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K. Funk
February 19, 2017, 09:10
I fell into a PSA PA-10 complete lower pretty cheap. I don't like the collapsible stock very well. If I were to convert over to a fixed stock, I am guessing that an A2 butt would fit it. Would I need a new buffer tube, buffer and buffer spring? AR-10 's are not as standardized as the 15's and a quick search on google found the same questions with not a lot of concrete answers. Any help to lock down an answer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

krf

lysanderxiii
February 19, 2017, 09:29
I fell into a PSA PA-10 complete lower pretty cheap. I don't like the collapsible stock very well. If I were to convert over to a fixed stock, I am guessing that an A2 butt would fit it. Would I need a new buffer tube, buffer and buffer spring? AR-10 's are not as standardized as the 15's and a quick search on google found the same questions with not a lot of concrete answers. Any help to lock down an answer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

krf
You will need a standard M16 receiver extension tube, a .308 AR rifle spring (13" long 39-40 coils), and a .308 rifle buffer (5.4 oz, 5.25" long).

Strongly suggest you get a PSA PA-10 upper, as the dimensions between uppers and lowers varies among manufacturers.

K. Funk
February 19, 2017, 11:17
That's the plan. Thank you!!

krf

hueyville
February 19, 2017, 12:58
Order a Tubbs Flatwire Spring. Works in AR15's and AR 10's. Seen it fix gremlins in both without any other modification to rifle. Made from chrome silicon, have noticed most of the nicer handguns and rifles buying these days have flat technology chrome silicone springs for recoil, magazines and more. When built my AR 10's in 6XC Tubbs tech support said they were almost mandatory in some odd cartridges. Have them in all my AR 10's, nice AR 15's and any AR build in odd cartridge or want to run suppressors with. Seems to be able to think and adjust to conditions.

FALic
February 19, 2017, 15:45
Slash heavy buffers. At the very least, good reading.

http://heavybuffers.com/index.html

KAK makes a heavy buffer for carbines that is half the price but nobody has anything comparable to the extra heavy rifle buffer which has an incredibly taming effect.

https://www.kakindustry.com/lr-308-parts/308-lower-parts/lr308-carbine-buffer-heavy

Slash likes the Wolff springs. Doesn't like flat wire springs. Slash likes to do research on buffer systems. Seems like he knows what he's talking about. Articulates well

richbug
February 19, 2017, 19:31
Strongly suggest you get a PSA PA-10 upper, as the dimensions between uppers and lowers varies among manufacturers.

Why? a regular old DMPS pattern upper works fine. Nothing special about PSA's dimensions.


K, rather than going A2 on it, you might want to consider just using a better stock on the tube you have to allow it to fit your son/normal sized people better. An A2 on the bigger rifle makes for a big rifle.

hueyville
February 19, 2017, 19:31
Followed both links. The Heavy Buffers site kind of lost me with this:


For Pistol-Calibers ONLY!
You MUST use the Maxim CQB receiver extension - Attempting to use these buffers in a regular rifle or carbine receiver extension will result in damage/injury/mayhem.

If you have an issue down the road what are the odds of getting replacement parts at your LGS or buddies spare parts kit? Did download all his charts and reference which recomended Wolff springs for all which he sells. Have no problem with Wolff or JP springs and use both especially when find at a deal. Will stock up and use just for pricepoint sake if find them cheap. He specifically recommends not to use flatwire springs. A big issue for me is have not built an AR in pistol cartridge in a long time. After playing with a few, saw no point in an AR that fired same projectile as my sidearm does. Briefcase that carry my paperwork in daily has this in it.

http://i65.tinypic.com/2ajriom.jpg

Even better is briefcase is an FBI contract model with both soft level 3a Kevlar armor and a Dyneema Multi-Threat plate. As snake the 2022 out with 15 rounds of SIG 147 grain subsonic am pretty well armed and the little soft briefcase draws no attention in even the highest class conference room meeting. Hard to smuggle an AR pistol in as discreetly and has five spare magazines in specially sewn holders under velcro flap. Snake out the SIG and take cover behind the case.

