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Old September 16, 2012, 11:36   #1
kuffaar
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My new, inexpensive gun safe

This is a 24x24x60" job box that's made by Dee Zee. I got it online for only $375 brand new. I figured that even though it's not a real safe with fireproofing, once it's full no one is going to carry it off!

Like any job box, it has carry handles build into the ends. To make the entire floor useable, I made a platform out of 1/4" plywood and some scrap 1x4s that I had lying around. Most of my rifles have cases, so I'm not worried about scratches. But if I get ambitious, I thought glueing red or green felt on the walls would be a nice touch.

It's sitting up off the floor on the bottom of an old stereo cabinet that had casters on it I'd saved to use as a lightweight dolly.

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Old September 16, 2012, 12:52   #2
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Better than nothing but you could have gotten a low end safe for around $600 which would have been a lot better.
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Old September 16, 2012, 13:36   #3
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Should work well for the "snatch & grab" dope heads, but I would camoflage it as much as possible, maybe behind a false wall or something of the sort.
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Old September 16, 2012, 15:51   #4
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Better than nothing but you could have gotten a low end safe for around $600 which would have been a lot better.
I didn't find any safes in that price range that were that large. It's on the second floor of my home, so if anyone is going to carry this thing out, they'll have to work like hell for it.
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Old September 16, 2012, 16:21   #5
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Should work well for the "snatch & grab" dope heads, but I would camoflage it as much as possible, maybe behind a false wall or something of the sort.
No one is going to "snatch" this thing out of my house. Once it's loaded, it'll probably weigh over 500 lb. My brother and I had a heck of a time getting it upstairs empty. I think they'll be safe.
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Old September 16, 2012, 16:57   #6
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Thinking if you bolted/lagged through the plywood into concrete, added felt and/or rifle racks and placed ~10,000 rounds of centerfire ammo for weight into the bottom that would make a decent safe to deter all but the most prepared burglar.
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Old September 16, 2012, 18:06   #7
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you can line it with sheet rock for fire proofing
.5" = 20 min
looks like you can get 2 layers in there
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Old September 17, 2012, 05:59   #8
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Should work well for the "snatch & grab" dope heads, but I would camoflage it as much as possible, maybe behind a false wall or something of the sort.

Write "BOOKS" on it in magic marker.

Fuggers won't come within rifle-shot of it then.
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Old September 17, 2012, 07:30   #9
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What kind of locks does it have ?

I keep a few job boxes for tools, the kind with 1 or 2 recessed key pad locks (masterlocks), depending on size.

After I saw someone drill the lock on one and have it open in under 30 seconds, I dont really have much faith in pad locks.
Even when recessed and protected, they still give a clear shot to drill the tumblers with a cordless drill and only keep honest people out.
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Old September 17, 2012, 08:01   #10
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What kind of locks does it have ?

I keep a few job boxes for tools, the kind with 1 or 2 recessed key pad locks (masterlocks), depending on size.

After I saw someone drill the lock on one and have it open in under 30 seconds, I dont really have much faith in pad locks.
Even when recessed and protected, they still give a clear shot to drill the tumblers with a cordless drill and only keep honest people out.
I purchased Master Lock Magnum 2" padlocks.
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Old September 17, 2012, 08:42   #11
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Write "BOOKS" on it in magic marker.

Fuggers won't come within rifle-shot of it then.
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Old September 17, 2012, 10:43   #12
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I'm a big fan of job boxes from years of working construction and never having lost anything out of one. But, I did not know a Master Padlock was so easy to defeat with a cordless drill.
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Old September 17, 2012, 12:37   #13
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No one is going to "snatch" this thing out of my house. Once it's loaded, it'll probably weigh over 500 lb. My brother and I had a heck of a time getting it upstairs empty. I think they'll be safe.
Professional thieves will have it or it's contents out of the house in less than five minutes. A grinder will have the hinges off and a whack with a sledge will take the door off. If it looks like that will take too long, they will either slide it down the stairs or use a chop saw to remove the flooring and simply drop it down to the ground level. If the drop doesn't pop it open, then two guys with a hand truck will have it loaded in the back of a truck very quickly.

