installing Falcon trigger pull reduction kit

[W.E.G.]

After my trigger-pull weighing adventure this morning…

TEN, TWENTY, THIRTY, FORTY, FIFTY OR MORE….
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...hreadid=175012


I decided to install the Falcon Arms “Trigger Pull Reduction Kit.”
http://www.falconarms.com/xcart/prod...?productid=252



Inspecting the shipping bag, I see it is too small to include a brick. So there must be some other sort of magic inside.

(edit - 2006-10-13
instructions for assembly of upper receiver unit at
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...postid=1274994 )

[W.E.G.]

The preferred tool for opening mailing envelopes.

They don't make 'em like that anymore.

[W.E.G.]

Inside the bag, we find three springs and a "caution sheet."

[W.E.G.]

Its definitely not an "instruction sheet."

Just the usual lawyer-speak about how you might put an eye out with it,
and you better not sue us if you get hurt using it.

[W.E.G.]

Here is the important stuff.

Notice that the SEAR spring is GREEN.

In this particular set, ONLY the sear spring is green. In subsequent sets I have obtained, all three springs have green stuff on them. Looks like some sort of coating - although the last two sets I got look like the green stuff was not applied evenly.

I have no idea what is the purpose of the green stuff, or why it would be applied unevenly - unless maybe it is just intended to identify the FALCON springs as different from the springs that were installed in complete rifles at the original FAL factory.

[W.E.G.]

Now we separate the upper receiver assembly from the lower receiver assembly.

Taking a close look at the "guts" in the lower.

[W.E.G.]

Pull the trigger and allow the hammer to go forward.

Place your hand so as to cushion the forward movement of the hammer. Otherwise you will batter the retaining plate by allowing the hammer to fly forward unimpeded.

[W.E.G.]

Now remove the hammer spring cylinder (or shroud - or whatever its called).

Jam a big wide screwdriver between the shroud and the receiver.

Gently pry it upward and out of the retaining recess in the lower receiver.

Before it comes free, place your hand in such a way as to prevent the shroud from flying under the refrigerator that you haven't dusted under since you moved in.

[W.E.G.]

Here is a pic of the shroud and spring with the tension released.

[W.E.G.]

And here are the aforesaid "guts" removed from the rifle.

Shroud, spring and hammer plunger.

[W.E.G.]

Here's a pic looking into the lower receiver with the aforesaid guts removed.

Notice the position of the selector.

(Yes, that is an "inch" selector in a metric rifle - I like it OK that way I guess.)

[W.E.G.]

In order to proceed with further disassembly, we need to move the selector towards the 12 o'clock position.

[W.E.G.]

OK, now don't get disoriented looking at the pics.

In this pic, I've rotated the receiver 180 degrees so you can see down into it from the other side.

The "front of the gun" is now pointing to the right.

Note the two red lines.

The line on the left points to the notch where the tittie that the line on the right points to has to go.

That's some pretty bad grammar I know.

How about this:
Ya gotta get the tittie out the notch.

[W.E.G.]

See, like this.

[W.E.G.]

Then it comes out like this.

[W.E.G.]

Starting to look pretty empty in the back end of the receiver.

[W.E.G.]

Now, let's flip it back around so the "front of the gun" is pointing to the left again, and we'll start working on the front end of the receiver.

Pay particular attention to the part indicated by the red line.

That's the "locking plate."

The locking plate secures the two axis pins for the hammer and trigger respectively.

The locking plate comes out next.

You can see in this pic that the locking plate has already slightly begun to rotate out of its normal position.

[W.E.G.]

As the locking plate is rotated out of place, notice how the hammer moves further forward than was possible before the locking plate was moved.

It is not possible to remove either the hammer or the trigger without first removing the locking plate.

[W.E.G.]

The locking plate lifts out just like so.

[W.E.G.]

Now the hammer axis pin is removed with very little effort.

[W.E.G.]

With the hammer axis pin removed, the hammer just falls out.

Sorry for the blurry pic.

Kinda tricky to keep everything from falling all over the place, and trip the camera shutter, and hold steady all at the same time sometimes.

[W.E.G.]

Now, we work on the trigger/sear axis pin.

Careful here. When you pull this pin, you will release spring tension on the sear spring. Parts might go flying.

You don't have to be AS careful with this one as you were with the hammer spring. But, there is still that potential to chase parts around the kitchen. And these parts are smaller. So, the cat might eat it before you can find it. Its no fun picking FAL parts out of cat poo, or disentangling them from hairballs.

[W.E.G.]

There we go.

Notice how the sear has pushed forward from the spring tension on the sear spring.

[W.E.G.]

another pic of basically the same thing

[W.E.G.]

Okey-dokey.

We about got her stripped down now.

Let's get that sear out of there. Ignore that splut.

[W.E.G.]

...and now with the sear completely out of the way

[W.E.G.]

Let's get that trigger out of there.

[W.E.G.]

Just wiggle the trigger free from the trigger plunger (red arrow) and lift out of the receiver.

[W.E.G.]

