Easy way to remove hinge pin?

redbaron · May 12, 2010, 14:32

I'm trying to swap the components from my standard lower to a stripped para lower I just got and I'm having trouble getting the hinge pin out. Is there a trick to this or something?

nwobhm · May 12, 2010, 14:40

Screwdriver

redbaron · May 12, 2010, 14:47

Nevermind. I feel stupid now.

Are the rest of the pins for the trigger and safety switch, etc. supposed to be so hard to drive out?

nwobhm · May 12, 2010, 15:05

Quote:

Originally posted by redbaron
Nevermind. I feel stupid now. Are the rest of the pins for the trigger and safety switch, etc. supposed to be so hard to drive out?

You need to remove the locking plate to take HTS pins out. The selector comes out after the hammer return spring, rod and tube.

NOTHING requires a hammer.

Selector comes out at 12 o' clock position.

gunnut1 · May 12, 2010, 15:06

Quit beating on your trigger and hammer. These are held in by a clip on the inside of the receiver. Pounding on them will not get them out. Remove the hammer spring and strut. Raise the safety selector up to the 90 degree position and remove it by pushing on the right side of the pin barrel on the right sides on the receiver. When you remove the selector, you will notice the retainer on the inside right side of the lower. move the retainer 90 degrees up and over and it will come out. The hammer and trigger will then come out.Be careful when you remove the trigger. It is under tension because of the sear spring and trigger return spring. To remove the trigger return sping you will have to remove the pistol grip. The trigger return spring is held on a bracket under the pistol grip.

Don't get the trigger return sping and sear spring mixed up. Leave them on the detents.

HTH!

nwobhm · May 12, 2010, 15:07

Use this schematic before you ruin your lower:

http://www.dsarms.com/pdf/FAL-SA58-SquematicPDF.pdf

redbaron · May 13, 2010, 07:08

Sorry about that, guys. Reading back over my posts I realize it did sound like I was trying to put this thing together with a jackhammer and a crowbar. I managed to get most of the parts swapped over without even marking up the finish

. I've got a few more things I'd like to get advice on that seem to be holding up the process

1) Managed to swap out all the parts from my standard lower to the para lower, but the hinge latch is giving me some problems. It doesn't seem to want to latch when I try to snap the upper and lower together, almost as if the hook on the upper doesn't come down far enough for the pin on the lower to slip over and lock (I'm using very technical terms here, obviously ). Plus the latch itself is harder to move back and forth on the new lower than it was on the old one. I've considered filing off a little from the hook on the upper until I can get the two to lock together....good idea? bad idea? Could the stiffness of the latch moving somehow be contributing to this?

2)Tried sliding the new bolt carrier and dustcover onto the upper and both are binding something fierce. To the point where I have to hit the bolt carrier with the handle of a screwdriver a few times to get it to go all the way down the receiver. Could this be because the parts are so new and just need breaking in, or is this something else? I mean, I really have to whack the bolt carrier a bit to get it all the way down. I was considering putting some JB bore paste on a buffing wheel for my dremel and polishing the grooves on the receiver and the rails on the carrier, but again, I wanted to make sure it might not be something else before I start applying power tools. The carrier seems to be binding up most towards the rear. It'll slide forward pretty nicely until the back of the carrier slides into the grooves, and that's when I need to start hammering

3)Managed to get the bolt into the new carrier and now it seems like there is no way to get it out. The bolt slipped out easily in the old carrier, but the new one seems different. Just eyeballing the two side-by-side it looked like the back of the para carrier is thicker and the hole that the pin on the bolt fits in seems a little smaller. I didn't use calipers so I don't know for sure. I mean, the bolt is in there, and it does seem to ride freely back and forth, so should I be overly concerned about this or just leave it?

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help

richbug · May 13, 2010, 09:32

Quote:

Originally posted by redbaron

1) Managed to swap out all the parts from my standard lower to the para lower, but the hinge latch is giving me some problems. It doesn't seem to want to latch when I try to snap the upper and lower together, almost as if the hook on the upper doesn't come down far enough for the pin on the lower to slip over and lock (I'm using very technical terms here, obviously ). Plus the latch itself is harder to move back and forth on the new lower than it was on the old one. I've considered filing off a little from the hook on the upper until I can get the two to lock together....good idea? bad idea? Could the stiffness of the latch moving somehow be contributing to this?

Rule #1. Always modify the cheapest part.

Rule #2 The receiver is never the cheapest part.

If you take a file to that receiver I am going to send my 4 year old after you with a rubber mallet.

Take something and smooth out the bore where the locking plunger rides. If that doesn't help, modify the locking plunger.

redbaron · May 13, 2010, 09:58

richbug: Thanks for the quick reply. I hope I never have to meet your 4 year old in a dark alley

I'll try polishing the plunger channel. Hopefully that will solve the problem for that particular part.

