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Old August 07, 2018, 21:37   #1
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Berdan Flash Hole size?

Can't seem to find a reference that tells me the size of a Berdan flash hole. I want to try something like this here:



Need to find the right size pin. Anybody?

Got me a sleeve of Tula berdan primers and even a Shlomo hydraulic decapper but I like the looks of this guys decapper much better.
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Old August 07, 2018, 23:02   #2
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I am sure ther is no industry standard among calibers or nations that have used the Berdan system over the last 140 years. The size of Boxer flash holes varies considerably.

Various Size of holes and distance between them would mean you might need a different pin ram for each caliber/mfg/era of case you wish to decap.
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Old August 08, 2018, 02:00   #3
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I bet you couldn't find a standard for Boxer either.
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Old August 08, 2018, 05:35   #4
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Originally Posted by ammolab View Post
I am sure ther is no industry standard among calibers or nations that have used the Berdan system over the last 140 years. The size of Boxer flash holes varies considerably.

Various Size of holes and distance between them would mean you might need a different pin ram for each caliber/mfg/era of case you wish to decap.
Well shucks...I'll just start fitting by hand then, thanks!

The guy in the video discards one case he cannot get his pin thru either flash hole, case in point I think. (no pun intended :-) )

Somewhere there has got to be some researcher who has cataloged Berdan Primer flash hole sizes. I would just need the minimum of the range of sizes and then all would fit. Because I am lazy. Oh well it was worth a shot.

Going thru brass the other day came across a big bag with a 7.62x63 headstamp. Had to look that up-doh! And of course they are Berdan primed. And then there is the 54r and the x39.....not to mention the x51!
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Old August 08, 2018, 09:41   #5
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As I recall ?
Those Berdan flash holes are teeny, tiny things ?

I think you would probably need to use micro drills by hand, maybe a Dremel ? to ream, clean or resize them.

Way too much time, effort and trouble unless you have found some treasure trove of ultra rare brass that can't be dealt with otherwise.
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Old August 08, 2018, 10:09   #6
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Hydraulic, with cases full of water, and a ram the inside diameter of the case necks.
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Old August 08, 2018, 11:04   #7
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I have a hydraulic ram set-up for Berdan primed, beautiful GP-11 7.5 Swiss brass.

I've tinkered with it a couple times but it is slow and messy and usually requires good weather as the splish/splash thing is best done where Mother Nature can assist with the clean-up.
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Old August 08, 2018, 19:48   #8
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I have been using the RCBS berdan depriming tool for years. Works like a champ once you get the hang of it and break a few pins.
Trouble now is getting primers. I am down to my last 8K.
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Old August 08, 2018, 21:18   #9
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That RCBS thing scares me and my Shlomo made hydraulic berdan decapper is just one caliber (.308) and yes it is messy with the water. F-that.
I really do like the tool in the video, looks like the shit to me and I'll attempt to make one as it is not manufactured by anyone. If I can't get it done I'll get my local machine shop buddies to craft one up.

I levered one out this evening with a sharp punch and a hammer. Only after breaking off the punch tip in the first one.

IMG_20180808_192949986

Had a very small wire size drill bit at 0.0425 that just went through the hole in this 54R case. I think Privi brass but am not sure, didn't look that hard at it. Now need to find a suitable hard pin and some sort of small collet like a pin vise or dremel type collet I can fix to a rod and that will fit inside 7.62 whatever case necks.
I have incentive--that sleeve of 5k Tula large rifle primers sitting there collecting dust along with a pile of Berdan primed brass.
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Last edited by davedude; September 18, 2018 at 19:11. Reason: correction-shlomatic caliber
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Old August 08, 2018, 21:43   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davedude View Post
That RCBS thing scares me and my Shlomo made hydraulic berdan decapper is just one caliber (X39) and yes it is messy with the water. F-that.
I really do like the tool in the video, looks like the shit to me and I'll attempt to make one as it is not manufactured by anyone. If I can't get it done I'll get my local machine shop buddies to craft one up.

I levered one out this evening with a sharp punch and a hammer. Only after breaking off the punch tip in the first one.

IMG_20180808_192949986

Had a very small wire size drill bit at 0.0425 that just went through the hole in this 54R case. I think Privi brass but am not sure, didn't look that hard at it. Now need to find a suitable hard pin and some sort of small collet like a pin vise or dremel type collet I can fix to a rod and that will fit inside 7.62 whatever case necks.
I have incentive--that sleeve of 5k Tula large rifle primers sitting there collecting dust along with a pile of Berdan primed brass.
Don't decap too many of those Yugo brass cases. They take a .254" Berdan primer. Your Tula Berdan primers are .217"diameter. Albanian and early Bulgaria 54R would work for you.
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Old August 08, 2018, 22:12   #11
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Originally Posted by ammolab View Post
Don't decap too many of those Yugo brass cases. They take a .254" Berdan primer. Your Tula Berdan primers are .217"diameter. Albanian and early Bulgaria 54R would work for you.

