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Old January 01, 2018, 02:43   #1
Black Blade
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Affordable Vehicles That Can Survive an EMP

Affordable Vehicles That Can Survive an EMP

Option 1: 1979 Jeep CJ5 4×4



Continued: http://www.askaprepper.com/affordabl...n-survive-emp/

Black Blade: Some interesting choices ... I like the Jeep but some others seem quite practical as well.

My old 1976 CJ-7 works for me:

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Old January 01, 2018, 03:43   #2
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Well, both of those should work. I would take the CJ7 over the CJ5 just because it have more room to care gears and in snow the CJ5 are notorious for the back end trying to outrun the front end.

I think an old truck would be better, especially if you get one that has 4 wheel drive. Something like a Jeep J20, Ford High boy, Dodge power wagon, Chevy K20, or a Kaiser M715. I like the 3/4 ton over the 1/2 ton for two reasons: first the carrying capacity is better, second the 3/4 tons have better ground clearance than 1/2 tons. I would also look at anything older than 1975, just to make sure that nothing would be compromised during an EMP event.

I know my 1965 Chevy wasn’t to hard to rewire when I swapped motors from a straight 6 to a V-8. It only took about three hours to figure it out, and that was without the aid of the internet. I do love the fact that there are only about a dozen wires in the whole truck.
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Old January 01, 2018, 04:36   #3
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So the truck survives the EMP; the gas pumps aren't going to and unless you've got a huge stash of gasoline at your place, its nothing more than scrap metal once its empty. Horses on the other hand, while more maintenance intensive, run on renewable fuel...
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Old January 01, 2018, 07:51   #4
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The red Jeep CJ-5 is actually a pre-1972. Shorter length front fenders,top mounted wipers.Gas tank under driver seat,narrower leaf springs.Actually,more likely to survive than a 1979,though do love late ones with the 258 I-6 because they were so reliable and easy to fix. The late ignitions were weird,some motorcraft sorta thing,with a brain box on the inside of the driver side fender. Those you wanted to keep a spare,as they always seemed to die on a weekend.
I had a 78 CJ-7. My first Jeep. 258 with a tremac t-150 trans.It was okay. I did the read diff swap to a Dana 44 flanged axle set up. Problem with 76-on up CJ was the box-style frames. Crap got into them,then rotted them from inside out. You almost never see a 76-up CJ around here,but there are older ones still going. Somebody ended up producing a galvanized replacement frame.

I curious how well ATV ignitions would fair after an EMP. Or how well a vehicle in a metal barn would hold up,vs. one sitting outside.Would clamping your jumper cables from the bumpers to a ground rod help?
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Old January 01, 2018, 08:31   #5
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Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
The red Jeep CJ-5 is actually a pre-1972. Shorter length front fenders,top mounted wipers.Gas tank under driver seat,narrower leaf springs.Actually,more likely to survive than a 1979,though do love late ones with the 258 I-6 because they were so reliable and easy to fix. The late ignitions were weird,some motorcraft sorta thing,with a brain box on the inside of the driver side fender. Those you wanted to keep a spare,as they always seemed to die on a weekend.
I had a 78 CJ-7. My first Jeep. 258 with a tremac t-150 trans.It was okay. I did the read diff swap to a Dana 44 flanged axle set up. Problem with 76-on up CJ was the box-style frames. Crap got into them,then rotted them from inside out. You almost never see a 76-up CJ around here,but there are older ones still going. Somebody ended up producing a galvanized replacement frame.

I curious how well ATV ignitions would fair after an EMP. Or how well a vehicle in a metal barn would hold up,vs. one sitting outside.Would clamping your jumper cables from the bumpers to a ground rod help?
To be effective, a true Faraday cage has NO openings
Electrical charge stays on the outside of metal, if there is any opening, the inside is nothing more than another "outside". IIRC, the critical "size" of the opening is determined by the wavelength of the pulse ? Help me out here, experts
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Old January 02, 2018, 01:26   #6
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affordable?

any of the `70's GM trucks. Mostly the 1/2 ton for least costly. 2wd being the cheapest, 4wd is of course more but still low cost compared to anything else.

Breaker points will take EMP shot and keep going. HEI ignition you might need a spare module and rotor. Both are dirt cheap & easily stored.

conversion from HEI back to points is easy to do.

GM 30 amp alt, you'll want a spare set of diodes & regulator module. Both modules (HEI module & voltage regulator) are solid state (transistor?) not computerized so I don't know how susceptible they are.

Nice thing about those, side saddle tanks. Pull the tank off one side & there's plenty of room for a propane conversion & there's still a 20 gallon gas tank for use on the other side.

`70's models have the advantage of 1rst gen small block, dirt cheap to build, easy to maintain. Turbo 350 trans is anvil reliable.

these trucks are the most common, easiest to get parts for, share commonality of components with a lot of GM from earlier and later years.

