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Old December 19, 2017, 15:06   #1
RG Coburn
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on a Ruger 10/22....

What is that fat pin called,that the bolt is grooved for,when it recoils to the rear? Have a 10/22 that that pin is missing from. Anybody got one,or know where to get one?
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Old December 19, 2017, 15:13   #2
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bolt stop pin OR bolt buffer (if other than steel)

Can either be solid steel, neoprene or neoprene sleeved steel pin.

Available everywhere, so to speak.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=ruger+bolt...v89-6_f&ia=web
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Old December 19, 2017, 18:59   #3
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If you have to get one anyway get one of the Kidd units. Quiets down the bolt and softens the blow. Volquartsen probably has one too but I only have experience with the Kidd unit. I like mine quite a bit.
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Old December 19, 2017, 19:14   #4
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Quote:
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If you have to get one anyway get one of the Kidd units. Quiets down the bolt and softens the blow. Volquartsen probably has one too but I only have experience with the Kidd unit. I like mine quite a bit.
I tried the 2 piece Kidd, but like the one piece neoprene better as it's less fussy going into place. Tuffer Buffer or the like, or find neonbee on Rimfire Central, she's great!
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Old December 19, 2017, 21:36   #5
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Buy at least a couple when order and pay shipping. They eventually wear. I use the recoil buffers from Power Custom. Ordered several ten packs of every shim, several titanium hammers, triggers, sears, bolt releases, mag releases, etc to get through projects working on and have a few extra. The light weight and precision machining always go together slick for an under 2.5 pound trigger pull without creep or travel.

Ordered my first two titanium bolt charging handles. Always thought they were a bit spendy but till try don't know if they are worth it. Got the standard titanium and the skeletonized version. Will know soon if worth the price. Know the titanium firing pins are. If shoot mostly cheap ammo buy the stainless firing pin as the titanium have tendency not to strike rim firmly enough to light off hard rims.
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Old December 20, 2017, 08:12   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
What is that fat pin called,that the bolt is grooved for,when it recoils to the rear? Have a 10/22 that that pin is missing from. Anybody got one,or know where to get one?
I looked in my parts box last night and found my original steel bolt stop.

PM me your address if you can use it and I will ship it to you, gratis.

Well, I could use another positive feedback, here.
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Old December 20, 2017, 11:20   #7
RG Coburn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenTea View Post
I looked in my parts box last night and found my original steel bolt stop.

PM me your address if you can use it and I will ship it to you, gratis.

Well, I could use another positive feedback, here.
I'd be more than happy to pay you something for it and the shipping. PM inbound.
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Old December 20, 2017, 11:25   #8
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Thanks for the replies,guys. this rifle is just a garden variety plain-Jane 10/22,with the world's most homely wood stock. I bought it used a few years back,but never shot it. I took it apart the other night for a cleaning and oiling,and noticed the pin missing. I'm wanting to get this rifle in order,to hopefully find it a new home on the files.
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Old December 24, 2017, 14:23   #9
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Originally Posted by RG Coburn View Post
Thanks for the replies,guys. this rifle is just a garden variety plain-Jane 10/22,with the world's most homely wood stock. I bought it used a few years back,but never shot it. I took it apart the other night for a cleaning and oiling,and noticed the pin missing. I'm wanting to get this rifle in order,to hopefully find it a new home on the files.
If want trigger done and willing to send it to me will slick it up and mail back at my expense. Cost a whopping $10 for spring kit. Just ordered multiple bulk packs of Power Custom titanium hammer shims, trigger shims, buffers, spring kits, plus pile of hammers, triggers and other parts in mix of price ranges. Just a $10 spring kit plus trip across the hammer and sear jig will really slick up a 10/22 trigger. Have several "plain jane" Walmart 10/22's that following a trigger job, adding less than $20 worth of hardware and springs plus some labor become fine shooters in modified factory stocks and no expensive parts. 10/22 can benefit from a few very small tricks or spend as much as want to.
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Last edited by hueyville; December 24, 2017 at 17:20.
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Old December 24, 2017, 16:09   #10
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http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR...ffer_p_12.html
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Old December 25, 2017, 06:39   #11
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I appreciate the offer,Huey,but this is just a rifle I'm getting to original shape to sell. I might look into an aftermarket pin for my own 10/22. Seems like a logical idea to use a more pliable,forgiving material than a steel pin.
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Old December 25, 2017, 13:36   #12
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Polyurethane/high durometer rubber covered stainless steel pin Kidd units are in my heavily abused 10/22's. To have some cushioning, low chance of breakage if not regularly inspected and replaced adds peace of mind. Notice polyurethane units often come in three packs because they wear then fail. I use Power Custom units in fine tuned rifles that take apart relatively often to clean and inspect trigger pack.

