PDA

View Full Version : Best Price for a HK 33/53 match trigger?


EastgermanDDRguy
August 22, 2016, 11:32
I have been looking for a match trigger for my V53 and found this on HK parts.net https://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=17590 is this the best quality for the money or is there a better option you guys use? Thanks!

gunplumber
August 22, 2016, 11:34
Bill Springfield is a dangerously incompetent hack - avoid at all costs.

EastgermanDDRguy
August 22, 2016, 11:42
Bill Springfield is a dangerously incompetent hack - avoid at all costs.

Where should I look to buy one then?

FriendBesto
August 22, 2016, 12:11
The <$20 "match" spring from either HKparts or RTG will make it slightly better but there is no real match trigger unless you pick up a PSG/MSG90 trigger pack.

EastgermanDDRguy
August 22, 2016, 12:32
The <$20 "match" spring from either HKparts or RTG will make it slightly better but there is no real match trigger unless you pick up a PSG/MSG90 trigger pack.

So these "match" trigger springs are as good as a $250 trigger pack?

hkshooter
August 22, 2016, 15:22
Williams Trigger Specialties.

I think that's the name. Google it.

SAFN49
August 22, 2016, 15:27
You can do it yourself. Get a piece of plate glass and some metal polish. Just don't change any of the angles. I polished mine and it is smooth as butter and breaks like a glass rod. Didn't reduce the pull much but it feels so much better.

gunplumber
August 22, 2016, 15:55
replace the sear spring with the commercial one RtG sells, that lacks the roller.

Reduce the hammer notch to .022"

Bend the trigger spring 30 degrees from straight.

If sear angle is positive rake, change to neutral rake.

That's best for pull.

But pre-travel and over-travel are where a good trigger job comes in. This is done by tig welding the trigger arm to reduce takeup, and usually a set screw (tack welded after adjustment) for over-travel.

Do not change the hammer spring.

EastgermanDDRguy
August 22, 2016, 16:35
replace the sear spring with the commercial one RtG sells, that lacks the roller.

Reduce the hammer notch to .022"

Bend the trigger spring 30 degrees from straight.

If sear angle is positive rake, change to neutral rake.

That's best for pull.

But pre-travel and over-travel are where a good trigger job comes in. This is done by tig welding the trigger arm to reduce takeup, and usually a set screw (tack welded after adjustment) for over-travel.

Do not change the hammer spring.
Last time I tried trigger work my RPK would fired if you slowly reset the trigger. Can I send it to you plumber?

gunplumber
August 22, 2016, 19:45
Last time I tried trigger work my RPK would fired if you slowly reset the trigger. Can I send it to you plumber?

maybe in the fall, I'm so backlogged now that I can't take any new work.

Perhaps reading my tutorial on AK triggers would help. I'm guessing it's one of those Tapco G2s? They have a nasty habit of hammer-follow and doubling even if you do nothing.

https://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notes-ak/page-notes-ak.shtml

EastgermanDDRguy
August 22, 2016, 20:23
maybe in the fall, I'm so backlogged now that I can't take any new work.

Perhaps reading my tutorial on AK triggers would help. I'm guessing it's one of those Tapco G2s? They have a nasty habit of hammer-follow and doubling even if you do nothing.

https://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notes-ak/page-notes-ak.shtml

It was a G2. I rather have a pro like yourself do this kinda work, for the money I paid for it who cares what it costs now.

partisan50
August 23, 2016, 18:47
...but there is no real match trigger unless you pick up a PSG/MSG90 trigger pack.

Well don't jump to conclusions. back in the late 1980s I bought a new H&K 91 trigger group that was in a brown paper package and it was marked match trigger. It's not for a PSG1, but it has a square trigger and some kind of counter weight looking thing inside the pack. I will see if I can find it in my parts bins.

FriendBesto
August 23, 2016, 19:27
Please do. Sounds interesting.

hkshooter
August 23, 2016, 20:43
Well don't jump to conclusions. back in the late 1980s I bought a new H&K 91 trigger group that was in a brown paper package and it was marked match trigger. It's not for a PSG1, but it has a square trigger and some kind of counter weight looking thing inside the pack. I will see if I can find it in my parts bins.

Would love to see this.

gunplumber
August 24, 2016, 08:59
Well don't jump to conclusions. back in the late 1980s I bought a new H&K 91 trigger group that was in a brown paper package and it was marked match trigger. It's not for a PSG1, but it has a square trigger and some kind of counter weight looking thing inside the pack. I will see if I can find it in my parts bins.

sounds like an MSG90 (or an SG3 without the set function?).

MJ1
August 24, 2016, 10:25
Not sure what today's price is.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/montereyjack/WTS/psg1_zpsdu0a5nae.jpg

hkshooter
August 24, 2016, 11:14
PSG1 trigger. Note the shelf. The G3SG1 and MSG90 trigger is select fire and is not relieved for the shelf. The "counter weight thing" is the trigger shoe.

Klaus Von Richter
August 24, 2016, 12:45
replace the sear spring with the commercial one RtG sells, that lacks the roller.

Reduce the hammer notch to .022"

Bend the trigger spring 30 degrees from straight.

If sear angle is positive rake, change to neutral rake.

That's best for pull.

