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Old August 07, 2019, 19:31   #51
Jarhead504
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Its very easy to make a mini into the same 2.5" gun a 'good' fal is capable of being.
Brother yovinny: A real question for you:

WHERE can I find out HOW to make a Mini-14 a "2.5" gun", especially the part whereby "its very easy". I would truly appreciate any help with this as I am still the owner of (3) stock Mini's. I have considered getting rid of them more than once but my oldest kid insists we keep them and I was thinking they would be useful to my daughters.

Scoping them will be my next series of questions, but for now, I would just like to make them more accurate than they are reputed to be.

Respectfully,

Jarhead
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Old August 07, 2019, 20:06   #52
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Originally Posted by Jarhead504 View Post
Brother yovinny: A real question for you:

WHERE can I find out HOW to make a Mini-14 a "2.5" gun", especially the part whereby "its very easy". I would truly appreciate any help with this as I am still the owner of (3) stock Mini's. I have considered getting rid of them more than once but my oldest kid insists we keep them and I was thinking they would be useful to my daughters.

Scoping them will be my next series of questions, but for now, I would just like to make them more accurate than they are reputed to be.

Respectfully,

Jarhead

IIRC, Mine was as easy as bedding the stock, shortening and crowning the barrel, remounting the sight and adding a muzzle device,,,plus a trigger job.
But its most likely been close to 20yrs since I did mine and Im sure there is more info and probably newer, better ways today.
IIRC, the site or forum you want and can find out what works, all the tricks, etc, is 'perfect union',,,unless my memory is faulty or somebody else knows of another thats better.

I owned a few minis back in the 80's and finally gave them up for better things..
Tried a mini 30 when they came out, but didnt fair much better.
Finally ended up with another after a complicated trade deal and tried to make it better,,,which I still own and am more than happy with for what it is.

If you like working on guns and dont mind altering or modifying stuff, give it a shot, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised,,,

Cheers, yv
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Old August 07, 2019, 21:27   #53
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Found this article

https://www.offthegridnews.com/self-...how-to-fix-it/
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Old August 08, 2019, 07:47   #54
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All of my Mini 14's shoot at least as well as most FAL's. Also have a few with Accu Struts to reduce barrel harmonics and tuned triggers that shoot well. Have two total custom builds thaf shoot sub MOA and one is a 6.8 picked up so would not have to mess with my NIB 6.8. Very few factory rifles collapse as small as a Ruger GB Factory Folder. My AC556 is a whole lotta fun when hit the fun switch. Got to have a few of everything.
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Old August 08, 2019, 10:32   #55
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Originally Posted by Jarhead504 View Post
Brother yovinny: A real question for you:

WHERE can I find out HOW to make a Mini-14 a "2.5" gun", especially the part whereby "its very easy". I would truly appreciate any help with this as I am still the owner of (3) stock Mini's. I have considered getting rid of them more than once but my oldest kid insists we keep them and I was thinking they would be useful to my daughters.

Scoping them will be my next series of questions, but for now, I would just like to make them more accurate than they are reputed to be.

Respectfully,

Jarhead
Jarhead,
I did my mini 14 updates about 10 years ago. However, do some searching around YouTube. Search for mini14 trigger jobs, and glass bedding a mini14.

The glass bedding job and trigger job videos were put out there by I want to say Great Western Gunsmithing...haven't seen those pop up recently. But, they may still be out there. However, I am sure there are others if you look around.

I recently saw a trigger job video that was narrated by a real tool that goes by the name of NUTNFANCY, but he filmed his gunsmith doing the job and had him explain the job as he did it. He used the same method as the original video that I used. I know that one is still out there. Just ignore the bullshit comments by the guy making the video.

Google Accustrut, I'm sure they are still out and for sale.

My rifle isn't a Ranch Rifle, so my scope base is a one piece unit that replaced the rear site of my rifle. I know, I know...no irons...it is a trade off. I don't recall the manufacturer though. Personally, I'd steer clear of side mounting scope mounts. I had one from BSquare once, and it was an aluminum POS that mounted my scope so high I couldn't get good cheek weld even with a pad.

I just found the manufacturer of the scope base that I used. S&K insta-mount is the name. I bought it through Brownells.

