View Full Version : Any WECSOG chop, crown, and thread info?
June 20, 2002, 01:09
I know you can buy a crowning bit from Brownell's. If I remember it looks like an angled drill bit. As well as getting a thread die.
Now for the hard part- the chopping. Has anyone ever tried a pipe cutter? The type that spins around the pipe as you tighten until the pipe is cut through? I know this sounds scary to some but has anyone actually tried it?
See I truly don't believe every gunsmith out there has a lathe for cutting barrels. I believe some practice WECSOG secretely and no one is the wiser. SO I figure if they did rig it- what about just an old fashioned pipe cutter. Followed buy some hits with a wire brush wheel in the old drill. Then some polishing compound and buffing wheel. After checking with the mics- crown the thing with the 11 degree crowning bit.
Just seeing if anyone has done it or will I in the name of curiosity be the first on this WECSOG detail.
True WECSOG craftsmen would never believed the world to be flat. :p
June 20, 2002, 01:37
I shortened the barrel on a Turk 38 using a pipe cutter. It worked okay but I did end up with a lip on the inner surface of the barrel. No big deal but next time I think that I'll use the pipe cutter to make the cut part way and then finish it with a hack saw.
June 20, 2002, 08:10
This is my wecsog barrel adventure
WECSOG barrel adventure (http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16209)
no blood involved either :frown:
Classic Gary Jeter WECSOG adventure (http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18850)
Have fun :D
June 20, 2002, 08:55
I have a 11 degree crowning tool I could let you borrow. It's been used twice ......so not alot of wear on it.
Takes about 10 minutes to do the crowning
June 20, 2002, 09:17
I cut mine with a hacksaw off 3" to remove bbl bulge. Filed flat
checking with a good machinist square. Finished the inner with
a carbide 3/8" ball die grinder tool run by hand only.
touched up outside edge with a file.
I used a hacksaw and a mitre box to keep my cut square. I did the crown by using a grinder bit for a dremel, dont remember the proper term for it, but it was cone shaped.
June 20, 2002, 11:38
I used a hacksaw to cut the barrel. Then applied a piece of tape around the barrel nice and straight. Then trued up the cut using a belt sander.
Cut the crown using a Wilson cartridge case camphering tool, and then polished the crown using valve grinding compound and the shoulder of a .223 empty chucked into an electric drill.
Beveled the outside edge of the barrel by turning the edge against a piece of 100-grit sandpaper.
Works just great! And I didn't have to buy a thing!
June 20, 2002, 23:40
How about this idea.......I saw a post before about someone using a case trimmer bit to crown the barrel. I found this site and there is a cutter with a wooden ball handle down at the bottom of the page or you can adapt it to your drill. Add a 308 caselength guide to align the cutter and it seems to me you have a $15 crowning tool..... http://www.leeprecision.com/catalog/casecon.html
June 21, 2002, 06:00
My God- you guys have true balls. Cutting and hacking off the barrel without consulting some greedy gunsmith. I would be interested in getting that crowning bit for sure now- hearing this craziness. Hell if I get started I will be chopping and crowning all my barrels to exactly 16 or 18 inches! Thanks guys.
7.62- when nothing else will do.
June 21, 2002, 07:38
I use a brass acorn nut on a headless bolt and valve grinding compound. Chuck in a drill and do a figure eight, wobbling motion.
June 21, 2002, 10:53
Itried my lee case trimmer, but .308 wont fit in the barrel due to the rifling. If a smaller case lenght guage were used it might work. The chamfering tool is hand use only, it doesn't fit on the case trimmer. You could square up the face with the case trimmer but not bevel the crown.
June 21, 2002, 13:19
I am thinking .30 would work, after I bouht the 308 without thinking about that, but it's only 5 bucks. Maybe I'll just put the caselength guage in my drill and spin it in some sandpaper until it fits.....or order the .30. What about putting the cutting blade without the ball handle into your drill chuck and using it that way?
June 21, 2002, 19:29
You advise against using power tools for crowning, because........?
I use a variable speed drill and go slow. I've never had a problem.
June 22, 2002, 10:05
My WECSOG cut/crown experience is documented HERE (http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=342702#post342702)
400-600 grit orbital sander
June 23, 2002, 01:07
A reasonable point! That's why I like the brass acorn nut. It offers some protection against gorrilla arm!
June 23, 2002, 09:10
After cutting my Entreprise L1A1 to 18.25", I had to raise the front sight a lot to get it on target. It is almost level with the top of the sight protecting ears. This means that the Entreprise L1 sight is 1/4" higher than the front sight on my unmodified Century L1A1 (21" + muzzle thingey). No problem shooting though, and my hand crowning worked too.
June 23, 2002, 09:58
Originally posted by gary.jeter
I wouldn't use power tools because so little metal needs to be removed, a little too much gusto with the power tool, and you will be trying to figure out how to put some of the metal back.
Hand power is all it takes. But, if you are all set up for it, and you REALLY are sure of your (power) hand, have at it.:)
You must be refering to the crowning process I reckon. I did use the dremel but just used a light touch and went slow. Had to apply stone about 4-5 times till I got the depth I was looking for. Light pressure and all should be well, those polishing stones don't cut barrel steel all that fast.
June 25, 2002, 00:12
I just finished the facing part of the crowning process. I used that Lee caselength cutter (w/ ball handle) and the caselength guide which cost me $10+2 in shipping. The 308 guide would not fit so I went to McBride's to get a .300 but they didn't have one. The guy working behind the counter looked at me like I was crazy when I told him what I was doing and said it wouldn't cut the barrel. I went home, chucked the guide portion in my drill. Put a file on it and it came out square, fitting like a charm. When I started cutting, it worked well, but went dull after about 3 cleanings so I filed the blades and that fixed it. The cutter left a ring about 3/32s wide where it did not reach the outer edge of the barrel. Looks interesting and I now know the face is perpendicular to the bore. Gonna get a marble or ball bearing and put some lapping compound on it to break the inside edge, then clean up the outer edge.
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