stop a 9mm bullet and is bomb proof with the ability to prevent the spray of glass shrapnel.

Once the safety film (also known as glass fragmentation film) is applied it will hold the glass together under impact preventing the glass from shattering and causing injury. This is especially useful on large glass table tops and sliding glass doors.

The film is completely see through and offers invisible protection to your family and work colleagues along with protection against the sun as our bulletproof film offers a 99% UV resistance. It has a scratch resistant coating and comes with a ten year warranty.

Key Points:

Anti Shatter - Stops glass from shattering into flying shards.
Protects Occupants - Flying glass is the main cause of injury.
Invisible Protection – Once applied the film is completely clear to the eye
Up to Standard – Brings the glass up to the same safety standard as shatterproof glass.
Step by Step instructions with each order.

UV Protected "No Chalky Appearance - EVER!!!"
Self adhesive back with bubble free technology
Dry lay flat easy installation
High temperature & water resistant
Install Temp: 60F to 80F (16C to 26C)
End Use Temp: 5F to 201F (-20C to 91C)
Easily cleaned with soapy water
Check out our full vinyl collection:

DURABLE
UV PROTECTED
SELF ADHESIVE
AIR FREE
TEXTURED
If it tests to claims I will be selling this stuff cheap enough anyone that doesn't buy it for their windows may be wishing they had some day.
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Old December 07, 2018, 23:46   #173
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Purchased a very nice thin wallet that carried my credit cards, drivers license, CWL/CCW, insurance card and a few paper bills folded between the cards and is thinner than a single stack 1911 magazine and super thin if pair down a few cards lIke business cards when travel. Bought it when first started having back issues as sitting on a fat wallet really adds to back pain. Just under a year ago it blew it's first seam so duct taped it then blew another and kept adding duct tape.

Twice it has since dumped one or several cards from one side as handle at a register. Realized I had not used my AmEx Black Card this year and try to remove from safe, use it once a year for a reasonably large purchase and put back in safe. Yesterday took wife to several stores and at one the wallet dumped several cards including the no limit Black Card and she demanded I buy a new wallet. It's expensive to keep but having access to a card that gets free upgrades to first class and if need can buy a private business jet, hire a pilot, pay to fill it with whatever feel will need and fly to country with no extradition where fall off planet earth after running it for seven to eight figures. A bug out plan in single card tucked in my passport but do not need to be dropping on floor.





So now looking at wallets and wondering what others are using to carry say total of eight cards counting licenses, credit cards and insurance info. Want it to be thin, resistant to RFID sniffing and waterproof. One of my big issues is end of summer day working in hot sun my cash is soaking wet with sweat. Here is are a few options am looking at.

https://bellroy.com/products/hide-an...vD_BwE#image-1

https://www.amazon.com/SlimFold-MICR...ag=hidevour-20

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ctJC2AQgTYI0AY

https://www.amazon.com/Bellroy-Leath...14739182&psc=1

https://www.backcountrygear.com/mini...xoCCogQAvD_BwE

https://www.idstronghold.com/product...hoCEOEQAvD_BwE
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