Thank you sir. I will check primer size on all the Berdan brass stash. It's been awhile since I last messed with it.
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Old August 08, 2018, 22:49   #12
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Use a common safety pin of medium size. The wire is the correct diameter, and normally strong enough to decap a Berdan primer. Somewhere I had/have a drawing depicting how to make a Berdan decapping tool that uses two pieces of safety pin wire to force the old primer out. I probably can't find it, but...
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Old August 09, 2018, 09:35   #13
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Decapitated and reload Berman cases all the time but use either a hydraulic pressure unit made at work or RCBS hand decapper watching movies with wife. Issie is unless you have a large supply of Berman primers your stuck. Not hears of any being imported since pre Sandy Hook when all suppliers ran out. I got a heads up and bought entire inventory of two vendors.

Using a pin to try and align then push out heavily crimped Berman primers seems like a challenge. My guess is the small pins would have to use would be prone to breaking a lot.

On side note got lucky and found another bullet swaging press on fleabay for $49.99 this morning. Ordered a bunch of 308 jackets so will no longer be drawing out my 30 caliber jackets which saves huge time and effort. Can't pass up free 224 jackets from rimfire cases.
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Old August 09, 2018, 11:12   #14
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Or, a piece of pipe, hammer and some fittings, plans easily found on internet!
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Old August 09, 2018, 17:42   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtBanks View Post
I have been using the RCBS berdan depriming tool for years. Works like a champ once you get the hang of it and break a few pins.
Trouble now is getting primers. I am down to my last 8K.
Called one of my vendors toward beginning of Sandy Hook and sales rep told me due to Obama's embargo on goods made by companies owned by the Russian government they had no idea when they would be getting more Berdan primers. They retained a majority ownership of their component companies so components cannot be imported. Asked how many Berman primers they had in stock and purchased entire inventory. Immediately called around and purchased every Berman primer I could find.

The Berman primers decap using hydraulic device let dry and save in five gallon buckets. If suddenly primers became totally unavailable tapping the firing pin dents out and repacking Berman primers would be much easier than boxer as have no anvil to work around. Have been using Boxer primers in my 7.62×39 gas check cast boolit handloads. Wife sits with her steady hands from almost 30 years in the dental trade and removes the anvils. I then use a hand primer to seat them then put in loading block neck down and drip a drop of thin viscosity Superglue right at edge of primer and capillary action allows it to evenly wick around and down into crevices and thus far not had any blow out on my mid power cast range loads.

Have too many good Berdan cases not to use and my short Bredan primer stock is super low. Was able to buy enough long Berdan that will be loading 308 cases for some time. While people take consumables for granted I don't and learned how to work the dents out of rimfire cases then reprime them then load them with 90% or better ignition. Same mixture for rimfire priming compound can be used for recycled Berdan primers. I spend hours at range picking up rimfire cases and all my friends save theirs for me. Can use them for bullet jackets or to reload rimfire ammo. I did recycle a couple hundred Berdan primers as an experiment, loaded them with home swaged bullets and except for propellant didn't have to buy any components.

Have several documents and books on making simple propellants but have not tried that yet. Even though have a metric ton of ammo stockpiled it was fun to run binary mag dumps and shoot several hundred rounds through 1911's at local range and when folks asked where I was able to find ammo tell them I made it. They would then ask where was I finding .224 projectiles, primers, etc and told them swaged my rifle bullets, cast my handgun bullets and could even repack primers and reload rimfire. They didn't have/need to know had a decades components put back on top of my stockpile of SHTF ammo.

Why I was so happy to find another bullet swaging press. So many steps and resetting different swaging dies goal is to score several swaging presses to eliminate the number of die swaps. Same reason I have multiple progressive presses do not like doing caliber changes on a press that is set up for a pet load. Have not adjusted dies on my Dillon 550b for 45 acp in 25 years. Did upgrade primer feed when added case feeder but otherwise leave it alone. Also keep a pair of 45/70 lever guns so if have to resort to home made black powder will always have a running smoke pole.
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Old August 10, 2018, 10:44   #16
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Originally Posted by TerryN View Post
Use a common safety pin of medium size. The wire is the correct diameter, and normally strong enough to decap a Berdan primer. Somewhere I had/have a drawing depicting how to make a Berdan decapping tool that uses two pieces of safety pin wire to force the old primer out. I probably can't find it, but...
I will check out the safety pin! Thank you.
Looks to me from the video only one pin is necessary.
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Old August 10, 2018, 11:06   #17
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Davedude,
If by any chance you wanna decap 1950s Romanian 8mm brass, some of that has a Berdan single flash hole in the center of the nipple. I have pix on the Files somewhere...steadfast
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Old August 10, 2018, 11:09   #18
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Originally Posted by hueyville View Post
Decapitated and reload Berman cases all the time but use either a hydraulic pressure unit made at work or RCBS hand decapper watching movies with wife. Issie is unless you have a large supply of Berman primers your stuck. Not hears of any being imported since pre Sandy Hook when all suppliers ran out. I got a heads up and bought entire inventory of two vendors.