Somebody on another thread told me I might be mixing metric and inch parts as a reason why the bolt carrier wasn't fitting nicely. I was under the impression that bolt carriers should be interchangeable.

richbug · May 13, 2010, 10:49

Quote:

Originally posted by redbaron

Somebody on another thread told me I might be mixing metric and inch parts as a reason why the bolt carrier wasn't fitting nicely. I was under the impression that bolt carriers should be interchangeable.

They are interchangeable.

**msnyder** · May 14, 2010, 09:24

The para dust cover often requires some fitting to allow the upper to lock to the lower. Take the cover off and see if it closes before filing on the frame locking body.

May 12, 2010, 15:06	#5
gunnut1 Moderator Gold Contributor FALaholic #: 1877 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: The great Republic of Texas USA!!!!! Posts: 10,427	Quit beating on your trigger and hammer. These are held in by a clip on the inside of the receiver. Pounding on them will not get them out. Remove the hammer spring and strut. Raise the safety selector up to the 90 degree position and remove it by pushing on the right side of the pin barrel on the right sides on the receiver. When you remove the selector, you will notice the retainer on the inside right side of the lower. move the retainer 90 degrees up and over and it will come out. The hammer and trigger will then come out.Be careful when you remove the trigger. It is under tension because of the sear spring and trigger return spring. To remove the trigger return sping you will have to remove the pistol grip. The trigger return spring is held on a bracket under the pistol grip. Don't get the trigger return sping and sear spring mixed up. Leave them on the detents. HTH! __________________ Texas, it's a state of mind!!!! The human race is not the pinnacle of evolution. We are but one evolutionary out come.

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May 12, 2010, 14:32	#1
redbaron Registered FALaholic #: 35805 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 35	Easy way to remove hinge pin? I'm trying to swap the components from my standard lower to a stripped para lower I just got and I'm having trouble getting the hinge pin out. Is there a trick to this or something?

May 12, 2010, 14:40	#2
nwobhm ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ FALaholic #: 9580 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 5,920	Screwdriver

May 12, 2010, 14:47	#3
redbaron Registered FALaholic #: 35805 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 35	Nevermind. I feel stupid now. Are the rest of the pins for the trigger and safety switch, etc. supposed to be so hard to drive out?

May 12, 2010, 15:07	#6
nwobhm ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ FALaholic #: 9580 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 5,920	Use this schematic before you ruin your lower: http://www.dsarms.com/pdf/FAL-SA58-SquematicPDF.pdf

May 13, 2010, 07:08	#7
redbaron Registered FALaholic #: 35805 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 35	Sorry about that, guys. Reading back over my posts I realize it did sound like I was trying to put this thing together with a jackhammer and a crowbar. I managed to get most of the parts swapped over without even marking up the finish . I've got a few more things I'd like to get advice on that seem to be holding up the process 1) Managed to swap out all the parts from my standard lower to the para lower, but the hinge latch is giving me some problems. It doesn't seem to want to latch when I try to snap the upper and lower together, almost as if the hook on the upper doesn't come down far enough for the pin on the lower to slip over and lock (I'm using very technical terms here, obviously ). Plus the latch itself is harder to move back and forth on the new lower than it was on the old one. I've considered filing off a little from the hook on the upper until I can get the two to lock together....good idea? bad idea? Could the stiffness of the latch moving somehow be contributing to this? 2)Tried sliding the new bolt carrier and dustcover onto the upper and both are binding something fierce. To the point where I have to hit the bolt carrier with the handle of a screwdriver a few times to get it to go all the way down the receiver. Could this be because the parts are so new and just need breaking in, or is this something else? I mean, I really have to whack the bolt carrier a bit to get it all the way down. I was considering putting some JB bore paste on a buffing wheel for my dremel and polishing the grooves on the receiver and the rails on the carrier, but again, I wanted to make sure it might not be something else before I start applying power tools. The carrier seems to be binding up most towards the rear. It'll slide forward pretty nicely until the back of the carrier slides into the grooves, and that's when I need to start hammering 3)Managed to get the bolt into the new carrier and now it seems like there is no way to get it out. The bolt slipped out easily in the old carrier, but the new one seems different. Just eyeballing the two side-by-side it looked like the back of the para carrier is thicker and the hole that the pin on the bolt fits in seems a little smaller. I didn't use calipers so I don't know for sure. I mean, the bolt is in there, and it does seem to ride freely back and forth, so should I be overly concerned about this or just leave it? Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help

May 13, 2010, 09:58	#9
redbaron Registered FALaholic #: 35805 Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 35	richbug: Thanks for the quick reply. I hope I never have to meet your 4 year old in a dark alley I'll try polishing the plunger channel. Hopefully that will solve the problem for that particular part. Somebody on another thread told me I might be mixing metric and inch parts as a reason why the bolt carrier wasn't fitting nicely. I was under the impression that bolt carriers should be interchangeable.

May 14, 2010, 09:24	#11
msnyder Curio & Relic Bronze Contributor FALaholic #: 1085 Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: New Mexico Posts: 2,814	The para dust cover often requires some fitting to allow the upper to lock to the lower. Take the cover off and see if it closes before filing on the frame locking body.