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DakTo
June 19, 2017, 14:44
Does anyone know for sure what type of finish and how it was applied on Canadian C1 & C1A1 wood?
Thanks.


http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/RedlegFN/001_zpsw2cij34k.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/RedlegFN/media/001_zpsw2cij34k.jpg.html)

ExCdnSoldierInTx
June 19, 2017, 15:06
Just rubbed linseed oil, AFAIK.

chrsdwns
June 19, 2017, 15:22
Boiled linseed oil.

Applied econonomically

A nos L2A1/C2A1 bipod's wood is the best example of original Canadian military finish for wood stocks

Ramone
June 19, 2017, 16:46
RLO, or raw linseed oil. Boiled will work, but tends to leave behind traces that become sticky and hard.

DakTo
June 19, 2017, 18:19
Thanks guys for the linseed oil recommendations.

I notice the wood has a two-tone appearance and very little definition of the woods grain. Linseed oil would give the same appearance as the wood in my photo without any type of dark stain applied?

Ramone
June 19, 2017, 18:36
Yes. I use a sponge like what's used to apply stain, then keep applying for several coats. After the first coat, use your hands to rub the oil in, then buff it out with an old towel. This will remove dirt and grime, but leave the original patina.
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab77/reinigung/Stock%20Right_zpsfd4w2vtc.jpg (http://s851.photobucket.com/user/reinigung/media/Stock%20Right_zpsfd4w2vtc.jpg.html)

DakTo
June 20, 2017, 08:55
Ramone that is a nice refinish on the butt stock.

I notice on both of my butt stocks the finish is flat and the stocks have a odor which in unlike the Australian butt stocks. The Canadian C1A1's must have been applied with some type of wood preservative.

I'm doing an early C1 build and using an EX1 type carry handle as an early C1 slim carry handle with the metal caps are impossible to find. I have tried to match the color of the butt stock in applying one coat of dark walnut stain followed by a second coat of Chestnut Ridge dark walnut with a hint of red and one coat of Tung Oil.
The greater challenge is to not to cut my NOS C1A1 hand guards into an earlier set so I ordered an unfinished walnut set from Flypaper. That is where I am looking for direction on finishing.


http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/RedlegFN/001_zpse1vlubsl.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/RedlegFN/media/001_zpse1vlubsl.jpg.html)

Ramone
June 20, 2017, 11:39
Thanks, but its not a refinish, its the way it came. The only thing I did was put a little RLO on it for a few hours, then buff it off. The more you use it, the more wood like Walnut takes on that type of color.

Riversidesports
June 20, 2017, 16:19
It was all Linseed

If I dig a bit around I still have a partial case of Canuck military linseed from the 60s.

Some wax was applied in some commands as well

Ramone
June 20, 2017, 16:32
Purified beeswax works great. I mix 3 equal parts of raw linseed oil, turpentine, and a chunk of the aforementioned beeswax, melt them together, and save it as a paste.
Rub it on with your hands, and buff off with a towel. Works great.

olddominion
June 20, 2017, 20:46
Gunny paste. I have no raw linseed oil so I used pine tar instead.

Gives wood a great grip. Smells good too!

ExCdnSoldierInTx
June 20, 2017, 20:53
I think I've got an early carry handle or two at my Folk's place in Regina. Next time I get up there, I'll try to dig some of the stuff out.

enbloc8
June 20, 2017, 21:48
I'm doing an early C1 build and using an EX1 type carry handle as an early C1 slim carry handle with the metal caps are impossible to find.

They've been repro'd...I don't know who it was that made them, but I have one here.

DakTo
June 21, 2017, 08:12
I think I've got an early carry handle or two at my Folk's place in Regina. Next time I get up there, I'll try to dig some of the stuff out.

I would be interested and thanks.

DakTo
June 21, 2017, 08:15
They've been repro'd...I don't know who it was that made them, but I have one here.

I would be most interested in seeing a photo and how much C1 originality was captured in their builds.

DakTo
June 21, 2017, 08:32
Gunny paste. I have no raw linseed oil so I used pine tar instead.

Gives wood a great grip. Smells good too!

Nice to hear from a fellow Virginian. I suppose now I am a former Virginian.:cry:

I would love to see a photo of the results if possible.