Using a pin to try and align then push out heavily crimped Berman primers seems like a challenge. My guess is the small pins would have to use would be prone to breaking a lot.

On side note got lucky and found another bullet swaging press on fleabay for $49.99 this morning. Ordered a bunch of 308 jackets so will no longer be drawing out my 30 caliber jackets which saves huge time and effort. Can't pass up free 224 jackets from rimfire cases.
I set up my Shlomo hydraulic decapper wrong once an blew out the shoulders on a bunch of cases before I figured out what was going on. Set up correctly the hydraulic method works fine, just messy.
I have made my own hydraulic decapper using a Lee universal decapper die body, some JB Weld, a case and a rod the correct size. Fill the die body with epoxy, coat the case and rod with release agent, push into the epoxy and let dry. Bought a handful of the Lee decappers but only ended up making one. It works but yeah, what a mess.
I guess it could be a challenge to use the pin punch method in the video I posted above but man that looks really easy to me.
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Old August 10, 2018, 11:15   #19
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Davedude,
If by any chance you wanna decap 1950s Romanian 8mm brass, some of that has a Berdan single flash hole in the center of the nipple. I have pix on the Files somewhere...steadfast
Kinda green looking steel case? I might have a bit of that put away. Thanks for the heads up, I'll look into it.


Oh dang I must be still asleep. No romy brass but plenty steel case. Doh!
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Old August 10, 2018, 11:27   #20
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Called one of my vendors toward beginning of Sandy Hook and sales rep told me due to Obama's embargo on goods made by companies owned by the Russian government they had no idea when they would be getting more Berdan primers. They retained a majority ownership of their component companies so components cannot be imported. Asked how many Berman primers they had in stock and purchased entire inventory. Immediately called around and purchased every Berman primer I could find.

The Berman primers decap using hydraulic device let dry and save in five gallon buckets. If suddenly primers became totally unavailable tapping the firing pin dents out and repacking Berman primers would be much easier than boxer as have no anvil to work around. Have been using Boxer primers in my 7.62×39 gas check cast boolit handloads. Wife sits with her steady hands from almost 30 years in the dental trade and removes the anvils. I then use a hand primer to seat them then put in loading block neck down and drip a drop of thin viscosity Superglue right at edge of primer and capillary action allows it to evenly wick around and down into crevices and thus far not had any blow out on my mid power cast range loads.

Have too many good Berdan cases not to use and my short Bredan primer stock is super low. Was able to buy enough long Berdan that will be loading 308 cases for some time. While people take consumables for granted I don't and learned how to work the dents out of rimfire cases then reprime them then load them with 90% or better ignition. Same mixture for rimfire priming compound can be used for recycled Berdan primers. I spend hours at range picking up rimfire cases and all my friends save theirs for me. Can use them for bullet jackets or to reload rimfire ammo. I did recycle a couple hundred Berdan primers as an experiment, loaded them with home swaged bullets and except for propellant didn't have to buy any components.

Have several documents and books on making simple propellants but have not tried that yet. Even though have a metric ton of ammo stockpiled it was fun to run binary mag dumps and shoot several hundred rounds through 1911's at local range and when folks asked where I was able to find ammo tell them I made it. They would then ask where was I finding .224 projectiles, primers, etc and told them swaged my rifle bullets, cast my handgun bullets and could even repack primers and reload rimfire. They didn't have/need to know had a decades components put back on top of my stockpile of SHTF ammo.

Why I was so happy to find another bullet swaging press. So many steps and resetting different swaging dies goal is to score several swaging presses to eliminate the number of die swaps. Same reason I have multiple progressive presses do not like doing caliber changes on a press that is set up for a pet load. Have not adjusted dies on my Dillon 550b for 45 acp in 25 years. Did upgrade primer feed when added case feeder but otherwise leave it alone. Also keep a pair of 45/70 lever guns so if have to resort to home made black powder will always have a running smoke pole.
Dang dude you are the man.
I am too scared to make primer compound or holy black. Don't want to have to mess with it.
I should be checking eBay for stuff like the swager. Good deal. Been saving my rimfire cases too 😀
I'm really liking that 45-70 lever gun idea alot.
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Old August 11, 2018, 08:46   #21
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Found the bullet swaging press posted as a reloading press for $49.99 with combined shipping and a butt load of assorted "unknown dies" from same seller cheap using the recently listed search option. Bullet swaging equipment shows up on fleabay at fair price dissappears in minutes or hours. With guys charging $900 for a set of 5.56 bullet swaging dies new it's made the old stuff jump in value. Ability to swage your own bullets for plinking is nice but a lot of work. Normally if I want to shoot inexpensively it's much easier to shoot cast gas check bullets.