Time is a thief's biggest enemy. The longer they are in the house, the more chance that someone will be suspicious and call the cops. A well-hidden safe is good. A well-hidden safe that is securely bolted to a concrete floor with cinder-block walls on three sides is best.
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Old September 17, 2012, 14:20   #14
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Do you have a link to where you got the DEE Zee box? I did a search and cannot anything made by them that looks like your box. I am interested in seeing the lock setup.
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Old September 17, 2012, 20:03   #15
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Do you have a link to where you got the DEE Zee box? I did a search and cannot anything made by them that looks like your box. I am interested in seeing the lock setup.
autoplicity.com
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Old September 18, 2012, 07:44   #16
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I'm a big fan of job boxes from years of working construction and never having lost anything out of one. But, I did not know a Master Padlock was so easy to defeat with a cordless drill.
Yea, I was completely shocked myself, took him no linger than 30 seconds to drill the tumblers, turn the key barrel and have it open.
I always thought the 'barrel' part where the key goes in were hardened, like the shackles, but he drilled it like brass with a new bit in a cordless drill.

The guy was an alarm system installer working on the job site and got me into my box one day when I had forgotten my keys at home, so I guess he had experience with locks, but I cant imagin a decent thief knowing less.
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Old September 18, 2012, 08:35   #17
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Thanks for the link, that is a good price for a box that size and especially if it includes shipping. I have multiple examples of Knack, Delta JOBOX, & Ridgid job boxes on the homestead and like them all. I looked at a Klein marked 24”X24”X48” box at Home Depot the other day and it was terrible. It was selling for a few bucks less than the comparable Ridgid box next to it but the quality of construction and welds was not close to my eye. I would have to see one of the Dee Zees up close before springing the bucks. That and I don’t really need another one anyway. I do applaud you for taking the steps to secure your stuff.
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Old September 18, 2012, 15:41   #18
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Yea, I was completely shocked myself, took him no linger than 30 seconds to drill the tumblers, turn the key barrel and have it open.
I always thought the 'barrel' part where the key goes in were hardened, like the shackles, but he drilled it like brass with a new bit in a cordless drill.

The guy was an alarm system installer working on the job site and got me into my box one day when I had forgotten my keys at home, so I guess he had experience with locks, but I cant imagin a decent thief knowing less.
Soooo, Does anyone make a lock that can't be drilled out easily like that? The bottom is the only vulnerable & exposed part of the lock, and apparently the softest? Argh!
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Old September 18, 2012, 16:36   #19
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Soooo, Does anyone make a lock that can't be drilled out easily like that? The bottom is the only vulnerable & exposed part of the lock, and apparently the softest? Argh!

Most bad guys are idiots, they'll leave after they get all the electronics. If they have to spend any time getting something open it means getting caught. I have my bulk ammo in a Ridgid Job Box, I put a Master Puck
lock in the middle of the two pad locks, it makes it that much more unfriendly, it's a pain to open with keys. Get an alarm and don't advertise
the fact you own guns on your Truck/Car period. I now have remote cameras
that are part of the alarm system to do real time viewing.

The Ridgid Box weighs around 1000#.
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Old September 18, 2012, 16:52   #20
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Treadlock, now Tread Corporation, made a safe similar to a job box years ago. It used cylinder locks that went into sleeves located under a lip along the front edge. You had to get down on your hands and knees and practically turn upside down to get the key into the lock. The way it was built made it very hard to get a drill up to the locks. I'm sure some of those units are still floating around on the used market.
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Old September 18, 2012, 17:54   #21
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A well-hidden safe that is securely bolted to a concrete floor with cinder-block walls on three sides is best.
This. I have a safe that is about as secure as your job box, which is to say not very secure . It will keep the hop heads out but that's it. BUT, additionally I have a small safe that keeps the rifle bolts and the handguns that I purchased used for under $400 and put in the corner of the basement. Concrete on three sides and 1/2" anchor bolts. This is the "serious" safe. It has TL rated walls and a massive steel door among other burglar proof features.

