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Old June 21, 2010, 16:18   #1
FALaholic #: 20092
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 3,499
Product Reviews: Dillon Super Swager, Hornady Concentricity Gauge, and

*I'll integrate this into the "Cartmann's complete .308 Reloading" Later.

Here are the Reviews

Product #1 Dillon Super Swager - $96-
There is nothing I can see about the Super Swager that has not already been said. I hate buying a new tool when the old tool already does the job (RCBS Swager). However, after 5 months staring at 4000 Military Cases, I figured it is time I get the Dillon. I had to tell myself since I save countless hours with Dillon over the RCBS, that the money was justified.

This thing is easy to use and adjust, best of all it is super duper fast. For those that you don't know what swaging is, it is the process of removing the "primer crimp" that is all Military brass has, you have to remove this crimp so a new primer can go in. It only needs to be done once, but that one time is a PITA with the RCBS, and super easy with the Dillon.

Product #2: Hornandy Concentricity Gauge Tool - $92
Difference in weight of powder and bullet seating has very little affect in accuracy. Inaccuracies and "Flyers" come into play when the bullet is not perfectly concentric. This tool right here not only measures concentricity (also called "runout"), but also corrects it. I was able to get all my test bullets to within .002" runout.

At the range, even though my groups did not tighten after using this tool, it seems to work as advertise as I did not get any "flyers" with my 10 test loads.

Product #3: RCBS Flash Hole deburring tool - $13
The saying goes is that this tool makes your flash hole "uniform" so it will get a more consistent flash and powder burn. Normally I never debur the flash-hole as part of my case prep. I am not sure if this tool is even needed or how much of a difference it makes. If there is a difference, I am not seeing it. When I am making precision rounds, I flash hole debur every case with this tool, but that's only because it's a simple process and better safe than sorry right? Same goes for adding a drop of holy water to each round, not sure if helps, but better safe than sorry right?

Product #4: Lee hand trimming tools - about $25
This is how I use to trim my cases before I bought the $400 Giraud. These mostly-Lee Tools only cost about $25 total. I should have put this in the "Cartmann complete .308 Reloading" thread.
- Lee Ball Cutter $6
- RCBS inside and outside the case chamfer tool ($12)
- Lee lockstud for drill or electric screwdriver ($5)
- Lee .308 shell holder for lockstud ($3)
- Drill or electric screwdriver that can turn slowly (Free - you should have one already, if you don't then check in your man card and apply to be a female at the nearest FEMA office)

The Ball cutter is easy to use, it has a case length gauge and you cut until it does not cut anymore more. The gauge hits the bottom of the base thereby ceasing to cut, no thinking involved. For the chamfer tool, just half a second for each the inside and outside of the case is all you need for nice chamfer. These Lee trimmer tools are easy to use, and they work. However, they are about 10 times slower than a Giraud. Also you get the pleasure of cramped fingers with these tools if you are doing 200 or more in one sitting.

Product #5: MCR Bullet Meplatt Trimmer - $75
I have not range tested this tool yet. I am not sure if it is needed, but I will say it puts a nice looking chamfer on the hollow point bullets. So if you are into artistic bullets, than you have already spent your money well . Tim at Velocity Plus (Precsion shooting guy in Las Vegas) told me the Lee Neck die and the Lee bullet seating die is plenty good enough for matches, he does not believe in "Hoky gadgets and ancient Religions" for precision shooting, but did say that the Meplatt Trimmer does make a difference once you go past 600 yards (at least half MOA, YMMV based on shooter). I tend to trust Tim and if it is good enough for him, then it is good enough for me.

Here is the tool, as you can see it comes in 3 peices, a with a trimmer, an inside chamfer, and the main body that holds the bullet. On the far left, you can see I placed a bullet inside the body already.

It is easy to adjust and use. To set, just place the trimmer until it touches the bullet, then place some "high tech" sheets of paper to get the perfect adjustment each and every time. Here I use 2 sheets of paper and with these 2 sheets in place I then adjust the trimmer again so it touches the bullet. Now remove the paper and the trimmer will now go about "2 sheets of paper" further into the body well to trim the hallowpoint of the bullet. I might eventually go 3 sheets of paper as I am still getting some jagged edges here and there with 2 sheets of paper. For the inside the case chamfer tool, I used one sheet of paper for my adjustment. You want to avoid trimming too much as you will change the BC of the bullet if you do trim too much. You should only trim just enough to debur and that's it.

Bullets on the left are 175gr Sierra Matchkings right out of the box. The Bullets on the right are the same bullets, but trimmed with the MCR Meplatt trimming tool.

Product #6: Hornady Press conversion to LNL quick change bushings - $10
This thing right here can convert any press with 1 1/4 -12 threads to a press that will be able to use Hornady quick change bushings. Here it is on a Lee Classic Press. No adjusting of dies ever again. Just place in, turn 1/18" turn and the already adjusted die locks into place at the exact same position it was set at before.

The quick change bushings already comes on all Hornady presses, such as this LNL Progressive you see here.
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Old July 02, 2010, 15:43   #2
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a note on the Dillon Super Swage 600;

I purchased one for myself way back when Dillon first offered it in their product line (yes, the price was lower back then)

first of all do not get me wrong - this is a wonderful product and I will fight tooth and nail for it when it comes to swaging primer pockets, mine saved me days (if not weeks) of work and probably kept me from a very early in life, very bad case of Carpal Tunnel that would have dealt me a severe problem over the years ....... 'nuff said there, now onward

I learned on a steep curve with the Dillon Swage, so a few things to pay attention to

first separate your brass by head-stamp (keep reading and you will learn why)

second, while you separate by head-stamp cull any brass that might even look like a head separation or a fold along the shoulder or case mouth

next when you begin to set up and adjust the swage you need to develop a feel for the stroke (take special note of this, while I was on the steep learning curve I crushed quite a few cases at the base because I did not separate by head stamp and I was in a hurry and should have been paying closer attention)

remember that you can vary the depth of the stroke manually if it "feels" wrong while you are forcing the rod into the primer pocket to push the crimp out of the way (you are flaring the primer pocket with the rod)

visually check each case, look at the primer pocket and make sure that you have not folded any brass burrs over the flash hole from the inside of the case

once you get set up and get started don't forget to check every so often to make sure that you are not opening up the primer pocket too much, you can easily do that and primers will fall out of the pocket because you have stretched the brass too far You don't want to waste the entire batch of brass that you are working on now do you ??

Overall, the Dillon Super Swage 600 is a very good quality product that I highly recommend, just keep your attention span trained on the job you are doing and you will benefit from your purchase
Far better it is to dare mighty things,
than to take refuge with those timid spirits
that know neither victory, nor defeat.
Teddy Roosvelt

Pray for peace, but prepare for war.
Winston Churchill
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