Good luck brother.
Randy
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Last edited by Randall; August 08, 2019 at 22:09. Reason: added the manufacturer of the scope base
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Old August 08, 2019, 11:03   #56
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All of my Mini 14's shoot at least as well as most FAL's. Also have a few with Accu Struts to reduce barrel harmonics and tuned triggers that shoot well. Have two total custom builds thaf shoot sub MOA and one is a 6.8 picked up so would not have to mess with my NIB 6.8. Very few factory rifles collapse as small as a Ruger GB Factory Folder. My AC556 is a whole lotta fun when hit the fun switch. Got to have a few of everything.
Were you able to measure the before and after accuracy with the accu-strut?

I still haven't found more than anecdotal evidence about their usefulness.
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Old August 08, 2019, 20:07   #57
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Were you able to measure the before and after accuracy with the accu-strut?

I still haven't found more than anecdotal evidence about their usefulness.
Me either which is why I am just ordering the replacement gas bushing kit to reduce action-cycling-gas-pressure first, bed the action and bbl second and see what happens.

https://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.c...ushing-Kit.php


For the life of me, I cannot rationalize what the strut does that bedding alone wouldn't almost completely take care of.

As a matter of fact, we actually made a truss/strut similar to the one for the mini-14 on an FAL.

What we found was that as the rifle got hotter, the bbl length increased and the stiff/cold truss caused the bbl to bend skyward sending bullets 6 feet higher at 120 yards.

The truss/strut on the mini is mounted underneath and unless it allows the bbl to slide through it as it elongates then the POI is going to drive downwards after repeated firings.
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Old August 08, 2019, 20:11   #58
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Handled a SS on wood '584' series mini in .223 today and the bbl is thicker and tapers forward of the gas block and the trigger is about 5 lbs but breaks like glass - zero creep, just apply pressure and then it breaks.

I bought it.

Will post my findings later as time and ability permit.

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Old August 08, 2019, 20:20   #59
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The ONE thing that made me buy this rifle over all other factors is: "it is dead-nuts-reliable".

It goes bang, every time.

That means to me that it rarely if ever suffers from breakages that stop the show until you source new parts.

What breaks on a mini-14?

Please tell me.
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Old August 08, 2019, 21:56   #60
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The ONE thing that made me buy this rifle over all other factors is: "it is dead-nuts-reliable".
It goes bang, every time.
That means to me that it rarely if ever suffers from breakages that stop the show until you source new parts.
What breaks on a mini-14?
Please tell me.
The only thing I have had to replace was the bolt hold open mechanism, and honestly, I could have probably gotten away with some judicious grinding.
Everything else has been quite stable. I did buy a second 5 round magazine, but that was only because I got tired or reloading the only magazine I was using.

I never did replace my gas bushings, but I did re-torque all screws to match on the gas system. I read that differences in torque could cause issues with accuracy...though, I don't know how true that is.
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Old August 08, 2019, 23:20   #61
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Thanks, Randall.

This rifle could actually be coined as "The American AK-47" . . .

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Old August 09, 2019, 10:15   #62
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Easy way:
Add Accustrut, adjustable gas block or just retorque factory gas block screws to 30 inch/pounds (most minis are in a bind due to these screws being tightened by feel and not torqed, polish op rod, send trigger to Accuracy Systems www.mini14triggers.com and properly glass bed the action without permanently gluing it into the stock as Ruger always has a lot of slop so actions drop easily into stocks. They are into making a reliable rifle as fast as they can. Slow down, hand fit all parts and upgrade a few and no reason for them not to shoot like a baby M1a Super Match. The Accustrut plus home brew trigger job done on a Power Custom hammer & Sear Jig, op rod polish and bedding usually knocks group size in half for me or better and takes two long evenings.

At that point adding a custom barrel and let professionals that do it daily is about all I can recommend for ultimate accuracy and with a good stiff custom barrel the Accustrut is not needed. Accuracy Systems will install a Kreiger barrel, bed, do gas block and trigger with a 1/2 MOA guarantee if want to spend some bucks. My custom 6.8 shoots 5/8" five shot groups from the magazine and have not tied to work up a custom load for it yet. Minis will shoot, just have to decide if want to dive in for better gun yourself or send off for near perfect. There are other companies that can accomplish the work as well

I can do Mini 14 triggers but by time I order lightened hammer, hammer strut, hammer spring, shims (keep in stock for quick Mini trigger jobs) install take up screw and over travel screw time involved and parts are more than paying the pros. I can square and hone critical parts, shim everything needing it and slap one back together with a new trigger spring and hammer strut which helps a lot but falls way short of a real precision trigger job and when I want my Mini trigger right ito goes off while I am doing the rest of the work.

