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Old January 19, 2018, 20:47   #1
mnop308
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DSA flash hider removal

I have a DSA stg58 with an 18" barrel that was built for me during the summer of 05. It has the factory installed proprietary flash hider. I want to remove the current flash hider and install an adaptor to use a 5/8x24 linear device. How the neck do I get this thing off?
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Old January 19, 2018, 21:09   #2
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It's this one https://www.dsarms.com/p-14269-fal-s...d-threads.aspx
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Old January 22, 2018, 00:03   #3
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C4?? I don't know but I'm going to find out in March when I'm down at my friend's house. I don't know if they put thread locker on it or not, I hope they didn't, but my friend has a lot of experience of getting crappy flash hiders off of barrels.
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Old January 22, 2018, 10:15   #4
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MAPP gas and turning it the correct way, is how you get these things off.
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Old January 23, 2018, 06:56   #5
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MAPP gas?
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Old January 23, 2018, 09:21   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnop308 View Post
MAPP gas?
Think: torch = heat

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Old January 23, 2018, 09:22   #7
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MAPP gas?
MAPP gas burns hotter then propane. You can buy it at any of the big box stores, farm stores, etc.

You heat the muzzle device where the threads are, to aid in removal. If they used any type of sealant such as LocTite, it'll melt it. It'll also help on rust, whatever.

This is a good starter kit. The gas isn't too expensive ($8-$12) after you have the torch.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic...h-Kit/50126437
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Old January 23, 2018, 10:24   #8
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The temp are 2020 degrees f ("MAPP") gas versus 1995 degrees f (propane), in air. Look it up.

Where "MAPP" gas shines is in an oxygen atmosphere where it can be safer than acetylene (2976 degrees in O2) MAPP gas also contains more heat (15445 kJ/m3 versus 10443 kJ/m3, propane) so can be more economical in certain industrial uses. MAPP/O2 flame also gives up heat better than propane/O2.

Bottom line? Unless using Oxygen, MAPP and propane are a near wash.

Personally, I use a MAPP torch head (efficient) with propane gas (cheap).
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Old January 23, 2018, 12:04   #9
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The AW ban expired in '04. Why would a gun built in '05 have a soldered muzzle device? DSA didn't follow the law during the ban (they used 400F solder instead of ATF approved 1100F solder, so why would they solder it when they didn't have to?)

Based on the follow-up post, it's cut-down Austrian StG flash hider they sold as "US Made".

OP - you do know it's a LH thread, yes?

Clamp in vise with V blocks right behind flash hider (to avoid twisting the barrel), and put a piece of angle iron in the flutes. Turn it righty-tighty.

The only reason it would be locktited is for timing and the StG doesn't have timing.
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Old January 23, 2018, 21:33   #10
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Thanks for the info on MAPP gas. Yes sir GUNPLUMER, I am aware of the left hand threads. I am reluctant to use those kind of high temps on a cryogenicly treated barrel. I don't know if it would cause any harm, but let me know if I am worried about nothing.

I am thinking that since my rifle is a 2005 build, DSA may have just used red locktite. I have tried just unscrewing it with a large flat head screw driver between the slots, but they wanted to start bending with no movement of the flash hider itself. How much heat does it take to break the seal of red locktite?

GUNPLUMBERS idea of locking the barrel in a vice is sounding like a good solution. Would heating the area of the threads with a high temp heat gun be enough for red lock tite?

It comes right off by turning to the right, right?
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Old January 24, 2018, 08:47   #11
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red locktite is soft at 300 F

I do this for a living. This is my procedure.

Hold the barrel in V blocks or aluminum barrel blocks, and stick a piece of angle iron in the slots. If I think they are going to bend (which is rare), apply heat. Watch to see if it smokes. If it's not smoking at 300F as the locktite melts, then it's not locktite.

If it still doesn't break free, while it's still warm, hit with some ATF or PB Blaster and let it cool, that will suck the oil into the threads - although there is no evidence of rust.

Try again when cool. If that fails, then I have to assume it is soldered and I heat to dull read (1100-1200) F and if that doesn't work I cut it off on the mill or turn it off on the lathe, as I've already exceeded in labor the replacement cost. I have around 800 StG flash hiders.
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Old January 24, 2018, 18:41   #12
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Thanks GUNPLUMBER. Helpful folks like you are the reason why the FAL and AK files files are such a great community
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Old February 02, 2018, 17:51   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunplumber View Post
red locktite is soft at 300 F

I do this for a living. This is my procedure.

Hold the barrel in V blocks or aluminum barrel blocks, and stick a piece of angle iron in the slots. If I think they are going to bend (which is rare), apply heat. Watch to see if it smokes. If it's not smoking at 300F as the locktite melts, then it's not locktite.

If it still doesn't break free, while it's still warm, hit with some ATF or PB Blaster and let it cool, that will suck the oil into the threads - although there is no evidence of rust.

Try again when cool. If that fails, then I have to assume it is soldered and I heat to dull read (1100-1200) F and if that doesn't work I cut it off on the mill or turn it off on the lathe, as I've already exceeded in labor the replacement cost. I have around 800 StG flash hiders.
And this is why Gunplumber is the best! Just took mine off last night! THANKS!!!
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