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Old November 24, 2018, 20:49   #1
Idflatwater
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L1A1 builtbut wonít fully cycle

I just put this rifle together and it wonít fully cycle. Iíve tried several different mil spec 150 gr loads and it just doesnít fully cycle. Iíve check the gas hole and itís to spec. Iíve closed the gas port to 0 and no luck. The brass isnít sticking in the chamber itís easy enough to eject by hand. The gas rod will cycle the action if I use a dowel and run it down. To manually cycle action it does seem a little harder than my other rifles. Could it be the recoil spring in the stock is to stiff Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old November 24, 2018, 21:32   #2
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First thing I'd do is check how easily the carrier (with bolt) runs front-to-back in the receiver. Separate the upper/lower and hold the upper muzzle down on the floor, hold the BCG by the rattail, and hand-run it down into the receiver. Any binding? Does it feel like it's catching anywhere? Are the carrier rails lubed well? Check to see if it's catching on the ejector block; some of the 2016 limited run Brit cut receivers had that issue. Speaking of, what receiver is it you're using?

Also, check to see if the gas block is properly aligned with the receiver. A dowel may flex just enough to mask an issue where the harder gas piston will not properly slide, due to being mis-aligned or the piston being bent. I've had that issue with an StG (the piston was actually bent, in that case). Is your gas tube rigid to the block? Or does it have a little wiggle? It should turn a little, with a hard 'stop' in each direction.

If those two tests pass, I'd pull the recoil springs out to see if it's all gummed up with crud in the spring tube. Sometimes, even though they are counter-wound, the recoil springs can bind up a bit, and a bunch of dirt and grease in the recoil tube can make that worse. Give those areas a good look, and post back with your findings. We'll get you running right...
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Old November 24, 2018, 22:50   #3
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Ok it’s a old century arms receiver my friend found under about ten years of collecting. The bolt and bolt carrier travel very smothly no stick spots at all. The gas rod was new, I’m guessing no carbon marks at all. I also tried another gas rod from another L1A1 and didn’t make any difference. The ejector isnt interfering with anything.

The gas tube has a little play maybe .004”. Not much. The piston slides freely with no drag. This a ever clean parts kit. I’ll dig into the recoil spring in the morning.

Last edited by Idflatwater; November 24, 2018 at 23:01.
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Old November 24, 2018, 23:25   #4
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Well that's a heckuva thing. Yes, check out the recoil/return springs; also, check fit on the gas plug. If the plug fitment is a bit too loose, that could be a source of gas escaping... as it could if the gas tube is too loose...
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Old November 25, 2018, 09:58   #5
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open gas port to .106"

If that doesn't work, try .110"

measure piston head at .4300-.0005.

If a CAI maybe an FA 2 piece (shit) piston, but you said you'd tried a different one.
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Old November 25, 2018, 11:27   #6
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Had one recently with the same issue. Discovered the gas tube pin wasn't quite snug enough in the gas block hole, and backed out just enough to allow the tube to leak. Installed a larger diameter { roll } pin and it now runs as it should.
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Old November 26, 2018, 00:58   #7
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Short stroke

Pull the butt , scrub the recoil tube and replace the springs.
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Old November 27, 2018, 11:00   #8
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I checked the recoil spring and it was clean and clear. I even used another lower and that didnít make a difference. It has to be in the gas block to the tube or the pin. Iíll check out better when I get a chance.
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Old November 27, 2018, 12:16   #9
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Any chance it has an old Century two piece gas piston? Easy check before you open the gas port. Also does the gas piston move freely?
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Old December 01, 2018, 13:34   #10
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I stumped. Only once could I get it to full cycle and that was with the port shut down to 0. Opened the gas port to .110Ē. Changed gas tubes measured the old piston and replace with a .002Ē bigger piston. Changed gas tube locking lug. Piston moves freely. Changed lowers with no luck. It has to be a lack of gas. When I shoot the ammo out of my other L1A1 I have the gas port on 7 and throws the brass 15í.
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Old December 01, 2018, 14:03   #11
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You did open the port through the gas block to the barrel, right? not the regulator port? Just askin'
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Old December 01, 2018, 16:26   #12
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Yes I did open it up in the gas block to the barrel. I just shot it in the grenade position to if it has a sticky chamber and then shot one thru my other highly functioning L1A1. It took a far amount of effort to eject the spent case but even more thru the functions L1A1. I even shot some heavier bullets with no luck. I’m stumped.

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Old December 01, 2018, 16:35   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idflatwater View Post
Changed gas tube locking lug.

What is this? Never heard of it.


How long is and how does the gas tube pin fit the hole? Is it much shorter than the bore it fills? Does the pin need to be tapped into place or will it pass through with little effort?

How loose/tight does the gas piston head fit into the gas tube?

Is there sign of gas leaking around the gas block/barrel fitment?
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Old December 01, 2018, 18:03   #14
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gas

Check around the gas plug for a leak. I had one leaking there and fixed it with yellow teflon tape. I'ts designed for higher temp. You can also tape the gas tube threads to eliminate any possibility of a leak there. by doing these two things you've likely eliminated a gas problem. since you've tried two lowers you pretty well know it isn't a spring so the only thing left is a bolt/carrier receiver issue of some kind.

