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4x401
January 22, 2016, 19:43
I traded into a new Para Combat Elite and want to dump the series 80 shitty trigger crap. I understand just removing the parts isn't enough, so anyone have the skinny on whats needed to restore it to series 70 standards??

BUFF
January 22, 2016, 20:33
Removal of the trigger-activated safety parts won't affect trigger pull feel, at least on Colts. The mass of the involved parts is extremely small and the only spring, the firing pin plunger spring, is tiny and weak. Don't know about Para Ordnance.

While I prefer the original design, I haven't seen any problems with the Colt Series 80 guns that were caused by the firing pin safety system. My department required it on guns carried on- and off-duty. I carried Series 80 Government Models and lightweight Commanders for 22 years, shooting them a lot. The firing pin lock safety is not a problem.

SAFN49
January 22, 2016, 22:55
A you tube video for idiots.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i6H1tUP6IwM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

SWOHFAL
January 22, 2016, 23:19
I know they sell filler plates to ensure the gap by the hammer is filled - try Brownell's

4x401
January 23, 2016, 00:07
A you tube video for idiots.

Thanks asshole!:blackeye:

SAFN49
January 23, 2016, 00:27
Thanks asshole!:blackeye:

You are welcome ya douche nozzle. :biggrin:

gunplumber
January 23, 2016, 08:14
Personally, I see no point in removing the series 80 parts. I think they are an excellent means of addressing a concern. The importance of that concern is another issue. If you have a crappy trigger, and it's a series 80, it will still be a crappy trigger after removing the series 80 parts.

But yea, as mentioned above. Filler plate, or just cut off the lever and use the old plate.

A friend of mine was security at an event and a guy stormed the place with a gun. He drew his series 80 and pulled the trigger. It went click instead of bang. He ran out to his car, grabbed his Glock, came running back and shot him.

Later analysis revealed improper installation of the series 80 parts which allowed hammer to fall without deactivating FP disconnect.

When function testing a series 80 (or any gun for that matter) I put a plastic rod like pen down the bore, point at the ceiling and pull the trigger. I want to see that pen hit the ceiling. Can't use a pencil as the eraser absorbs too much energy.

W.E.G.
January 23, 2016, 08:55
I heard that the firing pin of a Glock will launch a Bic "stick" pen high enough to score a hole-in-one in the globe of a courtroom chandelier.

MilsurpMonkey
January 23, 2016, 09:10
The para triggers are just crappy triggers, my daily carry is a para mutt, Canadian p14 lower with Colt commander upper, all series 80. Tried removing the series 80 parts and it did nothing for it. Ended up with a Wilson trigger setup and now its excellent even with the pin block. Ymmv.

4x401
January 23, 2016, 10:21
Ended up with a Wilson trigger setup and now its excellent even with the pin block. Ymmv.

Are the Wilson parts a drop-in, or do they need fitted?

MilsurpMonkey
January 23, 2016, 11:56
I believe the single stack guns are drop in, but benefit from fitting, my double stack had to be done by a smith.

BUFF
January 23, 2016, 19:25
"Later analysis revealed improper installation of the series 80 parts which allowed hammer to fall without deactivating FP disconnect."

One of my department's "armorers" did that to one of my Commanders during his "inspection" before a qualification shoot.

"TWEEEEEEEET!" Snap. Snick. Click. Taprackclick... taprackclick...

The pencil test should be part of any post-teardown/reassembly of any semiauto handgun.

gunplumber
January 24, 2016, 09:11
I consider hitting the 98' ceiling from my elbow on the bench, to be indicative of sufficient hammer spring. Failure to hit the ceiling suggests weakness hammer spring. Sticking in the ceiling suggest excessive hammer spring pressure.

Not very scientific, but it's served me well.

Old style ball points with the heavy plastic base.

Again, while pencils sometimes work, the rubber eraser acts as a shock absorber. It's one thing to test that it does hit, another to test the degree.

D P Six
January 24, 2016, 11:13
As an aside. The Series 80 was not the first time Colt ventured into 1911 blocking safeties. A somewhat rare variation of the 1911 contained the Swartz safety firing pin block. This modification was produced from the late 30's to the early 40's with many of these guns being shipped off to South America on contract. This design was simpler and probably better that the later Series 80. While I prefer the more elegant non safety design I would not be surprised if the military had it's first accidental discharge with a 1911 within 24 hours of receiving the first shipment of Government Models.

BUFF
January 24, 2016, 16:21
When Smith & Wesson began building their version of the 1911, they used the Schwartz firing pin block. Dunno if it is still current with them.

nvcdl
January 25, 2016, 20:18
Believe Kimber is using a Swartz safety now - they didn't when they first started - my Kimber Custom doesn't have one.

SteelonSteel
January 29, 2016, 09:39
"Later analysis revealed improper installation of the series 80 parts which allowed hammer to fall without deactivating FP disconnect."

One of my department's "armorers" did that to one of my Commanders during his "inspection" before a qualification shoot.

"TWEEEEEEEET!" Snap. Snick. Click. Taprackclick... taprackclick...

The pencil test should be part of any post-teardown/reassembly of any semiauto handgun.

Always pays to check the armorers work. I had a coworker ask me what was wrong with his issue Glock. He unloads his gun every night and found that his gun was not kicking the extracted round out. Pretty hard to do with no ejector installed. Apparently the armorer got distracted when putting in the updated extractor and ejector upgrades.

hueyville
September 12, 2016, 08:39
Needed a thread to ask this question so since "crap" was in title figured perfect thread. Bought a Colt Officers Model with some finish issues to build. Gathered all parts for a custom build but guy offered me much more money for pistol than paid and sold figuring would find another Officers with some issue allowing to buy cheap but has not happened.

Just had guy stop by work wanting to sell an American Tactical Imports Titan which appears to be an Officers copy from Philippines. Has seven rounds fired, he discovered 45 ball ammo in a tiny package was not worth loading magazine a second time. Was asking $300, showed him where could buy new $349, used $250ish. Made a $200 offer & he is pondering it. Sure he will run around town to try and top my offer.

If he comes back, are the ATI frames and slides worth using on a build? Never even held one till today. Quality of steel is main concern, can tighten slide and fit to frame. No other factory parts will be used so just need to know if slide and frame have serious tolerance issues that can't be easily addressed or poor quality steel. Have a complete carry comp package to drop in something Officers size. If not and have to step up and back my offer a $200 1911 that functions can't be all bad.

As to issues mentioned with guns not working after cleaning or maintenance. Most Saturday's clean all my regular carry guns if got shot during week which at least two or three get fired. After cleaning and doing a function test, run a full magazine through each to know for sure they function and sights are spot on. I don't consider a pistol with a single magazine run through it dirty, just verified nothing is wrong. If not cleaned again the following Saturday will be the next. Almost always put 50 to 100 rounds through my Sunday primary carry on Saturday due to nature of environment if had to be fired Sunday want to be sure have no doubt will put bullets where need to go. Also need to KNOW will fire so after cleaned run that single magazine through it then wipe down with oily rag.

Mark IV
September 13, 2016, 11:31
You'll need one of these.

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frame-hardware/fillers/tj-s-1911-series-80-to-series-70-conversion-shims-prod13121.aspx