http://i63.tinypic.com/2yuznlk.jpg

All of my AR builds are rifles now. Majority of my 5.56 builds have a H2 buffer and 6.8's an H3 buffer both with tungsten weights which is what he uses for weights, or so sit says. Prefer to use a buffer that will run with any common tube, stock or spring. First trip to range with a new build(s) carry a pocket full of H1, H2, H3 and H4 tungsten buffers. As play with rifle swap around till find heaviest buffer that will allow full rearward bolt travel to pick up next round with assortment of bullet weights. While many say need shot gas to get rifle to runderstand wit suppressors, useems mostly intermediate and rifle length. On carbine length use curly/pigtail tubes to lengthen gas system.

Last six rifles went to range at same time for maiden voyages. (Five went at same time on previous trip) Made no gas adjustments, two of four 5.56 were swapped from H2 to H3 buffers and whether 40 grain varmint bullets or 77 grain OTM the 5.56 rifles were good to go. Suppressor or not didn't change anything either and ran fine. The two 6.8's went from H3 to H4 and ran 85 grain to 120 grain ammo suppressed or not flawlessly. Have been a fan of heavy buffers for quite some time.

So on topic of AR 10 buffers, if using a collapsible stock would recomend Slash's CAR-10 heavy buffer as a top choice. Have always bought mine (yes have them in my 338 Federal's) from Brownells as $10 cheaper and can tag onto another order when they are running a free shipping deal. Have the DPMS six ounce buffer in my two 6XC's which are small cartridges by AR 10 standards and only cost $20 each which allows you to allocate more money somewhere else in the build. Already have another one of these for the upcoming 7mm-08 build. Plan to put adjustible gas on it because of the light buffer. Did same on the 6XC's, $20 buffer with flatwire spring and adjustable gas block.

Thing with heavy buffers is sometimes hit the point where slows bolt down too much and doesn't come back enough to pick up next round, some would call that a gas issue and drill the port for more gas. As in skinning cats, lots of methods and everyone has a favorite. I have used both, in a 308 may let the intended ammo play into decision. If plan to burn up milsurp 150 grain ammo or launch 175 grain match bullets or heavier may swing you to a heavy.

raubvogel
February 19, 2017, 23:00
Here is yet another A2 buttstock for the AR10

http://blackthorneproducts.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_21&products_id=600

lysanderxiii
February 20, 2017, 11:04
Why? a regular old DMPS pattern upper works fine. Nothing special about PSA's dimensions.


K, rather than going A2 on it, you might want to consider just using a better stock on the tube you have to allow it to fit your son/normal sized people better. An A2 on the bigger rifle makes for a big rifle.
A friend of mine had a DPMS upper on a PSA lower, the centerline of the two bores was off by about 0.010". They may have changed their design, it just may be a tolerance thing. Not knowing which, it is best to be safe.

PSA doesn't guarantee their uppers and lowers will fit DPMS, but they do guarantee their PSA upper fits their PSA lower.

ByronF
February 20, 2017, 12:47
You saying vertical height of PSA bore was different than vertical height of DPMS bore? Let me guess: PSA was lower.

My all- PSA AR10 bound up when I installed RRA 2-stage. BCG was too low wrt the trigger assembly so the BCG would not clear the hammer when fully cocked.

So maybe a DPMS upper would fit better than a PSA upper on a PSA lower. I have no idea if the misfit of my upper and lower was due to the upper or lower.

My PA10 was from when the kits first came out.

lysanderxiii
February 20, 2017, 14:53
You saying vertical height of PSA bore was different than vertical height of DPMS bore? Let me guess: PSA was lower.

My all- PSA AR10 bound up when I installed RRA 2-stage. BCG was too low wrt the trigger assembly so the BCG would not clear the hammer when fully cocked.

So maybe a DPMS upper would fit better than a PSA upper on a PSA lower. I have no idea if the misfit of my upper and lower was due to the upper or lower.

