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Old July 10, 2018, 10:36   #1
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7.62x39 spam can questions

What is the status of the surplus spam can 7.62x39 ammuntion; is it corrosive? I have seen green spam cans and silver/galvanized looking spam cans all that appear to have Russian writing on them. Are any or all of these corrosive?
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Old July 10, 2018, 10:45   #2
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It's going to depend on the make. I have a can of Tula. it's non corrosive.
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Old July 10, 2018, 10:57   #3
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I heard a lot of it is not really surplus, just ammo intended for the commercial market with the spam can as just being for the cool factor so a lot is noncorrosive.
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Old July 11, 2018, 18:45   #4
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Originally Posted by Incognito View Post
What is the status of the surplus spam can 7.62x39 ammuntion; is it corrosive? I have seen green spam cans and silver/galvanized looking spam cans all that appear to have Russian writing on them. Are any or all of these corrosive?
Dpoes it matter if it is corrosive? Just clean your gun accordingly and you will be fine. The last spam can of 7.62x39 was packaged by Wolf.
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Old July 11, 2018, 21:24   #5
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Dpoes it matter if it is corrosive? Just clean your gun accordingly and you will be fine. The last spam can of 7.62x39 was packaged by Wolf.
Well, I shot a couple mags worth of Bulgarian 5.45 surplus through my InterArms Tantal. They were the first corrosive rounds I'd shot in it. I cleaned the rifle with Ballistol and found that I really did have to pay more attention to detail than when shooting NC ammo. Even though I thought I was being plenty obsessive about getting everywhere, next day I found a bit of rust bloom under the muzzle brake that I had missed. Compared to shooting non-corrosive, it seemed like a pain in the ass. I'd dread cleaning a more complicated weapon of corrosive salts.
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Old July 12, 2018, 09:29   #6
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Dpoes it matter if it is corrosive? Just clean your gun accordingly and you will be fine. The last spam can of 7.62x39 was packaged by Wolf.
Clean an AK? I don't understand.

But seriously, I just made up my mind a long time ago that I am not going to shoot corrosive ammunition through any of my guns. I also don't shoot steel case ammunition in anything but my 7.62x39. Its worth it to me to pay more for ammo and protect my collection of firearms that I expect to last my lifetime and beyond. Having said that, I do try to get the best price on ammo that I can, especially for just practicing or having fun. I just wanted to know if these spam cans fit my criteria or not.
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Old July 12, 2018, 14:03   #7
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If I shoot corrosive ammo, I just take apart the gun and take it in the shower with me.

But seriously, hot soapy water is all you need to neutralize the corrosive salts. I clean it as usual and then hold it under the shower head. Just dry it well and oil it up well after you're done.
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Old July 12, 2018, 14:32   #8
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But seriously, hot soapy water is all you need to neutralize the corrosive salts. I clean it as usual and then hold it under the shower head. Just dry it well and oil it up well after you're done.
I've been using just hot water to clean my milsurp bold guns after shooting corrosive. I take a thermos full to my range and pour it down the barrel from the chamber. I also clean the boltface and chamber area of the receiver this way and finish up with some Ed's Red or Breakfree. I've never had a single instance of rust that way either.

I believe plain cold water would work too but that hot water evaporates more quickly. Lot's of ways to skin that cat!
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Old July 12, 2018, 14:42   #9
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Well, I shot a couple mags worth of Bulgarian 5.45 surplus through my InterArms Tantal. They were the first corrosive rounds I'd shot in it. I cleaned the rifle with Ballistol and found that I really did have to pay more attention to detail than when shooting NC ammo. Even though I thought I was being plenty obsessive about getting everywhere, next day I found a bit of rust bloom under the muzzle brake that I had missed. Compared to shooting non-corrosive, it seemed like a pain in the ass. I'd dread cleaning a more complicated weapon of corrosive salts.
Properly cleaning your firearm is part of the game. If you shoot, you have to clean.
Ballistol is good stuff and it will take care of the corrosive element in the corrosive ammo. But I find that it works better if it is diluted with water. I dilute the Ballistol with water and put it in a spray bottle and soak my Cowboy guns down with it when I shoot black powder. My normal go to cleaner is CorrosionX.

If you do your part, corrosive ammo is a moot issue. They only time I have ever had a problem with corrosive is when I got lazy cleaning one of my SKSs after shooting Yugo x39 ammo. That is, with out a doubt, the best X39 on the market but it is VERY corrosive. I missed a spot on the barrel by the gas port. I got the gun out several months after I had cleaned it and there was rust in that area. I got my CorrosionX out and cleaned the rust off. Fortunately, there was no pitting.

But if you are not willing to properly take the gun apart and clean it as it should be cleaned after shooting corrosive, then corrosive ammo in not for you. I clean all of my guns regardless of what I shoot like it is corrosive. And, I have a rule of thumb. If it is combloc ammo, I consider it corrosive with the exception of Wolf or what ever name they are selling as now.
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Old July 20, 2018, 23:20   #10
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Corrosive ammo leave SALTS in the bore. Warm water and dish detergent is your friend, along with a cleaning rod.

Left uncleaned, the salts soak up humidity, and will rust a non chrome bore in a heartbeat.

I did it once two years ago.

I test fired an 03A3, with brand new bbl that I had sitting around for 25 years.
I did not realize that I had shot Korean corrosive ammo (with the K headstamp).
The bore was totally shit after a week. I had only fired 5 rounds.

I got a same date bbl all over again. The old bbl is only good for reboring to 35 Whelen now.
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Old July 23, 2018, 10:08   #11
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I'm grateful for my ginormous stainless steel sink in the garage right next to the tankless natural gas water heater. Everything gets broke down and hosed with water so hot I have to use special insulated gauntlets for protection..
This setup led me to discover the " hot barrel CLP effect". It does not seem to matter how much I brush and patch a bore thinking it's clean if I hit that sucker up with scalding water and then hit it with CLP the nastiest slime comes out.
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