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Old December 14, 2017, 20:41   #24
hueyville
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Foothills of the Blueridge Mountains
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Nice looking group of rifles GP. That an AAC 51T Ratchet Mount suppressor adapter on front?

When shop barrel look at who vendor uses for their blanks as few do all the processes. Have had really good luck out of Lothar Walther blanks spun by whoever. Have one of the original first run Ruger 10/22T with hammer forged barrel. Believe they are on like third generation of the their hammer forged heavy barrels. Mine was early enough for metal trigger housing and had the original offered laminated stock. Was one of the first out the door.

Ran it a few months, tore it apart and had barrel recrowned. Tore into trigger group and added a few Power Custom titanium parts, squared a few things on my Power Custom jig and used a Wolffe spring kit. Epoxies a threaded brass fitting for attaching action to stock, did some bedding work, especially in barrel pad area, reassembled using torque values a smith in warranty department of Ruger gave me, sat a 4.5-14 Burris scope and went from cloverleafs at 25 yard to single hole five shot groups and under MOA at 100 with good ammo and no wind.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...=151960&page=6

Swapped a factory barrel for client at LGS and he abandoned his OEM barrel from a Walmart 10/22. Gave to our smith/machinist and had him cut, thread crown and pin suppressor adapter short as possible to give legal 16" with pinned adapter. Put on a used rifle bought just because had metal trigger housing, did my basic trigger job and bedding to use for squirrel killing only and shoots ragged one hole groups at 25 yards with 60 grain Aguilla Sniper Subsonic. Has a Leupold 3-9x and all squirrel die first shot.

Just swapping barrel is part of the battle. I saw above article or similar years ago and most of my Ruger 10/22's have plumbing parts in them ever since. It's where I start while waiting on barrel or barrel work. Clean up trigger, bed properly, torque bolts/screws correctly and a 10/22 will shoot well even with base line or OEM barrel if has a good chamber and crown. YMMV

Have a myriad of aftermarket barrels and found normally get what you pay for in a given price range from reputible vendors. One of my best shooting factory barrels cut to 14", crowned and TIG welded a thin walled pipe to make legal length. With 22 rimfire I do best with shortest barrel can get to 14" range or heavy barrel in 22" range. Short or long works for me but mid lengths not as well. Read a real scientific article years ago about 14.5" being optimum length for velocity/accuracy without using long match barrel in 22 rimfire.
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