My PA10 was from when the kits first came out.
I can't remember which way it was, but He was madder than a wet hornet, wound up making the gun store replace the thing (It was sold as an up-and-running gun)

ByronF
February 20, 2017, 18:07
Mine had issue with milspec type trigger group where hammer would get stuck on disconnector. After firing the next pull of the trigger would travel through full pull but no hammer drop. No sensation of hammer against sear. Shaved a bit off of some part of disconnector and trigger worked fine.

But wouldnt feed well if mag had more than 18 rd, and gouged brass terribly regardless. Dehorned and polished the razor sharp barrel extension lugs and ran like a raped ape.

Until I installed a RRA 2-stage trigger. That hammer doesnt cock down as low as the mispec type so had to bevel top front corner of hammer until BC didnt drag on it.

Now it works well for me. For what I have into it I'm still satisfied. If one has low tolerance for tinkering a PA10 may not be for you. great deal if one can massage a few areas.

richbug
February 21, 2017, 19:59
A friend of mine had a DPMS upper on a PSA lower, the centerline of the two bores was off by about 0.010". They may have changed their design, it just may be a tolerance thing. Not knowing which, it is best to be safe.




I hear you talking, but have no idea what you are saying. What "two bores", are you just referring to? the distance between the top of the rail and the center of the barrel? Center of barrel to center of buffer tube? Did the bolt not slide into the buffer tube? Or just someone's cheese grater rails didn't line up?

lysanderxiii
February 21, 2017, 21:34
I hear you talking, but have no idea what you are saying. What "two bores", are you just referring to? the distance between the top of the rail and the center of the barrel? Center of barrel to center of buffer tube? Did the bolt not slide into the buffer tube? Or just someone's cheese grater rails didn't line up?
The centerline of the upper receiver 1.207" bore, and the centerline of the receiver extension 1" bore. The carrier rubbed on the extension.

hueyville
February 22, 2017, 09:09
Always err on side of least issues by ordering complete AR 10 receivers from same maker. Yes, do buy PSA uppers or lowers when on super sale but they lay in a box till they run the other piece on sale and can run matched manufacturer set.

K. Funk
March 19, 2017, 16:04
So, I ended up ordering a Magpul buttstock and it slipped right on, no mods necessary. After 5 round,s got a bad stacking jam. After getting that cleared, got a bad stovepipe type jam right across the shoulder of the round trying to feed. Another bitch to undo. After 4 more rounds, had a failure to extract, cleared that and had another failure to extract. It was clear that this rifle was not going to run. Sent it back to PSA postage paid. I got it back 10 days later and it runs like a champ. They claim the bolt carrier was bad. This rifle shoots very well at 50-100yd with a Vortex scope. I am anxious to see how it does at longer ranges. I will give it a workout over the next several weeks. Thumbs up to PSA for correcting the problem quickly.

krf

ByronF
March 19, 2017, 17:45
I recall from way back someone had a sticky ejector plunger due to machining bur or some such thing.

What style upper? Length? Material? Rail?

kev
March 19, 2017, 18:26
So if it went back to PSA for adjustment I assume you did end up with a PSA upper?

I'm piecing one together too, but switched horses midstream. Picked up a blem PSA stripped lower for stupid cheap,.....$75. Then read a little about the non-interchangeability of AR10 type parts and snagged a stripped PSA upper when they were cheap and figured I had at least the basics of a build. Then learned about the AR10 width specific parts and picked up a pack of those from PSA and then felt comfortable enough in the basics to put it all in a box and wait to get around to finishing.

THEN, a few weeks ago a guy on Weaponeer put up a complete DPMS upper with BCG and charging handle for $395 shipped and I couldn't resist. Figured there was a better than even chance that the DPMS upper wouldn't play nice with the PSA lower(and that seems to be the case just looking through the buttstock ring into the DPMS upper), but hoped that at worst I could just swap all the DPMS parts over to the PSA upper. Still need to finish out the lower to make sure the upper won't work without changing it over.

And I don't even want an AR10.