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dragunov
June 15, 2002, 01:44
I love my FAL and all but what the heck can I do about the failures to eject? This is an Imbel grade 1 kit built on an Imbel receiver and completely refinished to look like new by a very reputable Arizona gunsmith. I have adjusted the gas knob this way and that but there doesn't seem to be any difference. I've tried 6 or 7 different mags but I still have the problem about 2 times per mag. The thing is now quite accurate now that I have the Para rear sight with AR-type flip aperture but I still had to file the front sight post down til its a little nub. I'm using Portuguese and Swedish surplus ammo and everything works great except for the odd case getting partially extracted. It just sits on top of the mag and gets either jammed against the bolt as it slams forward or it gets pushed to the side of the mag by the next bullet and freezes the action. I'm bummed too because I really like the way this rifle shoots.

trigger
June 15, 2002, 06:45
Check your extractor and possibly replace the spring. All I can think of. HTH

vmtz
June 15, 2002, 07:02
Is the pin that holds the gas tube present under the gas collar? If that pin is not there you will lose gas pressure and get failure to eject problems.


Vince

FWRA
June 15, 2002, 08:14
Dragunov,
Did you have the work done or was the rifle bought used? If you had the work done yourself I say contact the gunsmith. Some offer a lifetime warranty and you only pay shipping to them.

Let the gunsmith fix it!


FWRA

Falfegnügen
June 15, 2002, 09:50
Originally posted by dragunov
I have adjusted the gas knob this way and that but there doesn't seem to be any difference.

How does it eject (when it does)? With the gas system properly adjusted, do the cases eject and land several feet away at about the 1:30 position? If you turn the gas up (down in number) several numbers, how far do the cases eject? It should fling them at least 15 to 20 feet with it turned up.

Does the bolt have a 2-peice extractor?

Anyway, a properly functioning FAL should shold not have failures to eject. Even with mediocre ammo, I woudl say I've experienced such a failure maybe 1 in 500 rounds. It should be equal in reliability to a Kalashinikov (at the range anyway).

dragunov
June 15, 2002, 23:55
Thanks for your replies. The shells eject in a random pattern. Some get thrown far in the 1:30 or 3:00 position and some just hop out and land next to me. Adjusting the gas wheel does very little except when I open it up all the way and then nothing will eject. The Imbel kit does not have numbers on the adjusting wheel but I think it's set for what would be the #3 setting at the moment. This was a kit I bought from Dan's for $250 and had assembled in Arizona. All the parts looked new and unfired. It used to jam more, actually, and I figured once the rifle was broken in a bit things would work themselves out. It's now been about 180 rounds since I got it and I'm still having these problems. I'm not looking forward to sending it back to the smith so if there are any suggestions I'd love to hear them (I'll check for that pin under the gas collar).
BTW I opted to have the barrel shortened to 18" and no muzzle device. The recoil is a little strong but it's wonderfully accurate. Will give me 2" groups easily at 100 yards.

toolman_ar
June 16, 2002, 00:23
If you pull the gas rod out what does the spring look like? Is the rod black or shiny? When you clean the gas system do you clean the I.D. where the rod goes.
Take a 30 cal brass brush and run it in and out of the opening your gas rod goes into. Does the brush come out coated in black carbon?
Check these areas out and see what you find. If the gas system is pluged up the rifle cannot breath.

FWRA
June 16, 2002, 08:30
I still say let the smith fix it. It only costs about $8-$12 to ship UPS Ground if you think it might be big bucks.

If it's more an issue of the time involved to get it fixed and returned I can understand that, but it's really doing you no good in it's "jammomatic" condition.

Why fight it? Let the gunsmith have a chance to fix the problem so you can really enjoy your new rifle. Or am I missing something here? You didn't alter it from it's original "build" form did you?

Send it to Arizona! :)

FWRA

vmtz
June 16, 2002, 09:09
Speaking of gas rods. Remove your gas rod and place on a very flat surface. A glass table works great. Roll it back and forth and see if it is bent? IF it is you will see it wobble. By chance it is not a two piece gas rod? Century used to put then in there rifles, and if I remember correctly, caused similar trouble.

Vince

Bruce Allen
June 16, 2002, 09:48
Originally posted by trigger
Check your extractor and possibly replace the spring. All I can think of. HTH

I second that.. Intermittent ejection is very often actually an extraction problem.

Replacement extractors are inexpensive and easy to replace your self.



About shooting low. It is common for rifles with barrels cut to have this problem.

One easy solution is to replace you rear sight with an Inch pattern or Israeli - both of which are taller than the metric pattern rear sights.

withergyld
June 16, 2002, 12:02
I also have an 18" barreled L1a1 w/ no muzzel thingy. It cycles on anywhere from 1 to 3 (which would be eqaul to 2 to 1 on a metric). This means i am marginal in gettin gas to the piston. I am thinking about drilling out the gas port slightly to increase the gas to the piston. The gas port is .099 which is slightly larger than factory avg of .096.
If mine is barely functioning almost completely closed at .099, then you may not be getting enough gas if your gas port is .096. From what I have read here most 16" barrells require a gas port opening of .118 IIRC. Remove the front site and gas plug,piston and try inserting different size drill bits into the small hole towards the reviever after the front site is removed. Find out the largest bit that will fit through the hole. Here is a link to drill bit sizes (http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16979&highlight=drill+sizes) This would also tell you if the port is plugged or not. Make sure and look down thw barrel w/ the bit inserted to make sure it is in all the way.
One last question, are you putting oil on the piston? Oil on the piston will foul it quicker, the piston should be dry (no oil) when you shoot.

FWRA
June 18, 2002, 17:30
Dragunov,
How'd the range test go? Did you get the bugs worked out?

FWRA

7.62FMJ
June 19, 2002, 00:29
Use a 1/8th drill bit and a .30 cal cleaning rod. Remove the front sight post from the sight block. Then drill the rear gas port hole but have the cleaning rod in the barrel to keep from drilling to far. Also check and make sure the gas piston will fall through until it stops in the gas tube. If it stops to high then it may be a bent piston or tube.