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Potshot
June 10, 2002, 20:50
I have read here that the best way to fire an FAL for accuracy is one shot at a time due to varying effect of mag follower force acting upward on bolt. Has anyone played with or given any thought to tightening up the lockup of the bolt?

My thinking is that if the bolt were more tightly constrained... or tolerances were narrowed,.. from where the horizontal surface engaging the locking lug in the reciever were constrained say, +/- to a few thousandths of " ... ditto for the forward horizontal surface of the bolt ... that the weapon would be able to fire from a fully loaded mag with no decrease in accuracy. Anyone else have thoughts on this? Of course this would require either custom fitting for each rifle or material tightening up of dimensions on the reciever, bolt carrier and bolt. Anyone else have any accurizing tips on these things?

Also anyone else noticed differences b/t G1 and STG58 kits? My G1 kit has a much nicer trigger than my STG58 (even parked all sear surfaces!!) WTF?! Thanks!

monel_funkawitz
June 10, 2002, 23:02
This will probably spark comments as usual, but I don't care.

I have a FAL set up for accuracy. I have a WAC scope mount that is shimmed, 3-15 60mm scope, good barrel, bipod clamp, and lots of hand fitted parts.

I get sub MOA at 100 yards when using sandbags. Last weekend I went shooting and had a area that went out to atleast a half mile. I spotted a lump of grass that was "head" size, and was able to hit it with each shot, after modifying my POA to compensate. I had to aim a little to the right. Distance was far enough away that I could shoot, look up above the scope, and after a delay, see the moment of impact.

On a regular basis I pop chipmunks with this gun in my yard out my bedroom window.

For a battle rifle, i'd say it is pretty damn accurate. The biggest accuracy problem is the iron sights. They are junk. Mounted on upper and lower receiver, relying on the breakdown latch to hold things accurately is a joke. They are good for their intended purpose, but that is it.

Upside Down @ 100 MPH
June 10, 2002, 23:07
I think tightening up the bolt clearnace is worthwhile on a gun that you want every bit of accuracy from. I had the bolt on my STG tightened up vertically at the front and the back of the bolt. I didn't see a difference at the time, but the barrel was junk. If the bolt had been done with the barrel that's on there now it would have been a good experiment. I would be careful about tightening the bolt clearance at the front. I don't think the bolt should contact the barrel at all.

I usually single feed the rounds when accuracy testing.

Potshot
June 10, 2002, 23:39
Monel:
Agreed on the lower/upper reciever interface! How effective is "fitting" the lower to the upper via judicious application of ye olde "fine adjuster" in the pivot pin area and the rear above the takedown latch? Encouraging on your results. What reciever/barrel/kit do you have? Do you have free-float handguards? Any experience with these? I already have some so please say I didn't waste my $$!! :)

Upside Down:
I didn't mean to say to tighten the bolt closer to the barrel, sorry for any confusion. I meant to control the bolt position (shooter's) vertically with respect to the carrier by "tuning" the horizontal surfaces on the bolt. Ditto for (shooter's) left to right. The fun part may be controlling the position of the carrier in the reciever.. L-r and vert..have to be tuned to each gun??

How was your bolt tightened? Does anyone know what the bolt/carrier is made of?

I was thinking of building something silly say a Kreiger barrel or similar... not sure of which reciever though.. prob DSA.. would love to find one in a type II w/o carry cut. Thanks for the replies!!

Upside Down @ 100 MPH
June 11, 2002, 00:39
OK, I know what you mean now. My bolt was welded at the front/top, and the back/top, then machined for just enough clearance to go into lockup. The bolt is made from steel. I'm not sure which type, but it's good stuff.

I would go for the DSA Type 1 w/o carry handle cut. They don't make the type 2 w/o the cut yet.

Krieger barrel? Good deal.

Let us know what happens.

Who's doing the chambering of the new barrel?

Greywuuf
June 11, 2002, 01:30
i have a question about "tightening up" the bolt /bolt carrier fit.what woulld be the problem with just adding material with some type of brazing ? wouldn't that give you a brass type ( high lubricity ) surface. I know it would wear.... but I dont think it should be too much of a problem and its not like you are trying to hold the pressure of the bolt. heck even a nylon or teflon bushing could be used ? if it were easily replaceable ? any thoughts ? any glaring problems that I am not thinking of ?

gunsmith_tony
June 11, 2002, 11:52
Biggest problem with welding/brazing bolts and/or carriers is running the risk of de-tempering. That can be dangerous. Be careful.

Potshot
June 11, 2002, 19:56
gunsmith_tony:

Biggest problem with welding/brazing bolts and/or carriers is running the risk of de-tempering.

You betcha!! Actually you'd lose effects of quench, but we're on the same page. All parts modified or made would have to be carburized/nitrided appropriately. I have noticed what appeared to be hardness tester marks on the bolt carriers but haven't seen any on the bolt. They're probably there though. Anyone know the hardness and case depth on these by chance.

Greywuuf:
Probably wear way too fast. Would need to be as tough/hard as original surfaces.

Anyone else done anything with the actions? Upside down who did yours? Vanden Berg (ve know you are out there..) I've seen you mention this on other threads.. any benefit?

Potshot
June 11, 2002, 20:18
Monel:
Exactly what have you done to that thing??

Upside down:
Yeah, I was thinking of doing the barrel from a blank myself, but after seeing Kreiger's website... they mentioned something about clocking the gas hole drilling such that it would be in a groove rather than a land..... well I just didn't want to screw with that! lol! Who did your action work, and what did they do? Any work to locate the carrier in the reciever... to put the centerline of the bolt face in the proper vertical position?? Reciever: I already have a DSA T1 non-cut with med barrel on an STG58 kit. I would really like to have a non-cut T2 with some full whatzoomie barrel/setup. What are people's experience with the carry handle cut? To me it can't be good to machine in a nice stress-riser just above the barrel. But, dammit I want the other reinforcements as well, notably b/t barrel and lock lug and on teardown catch. The gas system might be interesting too as I'd like to do something to keep the damn piston from banging away at the barrel upon returning. Save the bolt-gun lecture I'm too lazy to flip the damn lever! Besides, I like hi-cap mags and annoying pedantic finger-waggling liberals... especially when they're in range... heh-heh-heh