DakTo
June 21, 2017, 08:47
What complicates matters is the difference in coloration of Canadian wood as seen in the photo.
The hand guards on the upper 8L photo are much lighter than the much darker set of the lower parts kit. The lighter color is the type which were sold by Marstar in the early 1990's. The butt stocks and pistol grips are pretty much matte and more uniform.
Perhaps I am hunting a mosquito with an elephant gun here and if there are any historical references, which I cannot find, LMK. Thanks.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/RedlegFN/001_zps4qng7jo2.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/RedlegFN/media/001_zps4qng7jo2.jpg.html)

chrsdwns
June 21, 2017, 09:32
There is a huge variation in Long Branch wood .

I have seen everything from a very dark brown to light tan to almost purple.

Grain from almost no visible grain or figure to near presentation grade wood

If I remember, some of the Marstar wood was unfinished and it darkens up when you hit it with the linseed

Looked at a C2 bipod last night where the wood was finished to a dark brown but a nicked area of unfinished wood was a much lighter brown,almost tan.

Ramone
June 21, 2017, 09:45
Over time, RLO will darken up the wood, so if you want your hand guards to match in shade, just keep applying it. This does take some time, and there is no guarantee that it will ever match.

DakTo
June 21, 2017, 10:28
Thank you all for the valuable information. :beer:
It seem horseshoes and grenades are not the only close which is acceptable.

olddominion
June 22, 2017, 23:34
Nice to hear from a fellow Virginian. I suppose now I am a former Virginian.:cry:

I would love to see a photo of the results if possible.


I'm not gifted when it comes to posting pictures.

Maybe one day I will get it right. Pine tar paste or Tom's mix, will darken the wood.

I use it to help seal the wood and I like the grip. It's not sticky, has a "shall I say"
non slip feel.

I like it, but it must be applied periodically. Try it and see how it works for you.

DakTo
June 23, 2017, 07:27
Thank you for the advice and I will research both online.

I watched a few clips on 50/50 Pine Tar and Lindseed Oil. I would like this application on a new and unfinished FAL butt stock and would prefer the wood darker on a Canadian butt stock.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/21pnyvB_a0g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

ExCdnSoldierInTx
June 23, 2017, 12:12
I noticed that in service, the wood would darken with use as well. Oil from the hands, constant use, etc, seemed to buff, darken, and polish the wood.
Yes, no two pieces were the same. There was much variation, even side to side on some rifles. I saw plenty of rifles with a double slot handguard on one side and a solid handguard on the other side.
We would swap amongst each other to get matching sets.
Canadian wood was always dark.

Also, I've seen plenty of troops use gun oil on their wood. Why, I don't know, but they did. That was usually basic training recruits, though, and deployed soldiers never did anything quite that stupid.
I was happy to "readjust" their line of thinking when I caught them in the act.

DakTo
June 23, 2017, 18:51
Some recruits would do the same thing with their M1's before placing them in the racks. I guess like everything else in basic training all was overkill.
During artillery training at Ft Sill we would take the 2.5 or 5 ton gun trucks to the wash racks for cleaning before taking them back to the motor pool for inspection. If the SFC found any dirt it was back to the wash rack on our time.
We would wipe the entire truck down with Howitzer tube cleaner and the OD color would really shine. It worked with the Sarge as he would only look at the trucks about 20 feet away on his way to the NCO Club.

enbloc8
June 25, 2017, 09:52
Also, I've seen plenty of troops use gun oil on their wood. Why, I don't know, but they did. That was usually basic training recruits, though, and deployed soldiers never did anything quite that stupid.
I was happy to "readjust" their line of thinking when I caught them in the act.

As I recall, the Australian soldiers' manual for the SLR makes mention of doing that...but only in arid conditions if regular linseed et al. wasn't available. A case of "anything better than nothing".

In the recruits' case, probably they had heard of "oiled" wood or seen furniture being wiped down, but didn't understand *what* was actually being used.

DakTo
June 28, 2017, 15:42
These are the early type hand guards I will use on the C1 build. Flypaper had done an excellent job in the making of these hand guards and I especially like the end wood stubs which fit into the HG retaining ring tight as a rats ass. No wobble with these hand guards.
The finishing was 4 coats of Minwax special walnut #223, 1 coat of Chestnut Ridge Supply walnut with a hint of red. I did not want to use any type of drying oil so I gently rubbed in Casey/Birchwood Stock Sheen & Conditioner to seal the wood and hand buff to a satin finish.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/RedlegFN/003_zpslbjxqma2.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/RedlegFN/media/003_zpslbjxqma2.jpg.html)

Ramone
June 28, 2017, 19:07
Looks great!