Making black powder is easy it's determining burn rate of your home brew that's exciting. Sifting to size only gets your powder sorted to different consistent size but every batch can vary based on methods used. Amazing how simple it can be made but the crude the method the least consistent the product. Give me access to some wood to burn water to drink and and eventually will have two ingredients in time. Can extract your potassium nitrite for black powder to make a device. Kind of nasty but using a mix of urine and feces filtered through wood ash will accumulate nitric acid crystals. If have horses and keep thick layer of sand in stalls over time the horses capping and peeing will cause potassium nitrite crystals to appear.

Sulfur is the hard part unless can get ahold of fertilizer, laundry detergent or other common household items high in sulphur. Of course can go buy lab grade sulphur and nitric acid along with charcoal very easily in a half hour trip to the corner. My pharmacy still stocks sulfur, nitric acid, oxalic acid and more. Grab some charcoal at the zippy mart and your cooking a brew that will blow your gun to pieces but makes good fireworks. It's making a nice even burning slow 2F that takes some practice.

Out in the woods there are places to mine sulfur here in the south, pee through the ashes from your campfire to get your potassium nitrite and then when fire is hot use it to make charcoal from a softer wood like willow. Just Google and use Utube and can find all need to know. If notice a friend has a truckload of cotton balls he is probably making simple smokeless powder. Easiest thing is to make Cordite then once burn rate is determined cut it into appropriate lengths stuff in cases and have simple propellant. Trying to make double and triple based propellants is going to blow you up, don't try it at home.

When I was 12 sent in a money order to a company advertising in back of think Popular Mechanics and purchased a kit to reload rimfire cases. Came with everything needed except gunpowder but had components to mix priming compound, tools to work the dents out rims and a small mold to cast bullets and paraffin wax to lube them. Made some black powder and was off to races.

Before 13th birthday was reloading centerfire ammo and by 15 had my own press, bullet casting equipment and was reloading several hundred rounds per week. During the time from 12 to 17 did a lot of stuff I would only use in a survival situation but have continued to learn how to refine many processes so if my now 15 year stockpile of primers and gunpowder runs out and can't be replaced or dropped in middle of wilderness will work out something.

Being scared to make gunpowder is likely a good thing. I personally know several like minded people who are missing fingers or blind in one eye. You can easily screw up but luckily I had a very nice physical science teacher in middle school and very lax but helpful science/chemistry teacher that gave me huge leeway from 8th grade till I made up two liters of chlorine gas and reacted it with elemental sodium out between two buildings about 100 feet apart and blew the windows out of a half dozen classrooms. Principal was a bit upset that I had submitted the reaction and methods in scope of project paper and chemisty teacher didn't look at close enough to realize a huge amount of energy would be released along with pulling every item needed from lockup.

I keep all sorts of gardening stuff in the storage building to keep the lawn looking good if ever find time.
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Old August 11, 2018, 12:12   #22
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Being scared to make gunpowder is likely a good thing.
Keeps my ass in one piece!

My work environment for the past 38 years has been semiconductor manufacturing, 28 years of that materials science R&D. Just about any kind of hazard you can think of exists the labs. Every day all day. Kinetic, High voltage, toxic gas, poisons, high pressure gas, flammable gas, pyrophoric gases and solids, chemical, High temps( up to 1600C), ultra low temp (14Kelvin but more often 77 kelvin) and the list goes on and on. You would not believe the parade of chemicals. Safety guys are mostly on the less effective, non-existent side so I have to look out for myself.
Some of the gases were immediately toxic to life and health at a few parts per million concentration so wore SCBA fed from bottled air messing with that. I miss white phosphorous, always good for some flames! Had one instance where the local FD was called but they would not enter the lab, ha ha! It was actually all contained and we took care of it. Enough smoke got out to draw attention.
So the result is I am a little bit cautious.

Had a lookie see at a few misc cases.

IMG_20180811_113601408

The .042 pin fit in three. The .032 pin fit in all but was tight in the 7.62X51. The .042 pin fit in only one hole in the 8mm and 7.62X39 cases so there is a hole diameter issue there.
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Old August 11, 2018, 21:16   #23
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Keeps my ass in one piece!

My work environment for the past 38 years has been semiconductor manufacturing, 28 years of that materials science R&D. Just about any kind of hazard you can think of exists the labs. Every day all day. Kinetic, High voltage, toxic gas, poisons, high pressure gas, flammable gas, pyrophoric gases and solids, chemical, High temps( up to 1600C), ultra low temp (14Kelvin but more often 77 kelvin) and the list goes on and on. You would not believe the parade of chemicals. Safety guys are mostly on the less effective, non-existent side so I have to look out for myself.
Some of the gases were immediately toxic to life and health at a few parts per million concentration so wore SCBA fed from bottled air messing with that. I miss white phosphorous, always good for some flames! Had one instance where the local FD was called but they would not enter the lab, ha ha! It was actually all contained and we took care of it. Enough smoke got out to draw attention.
So the result is I am a little bit cautious.