The Brownells way to do it: https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=12840
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Old August 10, 2019, 00:53   #63
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Thanks Huey!

Got all of that in mind as I go forward on this adventure . . .

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Old August 11, 2019, 14:36   #64
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Are older mini14gb models more carefully/better made than standard minis? Iíve read the gb tends to be more accurate.
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Old August 11, 2019, 16:52   #65
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The State of Tennessee Department of Corrections (Prisons) use them, the GB version. Out of over 200 of them I have shot, NONE of them will group. That is why the officers qualify with them at 25 yards! Even at that little range about a quarter of the officers have to try more than once to qualify!

As to the .308 version Ruger tried to put out, they were an abortion waiting to happen with 'rumors' of test guns blowing up.

Model 77 bolt gun, I like it. Ruger pistols I like them. Ruger 10-22 I LOVE it.

Ruger semi auto rifle anything other than the 10-22 .........PIECE OF SHIT you are welcomed to!
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Old August 11, 2019, 18:22   #66
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Have a "few" GB factory folders including blue steel, stainless along with a 13" barrel AC-556 all with bayonet lugs and M7 bayonets. I feel it's one of the best folding stock designs ever. It's also amazing how much the accuracy can be improved in an evening with a few basic tools. Have seen Mini 14's that would not sight in at all then carefully loosen and tighten the gas block screws till gas block has a consistent gap and all torqued the same. Have pulled a rifle printing several inches left or right of target on zero just properly setting up the gas block. I start with 30 inch/pounds but will find group size changes with torque value. Some will shoot best at 34 inch/pounds and can literally watch the groups open or close as torque changes. Never exceed 36 inch/pounds or may likely find yourself with a shake off screw.

Mini-14's may have the worst assembly line quality control of any popular rifle on the market. Stocks have such huge holes so actions drop in without any effort or fitting as do 10/22's. If a person learns what to do and just properly tighten the screws, set up their rifle, shim or bed the action, home massage the trigger or have it professionally done they can be turned into fine shooters. Anyone who says they won't group at 25 yards want to stand on the muzzle end of mine at 250 yards? Even my 13" AC-556 in three shot burst will lay those three shots in burst mode in a better group than most off the shelf semi auto 16" Ranch Rifles. Just have to understand the nuances of what your buying with any firearm, what has to be done to fix it (even a new $2,000 SCAR has to be fixed out of the box) and impliment the fixes then it's all happy.

When I buy most any rifle have a pile of tasks required to sort it out. Know what has to be done to an M1a out of the box, how to go over a drunken monkey built CETME, make a Mini 14 shoot, build a 10/22 that will drive nails at 100 yards or an AR 15 that will drive nails at 400 yards but reason found this place is still have not sorted out all I need to know about FAL type rifles and still have a huge knowledge gap but learning. If you make a blanket statement like Mimi 14's or whatever won't shoot straight may want to study the issues and learn how to tweak all you can and improve the rifle to its potemtial. My turnbolt smith can spend a month massaging an action and blue printing a rifle to the point he can make it put five rounds in the same hole at 500 yards but you better bring a bag of cash.
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Old August 11, 2019, 18:40   #67
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I disagree with you on one point hueyville

A drunken monkey CETME Is almost beyond redemption
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Old August 12, 2019, 07:42   #68
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I disagree with you on one point hueyville

A drunken monkey CETME Is almost beyond redemption
At least you know are buying a gun assembled by drunken monkeys. Ruger tries to claim quality control and top quality American firearms. An extra 20 minutes training and a few torque wrenches on the line and the Ruger Mini 14 accuracy issues would become almost tolerable for many.

As an FYI, can convert a Mini 14 to a binary fire weapon with a single stape inserted in the fire control system and it's a BATF approved modification. A nickels worth of staples will convert a couple dozen to binary fire then just remove the staple from FCS when finished wasting ammo. It's fun to pop someone's trigger group out, sneak a staple in, run a near full auto mag dump and then fix before returning.
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Old August 16, 2019, 00:03   #69
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I didn't really like the color of the stock that came with the mini-14 rifle I just bought.

