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Old December 12, 2017, 02:42   #1
swiss_bob
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The opposite question?

Hi All

This is the opposite question, how to make a full auto non full auto? We have a rather beautiful ex Luxembourg FN FALO in all her working glory, problem is that shooting full auto here for the most part is somewhat frowned upon. I would like a way to make it so that this cannot happen by accident, but is easy to change back should the opportunity to let her really sing arise?

The easiest solution that I can see would be to fit an L1A1 fire selector switch, does anyone know if this will fit a metric FAL?

Does anyone have another solution equally easily implemented?

Thanks in advance

Bob



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Old December 12, 2017, 05:39   #2
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There's the semi-auto only selector with the beak that an be used (preventing it from being rotated into the auto position), and I believe also a semi-auto only trigger plunger which prevents the trigger from being pulled back enough to permit full auto fire even with the selector in the auto position. This, plus the removal of the safety sear and spring, were what was done initially to make FALs semi-auto, such as with the G Series imported to the U.S., although if the above two things are done I don't think that the safety sear needs to go (ideally, it should remain in the gun, as it serves a useful function even in semi-auto). With the above, nothing permanent is done. Parts are swapped, and that's it.
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Old December 22, 2017, 08:31   #3
swiss_bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigstick61 View Post
There's the semi-auto only selector with the beak that an be used (preventing it from being rotated into the auto position), and I believe also a semi-auto only trigger plunger which prevents the trigger from being pulled back enough to permit full auto fire even with the selector in the auto position. This, plus the removal of the safety sear and spring, were what was done initially to make FALs semi-auto, such as with the G Series imported to the U.S., although if the above two things are done I don't think that the safety sear needs to go (ideally, it should remain in the gun, as it serves a useful function even in semi-auto). With the above, nothing permanent is done. Parts are swapped, and that's it.
Thanks, I did not realise (DOH!) that there was a metric single shot only change over switch. This is probably all I will change, it is only to stop it being accidentally put in full auto at our local range, but there is a possibility of a full auto shoot in the future...

Does anyone know where I might find one of these, preferably from someone who is willing to post to Switzerland?

Thanks

Bob
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Old December 22, 2017, 09:38   #4
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DSA has them, part # USO76B according to my older catalog. I have used this Selector and had no problem with it, but I seem to remember Gunplumber saying he had to modify some to work properly.

I couldn't find any info about DSA's International shipping policy.
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Old December 22, 2017, 09:51   #5
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You can do this yourself with the existing selector.

The FAL Selector has 3 positions:
1) The so-called "safe" [S] position of the selector where the tail end of the trigger directly contacts the selector shaft. In this location of the shaft there is NO clearance notch, so the trigger cannot depress.
2) "Fire" or semiautomatic-fire [R] position is a medium-deep notch which allows the trigger to be depressed just enough to trip the sear off the hammer; however, the sear and trigger are still "close enough" for the rebounding hammer to catch the sear and "reset" in a cocked position again.
3) "Auto" [A] position is a full-depth notch which allows the trigger to depress so much that while it trips the sear off the hammer, it now moves "far enough away" to hold the sear clear of the hammer... now the rebounding hammer is free to slap forward after recoil. The safety sear or secondary sear would catch the hammer and release it as the bolt-carrier comes forward.

You can modify the selector using JB Weld or LocTite Weld to make it semiautomatic-only in one of two ways (I recommend option 2):
1) You can fill the "auto" notch in the selector PARTIALLY with JB Weld or LocTite Weld to make it a second "fire" position.
2) You can fill the "auto" notch in the selector FULLY with JB Weld or LocTite Weld to make it a second "safe" position.

How to do this:
1) Remove the lower receiver and move the selector to the A position and observe which notch on the selector engages the rear of the trigger.
2) Remove the selector and remove any oils on the shaft by using Acetone.
3) Put JB Weld or LocTite Weld in the Auto notch (the deeper of the two notches in case you forgot which one is Auto).
4) Allow the epoxy to set and then file to shape. You can also file the depth of the notch if you are trying to make it another Fire position.

This is a semi-permanent fix, in that should you ever want to remove the epoxy you can just file it out.
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Old December 22, 2017, 11:04   #6
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What a wonderful problem to be dealing with. We can only dream of such for the most part.
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