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-   -   Please help ID this headstamp DEN 43 (http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42383)

Odd Gibbs Shooter June 23, 2002 23:22

Please help ID this headstamp DEN 43
 
I ran across this new old brass my father has had laying around for years. It is new 30-06 brass with the headstamp of DEN 43 !!

The bullets were pulled out years ago , so the original primers are still intact. I will be using this stuff for fire forming into 6.5-06 Ackley Imp. cases .

Any ideas?

Thanks,
OGS

Mr pogo June 24, 2002 03:22

Denver Ordnance Plant, 1943.

Forgot to add, corrosive also.

FatWoodDog June 24, 2002 03:59

Great info, Mr pogo -- and I thought I was the ONLY one up at this time of the night. :eek: :D

FatWoodDog

idsubgun June 24, 2002 08:05

Re: Please help ID this headstamp DEN 43
 
Quote:

Originally posted by Odd Gibbs Shooter
I ran across this new old brass my father has had laying around for years. It is new 30-06 brass with the headstamp of DEN 43 !!

The bullets were pulled out years ago , so the original primers are still intact. I will be using this stuff for fire forming into 6.5-06 Ackley Imp. cases .

Any ideas?

Thanks,
OGS

Food for thought, but if I were going through all the trouble to make wildcat brass, I would start with commercial brass (new Win. or Federal) as it will be MUCH more consistent in wall thickness. The military stuuf is thicker walled and you know the stuff made during the war was not probably the tightest of tolerances.
Maybe thicker walls are what you are after, but I would think that the new brass would possibly give you better accuracy. Remington brass is thicker than others, if thickness is your goal.

Whatever you do, keep us informed on how the thing shoots. I've been toying with making a 6mm or 6.5mm wildcat. My buddy at work is doing a 6mm/.284 wildcat for 1000 yd. shoots.

Odd Gibbs Shooter June 24, 2002 21:46

Thanks for the info !!!

idsubgun,
Well now yah got me cutting cases in half and micin it.
Found this old brass to be .0025 thicker throughout.

I have some .30 Gibbs that is military that my grandfather fire formed who knows when and it is still holding up so I will give it a try...


As for fire-forming , is it best to have the bullet touching the lands,or not?

In the Ackley book it says for calibers of .30 and over to have the bullet seated out just far enough to touch the lands? For under .30 cal. it says nothing !!


Input?

Thanks,
OGS

PS,
idsubgun how is that hitch cover holding up?\


BUFF June 25, 2002 00:47

The idea for seating the bullet against the lands for fire-forming is to push the base of the cartridge case up against the bolt face when you chamber and then fire the cartridge.

If the bullet doesn't touch, and the shoulder is set a bit too far back for the chamber, the firing pin will push the entire cartridge forward in the chamber until the shoulder of the case (or the rim, or the case mouth or the belt, depending on th cartridge's headspace method) hits the shoulder (or whatever), and then when the cartidge ignites, the forward part of the case is all the way forward but the rear isn't, and as pressures build, the rear of the case moves back until it contacts the bolt face. The stretch is usually just above the web (thick part of the brass, at the bottom of the powder chamber). This is usually the start of case head separation.

I don't know why you wouldn't do the same for cartridge under .30 caliber.

By the way, my hitch cover is holding up fine!

K. Funk June 25, 2002 19:51

I've got about 1000 rds of DEN 43 AP loose packed and about 200 rds DEN 42 AP in original boxes. Of the '43 I've shot, all went bang except for one with an obviously corroded primer. The stuff chrono'd pretty hot, about 2825 fps.

Just an FYI.

krf


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