I took it outside with a can of brake cleaner to de-grease all the parts and metal liners inside the stock and all the factory finish and stain on the wood stock crumpled up and fell off in the driveway.

So I have stripped/sanded it and am now refinishing it in something that matches my neck color.

Hope this isn't a precursor to things yet to come with this new rifle . . .

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Old August 16, 2019, 14:56   #70
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Look on the bright side, you have just discovered a new and easy way to refinish the Mini stocks! I wonder if that will work on other Ruger stocks? I got a couple 10-22 stocks I want to refinish.

I was wrong earlier about semi auto Ruger rifles I did and did not like. Years ago I shot a semi auto Ruger 44 magnum carbine I liked. Shame is it worked so Ruger decided NOT to make them anymore!

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I didn't really like the color of the stock that came with the mini-14 rifle I just bought.

I took it outside with a can of brake cleaner to de-grease all the parts and metal liners inside the stock and all the factory finish and stain on the wood stock crumpled up and fell off in the driveway.

So I have stripped/sanded it and am now refinishing it in something that matches my neck color.

Hope this isn't a precursor to things yet to come with this new rifle . . .

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Old August 18, 2019, 00:57   #71
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Look on the bright side, you have just discovered a new and easy way to refinish the Mini stocks! I wonder if that will work on other Ruger stocks? I got a couple 10-22 stocks I want to refinish.

I was wrong earlier about semi auto Ruger rifles I did and did not like. Years ago I shot a semi auto Ruger 44 magnum carbine I liked. Shame is it worked so Ruger decided NOT to make them anymore!
Thanks for the encouragement, Dude.

OK, the stock refinishing isn't perfect but good enough for now 3 coats and sanding between - can't seem to get the coating perfectly applied before it starts to dry so, fvck it- If I can turn it into a shooter it will get beat-up anyways.

I have managed to lock-up the action tonight just dry firing it tonight and the angle fit/alignment of the tail-end of the the firing pin got snagged against the place in the receiver that it passes through.

De-burred that and gave it some lube and seems to have cleared up for now.

There is much else to learn about this rifle and I realize now just how full of "What the FVCK!!" it is.

But I keep telling myself, "You asked for a challenge" and take a breath and start on the next thing wrong with it.

Trigger breaks cleanly without any creep but it is very heavy - gotta deal with that later.

I find lateral play of the receiver to stock-fit that I doubt shimming will cure but would probably improve - Looks like a receiver pin bedding job is ultimately on the menu.

Once I shoot it I will be able to take these observations above and apply them to solutions appropriately.

Or so I think . . .




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Old August 18, 2019, 07:53   #72
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Those factory birch stocks are famous for being difficult to get a pleasing refinish on.
Brownells offered a nice replacement blued steel butt plate for the plastic factory piece,,I dont know if they still do though.
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Old August 18, 2019, 22:32   #73
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STOCK REFINISHING/STAINING . . .

Well this turned out OK.

Before de-greasing:



After de-greasing (finish /stain fell off):



After refinishing with home mixed stain blend:



It's too glossy so I'll wait for the urethane to cure before dulling it with a Scotchbrite pad and resealing it.


The stock stain color is really growing on me as it looks different in different lighting conditions running from almost red at times to a light mid-tone brown at others.

I thought I would share my mixture with you so you can experiment.



This is the main component :



I added this at a rate of one (1) tablespoon at a time to the above ^ and tested it on several pieces of raw wood until I arrived at the color I wanted:

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Old August 18, 2019, 22:45   #74
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No, and let's keep it that way.

The Mini was an option when it was $350 and a run of the mill AR15 was $1000, today it cannot compete in any arena.
I know some folks out there like them, but I have to agree here.
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Old August 18, 2019, 23:34   #75
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Should I just stop posting about my having left the heard and gone my own way?

Or would you like to hear of my adventures instead?

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Old August 19, 2019, 06:58   #76
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I love adventure stories Bama Steve
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Old August 19, 2019, 09:19   #77
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Are you planning on adding a accu-strut? Iíd like to see some before & after groups if you do. How far are you going on this adventure?
This thread has rekindled my interest in my mini. I canít decide if I want to flush more money down that toilet.
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Old August 19, 2019, 12:04   #78
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Bama, you are doing GOOD! PLEASE continue.