Had a lookie see at a few misc cases.
(Trim)
The .042 pin fit in three. The .032 pin fit in all but was tight in the 7.62X51. The .042 pin fit in only one hole in the 8mm and 7.62X39 cases so there is a hole diameter issue there.
Can I come visit? Am comfortable with working at voltages up to 7,500 volts and have all my OSHA tickets for Electrical, Explosive Environments, HAZWOPR (Mac Daddy of HAZMAT endorsements) and even mundane things like Tripping Hazards, Overhead Lifting, Fall Prevention plus General Construction and General Industry. Have interacted with phosgene gas release, low pressure ammonia refrigeration plus trained for stuff like ethylene oxide, chlorine gas and the mothers of scary stuff methyl bromide and ethyl trichlorosilane. One of my climbing partners does environmental safety and specializes in nuclear power plant refueling but the fuel and spent rods are not the scary stuff, it's the byproducts in liquid and gaseous form that likes to leak. Another friend dives into the pipes that feed the cooling ponds to the reactors. I love scary electrical stuff, chemicals and hot heat treating and cryogenic freezing. Buddy who does medical research has a cryogenic freezer for tissue samples.

Like your pictures of a few different Berdan cases. The size difference in holes is an issue but mostly the spacing differences would be problematic to overcome. I use old worn reloading dies and have a fitting that screws in top and is attached to a 30 HP air compressor with 200 psi max operating pressure but have pop off relief valve set to 180 psi. Has a 160 gallon reserve air tank plus another 50 gallons reserve in pipes and hoses. Put appropriate die in press, attach hose that is not routed through any regulator then dip case in machinists milk, insert in die and actuate ball valve that dumps 180 psi at who knows how much volume into top of die and blows primer out like purging for an endoscopy. Keep a five gallon bucket under the press to catch most of the mess and it's in the machine shop area where coolant is always being slung around. Know most don't have an air compressor that takes a crane to set but a good 10 HP shop compressor with 80 gallon reserve should get it done. Most body shops and bigger automotive shops compressors should do the job.

Have a myriad of devices have made that fill case with liquid and use different devices to smack with hammer. Have one tray I machine that holds 50 7.62×39 cases and 20 foot sticks of steel rod stock can cut and grind a touch with fine wheel then polish that fit fired combloc case necks snug enough fill all the cases, insert pin, smack with hammer and most of the cases pop primer first try. Some take two or three but I give them away so people can't really complain. Still till we can start importing Russian primers again there are few of us with huge hoards of Berdan primers and can load a lot of Berdan cases.

Have been using Berdan case reloads for my long term zombie apocalypse storage rounds to free up as many boxer primed cases for regular reloading so makes the overall task easier. Recently was given a five gallon bucket of 7.62 mixed European Berdan brass been decapping and once have it all prepped will load it up and put in lockers for the end of civilization or heirs to burn through my rifles rather than Chinese Tulammo. Get them all,the time at LGS along with rimfire cases for swaging 5.56 bullets. Anyone brings me brass and I am always ready to repay the favor.
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Old August 14, 2018, 05:31   #24
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Or, a piece of pipe, hammer and some fittings, plans easily found on internet!
I like this! Multi-caliber, is it not? I will try to make one of these as well.
Correct me if I am wrong but hydraulic decappers are warm weather outdoor limited, unless you do it in the shower stall I guess.
Thanks for posting that!
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Old August 14, 2018, 05:46   #25
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Can I come visit? Am comfortable with working at voltages up to 7,500 volts and have all my OSHA tickets for Electrical, Explosive Environments, HAZWOPR (Mac Daddy of HAZMAT endorsements) and even mundane things like Tripping Hazards, Overhead Lifting, Fall Prevention plus General Construction and General Industry. Have interacted with phosgene gas release, low pressure ammonia refrigeration plus trained for stuff like ethylene oxide, chlorine gas and the mothers of scary stuff methyl bromide and ethyl trichlorosilane. One of my climbing partners does environmental safety and specializes in nuclear power plant refueling but the fuel and spent rods are not the scary stuff, it's the byproducts in liquid and gaseous form that likes to leak. Another friend dives into the pipes that feed the cooling ponds to the reactors. I love scary electrical stuff, chemicals and hot heat treating and cryogenic freezing. Buddy who does medical research has a cryogenic freezer for tissue samples.