Have 10/22's with mostly OEM parts in trigger groups (swap wide triggers from 10/22T's into cheap rifles when have from upgrading a T model) that are use/abuse/ignore then use/abuse/ignore some more rifles that do not open up and inspect unless trigger gets to point hosing with Gun Blaster then oiling doesn't seem to remove gritty feel. The abused rifles get Kidd unit linked above. Just squaring, honing and polishing all mating surfaces with spring swap, drill/tap for over travel screw and factory trigger can become slick as waxing polished ice.

Torque Segway:
In the optics forum have posts on importance of inch/pound, inch/ounce plus foot/pound torque wrenches. Rout a recess in bottom of my 10/22's to epoxy a brass grommet that tighten take-down screw against then play with torque value of screw till find best accuracy. Have beginning value that seems to work pretty good but when dialing in personal rifle and find ammo it likes will lower/increase torque value of take-down screw to see if group size varies and whether it's for better or worse.

It's amazing how much a group can open or close based on just a few inch/pounds difference in tension of take-down screw. Same with torque value of screws that hold V-Block as if one is tighter/looser than other barrel might have some cant left or right or allow extra barrel sag. I torque a factory V-Block for skinny barrels and wide aftermarket V-Blocks to different values. No need to lay down hard on a block for a skinny tapered barrel but is important each screw is torqued to same value in a specific pattern/method.

Soon after 10/22T's were released called Ruger tech support to ask proper torque value for V-Block, heard lots of typing followed by long pause on hold. First few calls and email inquiries got no factory suggested torque value. Finally after multiple calls got transferred into gunsmith department and got a range of values for V-Blocks (Whether skinny or fat barrel) that was wider than expected. (14 to 28 inch/pounds) Assumed they would be using a specific torque wrench for each parts installation as traveled down the line. Kidd says 10 inch/lbs for V-Blocks due to stripping threads and over torque causing barrel droop. I use 10 to 14 in/lbs on skinny barrels and 14 to18 inch/lbs on heavy as starting point.

If willing to disassemble rifle, adjust and reassemble can find small accuracy improvements altering torque value on V-Block, especially with some of the pretensioned carbon wrap and steel lined aluminium units. Bedded blocks, bedded receivers, partially bedded barrels all change setup of a rifle. Why I like the little $200 rifles, can put a lot of labor but no money in parts to improve accuracy significantly. Can bolt on expensive parts randomly and not improve accuracy at all, help it a little or turn into tack driver. Method is biggest influence from bedding, squaring, adjusting torque can all make a huge difference on whether your $300 barrel and $250 trigger helps some or a lot.

If have metal in in stock to tension take-down screw against 20 inch/lbs is good starting point then go up and down, record your rifles preferred torque. On older rifles, especially bargain models sold through Walmart where have a steel screw tensioning against wood as humidity changes, wood relaxes after initial tightening, rifle can change its behaviour significantly. Whether any of receiver or V-Block area has bedding compound in combination with metal bushing for tightening screw against.

If willing to disassemble and reassemble a rifle a dozen times often find magic combination of torque values that finds mechanical/harmonic happiness. Have four personal 10/22's that other than some bedding compound, $10 in springs, $1 plumbing fitting, 10 cent grub screw to adjust trigger overtravel, lapping compound, lot of time, finding right ammo, cut group size in half with under $20 total parts/materials. Much of that time was changing torque values back and forth everywhere possible except mount/scope screws, manufacturers recommended only on scope screws, swapping sear/hammer/other springs from inventory.
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Old December 30, 2017, 08:27   #13
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My 10/22 only has to be minute-of-woodchuck. Usually I can sneak within 50 yards of them. Then I open up like Bill Duke in "Predator"...
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Old January 06, 2018, 08:46   #14
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My 10/22 only has to be minute-of-woodchuck. Usually I can sneak within 50 yards of them. Then I open up like Bill Duke in "Predator"...
I like to choose which eyeball and punch it out the back of their skull. Right before this cold weather hit the squirrels went crazy trying to get in attics of home and business. New Years eve/day shot a total of 13 at house then Jan 2nd shot seven at work before they dissapeared into their hides first day of extreme cold. Expect them to start coming out hungry any minute and my 10/22's have to be spot on or risk having stray bullets in the neighborhood.
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