Now as a Tennessean that Bear Bryant tried to recruit I feel I can say this with NO problem, ROLLLLLLLL TIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old August 19, 2019, 12:30   #79
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I have a mini , a accu strut , 3 stocks all I need is some time and inspiration to go with my camera and targets
I plan on scoping it too but how do you zero a bone stock mini , use a 50 yard Turkey shotgun target ?

Edit:
I dug my dusty ,forgotten mini out of the back of a closet
Like Bamas mini , my stock also has side to side wiggle , not much but enough to affect accuracy a touch
Something else I noticed is a visible gap in the receiver heel to stock section where on a M14/ Garand there is solid contact

One nice thing I found is the bolt has some contact on both locking lugs , the left side is a little weak but at least there is some contact
I will skip lapping the contact any further for now due to my limited selection of .556 headspace guages
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Old August 19, 2019, 17:09   #80
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Nice job Brother Bama Steve. Keep up the good work.

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Old August 19, 2019, 18:49   #81
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Only way you're going to hit a shipping container at 500 yards is if you're inside the fugger.

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Old August 19, 2019, 21:26   #82
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Receiver/Stock Fitment . . .

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Originally Posted by hardheaded View Post
Something else I noticed is a visible gap in the receiver heel to stock section where on a M14/ Garand there is solid contact
I noticed this as well - seems there is daylight shining through the rear of the stock/receiver fitment.

So I went looking for the culprit and found it quickly on mine.

Seems the casting pour-hole didn't get ground-off flush with the receiver base and it stands proud enough to catch a finger nail passed across it and it also leaves a compression indentation in the stock - can't be be good for accuracy as it twists the receiver when the trigger is installed and leaves a lot of the rear of the receiver unsupported.

I'll update this post later tonight with my fix and pics for you.


























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Old August 19, 2019, 23:26   #83
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Originally Posted by hardheaded View Post
One nice thing I found is the bolt has some contact on both locking lugs , the left side is a little weak but at least there is some contact

I will skip lapping the contact any further for now due to my limited selection of .556 headspace gauges
I would quit messing with the bolt and headspace completely right now and just put a 1/4 drop of grease in those contact points.

The rifle has far too many glaringly large areas in need of remediation before you even think of starting to fine tune it the way you suggest.
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Old August 20, 2019, 01:25   #84
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Are you planning on adding a accu-strut? I’d like to see some before & after groups if you do. How far are you going on this adventure?
This thread has rekindled my interest in my mini. I can’t decide if I want to flush more money down that toilet.
I'll take this thing as far as I need-too over time in a logical progression in order to satisfy my desire to make the rifle shoot acceptably well (looking for consistent sub 2 MOA performance).

Right now I have deliberately chosen not to just shoot it and get it all fouled up before I go through every possible thing that can effect it WITHOUT HAVING TO USE MY LATHE.

I want to get it to shoot as well as it possibly can and share that information using common techniques and hand tools/available on-line parts.

I am doing this as a challenge to myself and all you guys will be the beneficiaries of that effort. (I'm bored and the mini doesn't seem to break parts - reliable, just needs some love/attention).

So all the dudes bashing this rifle and sniping/shitting on the thread will eventually wind-up buying one and shutting the fvck up and making it shoot if they ever decide to develop the skills/attention-span to do so.

You guys asking questions and posting observations of a useful nature are the gold I am sifting through the pile of shit here, to get at.


Wanna help?




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Old August 20, 2019, 01:49   #85
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Trigger Pull Improvement . . .

OK, I used a spring gauge and checked the factory trigger pull on this 580+ series rifle.

16lbs.

I removed the trigger assembly, disassembled it, de-greased, lubricated with only silicone/teflon DRY lube and RIG +P SS grease (VERY sparingly) on the moving contact points.

Then I used a set of nippers and clipped two (2) coils from the DISCONNECTOR spring and re-installed it with the CLIPPED end of the spring inside the trigger pocket (pay attention).

After reassembly, the trigger pull is 6 lbs.

I laughed out loud at the improvement.
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Old August 20, 2019, 01:54   #86
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Weight Reduction

The stock rifle weighs 7.5 lbs with an empty mag installed.

I broke out the paddle bits and decided to reduce the stock weight of the rifle.

Removed the butt-plate and drilled two 1" diameter holes into the butt as far as I dared without blowing through the side of the stock using an electric hand drill motor.

