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Old July 19, 2003, 15:57   #1
kroberts
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A really STUPID para kit questionm (receiver mods required?)

Something about this whole paratroop gun conversion thing is not getting through my thick head. If I buy that kit from Gunthings.com, can I install it on one of my FAL's top half? I know there is a modification required to the receiver or dust cover, but do I have to do the headspace thing?, or replace the barrel? I can change an engine on a 747 but something here is escaping me! Someone please synopsize this for me and use small words.

TIA

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Old July 19, 2003, 16:07   #2
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I dont know much about paras but i do know that you need a para dustcover and bolt carrier that probably come with the kit. I would reccomend checking your headspace if you change bolt carriers.
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Old July 19, 2003, 17:25   #3
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If you have a genuine para lower with all the bolt and spring parts, you can just slap it on a run-of-the mill upper

IF

you use an ARMS mount or a MODIFIED top cover (DSA sells 'em).

The way a receiver set up for the real para top cover differs from a run-of-the-mill receiver is this.
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File Type: jpg para cut 1.jpg (22.9 KB, 271 views)
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Old July 19, 2003, 17:27   #4
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File Type: jpg para cut 2.jpg (32.8 KB, 265 views)
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Old July 19, 2003, 17:32   #5
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File Type: jpg para cut 3.jpg (21.8 KB, 553 views)
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Old July 19, 2003, 17:39   #6
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You definitely don't have to "change barrels" and you probably won't have
to re-headspace the rifle. Most likely, the para bolt will be within .001" of
the headspace of whatever other bolt was in the rifle before you got the
hair up your ass to turn it into a para.

I did have to make one modification. The extractor on my para was fatter
than the extractor on the bolt I was already using on that upper. So, the
para extractor was dragging on the side of the receiver alongside the
ejection port, causing failure to go into battery. I tried to use a file to
reduce the extractor just a bit. But, as Ed would say, that part is "harder than
a whore's heart." So I got to use the Dremel. Now, the extractor does not
bonk into anything, and the rifle is 100% reliable.

Here is a para shorty with the ARMS mount top cover. This is on an
unmodified receiver.

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Old July 19, 2003, 18:17   #7
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I should have mentioned, the para top cover has a nose-dingus that goes in the "cut." The nose is kind of "closed" so that it will contain the recoil spring assembly. If you buy a modified top cover (so you don't have to modify your receiver), it will be "open" at the front, so the springs go flying all over the place when you pop the receiver open. The nose dingus prevents springus-fly-all-overus.


The para top cover is "closed" in the rear to provide a mounting point for the spring guide rod. A run-of-the-mill top cover is open in the front and rear.

The recoil spring assembly on a para is rather complicated, and in my opinion, delicate. It it comprised of a guide rod on the top cover, then two skinny springs which are joined at the ends buy a cylinder. Kinda hard to describe, but imagine a little piece of car antenna being used as a cylinder that serves as a guide to keep the springs from kinking. All this little business is surrounded by a larger spring that gives the whole thing more "oomph" to cycle the bolt carrier.
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Old July 19, 2003, 18:29   #8
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Is there some kind of award for using the word "dingus" properly, twice in the same post? If so, Jeter takes it.
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Old July 19, 2003, 18:41   #9
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OK.

One more post, and then I gotta go re-time a barrel, eat some pizza,
drink some beer, and watch some of the Band of Brothers DVD's I got
for Father's Day.

Here is the original spring set and guide tube installed on the ARMS mount
with the guide rod.
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File Type: jpg para top cover spring and arms mount.jpg (21.0 KB, 659 views)
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Old July 19, 2003, 20:07   #10
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Gary,

Thanks alot! I guess I wasn't asking the right questions. I'm going to bookmark this. When my kit comes in, this post will tell me almost everything I need to know. It certainly answered my questions for the moment.

after looking at the picture of the alteration to the upper receiver, I think I could just buy a carbide tipped counterbore and have it ground for OD and pilot diameter. Then I could do the mod myself.

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Old July 19, 2003, 20:10   #11
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Gary, I swear you have a knack for explaining stuff that anyone can understand.

For re-posting my Argy para pictures in your "how to" I'm buying lunch at Camp Perry.

You are the king of explanations....

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Old July 19, 2003, 22:10   #12
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I guess lunch will have to be steak, on account of everbody says I'm already full of BALONEY!

And thank YOU Mark for posting the pics in the first place so I could nab them for future blithering.
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Old July 20, 2003, 00:29   #13
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Those pictures look stragely familiar!

kroberts,

A couterbore will do the trick...that's what I used in the above pics. I had mine made with an 11" extension. It takes a few minutes to do if you don't have to change the mill over from another setup.
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