View Full Version : Faulty Trigger Return

June 22, 2002, 22:29
Finished my L1A1 kit build this week and took it to the
range today to sight it in. Everything worked well, gas
setting of 6 got the brass about 5 feet away and even
had a couple of 100 yd 3 shot cloverleafs. However, I
had to manually push the trigger forward after each shot.
My lower is a new Dealer Warehouse unit and the H,T,S
is an FSE set. The hammer has a lot of play on the hammer
pin, like the hole is too big. I think I remember that
some FSE parts had a problem, could this be one, the
hammer has an "I" stamped under the FSE logo. Is this
part bad or do I need a new hammer pin? I would
appreciate some help in getting this otherwise fine rifle
running correctly. Thanks for any help.

June 23, 2002, 00:40
Sounds like you have a metric lower.

June 23, 2002, 09:25
When you had the pistol grip off of the lower, was there a long threaded shaft that is attached to the lower that goes thru a hole in the pistol grip?

If so then you have a metric lower with inch fire control parts in it.
Get a set of FSE metric fire control parts or get an inch lower to go with what you already have.

June 23, 2002, 09:26
No, Gary, it's definently an inch lower. Any other ideas?

June 23, 2002, 19:38
Maybe I have metric fire control parts, they came with the
kit that I bought from a board member. Is there anyway to
tell the difference? Harold, are you out there?

June 23, 2002, 22:26
If you have the "I" (italicized "I with quotation marks) on your hammer, it is inch. The metric FSE hammer is marked: Mo2 (without quotation marks).
If you had a metric hammer pin in an inch hammer, you would have a lot of wobble. But you might likely be getting "doubles" when you fire, if that is the case. Pure speculation on my part, here. But it does sound like you have the correct hammer for an inch lower. Check out the pin for wear, or see if the lower might possibly be metric. I doubt that, though, as you said it is inch. If it has an inch pistol grip, it has got to be inch.

Without looking at the lower, pins, and fit of HTS, it is hard to say. It does sound like something that will be an inexpensive fix, though.

Again, just supposition on my part.

Please post the solution once you have it figured out. If it continues to be a conundrum, post more info here, as someone WILL nail down the solution eventually. Good luck, and keep us all posted!

June 24, 2002, 01:42
FWIW,I also bought FSE inch h,t,s and the hammer and sear work
fine,but trigger won't accept sear sleeve/slave pin!?!.As for having
to push trigger foward after every shot,the trigger I recieved had
large "dimple" on the backside like a metric trigger for metric type
trigger plunger,whereas my original L1A1 trigger has no "dimple"
on it for trigger plunger.This is probably why you have to push
trigger foward because of the lack of contact between trigger,and
the trigger plunger.Hope that helps.
I've emailed Harold Shinn at FSE about this,and am awaiting
a reply.

Harold Shinn
June 24, 2002, 11:51

Your trigger will not reset because of a burr or roughness at the rear of the sear and/or corresponding contact area on the trigger. This can be easily and quickly resolved. As for the excessive play on the hammer to hammer pin fit - did the other parts you were using come from a complete inch lower kit? I just wanted to make sure you were not using a metric hammer pin.

Please e-mail me at hshinn@mindspring.com for further details.

Look forward to hearing from you.

Best regards,


Harold Shinn
June 24, 2002, 11:57

I have e-mailed you this morning. The trigger that you describe cannot be an inch trigger. The inch trigger does not have a dimple or divot at the rear of the trigger for the trigger return spring plunger (the metric trigger has these). This could not have even occurred by accident on an inch trigger since this feature requires a completely separate machining operation which is never performed on inch triggers.

If this is the case, then the slave pin for the trigger/sear assembly would not fit because it is a metric trigger.

I can exchange your trigger for the correct type. Please indicate who the reseller was and contact me at hshinn@mindspring.com

Best regards,


June 25, 2002, 21:55
Harold, I've responded to your PM. Thanks for you interest.
I'll do as you suggested, make another trip to the range
and report my findings to you and here on the board.

July 01, 2002, 18:37
I've solved my problem! Apparently when I changed to a
better PG with it's tighter trigger rebound plunger opening
the paint on the plunger bound up in the hole when I pulled
the trigger far enough to trip the sear. A little sanding
with 400 grit and 0000 steel wool stopped that. I was able
to confirm that this afternoon with 4 strings of 5 shots rapid
Thanks to all for your suggestions but especially, thanks
to Harold Shinn of FSE for his private suggestions and
his unsolicited offer of a replacement HTS set without
knowing if he had a problem or not. This kind of support
is what makes this board and it's sponsors such a
pleasure to visit and do business with.