The net weight reduction is 1/4 lb.

The rifle now weighs 7.25 lbs.














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Old August 20, 2019, 07:31   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Steve View Post
I would quit messing with the bolt and headspace completely right now and just put a 1/4 drop of grease in those contact points.

The rifle has far too many glaringly large areas in need of remediation before you even think of starting to fine tune it the way you suggest.
Yes sir ,that's what I thought as well
As clubby as the overall finish is I was pleasantly surprised to find contact on both bolt lugs , I have seen several commercial M14s with contact on the right lug only

I think half of the minis weight is the OP rod , that is some serious mass cycling with every ejection

When you ground off that protrusion on the receiver did it reduce the draw pressure on the trigger group enough to create a problem ?
I am not sure which way to go on that , my options at this point are grinding off that pad or filling the gap with bedding compound

You sure are turning this into a great thread with your efforts
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Old August 20, 2019, 12:51   #88
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When you ground off that protrusion on the receiver did it reduce the draw pressure on the trigger group enough to create a problem ?

I am not sure which way to go on that , my options at this point are grinding off that pad or filling the gap with bedding compound

You sure are turning this into a great thread with your efforts

1. No problem noted

2. File it off flat - that is the way it was intended to be - don't patch the error - correct it.

3. Thanks!

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Old August 20, 2019, 14:43   #89
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Keep up the good work Steve. Just because some haven't been responding doesn't mean we aren't interested.

By the way, my trigger breaks at 4 lbs per my spring loaded trigger tester thingy. Add a overtravel stop on that trigger group and it'll make you smile.
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Old August 20, 2019, 16:23   #90
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Thanks, Randall.

I'll leave my trigger as is for now and focus on other things until it seems like a good idea to lighten it further.
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Old August 21, 2019, 01:52   #91
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Stock/Reciever Shimming . . .

Too much lateral slop in the receiver to stock fit and I don't want to even start bedding it using epoxy (gooey plastic) so I had another little epiphany I will share with you all;

Cut to fit the entire recoil plate stock relief and notched for the screw:




You can now easily add additional shims of different thicknesses or not without gluing your action into the stock (accidentally) and everything is clean and neat and easily redone as needed:




You can remove the "1" shim later by sliding a toothpick in there and then grabbing it from behind the base shim-"0" with some tweezers:










Yeah, I know . . .


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Old August 21, 2019, 02:48   #92
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GAS BLOCK stuff . . .

I bought the replacement gas ports from: https://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.c...ushing-Kit.php

I replaced the factory barn door sized port and installed the 0.045" port on this unfired rifle. This is untested so I will update this specific post later.

AS I removed the original screws from the gas block to replace the gas bushing I found one screw loose and the others of varying levels of tightness.

After removing the gas block, de-greasing and cleaning all mating surfaces with brake cleaner (that stuff that strips the finish from the stock) I put it back together while carefully keeping all the parts evenly spaced on each side and slowly tightened the screws until snug and then rotated around them in succession applying an 1/8th of a turn to each until the 4" long Allen wrench started to flex about 1/2" and then stopped tightening.

[Commentary - I did buy a 1/4" drive inch-lb torque wrench but I cannot seem to adapt it to the existing factory gas block screws so I had to improvise - if you are Ham-Fisted, you need to get your kids to do this for you. AND I am not entirely sure it's actual tension is all that critical - just needs to be snug and even all the way around]. You don't want to snap the things off . . .

More on this later . . .
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Old August 21, 2019, 02:57   #93
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LUBRICATION . . . .

I could do a fairly lengthy photo segment on this after spending some quality time analyzing/cycling the entire action and will update this section as we go.

Right now I will suggest that you get a little Stainless Steel grease/lube like the "RIG +P" I mentioned earlier (I am not selling for them - it just works better than anything else I have tried and stays where you put it).

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Cas.../dp/B0033CRQDQ


Everything else gets a silicone-Teflon-based lubricant on the exterior.
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Old August 22, 2019, 02:00   #94
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I think half of the mini's weight is the OP rod , that is some serious mass cycling with every ejection
After going through this thing slowly and methodically I am starting to understand the need for such heavy mass in the OP-Rod and the ENORMOUS size of the factory gas port (and I have not fired a single shot from it yet).

