Survival / Bushcraft Knife

buckshot007 · December 21, 2012, 17:24

This is an interesting slant on an old style of Survival / Bushcraft knife. I can see this working out well for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNYAlGz2xq8&feature=plcp

RG Coburn · December 22, 2012, 07:59

Looks like a nice blade,but I like a bit less angle on the edge.Not sure why they are ground that way.

**L Haney** · December 22, 2012, 08:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by RG Coburn

Not sure why they are ground that way.

If it has a 3/16th or 1/4 inch blade you don't have much choice. Otherwise you end up with a chisel.

NEWFNL1A1 · December 22, 2012, 08:22

Scandi grinds are good, pretty easy to sharpen but I really prefer a Flat grind if I had a choice. Mora knives are a good example of a Scandi grind knife.

Lots of hardcore (and lots of less serious) bushcraft/woodcraft types like Convex grinds for their strength and edge retention. I really don't like them much due to the items required to sharpen them correctly. I have an early CS Trail Master that's Convex but it never needs much sharpening since I don't use it very much. Flat and Scandi grinds can be free sharpened with a diamond stone or rod pretty easily in the field. I usually try to establish a micro bevel on my Scandi's.

Good article on blade grinds: (despite his dislike for secondary bevels on Scandi grinds)

Knife Grinds Explained
http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=13

RG Coburn · December 22, 2012, 10:21

Okay,most of mine fall into the full flat or hollow ground catagories. I do have one Mora,but it seems like its a bitch to sharpen.

NEWFNL1A1 · December 22, 2012, 11:12

Those Scandi grinds are supposed to be easy because you basically lay it flat on the stone, then rock it up where the grind is flat on the stone surface and sharpen...a built in angle guide of sorts. I don't do that because I don't wanna scratch that whole grind surface. I raise mine a little higher and so a secondary bevel is established and it gives me sharp edges. Moras usually have pretty hard steel....is your knife Carbon or SS, RG?

Most of my knives are touched up right after I use them so don't ever need much. I ruined a really nice Gerber Honesteel sharpening a bunch of cheap SS kitchen knives for a friend. I was young but I learned quickly that 1) don't let knives get really dull and 2) use a cheap carbide sharpener on cheap kitchen knives that haven't been sharpened in 30 years. Common sense now but as I said...I was young and could "sharpen an anvil"!

**idsubgun** · December 24, 2012, 07:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by RG Coburn

Looks like a nice blade,but I like a bit less angle on the edge.Not sure why they are ground that way.

I have an early Kershaw folder with steel from Kai of Japan. I could never get an edge to stay sharp using the "traditional" angle. In the mid 80's our shop was next to Chris Reeve's newly founded knife shop. I took it to Chris and asked what I was doing wrong. He told me that steels (like the Kai steel) that are super hard must have a long, shallow angle (like the full flat angle shown above). He took it and sharpened it. Since that day, that knife has always been razor sharp. All I have to do is match the angle Chris put on it.

So, to answer your question as to why they are ground that way, I guess it would depend on the steel.

And after nearly 30 years, Chris and I work close to each other again. He's across the street from our new shop. Talked to him the other day. Thinking about buying one of his Green Beret knives...just having a hard time separating with over $300!

RG Coburn · December 24, 2012, 11:43

I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..

NEWFNL1A1 · December 24, 2012, 11:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by RG Coburn

I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..

JasonB · December 25, 2012, 07:34

A good article and it has a link on re-establishing a botched Scandi grind:

http://www.ragweedforge.com/scankniv.html

**idsubgun** · December 25, 2012, 07:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by RG Coburn

I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..

Anything man made can fail. Chris Reeve said the steel in my Kershaw was good, but tough, steel. Harder then most but not so hard it was brittle.
Kai steel of Japan is the same type of steel used in Samurai swords. It's folded and beated many times, to form layers.

Having heat treated much steel in my career, I can tell you just a few minutes at the wrong temp can easily ruin ANY steel! Your's might have sat in the oven too long during heating or too short of time during annealing.

JasonB · December 25, 2012, 07:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEWFNL1A1

Lots of hardcore (and lots of less serious) bushcraft/woodcraft types like Convex grinds for their strength and edge retention. I really don't like them much due to the items required to sharpen them correctly. I have an early CS Trail Master that's Convex but it never needs much sharpening since I don't use it very much.

I have a Fallkniven F1 and like it, but never have gotten it really dull(even after a fair amount of use). Haven't tried it yet, but supposedly they can be kept running in the field with a piece of leather glued on a small piece of paint stirrer with some abrasive compound embedded in it. I definitely wouldn't want a convex with a cheap grade of steel and I don't think an F1 is10 times better than a Mora.

