Trigger problem

[johns]

Hi all - I've been away from the forum for quite a while . I like the new look.
I hate to admit this, but today was the first time I've had a chance to try out this gun with the parts I exchanged last November.
I have a SAR 4800 that I put the required U.S. made parts into in order to remove the Butthole stock. I've had several problems with the trigger, hammmer, sear and plunger. I bought my parts from DSA last year and have exchanged some, but am still having a problem.
I have to manually push the trigger back out a hair (hear a click) after each shot. I have researched this in the forum, but have not found a fix. I have seen that others seem to have had this same problem, but can't find how they solved it.
I definately do not have the springs mixed up. I have have read that there could be a burr causing the problem. Where exactly do I need to polish the hammer and/or sear. The gun dry fires with no problem. TIA

[johns]

anyone?

[kotengu]

I ran into the same problem once and it wouldn't go away no matter how much we polished face angles, double-checked/swapped springs, etc. - Turned out the trigger was binding in the lower (the square hole where it protrudes through the bottom of the lower). A few swipes with a file and it was fine.

Things to check:

1. Pins rotate freely, both in the lower receiver as well as the fire control parts. Polish them if they don't, or sometimes the US parts need some "adjusting" of the holes - I use a 400 grit sanpaper wrapped around a dowel of the right size. While you're at it - polish the inner faces of the holes in the lower as well. The less friction you have the better trigger pull.

2. Check for fit of the trigger in the lower receiver (trigger mechanism housing) and make sure it moves freely without binding on the sides. Make sure to check this both with the trigger alone and with it assembled - sometimes when you get all the parts put in something can push the trigger into the side of the lower cut-out.

3. Double check your springs and swap some out if you have more available. A weak (or cut) trigger return spring would do exactly as you have described.

4. You can polish the contact points of the US fire control parts, but go slowly and be sure not to change the angle of the faces. Polishing the front of the sear and where it contacts the hammer will reduce your "creep" and polishing the rear of the sear and where it contacts the trigger will help with a smoother resetting (something overlooked in a lot of trigger jobs, IMHO).

Good luck!

Matt

[johns]

Thanks Matt - I appreciate your help.
John

[kotengu]

No problemo - let us know how it goes!