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Pyropuppy
June 22, 2002, 07:46
ok so I'm new to fal files and have been reading alot and I saw this product mentioned and wanted to know more so I went to brownells and checked it out see there tech corner.
this is the product discription.



ALUMA-HYDE™ II


Durable Epoxy Base Paint Withstands Bore Cleaners & Solvents
The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethane. Today's new family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it's great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Matte finishes are available in Parkerizing Gray (medium gray), Dark Gray Parkerizing (medium dark), Stainless Steel Gray (light), Earth Brown, O.D. Green for creating camo pattern stocks and the original favorite, Matte Black. To compliment the matte finishes, Semi-Gloss Black and Gloss Clear help expand the overall applications of this time- and money-saving product. We like the Matte Black color for refinishing those used AR-15 buttstocks and handguards you pick up when building a parts gun, knock-around "truck" guns and, of course, anodized parts.
Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Here's the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90° F; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but don't wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until it's fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90° F. works fine) past the part. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.
SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

here is a link to there on line catolog.
http://www.brownells.com/Product/Index.asp?KeyWord=083002512

here is a link to a guy's FAL build up page with pics of the finished product also check out his barrel vice and recever wrench.
http://home.columbus.rr.com/bgroves/

What is your opinion of this stuff?
:)

Pyropuppy
June 22, 2002, 08:16
well should have done a search first.
http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40987


http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39110&highlight=alumahyde

sear
June 22, 2002, 15:38
i have`nt got the patience to work with that stuff.

takes like a month to properly harden/pass the fingernail test

buckaroo
June 22, 2002, 19:52
Preparation and patience are everything when it comes to Alumahyde II. It does come out pretty well if you go slow. Shake the can a long time and practice on something inessential first. My first attempt was a set of old G1 handguards. I put on way too many coats, way too fast. They came out looking terrible. After removing all the paint from the first go round, the second time around I held the can farther away and kept it moving at all times and only applied one coat. They came out great. I hung them up to dry and left them alone for several days.

I also did a set of AR-15 handguards (flat black) and a slide from a PA-63 (semi gloss black). Both look great with a couple very minor flaws (a tiny run on the slide and a fingernail divot on the handguards). No chipping or flaking to report. The stuff hardens up very well. I think your results depend on how you prepare the surfaces for the paint.

If I was really anal I could go back and fix the little run on the slide, but it's barely noticeable. I have too many other projects right now.

DrDremel
June 23, 2002, 12:20
I just got through using some 20 minutes ago. It works great on aluminum. For steel I would use the Baking laquer. I have some in the oven right now. It holds up well. For the alumahyde, let it cure for 2 WEEKS as the can says. If used before that, it scrapes off rather easily. Once fully cured it is very durable. Alumahyde also works good on FAL furniture. Prep is everything. I have a Ballester Molina pistol with the Moly coat finish that has held up to 400 rounds without any chipping.