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richbug
December 28, 2015, 16:33
I came into a 1938 "147" Mauser. It has had the typical Bubba treatment, drilled receiver, super high rings, cheap scope, sights removed, low safety, laminated stock sanded so the steel is proud everywhere...

The bore is nice, no import marks, numbers match, some original blue, barrel not cut...

Is it worth the effort and money?

Are the right parts out there?

Olaf
December 28, 2015, 17:31
Drilled and tapped receiver will kill it for collectors in my opinion even not being import marked, parts are out there but again in my opinion, you'll have more in it than you'll be able to get out of it.
My .02

Peconga
December 28, 2015, 19:22
Drilled and tapped receiver plus fubar-ed wood unfortunately makes it beyond redemption to a collector. :facepalm: Yes, it could be restored but it would take far more time and money than it would be worth to make it even close to correct.

However, if the bolt is also original and matching and the handle not modified, it might be a good basis for someone to build a replica sniper rifle using reproduction High Turret mounts and a period commercial scope. At least that's what I would do :angel:

Also before I forget, the S/147 code means it was made by J.P. Sauer. Would love to see pictures if you get the chance.

easttex
December 28, 2015, 20:47
Got any photos of it?

richbug
December 28, 2015, 22:30
Also before I forget, the S/147 code means it was made by J.P. Sauer. Would love to see pictures if you get the chance.


Bolt not messed with, number on bolt matches.

Not "S/147", just "147" Still JP Sauer though is my understanding.

randy762ak
December 29, 2015, 23:02
Sure its worth messing with--Just keep an eye out for parts at gun shows,,a buddy might have an old stock Buy a barrel rotten rifle for sights parts etc.

Remember when Collectors turned up their noses at a 4 dr sedan 57 chevy's Only 2dr coups were worth owning -- your rifle might never be the safe queen But 99% of restoration is the fun of doing it yourself !

K. Funk
December 31, 2015, 09:59
For me, the drilled holes are a deal killer. I am working on an AR 42 that had only a stock alteration and the rim for the hand guard on the rear sight base ground off. The new sight base got here yesterday and I have 3 all matching stock sets coming from Amsterdam. They are Norwegian captures, but the Nords only stamped the butt plates, not the stocks themselves. I will also be bidding on a 243 code 1940 dated bubba'd k98 on Saturday. This will bring my total to 21, all different code and year combos from 1934 to 1945 with only a handful of RC's and 2 all original all matching. I will bring my recently completed CE 43 to Frozen Nutz on the 23rd.

krf

richbug
December 31, 2015, 10:35
My mind keeps coming back to the holes. They don't bother me, I'd probably just put plug screws in them.

If they really did bother me, I have a friend who is a micro-tig welder who I am certain could fix them for me for a few bucks to the point you would never know they were there(aside from the blue).

Karl, any chance you would share the info on the source in Europe?

If I make it to FrozenNutz, I may stop at Springfield Sporters on the way down Friday and see what I can turn up.

MilsurpMonkey
December 31, 2015, 10:48
Old war horses are always worth saving!

K. Funk
December 31, 2015, 15:27
Rich,

My source is Tommy Vervest. He is well known on Gunboards. His e-mail is us1945@hotmail.com. Tell him I sent you.

krf

Hellraiser
January 02, 2016, 13:36
That's a difficult one...

Drilled receiver is a nono...

If you have to buy all the parts,
stock, rings, rear sight, ... and then have the rear
sight soldered by a gunsmith, ...

Think you'll end up spending as much as you would have
bought a nice one instead and still have the drilled receiver.

But you can always make it a sniper high/low turret replica!
then the holes aren't visible anymore.

So eventually, your choice ;)

richbug
January 03, 2016, 14:41
That's a difficult one...

Drilled receiver is a nono...

If you have to buy all the parts,
stock, rings, rear sight, ... and then have the rear
sight soldered by a gunsmith, ...

Think you'll end up spending as much as you would have
bought a nice one instead and still have the drilled receiver.

But you can always make it a sniper high/low turret replica!
then the holes aren't visible anymore.

So eventually, your choice ;)


I don't need a gunsmith. I am as capable as 90% of the ones around my area. Soldering isn't rocket science.


The more I consider the project, the more inclined I am to forge to bolt for a lower scope mounting, and putting a nice piece of walnut on it.

ftierson
January 03, 2016, 15:28
I don't need a gunsmith. I am as capable as 90% of the ones around my area. Soldering isn't rocket science.


The more I consider the project, the more inclined I am to forge to bolt for a lower scope mounting, and putting a nice piece of walnut on it.

That's most likely what I'd do...

I have a semi-bubbaed M1950 Belgian in .30-06 (original) that only had the stock dicked with (cut off way too short in the front). The handguard was missing. The rifle had been in a house that had a fire (the rifle was not in the fire) and had a light coating of rust/residue on the bolt from mist from the water used to put the fire out. I cleaned the bolt off with 0000 steel wool and the bolt looks nearly new (it was left shiny in the original).

The original military stock was an absolutely beautiful piece of walnut that you'd have to pay through your ass for these days but, as mentioned, it was cut too short at the front (it still had the original steel buttplate) when 'sporterized' by whoever.

These rifles were 'painted' originally, and there is a little wear on the exposed barrel and where the original handguard was clipped on.

I seriously thought about a complete restoration since I would only need a few parts (stock, handguard, bands, etc.) and they probably can be found, but finally decided against it because the bore is a little rougher than I'd like.

I finally just refinished the 'sporterized' stock, letting the beautiful figure of the walnut shine, and use it as a backup hunting rifle, original iron sights and straight bolt handle and all. It's a great shooter, even with the less than perfect bore.

Every once in a while, the bug bites again to make it original but, so far, I've always found something else to dick with instead...

Perhaps some day...

Perhaps not...

Forrest

azfal1
January 04, 2016, 11:24
Hello liberty Tree collectors has a lot of mauser parts.If you are going the sporter rout send me you Addy and I can give you a straight or bent bolt so you don't have to modify your s.

K. Funk
January 04, 2016, 20:33
Woo Hoo, got the 243 coded 1940 rifle for $290. The bolt parts, rear sight assembly, floor plate and all internals are matching. Just need a stock set which is inbound to make a nice non-import marked action matching rifle. Also picked up a CE 43 which is all matching except for the straight handle bolt and hand guard. Not sure what I want to do with that one. Got it for $240.00. I will most likely pick up a k98 bent bolt handle for it at the very least. The stock, which is a very nice "H" marked laminated, is matched to the rifle . But since the bolt is not, I may use it for another restoration project. I can slap a Russian capture stock on it and get as much or more than I paid for it. Just to top it off, I got a nice Spandau GEW 98 dated 1914 for $240. It is mostly matching with a very nice shiny bore. It has the Lange roller coaster rear sight. If she shoots, she's staying in the stable. I not even going to mention the three pre-64 Winnies.

krf

richbug
January 12, 2016, 18:53
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c138/richbug/IMG_20160112_1812021_zpswg7gjvdd.jpg (http://s26.photobucket.com/user/richbug/media/IMG_20160112_1812021_zpswg7gjvdd.jpg.html)

I welded on a bolt handle, welded shut existing holes and drilled the rear bridge(holes spaced wrong), installed a set of Redfield/Leupold bases and rings, and a 3-9 Nikon I had collecting dust.

Nothing special, but it seems usable now. Will shoot when this weather breaks.