Next, we need to remove the sear plunger and sear spring from the trigger.

[W.E.G.]

like so

and notice the recess (red line) that secures the sear spring to keep it from wandering around during operation

[W.E.G.]

This is the factory IMBEL sear spring.

Notice how one end is wider than the other.

The narrow end locks into the notch on the sear plunger, and the wide end sort of locks into the recess on the trigger.

The Falcon spring is the same size at both ends of the spring. I don't mention that to suggest that I have a problem with the variation. But, WECSOG'rs should be aware of it whenver they are tinkering with the fire control parts. The Falcon spring is more likely to fall loose from the plunger or the hammer while you are tinkering. Since the kit only comes with ONE sear spring, you don't want to get clumsy and feed the only one to the cat.

[W.E.G.]

Hopefully, you have been keeping up with the parts as you go.

[W.E.G.]

I've got more to cover on this.

But, its getting close to go-to-dinner-and-a-movie time.

So, I'm gonna take a break, and change this T-shirt that I've been wearing for the last three days, and I might even scrub a few spots before we go out.

I'll get back to this and finish my rant directly.

[dirtyrice]

cool. ive been wanting to do this myself. good job on the step by step.

[chromestarhustler]

hey thanks a ton. ar15 lowers i can put together in my sleep. i am always thinking i wanted to do this on a couple of the fals but was always scared to. the last time i took the whole lower apart it took 3 hours to reassemble and i had to take another rifle half way apart to figure it out. oklahoma blueprint .lol.


now you are gonna polish all those burrs and sharp edges with some 6000 grit before you put it back together?

[1811GNR]

This might save you a little time Gary.

[fastfreddy]

Great pictorial for those who haven't yet learnt their way around the lower! Maybe Falcon Arms will pay you to put together an instruction sheet. This is a great FALfiles community service.

When you get-r-done, take it out with your hardest primered Port ammo and let us know how it works. I did a "major spring project" before the fine folks at Falcon worked it out commercially and I found that the limiting factor on trigger pull lightening is how soft you can go on the hammer spring and still have 100% reliability with surplus ammo. This project involved many, many spring combinations and lots of shooting before I got 100% firing of hard primers as well as 100% trigger resetting with the lighest pull I could achieve. It also involved polishing parts, installing an FSE (3) hts set and some VERY light arkansas stone polishing of the engagement. Oh yeah, I also slathered on some high-tech "splut".

Thanks to Falcon Arms and to WEG for their efforts!

[Lon Moer]

I'm wonderin' if he's going to need a crutch.

[dirtyrice]

so will these springs work on an inch gun just as easy?

[W.E.G.]

Just got back from sushi and viewing "Lady in the Water."
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn...072001922.html
What a cool movie.
Narfs, and Scrunts, and Tertooklians (or some such) - plus saving the world and cosmic awareness and freaks and stereotypes - but no FAL's. Dammit!
So only 9 out of 10 stars for omitting FAL's.

Oh, and the narf is really a hottie.

Sushi was damn good too.


Now, on that question about the spring kit working on the inch gun.

The answer is no.

Inch fire-control springs are COMPLETELY different than metric. No interchangeability whatsoever for fire control springs.

[W.E.G.]

Now, let's continue with this adventure by finishing our disassembly.

We next need to remove the trigger plunger assembly.

[W.E.G.]

a little closer look at the trigger plunger

[W.E.G.]

To remove the trigger plunger you first gotta remove the pistol grip.

Start on this end.

[W.E.G.]

looks like getting into this thing is gonna be like getting into my kid's bedroom

gotta climb all over stuff to get to whatever I'm looking for

[W.E.G.]

What is all this stuff anyway?

Let's see, we've got an allen-wrench for the optic, an extra battery for the optic, and a wad of plastic bag for filler.

[W.E.G.]

Under all the stuff we see the slotted grip retaining nut and a smooshed yellow fomie earplug.

More on the earplug shortly.

[W.E.G.]

Removal of the grip nut is pretty straightforward.

Just get a big-ass flathead screwdriver, and unscrew the nut.
Lefty loosey.

[W.E.G.]

Now the with the grip nut removed, the grip should just pull free from the receiver.

Notice how the tail of the trigger guard is sandwiched between the grip and the receiver.

now this is where the yellow foamie earplug is relevant. When the tail of the trigger guard gets sandwiched between the grip and the receiver, there is sometimes some slop. When there is slop, the trigger guard rattles up and down, and is generally annoying. You can bend the trigger guard to make it behave, or you can just cram a yellow foamie earplug in there and accomplish the same thing. Besides, whenver I have to bend a part to fit, I always end up bending it this way and that way a dozen times before I get it right - or as is often the case - I break it. I got plenty of foamie earplugs. So it works for me.

[W.E.G.]

foamie earplug in the grip

(actually just part of a foamie - a full foamie was too big - trim as necessary)

[W.E.G.]

Here, we see the grip removed from the grip stud, and the trigger guard dislodged.

The front end of the trigger guard just slides out of a slot in the receiver.

Notice that the trigger plunger assembly is still in place.