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View Full Version : a2 front sight pins/removal ????


bigsky
November 29, 2016, 10:55
just received my first standard car ar15. This is my first one that has the standard A2 "f" marked front sight..going to pull the barrel and paint the upper.
Looks like I have to pull the gas block to pull the barrel..Just checking with you folks to make sure I am on the right track, correct me if I am wrong with my assumptions.
1- Have to pull the gas block to pull the barrel.
2- looks like 2 taper pins holding the sight on.
3-looks like i drive the taper pins OUT from the left side to the right side.
4-can i use the old taper pins again.
if not does rainer,midway,brownells etc carry them?
5-are all taper pins the same length and width, which ones to buy if needed?

Off topic--remind me which end of the trigger/hammer pins goes in first from the right side, does the interior groove on the pins go on the right side.

thanks

djfin
November 29, 2016, 11:02
DO NOT REMOVE THE FSB. Read and learn the correct way to remove the barrel or take it to someone who knows what they are doing. The gas tube retaining pin is removed and the gas tube is then removed. clamp the barrel and unscrew the barrel nut.

Cornpone
November 29, 2016, 12:28
There is no reason to remove the FSB (Front Sight Base) to remove the barrel.

Here's a pretty good video on assembling the AR. Please check it out or at least view the parts that you need. ARs are easy to assemble but you still have to know what you're doing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8sY5CQmlHI

M90A1
November 29, 2016, 12:45
1 - already answered above
2 - correct
3 - correct
4 - can be used again
5 - no and just buy from your favorite AR parts source if needed

Off topic - doesn't matter

bigsky
November 29, 2016, 15:13
great answers, thanks. I must admit i forgot about pulling the gas tube pin, wasn't thinking straight,Was on a quick 10 minute break when i wrote the first post, sorry for messing it up......thanks for the reminder, also forgot to mention I was going to paint the FSB fde. along with the upper,

Thanks folks, got me going straight and true again, great site.

the gman
November 29, 2016, 19:39
I routinely pull the FSB when installing FF tubes; ain't a damn thing wrong with doing so. Top tip is to use a support such as this:https://www.midwayusa.com/product/393867/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-ar-15-armorers-bench-block

Pull the gas tube first or not.

djfin
November 30, 2016, 18:01
I routinely pull the FSB when installing FF tubes; ain't a damn thing wrong with doing so. Top tip is to use a support such as this:https://www.midwayusa.com/product/393867/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-ar-15-armorers-bench-block

Pull the gas tube first or not.

Why ?? Extra work with no gain at all. The correct way is faster and easier.

TenTea
November 30, 2016, 19:19
I routinely pull the FSB when installing FF tubes; ain't a damn thing wrong with doing so. Top tip is to use a support such as this:https://www.midwayusa.com/product/393867/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-ar-15-armorers-bench-block

Pull the gas tube first or not.

Why ?? Extra work with no gain at all. The correct way is faster and easier.

So, how exactly do you install the barrel nut for a free float tube without removing an A2 FSB?

I guess you could remove the barrel extension, but that sounds like extra work.

Are you merely talking about the gas tube and pin?

the gman
December 01, 2016, 08:33
Why ?? Extra work with no gain at all. The correct way is faster and easier.

So how am I supposed to remove the delta ring, front handguard support and the original barrel nut without pulling the FSB??? Or am I supposed to magic the free float tube barrel nut onto the barrel over the FSB??? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Not to mention when I refinish or coat a barrel, it is much, much easier to do so without having the delta ring et al in the way of the coating because much like the HG ring on a FAL barreled action, a loose delta ring wants to slide all over the damn place, usually right where I don't want to be. With over 200 AR builds and upgrades under my belt over the last 10 years, including some for friendly nation SF units actively being used to whack muzzie terrorists, I take the path of least resistance when it comes to working on AR's.

The CORRECT way depends on your objective but pulling the FSB is easy and fast and has ZERO downside because the FSB goes back exactly where it came off due to the pre-drilled and reamed taper pin holes. YMMV.:tongue:

Cornpone
December 01, 2016, 11:06
The OP isn't installing a FF tube he simple wants to paint his upper. The barrel can be removed without pulling the FSB. Man some of you guys really need to read.

djfin
December 01, 2016, 16:46
So how am I supposed to remove the delta ring, front handguard support and the original barrel nut without pulling the FSB???

With all due respect
If you read the OP again check out the part where he wants remove the barrel. No mention of the delta ring, front hand guard support and the original barrel nut.
Or am I supposed to magic the free float tube barrel nut onto the barrel over the FSB??? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Read the OP again no mention of any of this crap. rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Not to mention when I refinish or coat a barrel, it is much, much easier to do so without having the delta ring et al in the way of the coating because much like the HG ring on a FAL barreled action, a loose delta ring wants to slide all over the damn place, usually right where I don't want to be.

As the OP is doing this himself who cares how you do it??


With over 200 AR builds and upgrades under my belt over the last 10 years, including some for friendly nation SF units actively being used to whack muzzie terrorists, I take the path of least resistance when it comes to working on AR's.