Like your pictures of a few different Berdan cases. The size difference in holes is an issue but mostly the spacing differences would be problematic to overcome. I use old worn reloading dies and have a fitting that screws in top and is attached to a 30 HP air compressor with 200 psi max operating pressure but have pop off relief valve set to 180 psi. Has a 160 gallon reserve air tank plus another 50 gallons reserve in pipes and hoses. Put appropriate die in press, attach hose that is not routed through any regulator then dip case in machinists milk, insert in die and actuate ball valve that dumps 180 psi at who knows how much volume into top of die and blows primer out like purging for an endoscopy. Keep a five gallon bucket under the press to catch most of the mess and it's in the machine shop area where coolant is always being slung around. Know most don't have an air compressor that takes a crane to set but a good 10 HP shop compressor with 80 gallon reserve should get it done. Most body shops and bigger automotive shops compressors should do the job.

Have a myriad of devices have made that fill case with liquid and use different devices to smack with hammer. Have one tray I machine that holds 50 7.62×39 cases and 20 foot sticks of steel rod stock can cut and grind a touch with fine wheel then polish that fit fired combloc case necks snug enough fill all the cases, insert pin, smack with hammer and most of the cases pop primer first try. Some take two or three but I give them away so people can't really complain. Still till we can start importing Russian primers again there are few of us with huge hoards of Berdan primers and can load a lot of Berdan cases.

Have been using Berdan case reloads for my long term zombie apocalypse storage rounds to free up as many boxer primed cases for regular reloading so makes the overall task easier. Recently was given a five gallon bucket of 7.62 mixed European Berdan brass been decapping and once have it all prepped will load it up and put in lockers for the end of civilization or heirs to burn through my rifles rather than Chinese Tulammo. Get them all,the time at LGS along with rimfire cases for swaging 5.56 bullets. Anyone brings me brass and I am always ready to repay the favor.
Anytime you are in the area I'd be honored to have you as a guest. I'll give you the tour.

The single pin is the answer to the size and spacing issue but will take a little locating/alignment. I'm gathering parts.
Been collecting up all the once fired Berdan, have a 5 gal bucket full. I think most are the size primer I have.
My air compressor/valving is too weenie and wont get it done. I tried.
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Old August 14, 2018, 12:47   #26
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Hueyville dude sorry for the OT post just wanted to follow-up a little with the chemical action going on here one of which is ultra high purity anhydrous ammonia or NH3. Nasty stuff but it's the chemical du jour so I'm dealing with it. I have a really nice orbital TIG welder I use to make up custom SS high purity gas control sticks, just made another one to add NH3 to another tool. Have a crew coming in this week to install the supply line and run exhaust to my control sticks cabinet and pumps. We inject NH3 into the tool on to a hot surface which cracks off the three hydrogen atoms and leaves us with a highly reactive atomic nitrogen atom that will readily bond with aluminum, gallium, indium or whatever to make a nitride film. Safety guys will be hanging sensors all over in case any NH3 leaks out it will be detected and shut down everything.
Almost every day I am at the wet bench playing with chemical liquids. One of my favorites is called Pirahna which we use to clean off organic contamination. Sulphuric acid, hydrogen peroxide (30%) and deionized water, gets thermic fast when mixed.
I have another clean up we call "cat piss". A 50/50 mix of ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide (30%). Takes that stuff awhile but it eventually goes off in a wild frothing boil, really cool to watch, after which it is spent and useless.
Another fav is aqua regia, a mix of hydrochloric acid and nitric acid. It's a heavy metal etch used to clean metal contamination from ceramics and some refractory metals like tantalum. Won't hurt tantalum but eats my moly stuff if I leave it in too long. Made a mixing mistake once, mixed hydrofluoric acid with nitric and dropped in a chunk of molydinum. My part vanished in a puff of brown gas! Doh!
Apologize for the off topic, couldn't help myself. The point here is with all of the chemical activity I got going on at work I'm not much inclined to see any more of it than I have to. It's bad enuf as it is, don't need to mess around with possibly worse.
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Old August 16, 2018, 12:38   #27
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I do very little playing with chemicals, especially experimenting at home (like not crapping where you eat) and blessed to have 5,000 square feet under roof with 4,000 feet of shop area and a back loading dock. Quite often find myself on back loading dock with helmet, flack jacket, leather apron, Nomex, filtered breathable air face mask or entire helmet with collar and heavy half suit that covers me from waist to head and injects clean filtered air and allows me to adjust temperature inside my barrier. Last thing I want is to be covered with chemical burns, heat burns or filled with shrapnel because a dumb idea went wrong. Also why do most of my ballistic testing indoors using my indoor range in case something were to send pieces flying in all directions it's contained in a concrete and steel enclosure.