If you have concrete on only two sides a hydraulic jack and an opposing wall can be used to help dislodge it from it's anchors.
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Old September 18, 2012, 18:08   #22
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After I saw someone drill the lock on one and have it open in under 30 seconds, I dont really have much faith in pad locks.
If that bummed you out you don't want to see what a cordless skilsaw and an abrasive blade will do. It cuts hardened steel faster than mild steel, hardened doesn't try to gum up the blade.
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Old September 18, 2012, 18:24   #23
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I didn't find any safes in that price range that were that large. It's on the second floor of my home, so if anyone is going to carry this thing out, they'll have to work like hell for it.
I got one from Tractor Supply on sale for $600. It's 30 inches wide,20 inches deep, and 59 inches tall. I've seen them on sale a few times since I got mine.
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Old September 19, 2012, 22:34   #24
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I use Abus Stainless Disc Locks.


Turn backward so the keyhole is away from you, you can't see the keyhole, let alone drill it out.
And you can't get a bolt cutter or disc saw up there either.

Does take a little jiggering to get the hang of putting the key in.



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Old September 20, 2012, 15:34   #25
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Just spend a few hundred more and buy a real safe. You should only need one for the rest of your life so why worry about that difference? Only reason I haven't done so is that we haven't built our "dream house" yet- maybe I will in about 6-7 years. I want a big basement with indoor shooting range, safe room with large gun safe and supplies, reloading room, TV room, kitchen and of course a bathroom complete with urinal. No women allowed in da basement. The decorations will be entirely tasteless and I'm sure my wife will hate it
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Old September 20, 2012, 19:53   #26
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Seriously, it's a small matter to lag bolt it to a couple of studs and it can't be moved by hand.
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Old September 20, 2012, 21:13   #27
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Well, when you get enough $$ together , the job box could be a great ammo storage?
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Old September 22, 2012, 19:27   #28
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Most residental B&Es are fast smash and grabs. Most theives aren't prepared or skilled at breaking into any kind of "strong" strong box. But a couple of them can slide it and walk it out of the house if it is not bolted down. That is pretty easy to do.

Don't leave them any B&E tools: ie; pry bars, sledge hammers, etc., laying around that could give them a bright idea.
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Old March 03, 2019, 11:05   #29
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I recently bought a BARSKA Large Biometric Safe as per Chris suggestion and It's great. Thanks for the wonderful suggestion
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Old March 03, 2019, 12:01   #30
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http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html

Basics on safe buying. My recommendation is to buy a used commercial TL-30 safe from a store closing. Got two of them that way. Less than $500 each and moved them myself like a vertical milling machine. Using a pallet jack, pallet, and a hydraulic drop bed trailer. Check with your local locksmiths that deal with servicing safes for stores/business. They usually have at least one around or know where a suitable one is. I prefer the 1980's vintage AMSEC or Meilink brand. The Moslers have troublesome proprietary mounting hardware that makes switching locks out troublesome.

TL-15 rated safes are good too. Way better than the RSC (residential security container) rated "gun safes" that are peddled to the masses for big bucks.

Here is a video showing a TL-30 testing by the UL safe testing team.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtbGUbeM860

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Old March 03, 2019, 12:12   #31
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The used commercial safes often have shelves or smaller compartments that are welded to the inside walls. Easy to cut out with a grinder and smooth out the welds. Repaint and you're ready to make customize the interior to your liking.
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Old March 09, 2019, 11:59   #32
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This thread was resurrected after 7.5 years...such originality.
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Old March 18, 2019, 16:50   #33
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I recently bought a BARSKA Large Biometric Safe as per Chris suggestion and It's great. Thanks for the wonderful suggestion
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