View Full Version : parkerizing
June 16, 2002, 09:56
Could someone tell me a easy way to strip off old finish. I do not have a sandblaster or beedblaster. Do I have to strip off old parkerizing before I reparkerize.
June 16, 2002, 10:35
Yup, you do need to strip the old finish off. You might look around and see if there is anyone near you that could blast the parts for you. Might be someone on the board close. Blasting is definitly the way to go to get the old finish off.
June 16, 2002, 16:27
Check to see if your local smith will do it complete.
Here in Lou. its as cheap to have it done as to do it your self not including the price of equipment of course . Then its a lot more to do it yourself. But then there's no bragging rights of "I did it myself". May be cheaper to send off and come back done.
June 16, 2002, 16:39
Bead blasting is not absolutely necessary prior to Parkerizing. You must however remove any rust and original finishes or coatings. Years ago, when I was experimenting with various Parkerizing chemicals, I discovered that it really makes little difference wheather or not the parts are blasted. The chemical process (Parkerization) etches the metal either way. Two top covers; one bead blasted, and the other I buffed as though I was preparing it for Bluing. After Parkerizing, I found that I could barely differentiate between the part that was blasted, and the one that was polished. Your results will depend largely upon the quality of your metal preparation. Any grease or oil (even from finger prints) will foul up a good job. Use a good de-greaser chemical (I use hardware store variaty powdered Tri-Sodium Phosphate), wear latex gloves, clean rinse water, stir and properly mantain temperature in your Park tank...in other words...follow the instructions.
I also discovered that you can hot-blue over Parkerizing. Great looking finish. Wouldn't try it on the stove though!
...Or, if you want it blasted, I'll be more than happy to do it for you. Just UPS it to me along with a check/money order for $30.00 (my fee for forum members only) and I'll blast all the parts and spray them with Hold and send them back to you.
Just email me for shipping info.;)
June 16, 2002, 17:10
There you go.
June 16, 2002, 20:17
Is that offer good to any member of the files? I have a grade III kit from Dan's about 99% disassembled and it needs refinished. I just had my furniture sandblasted (mediocre job) and that cost me $15.00! There is a local gunsmith here (Jack First) but I'd blow Aluminum Oxide through a straw before I do business with them. (they wanted to charge me $150.00 for a FFL transfer!!
Does that price include all the small parts too? pins, screws etc?
I'd much rather give my $$$'s to the good folks on the "Files."
June 16, 2002, 20:36
$150.00 for an FFL transfer??? WOW! Well...do what Nancy Ragan says, "Just say NO!" LOL
I don't think I ever charged more than $15.00 for a transfer.
And yes, that price ($30.00) is only for FAL FILES FORUM members. (I usually charge $50.00 for blasting gas guns)
Take all your small parts and put them in a heavy-duty zip-lock bag, or any enclosure that will keep them all together. I'll go through it all and inform you if your missing anything after I recieve it. Only send the parts you want blasted...no springs or wood. And yes, the price includes all the small pins and screws. Also...at this discount, I would prefer you dissassemble the kit prior to shipping.
If you have a stuck front sight thats gonna be a SOB to remove, you might want to send an extra $10.00 for my labor. It's only fair.
June 16, 2002, 22:07
Now come on Z,
Anybody with the resources to get a big block into a z-28 Knows somebody with a blast cabinet!;)
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