P.S. I don't believe the OP who begins a thread can officially take their thread off topic. If Texas falls to California before Georgia falls to the NYS/Mass crowd you just come this way and will either put you to work or on shifts at one of the armored hides here in the Pomderosa. Have three months food for a dozen people and uneding supply of water. Majority of home is bullet resistant including windows to handguns and exterior doors Level 4 rifle plus 30 minute force entry rated. May need your skills, give you an extra ticket for the wife as doubt the dirty dozen on approved list will all make it.
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Old August 16, 2018, 19:09   #28
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Im amazed by the experience and knowledge you guys have. Hats off to you!
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Old August 19, 2018, 06:47   #29
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Im amazed by the experience and knowledge you guys have. Hats off to you!
Hueyville is amazing but I am just a wrench working for the real brains. It boggles my mind wondering about the type of people who sit around and think up ways to make stuff like triethylgallium (TEG). They actually figure out how to combine organic chemicals with metal so it can be delivered as a vapor.
Well I guess better living through chemicals eh? :-)
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Old August 19, 2018, 10:41   #30
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I do very little playing with chemicals, especially experimenting at home (like not crapping where you eat) and blessed to have 5,000 square feet under roof with 4,000 feet of shop area and a back loading dock. Quite often find myself on back loading dock with helmet, flack jacket, leather apron, Nomex, filtered breathable air face mask or entire helmet with collar and heavy half suit that covers me from waist to head and injects clean filtered air and allows me to adjust temperature inside my barrier. Last thing I want is to be covered with chemical burns, heat burns or filled with shrapnel because a dumb idea went wrong. Also why do most of my ballistic testing indoors using my indoor range in case something were to send pieces flying in all directions it's contained in a concrete and steel enclosure.

P.S. I don't believe the OP who begins a thread can officially take their thread off topic. If Texas falls to California before Georgia falls to the NYS/Mass crowd you just come this way and will either put you to work or on shifts at one of the armored hides here in the Pomderosa. Have three months food for a dozen people and uneding supply of water. Majority of home is bullet resistant including windows to handguns and exterior doors Level 4 rifle plus 30 minute force entry rated. May need your skills, give you an extra ticket for the wife as doubt the dirty dozen on approved list will all make it.
I need a bigger shop! Can't hardly walk around in mine, so much junk in there. Embarrassing. Been meaning to organize it, I'll get to it one of these days...

I heard ya on the industrial accidents, not high up on my "glorious" ways to go out either. I just flat refuse to screw up like that. We had a guy twist off the cap on a big cylinder of 100% silane the wrong way not too long ago. Burnt his face and arms. They had to let the cylinder burn out, good thing it was in a concrete bunker outside. The guy violated just about every one of the existing safety protocols he was supposed to be observing and was lucky he got away with minor burns. Of course they sh*tcanned him not long afterwards.
I still have a bunch of nomex PPE from when we were playing with phosphorous. Nowadays it's chemical resistant heavy aprons, sleeves, gloves (always double glove) and face shields messing with chemicals in exhausted wet benches.

I spent 2.5 years in downtown Atlanta back in '77-'78 time frame doing the DeVry University thing. Sure did enjoy getting out of town when I could, I like Georgia countryside, I fit in real good there. I'd be honored to help out there at your dojo.
If I am lucky I'll eventually start a small hobby farm somewhere in Maine like my grandparents had. If the progs/socialists/marxists decide to go hot and overthrow the constitutional republic before I'm able to get out of here I'd be lucky to make it to SE Oklahoma, much less all the way to Georgia.

Was able to find some off the shelf components to make a hydraulic decapper like the one in trypcil's video. .5" bore fit x39, x51 and 8mm cases. Had to develop some technique and rhythm but was able to pop primers on the x39 and x51 cases. The 8mm primers would not budge.

I have some carbide 1/32 pins in hand for the pin type decapper press effort, hope they are not too brittle. Am hung up on finding a pin vise with an OD of about .300" to fit inside case necks, am continuing to look for one suitable. I like the idea of using a collet to hold pins that way I can easily change the pins out if I break or bend one.
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Old August 19, 2018, 11:57   #31
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shlomo worked out the messiness of his hydraulic decapper. Just put it on a Lee Press, add a little bit of tubing to the ram, and direct the other end of the tubing into a bucket. Bucket collects all the water runoff as well as the spent primers.


Original Video - More videos at TinyPic
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Old August 29, 2018, 19:13   #32
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some reading …… but keep in mind that quality control during production means everything when considering spec’s of ammo components

https://ballistictools.com/articles/flashhole.php


https://ballistictools.com/articles/...d-diameter.php

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php



German Salazar gave us lots of info on primers and primer hole size

http://www.6mmbr.com/primerpix.html

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/german-salazar/
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Old August 30, 2018, 21:26   #33
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shlomo worked out the messiness of his hydraulic decapper. Just put it on a Lee Press, add a little bit of tubing to the ram, and direct the other end of the tubing into a bucket. Bucket collects all the water runoff as well as the spent primers.


Original Video - More videos at TinyPic
That looks very slick. Custom ram attachment with barbed hose fitting? Thanks for posting that.

