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Old October 21, 2018, 18:42   #1
stimpsonjcat
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Someone's long lost Bowie is getting closer to reality...

You know who you are!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwonnjdhhu...llet.mp4?raw=1


Pattern...

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Old October 21, 2018, 19:14   #2
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That is SO DAMNED BOSS I can't believe it.
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Old October 21, 2018, 21:50   #3
JM
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Just love the forging process for making knives--it captures my attention and draws me in like a moth to a flame.
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Old October 21, 2018, 22:03   #4
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Very cool video.
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Old October 22, 2018, 08:28   #5
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Just love the forging process for making knives--it captures my attention and draws me in like a moth to a flame.




Thanks for all the positive comments. I was really happy with how this came out.
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Last edited by stimpsonjcat; October 22, 2018 at 08:35.
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Old October 23, 2018, 21:43   #6
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I know who I am not challenging to an arm wrastle!!

krf
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Old October 24, 2018, 20:15   #7
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I know who I am not challenging to an arm wrastle!!

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It's not that big, so you might have a chance.


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Old December 02, 2018, 18:20   #8
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Progress on the billet today.

The billet is forward bent, so the blade side is the smaller radius side. The lines are marking where I plan to file in serrations alternating on both sides and then I will forge the blade side back out so it is flat and the billet is in final form. Hopefully that will result in a cool pattern in the Damascus.

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Old December 04, 2018, 21:35   #9
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That went...not as good as I had hoped. The edge did not expand as much as I expected due to the serrations. So I ended up having to force the spine straight.

Shot of wavy pattern on blade edge (not ground at all in this section yet)


Side shot, hard to see the pattern


Other side


Had to stop and make a new door for the forge front to reduce the heat when at the power hammer


and add a heat shield to the shed door and a swinging door to the outboard side...hopefully I can leave the shed door closed now without turning it into charcoal.
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Old December 05, 2018, 09:55   #10
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Yes, you should have put the grooves for your "ladder pattern" in while the blank was still straight and thicker.
Think about making the end caps of your forge out of soft fire brick. Better heat retention on the inside and also configurable for opening size and can allow for long parts to pass through if needed. It also provides insulation and prevents radiant heat from igniting things like your shed door. On my forge, I made a shelf to support the bricks and a frame to hold them in place that I can tighten up by using nuts on threaded rod to keep them in place. The bricks do wear at the opening from stuff going in and out but are easily replaced. Another handy feature for the forge is a horizontal rail a few inches in front of the opening. I made one from angle iron and drilled a series of holes in it that I can drop a L shaped piece of stock into. A knife blank or other object can then be held in place during the heat by dropping the L shaped piece over the welded on rod of your blank and through the hole in the angle iron. Or it can just rest on the angle iron.
While I haven't done it yet, I have plans (and the materials) to make a chain curtain at the opening of my forge. This also helps to keep heat inside where it belongs and reduces the radiant heat to the operator.
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Old December 05, 2018, 10:30   #11
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What I should have done is not bend it as much as I did before cutting the scallops. It did bend back, just not as much as I anticipated.

My experience so far is that grinding/drilling/milling the patter too soon in the refinement process can cause a loss of distinct pattern sometimes. Particularly with raindrop. Twist is obviously immune to this.

Next up is to hack the extra material off the back and then forge it to shape. I will probably use my old 'smithin magician' for that to get better control than the power hammer or my calibrated arm has.
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Old December 07, 2018, 17:38   #12
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Layout design...lots of swarf was cogitated before I finally figured out a layout I was happy with.

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Old December 07, 2018, 18:33   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazz View Post
Think about making the end caps of your forge out of soft fire brick. Better heat retention on the inside and also configurable for opening size and can allow for long parts to pass through if needed. It also provides insulation and prevents radiant heat from igniting things like your shed door.
I have a moveable piece of soft fire brick coated in ITC100 that I move in and out of the outboard end depending on the size of the piece I am heating. It also prevents damage to any burners I am not using. The door side half door also has this on the inside. The new door is just used at idle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazz View Post
On my forge, I made a shelf to support the bricks and a frame to hold them in place that I can tighten up by using nuts on threaded rod to keep them in place. The bricks do wear at the opening from stuff going in and out but are easily replaced. Another handy feature for the forge is a horizontal rail a few inches in front of the opening. I made one from angle iron and drilled a series of holes in it that I can drop a L shaped piece of stock into. A knife blank or other object can then be held in place during the heat by dropping the L shaped piece over the welded on rod of your blank and through the hole in the angle iron. Or it can just rest on the angle iron.
Pics? I usually just light the center burner if I have a long piece that needs the end heated.
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