But pre-travel and over-travel are where a good trigger job comes in. This is done by tig welding the trigger arm to reduce takeup, and usually a set screw (tack welded after adjustment) for over-travel.

Do not change the hammer spring.

Hey Gunplumber (or anyone else with experience)
I am doing my first HK trigger job and I am having an issue with pre travel. I'm using a set screw to adjust the pre travel. Well I can get almost all of it out except for the last bit. when I take up all the slack from the trigger spring, my trigger is in the path of the slot for the saftey. So I can not engage the saftey with all slack removed. I haven't tack welded the screw yet. It s seems like grinding the corner of the trigger would fix the issue but it might interfere with the safety being able to work. Here is a pic.

This is with all pre travel taken out.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/richardmofo/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsocuzimmn.jpeg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/richardmofo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsocuzimmn.jpeg.html)

gunplumber
August 24, 2016, 17:16
Not sure what today's price is.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/montereyjack/WTS/psg1_zpsdu0a5nae.jpg

PSG-1, while I've seen people asking $600, I've seen them go for $450-$500 Depends on whether complete with palm swell grip and shoe, which adds another $150+ RtG had a bunch a few years ago.

HK PArts.net wants $900, but I don't know if anyone actually pays that.

partisan50
August 24, 2016, 18:50
The "counter weight thing" is the trigger shoe.

Sorry, it's not a trigger shoe. It's in the pack near the top.

gunplumber
August 24, 2016, 19:06
Hey Gunplumber (or anyone else with experience)
I am doing my first HK trigger job and I am having an issue with pre travel. I'm using a set screw to adjust the pre travel. Well I can get almost all of it out except for the last bit. when I take up all the slack from the trigger spring, my trigger is in the path of the slot for the saftey. So I can not engage the saftey with all slack removed. I haven't tack welded the screw yet. It s seems like grinding the corner of the trigger would fix the issue but it might interfere with the safety being able to work. Here is a pic.


Same with a FAL - remove all pretravel and selector won't fit. That's one thing I don't like on DSA's "speed trigger". You have to remove the set screw to remove the selector.

Just accept that a little pretravel is going to be there. Remove the overtravel, and while the scale may still say 7 pounds, it feels like 5.

Klaus Von Richter
August 24, 2016, 19:17
Same with a FAL - remove all pretravel and selector won't fit. That's one thing I don't like on DSA's "speed trigger". You have to remove the set screw to remove the selector.

Just accept that a little pretravel is going to be there. Remove the overtravel, and while the scale may still say 7 pounds, it feels like 5.

Thanks Gunplumber

spider991
August 24, 2016, 20:07
Bill Springfield is a dangerously incompetent hack - avoid at all costs.

Before I knew this year's ago, I sent a trigger to bill and I got a nice, 2-5 round burst with every couple of trigger pulls. Got some not-so-nice looks from the range master at the local gunrange,lol....after two more trips back it finally came back a semi-auto ...never again

hkshooter
August 24, 2016, 21:04
Before I knew this year's ago, I sent a trigger to bill and I got a nice, 2-5 round burst with every couple of trigger pulls. Got some not-so-nice looks from the range master at the local gunrange,lol....after two more trips back it finally came back a semi-auto ...never again

I had a couple of his trigger jobs. One is in an SAR8 that I no longer own but I haven't heard any complaints. The other is in my 33k and currently works fine. I don't trust it, however, and am tempted to send it out to be redone by someone else. Or simply replace the hacked parts with surplus and call it good, it's not a target rifle.

BIG50
August 25, 2016, 17:00
Hey guys BIG50 here i have 80 HKG3 trigger packs that i have converted to semi auto with the national match sear springs ( no roller type) that gunplumber is talking about with a trigger job. My trigger jobs are just the way gunplumber explains above i polish all contact points, reverse bend the trigger and sear spring trim down the hammer lug slightly all completly re parkerised with all triggers gun koted black. i have been doing this for many years now without a single problem no going into full auto mode or reset problems. Now i will not call these match grade packs but i will say these are a nice crisp and reduced pull. 30 of these are on my personal HKG3, 33, mp5's i have done thousands of these over the years for others when i was in business building HK'S if anyone is interested i will start selling the 50 packs i have. If you are wanting to put one of these G3 packs in a 93,33, 53 all you have to do is put your ejector lever in and go the only tool you will need is a small punch or screwdriver to push out the small ejector lever pin. If you want one of these packs in your 94, mp5 you do the same remove and install your ejector lever and put your hammer spring in a tiny pick or screwdriver is all that is needed to remove the hammer spring. I will sell these for $100. Ea plus shipping if you have an unconverted full auto HKG3 pack that you want to send in for an exchange for one of mine then i will do $75. Exchange plus shipping. Sorry i am long winded here i like to fully explain things to all so we are all on the same page. Thanks for your time let me know if i can help.BIG50

MJ1
August 26, 2016, 17:52
I will be offing my HK collection over the next few months and stripping all the extra original stocks, PSG buffers and PSG style triggers off them and will post some here before December. :facepalm::facepalm:

SAFN49
August 26, 2016, 18:20
I will be offing my HK collection over the next few months and stripping all the extra original stocks, PSG buffers and PSG style triggers off them and will post some here before December. :facepalm::facepalm:

I'll take some, most, maybe all of it!

I'm getting ready to downsize some, and upgrade in different areas.