I could swear mine works different, I have to smack the top with a mallet. I must have an earlier version. Of course now I can't find it...had eyes on it not long ago too. When I find it I'll post a pic of it.
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Old August 30, 2018, 21:49   #34
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some reading …… but keep in mind that quality control during production means everything when considering spec’s of ammo components

https://ballistictools.com/articles/flashhole.php


https://ballistictools.com/articles/...d-diameter.php

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php



German Salazar gave us lots of info on primers and primer hole size

http://www.6mmbr.com/primerpix.html

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/german-salazar/
I bookmarked all of that. Thank you. Good stuff.

I think I'm getting closer to finding a micro collet suitable for holding my pins but have to attend other issues for a few before can get back to this...
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Old August 31, 2018, 18:35   #35
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this is what I use to uniform flash holes (Boxer) and derurr from the inside of the brass case

and it fits the RCBS flash hole case pilot stops perfectly

I can sit watching TV in my recliner w/ a large clear storage tote in my lap to catch brass shavings and this drill bit in my Milwaukee M12 cordless drill

Interstate - No. 2 Trade, Plain, 60 Degree Included Angle, High Speed Steel Combination Drill and Countersink
5 Inch Overall Length, Right Hand Cutting Direction, Bright Finish

MSC Part #: 01044254


bought 3 of them for $34.00 in July of 2016





https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01044254
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Old September 15, 2018, 22:01   #36
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Update: still hunting parts for the "press" but been busy. Will eventually get there though.


I found another video showing some dimensions:



And a files thread with another cool variant of the "pin punch" berdan decap method:

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...ight=hydraulic

I even found a files thread where the decapper I want to duplicate was mentioned. Post #21

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...ight=hydraulic


This evening I finally found my first gen Shlomatic ( It was right under my nose all this time) and did a small run of berdan .308 decapping. Could not get it screwed into the cheapo Lee open frame, threads too tight so employed the rock chucker. Threaded into place easy there. I had forgot how lethal this thing was, I peppered the walls and parts of my body with high speed primers and water. Took one primer on the end of my thumb that hurt for awhile.

IMG_20180915_205339923

Works great but messy. Some compensation in that primer pockets look really clean on some of the cases. I'm going to knock out the bedan decapping with this until I can get the punch press thing built and operational.
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Old September 16, 2018, 07:57   #37
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Anyone have plans for the Shlomatic Berdan decapping rig or one to sell? Would be nice to decap at home versus my rig at work some times.
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Old September 16, 2018, 08:00   #38
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Here you go:

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/ber...imensions.html
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Old September 17, 2018, 14:31   #39
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Anyone have plans for the Shlomatic Berdan decapping rig or one to sell? Would be nice to decap at home versus my rig at work some times.
No drawings but it is a caliber specific chamber that supports a case all the way around with a spring loaded plunger. I was going to try to make one out of a shot out rifle barrel, just need the chamber and cut the rest off. When the case is all the way up inside the plunger rod has entered the case mouth a little bit and sealed it. The plunger has about an inch or so more travel available so when you whack the end of it it goes deep enough inside the case to generate the hydraulic pressure. A spring inside pops the plunger back up. Without the support of the chamber the case will balloon real bad. Don't ask me how I know.
Shlomo did mention once that it was possible to do some 30-06 cases in the .308 decapper, I need to revisit that, I forget the particulars.
Took another primer shot to the hand yesterday, this time to a knuckle. Left a nice bruise. That one got me motivated to put in a deflector plate.
I tried to make a hydraulic decapper for X39 by filling a Lee universal decapper die body with JB Weld and stuffing a case and rod coated with release agent up in there until it cured. I didn't do a very good job of it. It works but is crude at best and not robust.
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Old September 17, 2018, 14:51   #40
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With the shlomatic sometimes just the plunger sealing off the case neck pops the primer. Not often though. Most times a good whack is needed.
Forget about AFF and MF headstamp cases, the primer will not budge no matter what.
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Old September 18, 2018, 09:18   #41
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Have some 308 dies that have picked up scratches over the years and been retired. If took a pass with chamber reamer to open up a tad then play with how snug case needs to be has anyone tried using an old did? My rig at work uses a cheap used single stage press with 308 die and unrestricted volume and pressure from a 30 horsepower 200+ gallon reserve air capacity air compressor piped in the top on a foot pedal. Have to dip case in some mist coolant, insert in die then dump 180 psi in top of die. Even with five gallon bucket under press makes a mess and can't use at home. Something can whack with a hammer at home would be darn confident.
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Old September 18, 2018, 10:48   #42
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There is a YouTube video out there where some guy did that. Can't hunt for it now but will later.


Ok I found it.

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Old September 18, 2018, 12:30   #43
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Build you one of these.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/H...t_/42-362609/?


In Action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TYu3SU6UMI
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