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Old August 08, 2010, 01:35   #1
Buster H
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FN Belgian humpback STANAG scope mount too long?

FAL Team,

I have a mount like the one pictured here:
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...hreadid=292534

Anyways, I put the mount on and gently tapped it forward until the nose seated.

The upper would mate with the lower, but the horizontal locking lever seems to be stuck in the "halfway" position.

After some more vigourous tapping it looks like the lower portions of the mount are a bit long, and they hang over the end of the top cover rails in the reciever.

The rifle feels firmly locked, but as I said, the horizontal locking lever isn;t fully locked.

So, before I start grinding on this Belgian mount, what else can I do to get a full lockup?

I want a nice tight mount, but I also want to avoid firing induced rifle unlocking.

Rifle is a DSA built STG.

Thanks,

Buster
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Last edited by Buster H; August 10, 2010 at 17:45.
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Old August 08, 2010, 05:55   #2
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try "pressing" the rifle closed HARD (not slamming it) and while putting that pressure on it try pushing the locking lever forward a little and see if it doesnt seat..mine had the same problem with those Greek mounts ..


they are a tight fit !
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Old August 08, 2010, 20:24   #3
Buster H
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Barbcue,

No dice. I tried, and still my horizontal locking lever won't go all the way to the down position.

When you say "try pushing the locking lever forward" does that mean your horizontal locking lever has some fore and aft slip/play, or do you have a vertical locking lever?

I tried firmly pressing, and I get a "thunk" that sound's like positive lockup, but still the locking lever is not fully down.

Thanks,

Buster
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Old August 10, 2010, 01:05   #4
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Sorry Buster i have a vertical locking lever..when i closed my upper and lower it wasent quite seating all the way with the greek mount..

so i applied pressure to the upper "pushing down" hard and then was able to push my locking lever over to get it to fully seat..

you might be able to take a tiny bit off the nose of the mount to get it to fit. but be careful when doing so not to take to much..

I wouldnt take anything off the back of the mount as i would be afraid to not be able to eyeball both rear sides equally ..the nose is where i would start and would be a less noticable "WESCOG" job..
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Old August 10, 2010, 16:42   #5
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I have had a hard time getting Belgian mounts to fit anything but real Belgian receivers. I take a dremmel and relieve a little from the front of the receiver and they will fit just fine. I have done this to DSA and Coonan receivers.One for my M2 with the Belgian offset mount with OIP and also for my Dutch Fal with the KRR scope and mount. These mounts fit just fine on my G Series and commercial Steyr import Belgian made guns .EX1
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Old August 10, 2010, 17:44   #6
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BBQ and EX1,

Thanks for the tips gents.

Looks like some very judicious grinding is in order.

Regarding a vertical or horizontal locking lever: would the type of lever matter, as the problem seems to be the length of the mount not allowing the lower and the receiver to mate and lock up properly.

Buster
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Old August 10, 2010, 18:50   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Buster H
BBQ and EX1,

Thanks for the tips gents.

Looks like some very judicious grinding is in order.

Regarding a vertical or horizontal locking lever: would the type of lever matter, as the problem seems to be the length of the mount not allowing the lower and the receiver to mate and lock up properly.

Buster
i wouldnt think so Buster doing as EX-1 has said would be the best way to go (modding the receiver instead of the mount)..
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Old August 10, 2010, 18:59   #8
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Awhile back I had the same problem with a SUIT cover on a metric receiver. I used the stones from a Lansky knife sharpener, gradually working from coarse through medium to fine as I got closer to perfect.
I think this is one of those times when slow, careful & dead square is important.
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Old August 10, 2010, 23:58   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by brownknees
I think this is one of those times when slow, careful & dead square is important.

a big +1

Buster, please take your time and go easy..your talking about removing only a mil or 2 of material here..you dont want to remove to much..

you still want a "TIGHT FIT"of the mount ,otherwise the mount will slide back and forth with the impulse of recoil and your zero will be FUBAR !
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Old August 11, 2010, 19:53   #10
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Gents,

I'll be veddy veddy careful...

And the consensus here is removing an RCH from the nose of the mount is the best course of action?

I agree it would be easier to keep square that way.

The only issue:

The back of the mount is angled/slanted so that the lower portion of the mount protrudes from beyond the back of the receiver while the upper part of the mount does not.

See exaggerated sketch of angle below.
Brackets are the back of the receiver, slashes are the back edges of the sides of the mount.

____\ <<<<< aft area of mount that doesn't currently touch
.......\]
........]\ <<<<< "tabs" that would have to be removed to get lock-up,
_____] \ <<<<< if material was to be removed from back of mount


(dots are there to get spacing right)

So if I remove any material from the nose, I will still have some gap at the back.

Not grinding on anything too soon or in a hurry.

Your input, as always, is appreciated.

Buster
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Old August 11, 2010, 20:40   #11
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looking at mine,, i see exactly what you mean..i would say if your set on fixing this problem yourself that removing material from the lower portion of the rear part of the mount is really the only way to not have excessive "gap" between the rear top part of the mount and the lower back plate..

why they were cut like that i have no idea..my non greek contract Belgian mount doesnt seem to have this issue..i will look closer at them tomorrow but the originals dont appear to have such a drastic angle to them..

its almost like the DSA receivers should have been cut a wee bit deeper as well
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Old August 12, 2010, 07:46   #12
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I worked from the back on mine, the front lined up & matched the curve really well & I didn't want to furk it up by changing it. The fact that the Lansky has a flat surface & a built in handle was a big help in re-dressing the rear surface which is flat, not curved.

Now if the curve had been wrong, as happened with an ARMS mount I'd work on the front end instead.
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Old August 12, 2010, 12:53   #13
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your not talking about removing much at all i tried a few pic's to show what we are talking about. my "Pic Fu" is crap, but the second pic shows the protruding lower edge the best.






its a very very small amount that needs removing then hit with a B Casey pen or something to stop rust since you will now have bare metal after fileing..
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Old August 13, 2010, 15:03   #14
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Re: FN Belgian humpback STANAG scope mount too long?

Quote:
Originally posted by Buster H
The upper would mate with the lower, but the horizontal locking lever seems to be stuck in the "halfway" position.
If it were mine and it didn't pop open under recoil I would leave it as is. If it did pop open I would file on the mount until it didn't.
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Old August 18, 2010, 17:17   #15
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my advice would be,

that when we have a rifle built from now on ,make sure the builder take this into consideration and mills it out just slightly in the topcover nose area .

Just enough ! to get the Greek and Belgian mounts to fit without proturding in back..would be a shame to not have all these cool mounts fit your rifles because this fix was over looked !..

at least that what im haveing done from now on
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