0302 · December 25, 2012, 13:37

I have found the cutco clip point knife to be most excellent, simple, affordable, easy to sharpen, doesn't slip wet or bloody.

http://www.cutco.com/products/produc...up=5719&ref=cs

**MajHenryWest** · January 06, 2013, 14:04

Talk with Mike Lummio at bushcraftnw.com

Good designs, made in USA, good QC and great value,

December 21, 2012, 17:24	#1
buckshot007 Registered FALaholic #: 18939 Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Europe Posts: 285	Survival / Bushcraft Knife This is an interesting slant on an old style of Survival / Bushcraft knife. I can see this working out well for me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNYAlGz2xq8&feature=plcp

December 22, 2012, 08:22	#4
NEWFNL1A1 Out standing in his field Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 43401 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Tx Posts: 3,191	Scandi grinds are good, pretty easy to sharpen but I really prefer a Flat grind if I had a choice. Mora knives are a good example of a Scandi grind knife. Lots of hardcore (and lots of less serious) bushcraft/woodcraft types like Convex grinds for their strength and edge retention. I really don't like them much due to the items required to sharpen them correctly. I have an early CS Trail Master that's Convex but it never needs much sharpening since I don't use it very much. Flat and Scandi grinds can be free sharpened with a diamond stone or rod pretty easily in the field. I usually try to establish a micro bevel on my Scandi's. Good article on blade grinds: (despite his dislike for secondary bevels on Scandi grinds) Knife Grinds Explained http://backyardbushman.com/?page_id=13 __________________ Neo-Luddite - Traigo Mi Cuarenta y Cinco - Inch Guy I'm just a peckerwood who lives in the hills with too many hours on Call of Duty. Last edited by NEWFNL1A1; December 22, 2012 at 11:18.

December 22, 2012, 11:12	#6
NEWFNL1A1 Out standing in his field Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 43401 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Tx Posts: 3,191	Those Scandi grinds are supposed to be easy because you basically lay it flat on the stone, then rock it up where the grind is flat on the stone surface and sharpen...a built in angle guide of sorts. I don't do that because I don't wanna scratch that whole grind surface. I raise mine a little higher and so a secondary bevel is established and it gives me sharp edges. Moras usually have pretty hard steel....is your knife Carbon or SS, RG? Most of my knives are touched up right after I use them so don't ever need much. I ruined a really nice Gerber Honesteel sharpening a bunch of cheap SS kitchen knives for a friend. I was young but I learned quickly that 1) don't let knives get really dull and 2) use a cheap carbide sharpener on cheap kitchen knives that haven't been sharpened in 30 years. Common sense now but as I said...I was young and could "sharpen an anvil"! __________________ Neo-Luddite - Traigo Mi Cuarenta y Cinco - Inch Guy I'm just a peckerwood who lives in the hills with too many hours on Call of Duty.

December 25, 2012, 07:34	#10
JasonB Registered FALaholic #: 7430 Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: 90° N 0° W Posts: 9,179	A good article and it has a link on re-establishing a botched Scandi grind: http://www.ragweedforge.com/scankniv.html __________________ On Romney's being anti-gun.."If Barney Frank ran for president, I wouldn't need him to tell me in a debate that he'd still be gay if elected."-Shlomo

January 06, 2013, 14:04	#14
MajHenryWest Senior Member Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 11906 Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 656	Talk with Mike Lummio at bushcraftnw.com Good designs, made in USA, good QC and great value, __________________ ****************************** "Steel is Strong because it Knows the Hammer and White Heat." - Johnny Cash, These Things Shall Pass

December 22, 2012, 07:59	#2
RG Coburn Registered FALaholic #: 27406 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 10,849	Looks like a nice blade,but I like a bit less angle on the edge.Not sure why they are ground that way.

December 22, 2012, 10:21	#5
RG Coburn Registered FALaholic #: 27406 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 10,849	Okay,most of mine fall into the full flat or hollow ground catagories. I do have one Mora,but it seems like its a bitch to sharpen.

December 24, 2012, 11:43	#8
RG Coburn Registered FALaholic #: 27406 Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 10,849	I had a nice Kershaw drop point that I found behind the seat of an old truck I bought. Thing was sweet,held a decent edge,felt great. I was climing out of my treestand while bowhunting,and it bounced out of the sheath and landed on freakin' leaves,and the blade snapped in two...I couldn't believe it.I scratched around where it hit,thinking I'd find a railroad track or grapefruit sized diamond or something..nope..leaves and dirt..

December 25, 2012, 13:37	#13
0302 Registered FALaholic #: 348 Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: New Mexico Posts: 3,667	I have found the cutco clip point knife to be most excellent, simple, affordable, easy to sharpen, doesn't slip wet or bloody. http://www.cutco.com/products/produc...up=5719&ref=cs

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