I have a `75 3/4 ton 4wd, would not part with it for anything....
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Old January 01, 2018, 08:20   #7
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So the truck survives the EMP; the gas pumps aren't going to and unless you've got a huge stash of gasoline at your place, its nothing more than scrap metal once its empty. Horses on the other hand, while more maintenance intensive, run on renewable fuel...
So, time for an old Mercedes or other mechanical pump diesels?
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Old January 04, 2018, 09:31   #8
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So the truck survives the EMP; the gas pumps aren't going to and unless you've got a huge stash of gasoline at your place, its nothing more than scrap metal once its empty. Horses on the other hand, while more maintenance intensive, run on renewable fuel...
plus, you can eat 'em...
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Old January 04, 2018, 19:04   #9
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plus, you can eat 'em...
Thought only the French did that!
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Old January 04, 2018, 19:13   #10
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I'll bet at least some here have this availability.

If you can make shine you can make fuel.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biodiesel


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So the truck survives the EMP; the gas pumps aren't going to and unless you've got a huge stash of gasoline at your place, its nothing more than scrap metal once its empty. Horses on the other hand, while more maintenance intensive, run on renewable fuel...
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Old January 04, 2018, 20:36   #11
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Why my post EMP vehicles get 80+ mpg if drive them easy. Try to go much over 55 mph for long and drops to 60 to 65 mpg range. My little original 125 cc 1948 model will get 100 mpg if poke along in the 35 to 45 mph speed range. That's on crappy fuel too. Not much for payload and mpg but beats walking or especially running if need to get a few miles and back before the zombies smell a meal in the open.

Have two diesels that will survive but they are not fuel efficient and require a lot of room to manuver. Within hours of EMP unless your able to push box trucks, tractor trailers, lines of dead cars out of your way a truck is only travelling off road. Why have the one diesel 6×6 built for maintaining power lines. Can take to power line cuts and the huge tires and ground clearance will likely travel the power line cuts around here if not already a bunch of lifted pickup trucks broke and stuck bottlenecking even those routes.

Small and nimble may be only way. My little Harley Hummers weigh 200 pounds and are magneto ignition so don't even need a battery. Kick it and go. Magneto even makes enough extra power to run the light if need.
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Old January 15, 2018, 19:50   #12
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Always remember whatever vehicle you choose better have a large stockpile of spare parts and tools. Was reminded today as rolling down interstate and suddenly began hearing noise whenever came of the accelerator pedal and coasting from rear of my favorite work truck.









Pinion bearings puked their guts out and pinion tried to crawl into gears and grenade rear end. Luckily was able to push in clutch, cost to upcoming ramp, call wrecker and before parts house closed had a parts needed ordered to fix. How many have every part in-house for your end of world vehicle? If had to 1990's though late 2000's Dakotas share lots of driveline parts and could scavenge if wanted to keep that truck running. Have a spare set of rotors and pads for all four corners on all trucks, enough filters and fluids for at least two or three services in my parts room at work. I do have a new computer in a Faraday box for the 93 Dakota and the 2001 3/4 ton diesel. Will eventually need them even without EMP as I drive trucks till the axles and entire drive train gives up.

Have enough parts to service all the bikes from the Harley Hummers through the Shovelheads, Evos and Twincam at least three or four times each in garage at house. Like to service bikes regularly and hate having to drive to Harley dealership or independent shop to buy when in the mood to service bikes. Every bike has a spare starter relay, brake pads, spark plugs, plug wires and more in left rear saddle bag. Have swapped more brakes or made minor tweaks on road trips than when home. When rode all the time never knew when an afternoon ride might turn into a vacation. Wife and I left to go on a one night week eked ride and didn't get home for over three weeks. We're on the old bikes and rode Blue Ridge Parkway to end, then Skyline Drive to end, then reversed it to turn toward Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky and had to wrench on a bike almost every evening to keep them 100% happy.

We actually have enough parts to build tjree more each of our end of world vehicles so could fix if break or just assemble another one if need. Have all bearings, seals, rings, etc for engines, wheels, spare brake components, carburetor kits, etc. Cannot think of a single part on my 1948 Harley Hummers or the 1956 Magneto Harley Hummers that do not have two to four of every part including oversize pistons and rings in case need to bore another 0.020, put new rings plus piston and bearings if motor gets tired from lots of use. So whatever vehicle you choose have spare parts.
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Old January 19, 2018, 17:20   #13
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A Volvo C303 would be good, not bad cost wise, parts availability and unlike the Pinzy it's liquid cooled. Very reliable from what I've read about them and spoken to 2 owners. Neat lil units. Even come in 4 or 6 wheel, milspec or civy versions also.
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