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Old April 23, 2012, 13:12   #1
J MOSBY
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Knife Sharpners

Need two kinds:
(1) A small pocket or backpack for quick sharp without ruining the blade.

(2) A base camp sharpner that will put on a good clean edge at the correct angle.

What is the correct angle, or does it vary with knife type?

I have that little Smith with replaceable blades (Where can you find them?) it will sharpen a dull blade but does not seem to put a very precision edge on it.
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Old April 23, 2012, 13:46   #2
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the pull through carbide and ceramic notch "sharpeners" are terrible, and tear up edges. They should never be used by anyone.

Sharpmaker model 204 is a good sharpening solution for touching up. The hones are quite fine. They do offer diamond stones for reprofiling, but you can just wrap sandpaper around the rods and achieve the same end. The stones are triangular so they can sharpen serrations.

I have a ton of sharpening stuff, and the sharpmaker still gets used the most for touching up my edges.
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Old April 23, 2012, 14:03   #3
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Angles vary on all knives, so when you sharpen it is a good idea to mark the very edge with a sharpie so you can tell where you are removing metal. After sharpening, a knife should effortlessly shave hairs off your arm. If it doesn't, you did not sharpen the actual edge, instead just taking small amounts off the shoulder. Using a coarser grit, you can knock that shoulder down some to keep your preferred angle. Keeping the factory edge profile is not always a good idea, since some come with overly obtuse angles. There is no magical angle for knives. Edge profile depends on steel and intended usage. My EDC has a thin convex edge. As far as a pocket sharpening stone, I have never carried one. Good knives stay sharp for a long time.
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Old April 23, 2012, 15:25   #4
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I usually use a pocket diamond steel like a Gerber or Smiths. Angle is from experience and type of knife. I have a had a ton of sharpeners in my life but these work best for me the last 25 years or so. On really screwed up knives bought used, I will as a last resort use the above mentioned pull through carbide thing just to try and fix the bevel. Esp. on cheap stainless steels.



I have these too....the coarse grade works great on axes.

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Old April 23, 2012, 16:33   #5
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http://lansky.com/index.php/products...sional-system/
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Old April 23, 2012, 17:52   #6
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The correct angle is 22 1/2 degrees.
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Old April 23, 2012, 19:48   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sperzuki View Post
The correct angle is 22 1/2 degrees.
There is no "correct" angle. 22 degrees inclusive is too thin for some blades, and 22 degrees per side is too obtuse for any knife.
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Old April 24, 2012, 07:04   #8
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The correct angle is one that is consistent. Many commercial knives have a sort of chisel edge type sharpening and it is important to maintain whatever angle was used to begin with. I use various stones, from a course to fine with plenty of light oil - the tri stone kits are pretty good. If you want real sharp, try a leather strop with rouge imbedded in it for your final sharpening step. I would never use one of those pull through type sharpeners on any of my knives.
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Old April 24, 2012, 07:33   #9
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Another vote for the DMT double- sided folder. Been toting one around for 10 or 15 years.
Best 'round the shop is a series of decreasing grit 'wet'n'dry paper , lube and a sheet of glass. Takes consistency, good light and a steady hand.
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Old April 24, 2012, 08:38   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazz View Post
I would never use one of those pull through type sharpeners on any of my knives.
Me either, not on good knives...just on junk stainless stuff.....I used to have my wife's friends show up at the gun shop with their cheap chinese kitchen knives to sharpen...after ruining a good Gerber steel on those jobs, I started using those carbide sharpeners on them. Never had the patience to use stones....I do have a fine grade DMT or Smiths diamond bench stone for quick touch ups.

I watched my Dad use stones/oil and a leather belt for years. Good memories.
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Old April 24, 2012, 23:56   #11
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Ok, I'll make it short and simple, for the very best edge with any angle you desire, look at Wicked edge.com ,,,, then, there is the paper wheel and compound crowd, they work fast and put an excellent edge on with a usual convex polish and for less than 100$, but they run on a buffer or grinder.

There is no getting around stropping on Horse leather to get the wire edge polished off properly, horsehide is used because it is usually chrome tanned and the horse leather has certain other minerals that promote proper stropping, elephant strops in the barber shops of long ago are even better, but try to find one.
I made my own bow strops that use chromium oxide to polish and abrade the wire edge off quite fast and they are cheep and easily made.
Looking at the wicked edge model of sharpening, I made the sharpener to incorporate the four different grit diamond blocks which are not DMT quality but are inexpensive 20$ on Ebay, DMT diamond bases are Mono-christaline and sharpen very fast, that is the difference. I use two different sets of rods, one straight and the other in an convex curve to put the accurate convex edge on even swords,,, Quick, heck, I should make and sell the darn things.
Hope I haven't confused ya all.
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