The magazine follower/ammo presses very tightly against the underside of the bolt which places a lot of friction on the bolt's ability to rotate out of battery which is why I really need to update my LUBRICATION post eventually.

The hammer/spring also adds resistance (out the ass) as it gets reset so, you need to hit it with a heavy force to overcome its resistance/friction.

[Additionally, rearward VELOCITY of the bolt/action plays a roll in the proper rearward travel of the bolt - it must move to the rear fast enough such that gravity does not cause the tail of it to drop and catch on a guide back there - try it, slowly cycle the action and ask yourself why the damn thing stops/gets hung-up back there (if not properly LUBRICATED) - then try it again while cycling it quickly/forcefully - then go figure out why/where you are missing lubrication].

The dryer you run the rifle (less maintenance) the more gas it needs to function and that means that it needs more mass forcing all the dry parts to move in order to overcome the cumulative friction; in order to make all that mass move with sufficient force, you need a lot of gas pressure available.

Now that I have been through this thought process, I no longer damn the rifle nor its engineers in its manufacturing/design.

It is a RANCH RIFLE (Saddle/truck-gun) Low maintenance.

I keep my target rifles that shoot into a single hole in an air conditioned environment/safe, not under the seat of my truck.
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Old August 23, 2019, 02:08   #95
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SLING MOUNTS . . .

I really wanted to put the right sling on this thing and that is the Uncle Mike's Leather Hasty Sling. (I've had this one prepped in Mink oil in a bag for 15+ years and brought it out to install but the damn stock Ruger sling rings are too narrow to accept it).

I replaced the rear-stock threaded stud-mount with an Uncle Mike's stock stud and cut the FACTORY front Gas Block mounted sling-ring-off with some bolt-cutters.

Had to drill out the Gas Block Sling Hole to accept the Uncle Mike's Quick Detach sling ring but it all worked out just fine - that SS is hard stuff.

The width of the Gas Block mounted stock Ruger sling mount is wider than the Uncle Mikes' Quick Detach system so the cross-pin will not engage all the way through and while it does function I don't see it as reliable and I have now hand drilled-out both sides of the Gas Block to narrow it using a 1/4" & then 3/8" diameter drill bit.




















(I love SS - you can do stuff to it that you would never even think about on a Blued gun).

AND, YES - I am aware that the sling is installed backwards in that ^ pic - I was excited.


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Old August 23, 2019, 04:22   #96
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Ya done went and got my interest up again on my 181.
Hasn't left the back of the safe in over 20 years other than an occasional clean and lube, just in case.
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Old August 23, 2019, 05:56   #97
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BEDDING . . . .

I discovered that the stock up there at the front by the gas block is loose/rattly sounding and it moves vertically and laterally (Ever so slightly). Hit it just behind the gas-block with your knuckle and see if yours sounds like it isn't tight, then check for stock movement as you yank it against the bbl.

Seems I have found another spot to fix concerning bedding as there is no way we can free-float this thing . . . or so I think at the moment - we will revisit this later
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Old August 23, 2019, 07:14   #98
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Well, I dug the old girl out. Nothing rattly on her.
Can't remember all the upgrades I did back before the internet. I do remember being on a RTTY gun bulletin board with a 110 baud telephone modem. Boy, those were the days.
What I do remember.
1. Remove 7/8 from barrel and re-crown.
2. Add Choate M14 type muzzle device with sight.
3. Add Techsight real sight.
4. Add pad to stock to add to length of pull.
5. Add composite ventilated hand guard.

This rifle was in a Choate folding stock at one time but CT made them illegal so it went back in the original.
Did have an SK scope mount on it once upon a time with a 3-9 Leupold.
Best I could get it to shoot was about 1.5" at a hundred yards. That was well good enough to harvest plenty of game Over the years.









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Old August 23, 2019, 23:39   #99
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Thanks, Art.

I like the rear externally adjustable sight on your rifle and may acquire one for myself if this thing will shoot - with any luck I'll get to test it tomorrow using the factory Iron sights from the bench at 50 and 100 yds.

Thanks for your service, Sir.

Steve.

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Old August 24, 2019, 01:28   #100
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Hey!

This thread is getting around 100 hits a day . . .

All I hear is silent filing of receivers and cutting up plastic packaging and head scratching going-on.

Are you guys refinishing, fitting, analyzing or what?



Are you with me?

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