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Last edited by boman; December 01, 2018 at 19:28.
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Old December 02, 2018, 15:19   #15
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Originally Posted by hkshooter View Post
What is this? Never heard of it.


How long is and how does the gas tube pin fit the hole? Is it much shorter than the bore it fills? Does the pin need to be tapped into place or will it pass through with little effort?

How loose/tight does the gas piston head fit into the gas tube?

Is there sign of gas leaking around the gas block/barrel fitment?
The gas tube pin is shorter than it has to be and goes in with a gentle tap of a punch. Iíll replace it itís about the only thing I havenít swapped out.

The gas piston is tight but moves freely.

Maybe I should take it to the range and site it in and then any gas leaks should be more obvious.
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Old December 02, 2018, 17:54   #16
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A 5/64" drill bit shortened down to 13/32" works great for the gas tube pin.
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Old December 04, 2018, 05:45   #17
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I fought the same problem for a long time and finally found that I was loosing gas around the gas tube pin which was quite loose. I replaced it with a roll pin, making sure the pin slot was facing down. Cured the problem.
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Old December 09, 2018, 13:22   #18
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My gas tube pin was short so put a longer one in with no luck. Finally I Teflon taped the heck out of the gas tube and it functioned fine. Iím not feeling so confident in that for a final fix. I think my gas block has loose threads not the tube. What is the best way to fix it with out replacing the gas block? Thank you everyone for your time and advise.
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Old December 09, 2018, 13:47   #19
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Are the bolt and carrier moving at all? Is the gas plug turned to the correct side?
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Old December 10, 2018, 08:06   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idflatwater View Post
My gas tube pin was short so put a longer one in with no luck. Finally I Teflon taped the heck out of the gas tube and it functioned fine. Iím not feeling so confident in that for a final fix. I think my gas block has loose threads not the tube. What is the best way to fix it with out replacing the gas block? Thank you everyone for your time and advise.
Open the end of the gas tube a few thou. That should help it mate to the thread better.

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Old December 14, 2018, 12:40   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idflatwater View Post
My gas tube pin was short so put a longer one in with no luck. Finally I Teflon taped the heck out of the gas tube and it functioned fine. Iím not feeling so confident in that for a final fix. I think my gas block has loose threads not the tube. What is the best way to fix it with out replacing the gas block? Thank you everyone for your time and advise.
Cool glad you found the leak. If you want a permanent fix silver solder it. Don't need to replace the block. Just make sure tube is lined up properly. you can also just shoot it with the tape and if it starts to leak again always do the solder thing.

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Old December 14, 2018, 16:46   #22
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You could machine back the face of the gas tube so that the tube is screwed up finger tight against the gas block and aligns to fit the securing pin.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Idflatwater View Post
My gas tube pin was short so put a longer one in with no luck. Finally I Teflon taped the heck out of the gas tube and it functioned fine. Iím not feeling so confident in that for a final fix. I think my gas block has loose threads not the tube. What is the best way to fix it with out replacing the gas block? Thank you everyone for your time and advise.
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Old December 14, 2018, 18:22   #23
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What Vince said, I use a taper punch and work ti by hand. If you solder the tube in place, you'll need to shorten it first.
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Old December 14, 2018, 19:43   #24
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File a little off the thread end of the gas tube to get to some fresh threads. You may need to use a round file to file out the U notches so the port isn't blocked. Be sure to screw the gas tube all the way in but don't force it. Then screw the gas tube out until the holes line up for the pin, there should be a little rotational play in the tube when finished.
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Old December 17, 2018, 07:51   #25
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I swelled the threaded end of my gas tubes by .004Ē so it fits nice a snug and Teflon taped it well. It still wouldnít fully cycle. I donít know why it cycled twice before and not now. I wonder if I have a bad chamber or throat and Iím not getting a good seal in the chamber and gas is being lost there. I measured the spent case and it mics .005Ē to .01Ē larger than my other cases from my other Fal and L1A1. The brass mics about the same as cases from one of my bolt guns. Idk what to think.
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Old December 17, 2018, 08:47   #26
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A Holistic approach before butchery?

How are the rails, are they still thick with paint or coated in any way? Have you tried firing without the dust cover, have you tried another extractor, or polished the chamber yet - newly assembled heh, I would suspect something impinging, rather than not enough gas, as of yet - does the ejector block seem seated correctly, lubed up or dry rails - any unusual rail wear as if EB was off? Could be your rails are tight for your carrier - just a smidge! Could be a few things adding up to a failure to cycle, try multiple mags - try manually cycling a couple of hundred times, paying attention to inspecting the rails, oil and clean, repeat, Polishing the rails perhaps - a break in, as it were - smoothness.
If that doesn't work, send it to GP or drill the gas block yourself!
A bunch of new and old parts! - the chances of them working together first time is optimistic at best but not necessarily realistic - massaging, always seems to do the body good tho', loosening up the joints! Going under the knife, in anyway - is a last resort!
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Old December 17, 2018, 11:23   #27
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Did you try a different gas plug yet?

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Old December 18, 2018, 08:19   #28
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You are leaving the gas tube a bit lose? Or are you tightening it down?

If it ran once you are on the right track.

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