WOW that's impressive. So you were a weapons maintenance tech in the service. Did not get that impression from your past posts. But as ONLY weapons techs are allowed to do that work on a military weapon you must have been one correct.

The CORRECT way depends on your objective but pulling the FSB is easy and fast and has ZERO downside because the FSB goes back exactly where it came off due to the pre-drilled and reamed taper pin holes. YMMV.:tongue:

As the objective of the OP's post was to remove the barrel the reasonable way is to pull the gas tube and unscrew the barrel nut. Some people like to do things the hard way I do not. You can pull the front bumper, grill, radiator and core support to remove an engine out the front of a car but in most cases the smart way is straight up or down

the gman
December 02, 2016, 09:07
As the objective of the OP's post was to remove the barrel the reasonable way is to pull the gas tube and unscrew the barrel nut. Some people like to do things the hard way I do not. You can pull the front bumper, grill, radiator and core support to remove an engine out the front of a car but in most cases the smart way is straight up or down

No maintenance tech here bub, I built the uppers on contract for SF. LMT 10.5 uppers converted to Mk18 spec with the requisite parts from DD. I'm an 07/SOT and have been for close to a decade. Was the VP Operations for LWRC prior to their move to MD so I've built a few AR's and designed the methods for how to do it on a production basis. :tongue::tongue:

Depending on how handy the OP is with punches, it can be easier to pull the FSB by knocking out two fairly large, easily accessible taper pins with a regular pin punch than using a special, 5/64th, easily bent, roll pin removal punch to remove the gas tube. Because, you ARE using the right punch right?:rolleyes: Then he has to get the gas tube lined back up again in the right place to reinstall it, using the correct roll pin starting punch (again, because you are doing this all the RIGHT way, yes? :rolleyes:) and then seat the pin all the way in. Heaven forbid you bend the roll pin or don't get the really thin gas tube lined up perfectly and destroy it in the process, thereby making the gun inoperable and requiring the services of a gunsmith at $$. Potential for a NEWB to f*ck up in removing the FSB? Next to ZERO. Potential for f*ck up in removing the gas tube? Huge. :whistling:

I can give Captain Caveman a punch and a hammer and have him pull the FSB in under a minute but it takes finesse, special tools and an understanding of how the gas tube fits in the block to remove it. Your analogy of removing the engine is bollocks but hey, don't let your self righteousness blind you to other ways to do the job. I'll pull the FSB in less time than it takes you to get your apron on and pull out the special tools to remove the gas tube... :devil:

djfin
December 02, 2016, 12:35
No maintenance tech here bub, I built the uppers on contract for SF. LMT 10.5 uppers converted to Mk18 spec with the requisite parts from DD. I'm an 07/SOT and have been for close to a decade. Was the VP Operations for LWRC prior to their move to MD so I've built a few AR's and designed the methods for how to do it on a production basis. :tongue::tongue:

So you must have worked for Colt way back in the 60's when the methods for building M-16's were first documented by Colt and the DOD right.


Depending on how handy the OP is with punches, it can be easier to pull the FSB by knocking out two fairly large, easily accessible taper pins with a regular pin punch than using a special, 5/64th, easily bent, roll pin removal punch to rremove the gas tube. Because, you ARE using the right punch right?:rolleyes:

Are you really this desperate to be right??? I have been using the same punch for the last thirty years without bending it.

Then he has to get the gas tube lined back up again in the right place to reinstall it, using the correct roll pin starting punch (again, because you are doing this all the RIGHT way, yes? :rolleyes:) and then seat the pin all the way in.

if you have that much trouble getting the gas tube lined up you need a new hobby. Second it's a roll pin not the trigger to a nuclear bomb. If you need a roll pin starting punch to start this pin and get it in "all the way in" then again you need a new hobby.


Heaven forbid you bend the roll pin or don't get the really thin gas tube lined up perfectly and destroy it in the process, thereby making the gun inoperable and requiring the services of a gunsmith at $$.

Your joking at this point right? All the gas tubes I have used are not "really thin" to begin with and the area where the pin goes in is solid. "thereby making the gun inoperable and requiring the services of a gunsmith at $$.
Seriously you need the services of a gunsmith to replace a damaged gas tube? You are joking right.

Potential for a NEWB to f*ck up in removing the FSB? Next to ZERO. Potential for f*ck up in removing the gas tube? Huge. :whistling:

One pin to punch out and pull the tube out, reverse to install. Very complicated

I can give Captain Caveman a punch and a hammer and have him pull the FSB in under a minute but it takes finesse, special tools and an understanding of how the gas tube fits in the block to remove it. Your analogy of removing the engine is bollocks but hey, don't let your self righteousness blind you to other ways to do the job. I'll pull the FSB in less time than it takes you to get your apron on and pull out the special tools to remove the gas tube... :devil:

A pin punch and a small ball peen hammer are not "special tools" to most people who work on firearms but hey don't let your self righteousness blind you to the facts. While I did not know that this was a contest you are full of crap with your stupid apron comment. You are taking a simple task and coming up with a complicated answer.

