View Full Version : Finishes: how to make Parkerizing green

December 09, 2002, 12:07
I just had an old gunsmith tell me how he matched newly parked parts to old green tinted park. He takes green artist oil paint and dilutes it in gun oil and lets that soak into the fresh park. I just remembered that I read where everybody was trying to age their fresh park in cosmo to get that effect.....he says that it takes 40-50 years that way.....he said that he was too old to wait that long, so he found another way.

Note--apply green gun oil to fresh park...if you try this on already oiled park then you will not get as good results!

Vanden Berg
December 09, 2002, 15:10
It is my understanding that if you put Havoline motor oil (new, not used) on freshly parkerized parts, that it will yield that same green tint.


December 09, 2002, 15:44
I've been told that cosmoline or wd-40 will turn fresh park green. I've never done it but somebody may have heard the same.

December 09, 2002, 21:27
Since I have used WD-40 on fresh park jobs to displace water...I know that will not do it. I have heard too many people try to put cosmo on it and alot of them waited months to get no change. I really doubt that havoline will work, it is not green enough and the oil will oxidize and turn dark anyway. So ,I fear that the green would not last long. This old dude says he has tried it all, and this is the only way he has got it to work. He only works on WWI and WWII guns!

Blood of Tyrants
December 09, 2002, 22:36
I conducted an experiment last summer trying to artificially age some freshly parkerized pieces of sandblasted steel. I put motor oil on one, ZEP preserverative on one, gold bearing grease on one, regular 3-in-one oil on one, and white lithium greaso on one. I left one as a control.

Then I put them all in the oven at 325 deg for two hours. The heat baked off all but the bearing grease and the heat had scorched it. Not one of them could be distinguished from the control after the scorched grease/oil was cleaned off.:(

Anybody else tried other methods.

December 10, 2002, 00:56
WD-40 has not yielded any greenish tint to any fresh park jobs on the few that I have tried. I did try some green hydralic oil, which didnt give a greenish tint but did make a very nice dark park job on one kit that I did recently.....the green artist paint (oil based I assume) sounds doable.
I thought about trying a blue oil also to see what results can be had, I know there is a Kerr-McGee motor oil that is bluish. I am also going to try a green motor oil to see how it compares to the green hydralic oil and see if there is anything noticeable but wont be doing any park'n at all till prolly Xmas time.

December 10, 2002, 09:38
Yes, use oil based green paint.....a little paint added to your favorite gun oil. You have to match your green tint to what you want the finished product to look like. add white to lighten it and add black to darken it.

December 12, 2002, 00:17
When I was in gunsmith school we worked out this method. Parkerize in Maganese Phosphate parkerizing solution. When done parkerizing take the parts out of the solution, DO NOT rinse them as soon as they are out so they are still very hot emerse them in EXON water displaceing oil. Leave in till parts cool off remove wipe down and they are green. Look just like old US parkerized guns. It worked every time for us. I've still got a rifle I parked in school back in '85 and it's still as green as when I did it.

December 12, 2002, 00:29
what is EXON water displacing oil and where do you get it from?

December 12, 2002, 01:20
I dont like mentioning another web site, because after being on the web for about 8 years this is about the best gun site I've ever found.. That being said over on the assault web in gunssmithing do it your self there is a some good info on parkerizing with some more info on green colors be posted under "kitchen sink parkerizing" might be worth the read on homemade park

and I to would like to know more on exon water disp product.. maybe this could be use to make a camo pattern grey and green

December 12, 2002, 06:35
Zinc-Nickel Phosphate parkering solution will turn green after a period of time. Could be years before it turns, but out of the tank it has a slight green tint after oiling. I use it along with Brownells Zinc and Manganese. .. I've never tried the paint method, does it wash out when solvent is used to clean? Dont know about the exxon oil either. The only duplication I've seen that is real green is cosmoline rubbed in, which washed off when the gun was cleaned.. Carefull what you pay for.:bigangel:

Blood of Tyrants
December 16, 2002, 10:30
L1-A1 responded to me in a private e-mail that as soon as he saw the name below, he recognized it as the stuff they used in gunsmithing school. I plan on getting some of Rustban 392 in the near future and posting the results of L1-A1's claim.

Rustban 392 http://www.imperialoil.com/pds/rustban392.htm

January 09, 2003, 23:11
Sounds like good stuff. Let us know where it can be found.

Dean P
January 13, 2003, 21:35
Esso Oil is a Canadian Subsidary of Exxon, US. That would be a machine shop oil. Talk to a machinist supply store. I hope you find it, it sounds interesting.
He's right about being too old to wait for it to turn green. Green park is eye catching & would look good on any firearm you put it on.

Rebel X
January 26, 2003, 21:24

As soon as someone tries this Rust-ban 392..

PLEASE let us know ASAP !


Come on, keep us informed..


January 29, 2003, 22:47
Called Imperial Oil in Canada today to get the low down on how to acquire Rustban 392 and they put me intouch with Mobil tech support here in the states. Turns out that Rustban 392 is only available in 55 gal drums at this time (at least in the states, maybe our Canadian friends can still get it in smaller quantities). The tech I spoke to (who seemed very sharp, really knew his product line) said that when this happens there's a good chance that the product is being phased out. I asked about a substitute from Mobil and his recommendation was Mobilarma 245. Its specs show it to be a close match to Rustban 392. Both are marketed as rust inhibiters that repel water and neutralize fingerprint acid. Usually used in machine shops to preserve in-process work. The downside is that the smallest quantity that I could find was a 5 gallon unit at a price of approx. $55. Would love to get my hands on about a pint of the stuff to see if it would work. Anyone out there work in a machine shop with access to this stuff? Hell, I've even thought of a trying a different rust inhibiter, LPS 3, just on a lark. It is readily available in small quantities. I've got a friend's Enfield No 4, MKI to zinc park and will probably get around to it in the next couple of weeks. Will try LPS 3 and a few others and see just how lucky I am.

February 01, 2003, 01:06
I've used LPS-3 for a long time on metals, but not parkerizing, and it gets gummy brown, did not stain the metal. It was formulated for long term storage rust inhibition. It may not give a green tint to parkerizing. Let us know. :?