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Old September 30, 2000, 23:25   #1
dixieman
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How do I install a bipod?

I just received a Centurion 58 from Wholesale Guns and it came with a bipod. The problem is I don't know how to install it. The bipod came with 2 legs, 2 bolts, 2 washers, 2 brackets, and 2 little rods? How do I put it together. Directions and pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old October 02, 2000, 02:20   #2
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Little rods on top of springs inside the legs. Then just do your best to squeeze the brackets together and get the screws started. Best of luck. You'll figure it out. There is no easy way for me to tell you in this post.

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Old October 02, 2000, 02:57   #3
Dean P
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Right! what he is not telling you might get you a medal of some sort for accomplishment. Wish you luck.
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Old October 02, 2000, 03:03   #4
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Okay, I'll do my best to tell you. First there are two brackets that sandwich the barrel and are the base of your bi-pod. The front is flat the rear is rounded. Put both of these brackets on your barrel at the raised ring in fron of your hand guard and in back of your sling swivel. Take one of the large screws and screw it in to the two pieces to hold them in place while you put the bipod leg on the other side. Take the bipod leg that goes on the other side of the screw you just put in and insert one of the little rods with a roller on top into the hollow end. Turn it so that the taller squared end of the rod is on the inside of the leg opposite of the screw hole. take the bi-pod leg and line it up on the open hole on the two brackets that are clamped together on your barrel, push it into place to line up all the holes and with your third hand screw in the screw that holds it in place. Use a screwdriver to tighten it. Remove the screw on the other side that is secureing the two brackets together and repeat the operation with the other bipod. Both legs should fold up properly into the handguard. If not then you have the bipod legs reversed. Remove them and reinstall. Once you have them in place take the two castle nuts and screw them on to the ends of the screws that secure the bipod legs. Take a steel drift or narrow screwdriver and a hammer to tap the castle nuts tight onto the screws. use a prick punch to punch the edge of the screw at the castle nut to keep it from vibrating off while shooting. If this is not clear e-mail me and try to help some more.

Good luck
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Old October 02, 2000, 03:04   #5
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A second pare of hands and maybe vice grips would go a long way in getting it put on also. Sorry I cant help more with a better explaination.

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Old October 02, 2000, 03:08   #6
orca
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the simplest way is as follows:

1. Install the rotation limiting key and the upper and lower braket with one screw.
2. install the spring, plunger in the opposite bipod leg and install the leg by pushing down (with your Faly lying on her back) while stating the screw.
3. Remove the first screw and repeat step (2) with the other leg.
4. Install castle nuts and be happy! LOL, orca
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Old October 02, 2000, 03:24   #7
Dean P
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O.K here is something that any dummie can under stand.
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Old October 02, 2000, 03:31   #8
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Excellent orca couldn't have said it better myself. One thing the legs are left and right make sure you don't reverse otherwise you may have to do this twice. Please no vice grips (make ugly marks). Screws can be tricky and use a screw driver that fits the slot other wise you will bugger screw head. One other note CAI usually installs the sling swivel up against the sight/gas block and will have to be moved foreward.
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Old October 02, 2000, 22:42   #9
dixieman
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Thanks everyone for your replies. I figured it out right after I posted this topic. It was so easy that I feel like a dummy for wasting your time.

Thanks again though.
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Old July 21, 2001, 15:59   #10
W.E.G.
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(from deleted post in gunsmithing forum)
Fred
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To make a nut driver, I used a left over 1/4" socket driver holder for 1/4" hex tool bits. This provided a hardened donor piece of steel that had about the right ID and OD. A short while later I had ground all but 4-square pins from the hex end with a Dremil. To allow for the barrel interference I ground a half round grove into the body of the steel shaft. Now the nut driver engaged all 4 nut gooves and still cleared the barrel. A blade screwdriver bit from an impact screwdriver was hollow ground to engage the screw head. A cheap solution to an otherwise large screw head.

To keep all aligned coaxially I chucked the screwdriver bit into the lathe chuck and held the castle nut driver, with a 1/4" drive extension shaft into the tail stock chuck. Place the barrel assy between the two tool pieces and somewhat lock down the tailstock. Now with the large area of the lathe chuck for mechanical advantage, the screw comes out easilly. To get things moving I first broke free the screw from the bipod leg then went after the nut. No damage to either the screw or the nut. No heat was required to loosen the glue, thus no discoloration was imparted to the bipod components. So far I have performed this on three barrels with consistantly damage free results. This solution was chosen over a modified wrench, per Gunplumber, as I felt that it would be difficult to keep everything under control when tackling the attachment from both sides at the same time. Given the ease at which the parts all came apart I feel it is a better solution. The only negative is the need for a lathe to secure the tool bits.
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Old November 13, 2012, 19:08   #11
TheRussian
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I just installed bipods on my FAL.
Trick I found is to have someone help hold your FAL in place, put a sock in your hand to push the bottom of the bipod leg up, and a needlenose vice grips holding that side together tightly.
After I figured out that, took only minutes.
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Old November 13, 2012, 22:33   #12
J. Armstrong
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BTW, dixieman, if I have interfered with you obtaining more info, just let me know and I'll delete all my posts. Pretty much figured the subject was covered for you, but thought I'd check to be sure.

As you have no doubt noted, I ( and many others here) don't prefer the bipod - in fact, dang few FAL end users ever did. If you like it, or just prefer the look, that is fine, of course. If you have not tried one before, you will find that they change the POI when in use, they are heavy, they mar the HGs, and when extended they are noist and snag on things.

Just wanted to clarify my "whining"
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Old November 14, 2012, 19:54   #13
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Russian and J.Armstrong,

I moved your pissing contest to DB.
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Old November 15, 2012, 11:49   #14
TheRussian
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A pic is worth 1000 words, I hope this helps someone
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Old November 15, 2012, 19:44   #15
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I've used Orca's method for years. The nice thing about it is you don't need any tools at all to get the legs in place, with the exception of a screwdriver.

The Steyr combo tool is really handy both for the screws as well as for the castle nuts in assembly/disassembly (as long as you are not the first one fighting the castle nuts and hardened cosmoline in 50 years).

I've never used the Stg bipods for shooting but keep them on the rifles because they are OEM parts.
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Old November 15, 2012, 21:44   #16
TheRussian
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His post was a great help and got me started nicely.
My ole worn out vise grips didnt even mar them
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Old February 27, 2013, 23:43   #17
hung
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picatinny rail?

Has anyone tried attaching a picatinny rail to the underside of the handguard and use that as a platform to attach a bipod? I know that would not be OEM but wouldn't that be easier and avoid the issue of attaching the bipod directly to the barrel? It's also easier to attach/detach a picatinny bipod so you won't have to have it on until you want it.
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Old February 28, 2013, 17:04   #18
hung
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Just to answer my own question and in case anyone was also wondering, the picatinny rail to the bottom of the handguard doesn't work too well. When you tighten the screws on the picatinny rail, it causes the handguard to open up on the top.
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Old March 30, 2013, 09:37   #19
TheRussian
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Actually Hung, I have that picatinny rail setup on mine and it works perfectly.
If it is making them spread at the top you must have installed them incorrectly
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