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Old June 11, 2019, 15:45   #1
Tak
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Grease / Lube fitting for a Pillow Block Bearing?

My strange question of the week...

Does anyone know what kind of grease / lube fitting is used on this kind of bearing?

Type - E Xtra Heavy Duty Pillow Block bearing



I know zero about this stuff'.

Would it be a generic automotive grease gun like this ?
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Old June 11, 2019, 15:50   #2
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It is called a zerk. Common everywhere.
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Old June 11, 2019, 16:02   #3
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Yes, the grease gun shown in your link will fit the bearing in your picture. The nipple on the top right is commonly called a zerk fitting and is the standard across the country.

The nipple is also called grease fitting, grease nipple, Zerk fitting, or Alemite fitting which is a metal fitting used in mechanical systems to feed lubricants, usually lubricating grease, into a bearing under moderate to high pressure using a grease gun.

Selecting the grease gun and the grease will be your two biggest headaches. First, depending on the orientation and location of the fitting, the large grease gun may not fit into the space around the fitting. So you may need to use a smaller grease gun such as this:



The connector goes straight onto the fitting and locks on. Holding the connector at an angle will allow the grease to flow out of the connector without going into the fitting and ultimately to the bearing. You know when you have enough grease in the bearing when you have clean grease coming out of the bearing. Wipe down all grease afterwards or you will have a mess to clean later.

Selection of the grease is the second decision to make. Select the grease to fit the environment in which the bearing will be operated. Wet environment needs grease to for the wet, hot and cold weather take different greases. The choices are plenty.
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Old June 11, 2019, 16:29   #4
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Aka alemite. A decent all purpose grease should be fine I generally use moly for heavy duty and lithium for the other stuff like the tractor etc. You have to be careful and do not over fill and blow the seal out.
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Last edited by meltblown; June 11, 2019 at 16:44.
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Old June 11, 2019, 16:31   #5
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Thanks guys, I knew one of you fellas would know for sure.

I figured that was it, but never have dealt with this task before.
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Old June 11, 2019, 18:00   #6
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I buy those every so often then build a new roll out wheel. My only use is for rolling out fine looking pipe welds.
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Old June 12, 2019, 07:27   #7
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Remove the zerk and make sure there is a port for the grease to pass into the race. The castings are universal and a lot of times the bearings in them are sealed and don't take grease. I see it with electric motors too.

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Old June 12, 2019, 08:06   #8
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Good call. I had that happen on the last one I worked on.
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Old June 12, 2019, 14:51   #9
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dyed grease is available (blue and red) that indicates when seal is failing by bleeding out and staining. this is used in bearing critical applications. lithium based grease works in most applications.
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Old June 12, 2019, 17:06   #10
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if the bearing isnt 1000 years old and the company/ seller hasnt gone out of business, you can always contact the seller or the mfg and ask what grease they recommend.
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Old June 13, 2019, 04:37   #11
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I sometimes wonder why they stopped using those on cars, replaced with sealed ones. Last longer or the other way around?
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Old June 13, 2019, 05:39   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raubvogel View Post
I sometimes wonder why they stopped using those on cars, replaced with sealed ones. Last longer or the other way around?
If you think about the average driver/operator it makes sense that they now use a sealed bearing. They can barely be responsible for pulling the dipstick and checking coolant levels. Never even enters their mind that they need to do other regular maintenance.

My experience is that the sealed bearings do not last as long. I rarely had to change wheel bearings on skid steers when they had greasable bearings. You had to pull the wheels off to get to the grease fittings but rarely had to change a wheel bearing. Now with the sealed system and 6 machines I have a wheel bearing out once a month. Now I keep a rebuilt hub assembled in the shop and can change out the whole hub in about 35min and the machine can go back to work while the bearings are are changed. It was a lot easier to just pull the wheels and grease the machine!
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