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Old December 21, 2012, 18:24   #1
buckshot007
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Survival / Bushcraft Knife

This is an interesting slant on an old style of Survival / Bushcraft knife. I can see this working out well for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNYAlGz2xq8&feature=plcp
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Old December 22, 2012, 08:59   #2
RG Coburn
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Looks like a nice blade,but I like a bit less angle on the edge.Not sure why they are ground that way.
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Old December 22, 2012, 09:03   #3
L Haney
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Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
Not sure why they are ground that way.
If it has a 3/16th or 1/4 inch blade you don't have much choice. Otherwise you end up with a chisel.
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Old December 22, 2012, 09:22   #4
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Scandi grinds are good, pretty easy to sharpen but I really prefer a Flat grind if I had a choice. Mora knives are a good example of a Scandi grind knife.

Lots of hardcore (and lots of less serious) bushcraft/woodcraft types like Convex grinds for their strength and edge retention. I really don't like them much due to the items required to sharpen them correctly. I have an early CS Trail Master that's Convex but it never needs much sharpening since I don't use it very much. Flat and Scandi grinds can be free sharpened with a diamond stone or rod pretty easily in the field. I usually try to establish a micro bevel on my Scandi's.


Good article on blade grinds: (despite his dislike for secondary bevels on Scandi grinds)

Knife Grinds Explained
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=13

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Old December 22, 2012, 11:21   #5
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Okay,most of mine fall into the full flat or hollow ground catagories. I do have one Mora,but it seems like its a bitch to sharpen.
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Old December 22, 2012, 12:12   #6
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Those Scandi grinds are supposed to be easy because you basically lay it flat on the stone, then rock it up where the grind is flat on the stone surface and sharpen...a built in angle guide of sorts. I don't do that because I don't wanna scratch that whole grind surface. I raise mine a little higher and so a secondary bevel is established and it gives me sharp edges. Moras usually have pretty hard steel....is your knife Carbon or SS, RG?

Most of my knives are touched up right after I use them so don't ever need much. I ruined a really nice Gerber Honesteel sharpening a bunch of cheap SS kitchen knives for a friend. I was young but I learned quickly that 1) don't let knives get really dull and 2) use a cheap carbide sharpener on cheap kitchen knives that haven't been sharpened in 30 years. Common sense now but as I said...I was young and could "sharpen an anvil"!
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Old December 24, 2012, 08:29   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
Looks like a nice blade,but I like a bit less angle on the edge.Not sure why they are ground that way.
I have an early Kershaw folder with steel from Kai of Japan. I could never get an edge to stay sharp using the "traditional" angle. In the mid 80's our shop was next to Chris Reeve's newly founded knife shop. I took it to Chris and asked what I was doing wrong. He told me that steels (like the Kai steel) that are super hard must have a long, shallow angle (like the full flat angle shown above). He took it and sharpened it. Since that day, that knife has always been razor sharp. All I have to do is match the angle Chris put on it.

So, to answer your question as to why they are ground that way, I guess it would depend on the steel.

And after nearly 30 years, Chris and I work close to each other again. He's across the street from our new shop. Talked to him the other day. Thinking about buying one of his Green Beret knives...just having a hard time separating with over $300!
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Old December 24, 2012, 12:43   #8
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I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..
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Old December 24, 2012, 12:52   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..

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Old December 25, 2012, 08:39   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..
Anything man made can fail. Chris Reeve said the steel in my Kershaw was good, but tough, steel. Harder then most but not so hard it was brittle.
Kai steel of Japan is the same type of steel used in Samurai swords. It's folded and beated many times, to form layers.


Having heat treated much steel in my career, I can tell you just a few minutes at the wrong temp can easily ruin ANY steel! Your's might have sat in the oven too long during heating or too short of time during annealing.
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Old December 25, 2012, 14:37   #11
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I have found the cutco clip point knife to be most excellent, simple, affordable, easy to sharpen, doesn't slip wet or bloody.

http://www.cutco.com/products/produc...up=5719&ref=cs
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Old January 06, 2013, 15:04   #12
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Talk with Mike Lummio at bushcraftnw.com

Good designs, made in USA, good QC and great value,
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