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gunzilla
June 24, 2002, 10:52
I am dismantling my G1 parts set for a trip to the parkerizing tanks and have come to a few problems.
1) Is there a way to remove the spring pin from the gizmo that holds the gas plunger in or shuts off the gas port to launch grenades? It seems this pin is peened in place. I hate to grind it or drill it out, which would mean replacement or adding material and remachining.
2) I am having a similar problem with the aluminum cocking knob. I have removed the spring powered ball detent but the knob only rotates on what is left. Is this riveted or peened in place? I am going to make a new knob so destroying it during removal will not bother me. I don't want to damage the rest of cocking device however.
3) Does anybody have any tricks for removing the gas block? Will it slide off easily after I remove the pin? The gunsmith says everything has to be disassembled for the repark.
Also, does anybody have experience with shortening the barrels? I want to cut it back to 18" and wonder about having sufficient back pressure to cycle the gun. Is there enough adjustment in the gas nut to get the thing to run correctly?
Thanks for your help.

withergyld
June 24, 2002, 11:30
2 The knob is rivited on, and the rivit will need to be drilled out.
3 Never tried to remove the gas block, but did shorten a barrel to 18 in.
My gas piston was 0.429 dia. I do not know my gas tube diameter. The original gas port was 0.099 diameter. The gas tube was free and no binding of the bolt or bolt carrier.The rifle would function on 1 or 2 with surplus port, not leaving much room for adjustment. (probably would not run in Radway Green). I drilled out the gas port to 0.109 and it now runs on 4 - 5 with Port surplus.
How yours will run with an 18 in barrel depends on ammo, gas tube diameter, gas piston diameter, gas port size and friction in the moving parts.
You will probably need to drill out the gas port.

gunzilla
June 27, 2002, 13:46
Thanks Withergyld,
I drilled out the riveted cocking knob and made a new knob and a new pin/rivet. Not so difficult.
As for the gas plug spring loaded retainer, I found that there is a washer or more like a shaft spacer that is held in place by peening, rivetting, staking or what have you. I carefully cut this off with a worn (small diameter) separating disc and carefully added some material (by welding) to the now shortened pin. I cut a new washer/spacer and then was told by the gunsmith who is doing the parkerizing that I didn't need to take that apart. He said that I would only mess up the finish rivetting it back together so I put it back to gether in the white and now it is ready to go.
The barrel has also been shortened to just over 18". At first I wasn't going to cut threads on it but I have it back here now and will cut threads this afternoon. His parkerizing tanks weren't ready today as he had hoped. That's okay since I have more work to do as well.

W.E.G.
June 27, 2002, 14:23
It is not customary to disassemble gas plug prior to re-parking.

Degrease it and dunk it.

gunsmith_tony
June 27, 2002, 14:52
I agree. Degrease and park.

gunzilla
June 27, 2002, 17:25
I guess I take things a bit to literal sometimes. When I made the plan to do the parkerizing with the gunsmith, he told me EVERYTHING had to come apart. So that's what I did. When I brought the stuff over to him I find that he also agrees with you guys, that it's okay to leave the gas plug assembled.

My next questions...
I had originally planned to use an Israeli butt stock but have since found that it is considerably shorter than the G1. Also, the tang cut out appears to be longer which would mean either cutting the stock even shorter (setting the ferrule back) or welding on an extension to the tang and redrilling the screw hole to correspond with the Israeli wood. Seems like to much dicking around to me and then have a childs rifle to boot. I could live with the refinished G1 stock but the butt plate that came with it is pretty well beat up. Very curious that the rest of the rifle is so heavy duty but the butt plate appears to have been made out of old sardine cans. Are there new made butt plates available or can the stock be readily modified to accept something else? I like the looks of the aluminum L1A1 butt plate but don't have one to play with. Could I make one of those look okay with out to much whittlin'? What other butt plates would be readily adaptable?
Thanks again.

W.E.G.
June 27, 2002, 18:17
DSA has Izzy buttplates $10, excellent condition, perfect fit (on G1 stock), no trapdoor.

Gunthings.com has Canadian buttplates, $30, (new?) condition, perfect fit (on G1 stock), trapdoor included.