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mountainman
September 09, 2015, 16:33
2 questions. For .308 what is the depth of cut on that slot? As long as the front of the extractor is flush with the rest of the bolt, I have cut the slot long enough?

Thanks for all the help. the drawings provided by the pros seem to be made in order to confuse us. I mean like, draw the bolt oriented correctly for machining and make your dimension off of that. But don't make em so that trig is involved?

JR in the NW
September 11, 2015, 21:59
Which sako extractor kit are you using?

Right Side Up
September 11, 2015, 22:43
I did one a long time ago on a 700 and I think I got the kit from Brownells. It's hard for me to put this into words, but you want to place the hook of the extractor pretty far forward so that it always goes over the rim of the case completely, but you are right that the front of it should not protrude past the end of the bolt and touch the back of the barrel. I can look at the one I did tomorrow. It's at work, and has worked perfect for years.

But I have to say......I probably will never do another one. The stock Remington extractor has never failed me on any other gun.

yovinny
September 12, 2015, 09:07
But I have to say......I probably will never do another one. The stock Remington extractor has never failed me on any other gun.

What he said.

People have been hurt and lots of accuracy smiths refuse to do sako extractor conversions on 700's anymore. Actually its been that way for years, like at least a decade....I'd look into it some before cutting one.
I actually replaced bolts in the 2 I had and went back to remmy extractors.

The sako conversion effectively eliminates the '3 rings of steel' design, or the designed in safety for case head seperations that the 700 has.
Instead of keeping everything contained and forcing it to use the built in venting, it gives a clear path to vent all the gas to the right lugway and right back to the shooter.

Just my .02
Cheers, YV

Right Side Up
September 12, 2015, 20:09
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q652/greggood1/20150912_200024_zpso3mquhrx.jpg

The recess for the extractor is .620" long and .120" deep. That's the best I could measure with a good fresh set of dial calipers.

mountainman
September 13, 2015, 09:24
What he said.

People have been hurt and lots of accuracy smiths refuse to do sako extractor conversions on 700's anymore. Actually its been that way for years, like at least a decade....I'd look into it some before cutting one.
I actually replaced bolts in the 2 I had and went back to remmy extractors.

The sako conversion effectively eliminates the '3 rings of steel' design, or the designed in safety for case head seperations that the 700 has.
Instead of keeping everything contained and forcing it to use the built in venting, it gives a clear path to vent all the gas to the right lugway and right back to the shooter.

Just my .02
Cheers, YV

you never given a light "tap tap" to the bolt handle to release a stuck case and found the think metal at the front of the bolt busted?

mountainman
September 13, 2015, 09:34
http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q652/greggood1/20150912_200024_zpso3mquhrx.jpg

The recess for the extractor is .620" long and .120" deep. That's the best I could measure with a good fresh set of dial calipers.

That is highly appreciated. Thanks

yovinny
September 13, 2015, 10:34
you never given a light "tap tap" to the bolt handle to release a stuck case and found the think metal at the front of the bolt busted?

Not sure I understand what your trying to say there ?

But I dont ever have cases stick in a 700 unless I screwed something up and while I've seen pics of some truly messed up, expanded and ruptured 700 bolts, I havent ever had a busted bolt or extractor yet...And I know I've over pressured a few, where the flattened primers just fall out when you finally beat the expanded case out of the bolt...

Rudolf
September 13, 2015, 11:12
there are tons of reports and videos of sako extractors failing on 700s.


do it but do it at your own risk on something that rarely happens.

gunplumber
September 13, 2015, 13:39
I've had guns in with failed SAKO and Remy type extractors. Even had one Remy where the extractor was loose in the box - a NIB rifle. I don't think the issue is significant enough to change from one style to the other.

mountainman
September 13, 2015, 14:01
Well, this bolt isn't NIB. It had only about 200 shots fired through it and then one reload was stuck in there. Buddy tap tapped it with a screw driver handle ( should have used push rod through the barrel) and a think washer like pc of metal came off the bolt face. Bolt became junk and I told him I could have saved it. Now just imagine, if instead, the extractor is the weakest link in place of the bolt?

mountainman
October 21, 2015, 17:32
Right side up, what size hole did you make for the pivot and what size hole for the plunger? Plunger hole depth?

Right Side Up
October 21, 2015, 17:39
I'll do the best I can to measure them.

tac-40
October 24, 2015, 22:18
Here are the instructions for installing the Brownells Sako conversion kit. I believe it is a Tubbs design so your measurements may need adjusting to fit your extractor.

http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/Sako-Extractor-Kit/detail.htm?lid=10479

mountainman
October 25, 2015, 16:55
Just found a.pdf from the David Tubb website and he does a far better job explaining things than Brownells and the other dimensions on his drawings coincide better with what Right side up gave, but I would sure like to hear from right side up so I can verify what I am thinking of doing. It seems the pivot hole is .191 ( #11 drill ) and .525 from bolt face to center. I will have to do some math to figure what the X axis location of tensioner plunger hole is. I will also drill to .425 instead of .450 and give everything a test run and if I need to drill deeper I will go .010" at a time.

Right Side Up
October 25, 2015, 17:59
All that stuff is at the shop and I had a crazy day Friday and forgot the measure it for you. I will definitely do it tomorrow.

mountainman
October 28, 2015, 15:57
Too late bro, it was a TUBB 2000 SAKO extractor which meant I had to take off another .025" depth on that slot and should have shortened that slot by .120", so .5" instead of .620". I'll make it work one way or another. I started out with an already useless bolt.

JR in the NW
October 28, 2015, 21:31
So just to be clear you already started cutting on the bolt?

mountainman
October 30, 2015, 16:00
So just to be clear you already started cutting on the bolt?

Nothing gonna happen if I just stare at it for a couple of months.

JR in the NW
October 31, 2015, 23:52
I do these all the time just wondering if you already started on it or not.

mountainman
November 01, 2015, 08:22
Basically, the slot is too long and I had to deepen it so the claw engages the slot on the casing, and I had to place the pivot in the right location. Only thing that might go wrong is the plunger and spring might not be getting any guidance, but to alleviate that I will fill in the end of the slot with some solder and then drill for the plunger and spring.