Cornpone
December 02, 2016, 12:42
No maintenance tech here bub, I built the uppers on contract for SF. LMT 10.5 uppers converted to Mk18 spec with the requisite parts from DD. I'm an 07/SOT and have been for close to a decade. Was the VP Operations for LWRC prior to their move to MD so I've built a few AR's and designed the methods for how to do it on a production basis. :tongue::tongue:

Depending on how handy the OP is with punches, it can be easier to pull the FSB by knocking out two fairly large, easily accessible taper pins with a regular pin punch than using a special, 5/64th, easily bent, roll pin removal punch to remove the gas tube. Because, you ARE using the right punch right?:rolleyes: Then he has to get the gas tube lined back up again in the right place to reinstall it, using the correct roll pin starting punch (again, because you are doing this all the RIGHT way, yes? :rolleyes:) and then seat the pin all the way in. Heaven forbid you bend the roll pin or don't get the really thin gas tube lined up perfectly and destroy it in the process, thereby making the gun inoperable and requiring the services of a gunsmith at $$. Potential for a NEWB to f*ck up in removing the FSB? Next to ZERO. Potential for f*ck up in removing the gas tube? Huge. :whistling:

I can give Captain Caveman a punch and a hammer and have him pull the FSB in under a minute but it takes finesse, special tools and an understanding of how the gas tube fits in the block to remove it. Your analogy of removing the engine is bollocks but hey, don't let your self righteousness blind you to other ways to do the job. I'll pull the FSB in less time than it takes you to get your apron on and pull out the special tools to remove the gas tube... :devil:

You're missing the whole point. There is no reason to remove the FSB to remove the barrel. I hold several armorer certs as well and worked for America's original AR mfg.

ICOM7800
December 02, 2016, 18:28
DO NOT REMOVE THE FSB. Read and learn the correct way to remove the barrel or take it to someone who knows what they are doing. The gas tube retaining pin is removed and the gas tube is then removed. clamp the barrel and unscrew the barrel nut.

Yes, what He said.

ICOM7800
December 02, 2016, 18:30
As the objective of the OP's post was to remove the barrel the reasonable way is to pull the gas tube and unscrew the barrel nut. Some people like to do things the hard way I do not. You can pull the front bumper, grill, radiator and core support to remove an engine out the front of a car but in most cases the smart way is straight up or down

WELL SAID!

CG&L
December 02, 2016, 19:09
Boy, this really turned out to be a shit storm.

Did the OP remove the FSB or leave it?

M90A1
December 03, 2016, 09:14
You're missing the whole point. There is no reason to remove the FSB to remove the barrel.

Yep, gman, you lose on this one. Leave the damn FSB alone, unless you're installing a FF hand-guard, 'cause sometimes those taper pins are really, and I mean REALLY, tight and can be much more of a problem than that gas tube pin.

tac-40
December 03, 2016, 22:30
Well, I have couple of questions.

How many of you have done what the majority agrees to able to drive out the gas tube pin and pull the tube out of the FSB without the use of a gas tube wrench? And if you used pliers, how many of you scratched or otherwise damaged the tube?

And how many of you just popped the taper pins and then had to whack the FSB with a mallet several times to drive it off the barrel? And in doing so how many times did you hit the gas tube? Bend it or worse?

As you can see, there are reasons for doing it both ways. Neither way is wrong. And neither way is a 100% sure fire method without any issues. It all boils down to what method the guy/gal doing the job is comfortable with.

M90A1
December 03, 2016, 22:56
Well, I have couple of questions.

How many of you have done what the majority agrees to able to drive out the gas tube pin and pull the tube out of the FSB without the use of a gas tube wrench? And if you used pliers, how many of you scratched or otherwise damaged the tube?

And how many of you just popped the taper pins and then had to whack the FSB with a mallet several times to drive it off the barrel? And in doing so how many times did you hit the gas tube? Bend it or worse?

As you can see, there are reasons for doing it both ways. Neither way is wrong. And neither way is a 100% sure fire method without any issues. It all boils down to what method the guy/gal doing the job is comfortable with.

If you can't figure out a way to perform either of those tasks without damaging something, you probably shouldn't be performing those tasks. Like I used to tell the Harley guys, there are 100 ways to do most jobs, but 99 of 'em are wrong.

bigsky
December 04, 2016, 14:40
thanks for all the input...I am done painting my parts with John Norrells moly coat, puting it all back together now..Here is what i did.
Pulled the gas tube pin,,,
slid the tube rearward just enough,,
knocked out both fsb pins...
tapped the fsb with rubber mallet a little back and forth,,
removed gas tube so its out of the way..
clamped the barrel and removed FH...
removed barrel nut..
painted upper receiver, delta ring and fsb(should have painted delta spring and circlip) too frigging late, aint doing it now...
Putting it together now and have another question, but thats for a new post.....